Cast and suppressors.

[mto7464]

I have a 300 BO that I have been casting the 230 lee and powder coating it to bring it up to proper size. Still not real happy with it but its the only boolit I can powder coat and get a good OAL that will function in the ar platform. THe problem is with the suppressor I am getting lead in the suppressor, none at all in the bore. I can take my can apart, (form 1 titanium can) and clean it but lead is stubborn. Has anyone fired cast using a can, subsonics, and not having any leading issues? What mold are you using, powder coating, lube, hitek, or not, etc etc.

[Electric88]

Interesting. Everything I've read indicates that powdercoating is supposed to help prevent leading in the suppressor. Though, perhaps the people doing it are powdercoating the base as well, whereas maybe you are not? It's also odd you only get leading in the suppressor and not the bore. I wish I could help you, but I haven't taken the plunge as of yet. Soon though I will be.

[JeffG]

Though not using a suppressor yet, I am also curious about this as I intend to use one on AR15 that I use with cast.

[Digital Dan]

Been shooting plain base lead for some time thru a can with no leading issues. Friend has been doing the same with .22/.30/.44 cal lead w/o issue.

Are you talking particles or smears? If the latter I'd suggest either the can is misaligned or the bullet is not stable.

[popper]

You can get barrel leading with PC or hitek. My guess,minor leading getting blown into the can(re-direction, it's real purpose). You didn't state alloy, I assume pistol gas. Check the BCG & tube for leading. Is it all Pb or some PC residue? When I had a F.H. on mine I thought I was getting Pb deposits, there was some but mostly (burnt) PC deposit. If that's the BT Lee, I haven't heard any good reports about it. IMHO, the BT & time-in-barrel leads to higher deposits.
powder coating it to bring it up to proper size Could also be the problem.

[Electric88]

You can get barrel leading with PC or hitek. My guess,minor leading getting blown into the can(re-direction, it's real purpose). You didn't state alloy, I assume pistol gas. Check the BCG & tube for leading. Is it all Pb or some PC residue? When I had a F.H. on mine I thought I was getting Pb deposits, there was some but mostly (burnt) PC deposit. If that's the BT Lee, I haven't heard any good reports about it. IMHO, the BT & time-in-barrel leads to higher deposits.
powder coating it to bring it up to proper size Could also be the problem.

Instead it should be brought to size, then powdercoated correct?

[runfiverun]

P/C still needs to follow the basic fitment rules of naked cast.

[mto7464]

I do think it is the bullet itself. If lee had mad the body of the bullet larger and done away with the boat tail, it would be a good design. Those that have one know what I am talking about.

So I would still like to hear from those that have shot the 300 BO suppressed in an AR with cast and what boolits they use with success, power coating or not powder coated.

As far as fit, if you get a bullet to drop large enough to fit without P/C it does not work well in the ar. Already tried it with some other molds that were made for the AR in 300 BO and after powder coating had to seat them too deep to function and sizing was a *****. The boolit needs to drop undersized for PC to work in this situation.

[flyingrhino]

I'm shooting 220 grn subsonic cast and Hi-Tek coated through my can with no leading. Shot some 155 gc PC'd supersonic with no leading.

[Mr Humble]

If there is residue in the can, step one is to figure out what it is. The ID of the can should be larger than the bore. PC coated boolits should be, after coating, sized to the same OD that works with conventional lead boolits. I note far LESS deposits with PC boolits than conventional. IF the boolit is hitting the can, accuracy should suck.

Not really enough info to help figure it out. Measure bore, boolits, can .... photos, shoot into water trap to see the boolits etc..

[mto7464]

What mold is the 220 grain?.

To answer the other question, it is not striking the baffles, and yes there is lead stuck to the baffles. Design of the can is good to go. Supers are fine just the certain PC coated bullet is giving me problems.

What I want to know from this thread is what other boolit molds are working. This Lee mold is okay, well really it sucks, but what I want and looking for other successful molds using a can and what ever lube, coating. PC would be my preferred coating.

[rda72927]

My Blackout has only shot cast, the 230 Lee for sub's.An experiment that worked out great, Lyman 311041 at around 1750. My can doesn't come apart. The Lyman 173gn FP works wicked on prairie dogs and jack rabbits out to 100 yards, using a peep sight.

[Mr Humble]

"To answer the other question, it is not striking the baffles, and yes there is lead stuck to the baffles."

IME lead boolits do not "shed" metal after leaving the bore and gums up cans.

"Supers are fine just the certain PC coated bullet is giving me problems." Supersonic (?) bullets ? What bullets ?

If you have not miked the boolt after coating and sizing, then you have to do that 1st.

Lee molds are "okay" but certainly not as precise as NEI or NOE.

Have you tried some high quality ready made cast boolits ? Like this one :

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2046333651/hunters-supply-hard-cast-bullets-30-caliber-311-diameter-193-grain-lead-flat-nose-gas-check

Specially made for 300 BO ?

IMO time to try other boolits.

[mto7464]

That is why I am asking. I want to try another boolit. I don't know if maybe with the boatail I am getting some gas cutting?

[KenH]

I have been shooting a 300BO with suppressor using PC lead bullets with a Form 1 suppressor. I've not seen any issues with leading, either in barrel or suppressor. I've only shot a couple hundred rounds total thru suppressor of various cast bullets from 120 grain, 168 grain, and the 230 grain Lee. I've only shot a few of the Lee .309-230-5R. The BT design doesn't seem to work all that well unless it has a GC installed. Since GC is not required for subs I made a reamer to remove the BT and the lube grooves to make the mold drop about .310" which seems to be better. I powder coat, then size down to .310" again. This leaves the nose of bullet as original allowing it to seat just fine with a 2.26" OAL.

Later

[scotner]

I started a thread on the Accurate 31-240A mold that I ordered after trying the Lee mold:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?322864-First-bullets-from-my-new-Accurate-mold

The thread kind of got sidetracked to how I wired my shop but gets back to some results on the second page of the thread. I run a 10.5" barrel with pistol gas and carbine buffer. Dead Air Sandman Ti can. I don't know if my COAL is listed in that post but you can see in a picture on the second page that it is long. I can check my loading log or measure one if you want. I have to release the bolt slowly to chamber the first round but it feeds fine and locks the bolt open after the last shot. No sign of leading in the can, barrel or gas system.

[scotner]

That is why I am asking. I want to try another boolit. I don't know if maybe with the boatail I am getting some gas cutting?

A note on the Accurate mold: The drawing on their website shows a very slight bevel on the bullet base. I asked about this and I was told that I could specify a flat base, which I did. The bevel was for easier loading if used by a commercial operation. I load on a Dillon 550B and use a 30 carbine powder funnel to get a slight flare to start the bullet. The bullets are sized to .3095 after coating.

[flyingrhino]

What mold is the 220 grain?.

To answer the other question, it is not striking the baffles, and yes there is lead stuck to the baffles. Design of the can is good to go. Supers are fine just the certain PC coated bullet is giving me problems.

What I want to know from this thread is what other boolit molds are working. This Lee mold is okay, well really it sucks, but what I want and looking for other successful molds using a can and what ever lube, coating. PC would be my preferred coating.

My 220's are from Leatherhead. I like the design, feeds well, no fouling. I'd like to find a mold like it. Their mold is custom made for them.

[Electric88]

A lot of people seem to like the NOE 311-247 mold and have great success with it. There is a group buy over on the NOE forums for a hollowpoint version going right now, if it was any interest to you.

But it seems like the majority of people I have talked to seem to favor the NOE mold, especially over the Lee 309-230. I haven't cast with it yet, so unfortunately I can't give you firsthand experience

[Tackleberry41]

I was given some of the Lee 230 someone had cast, worst bullet ever. I have had zero issues shooting the NOE 247gr. I have fired them subsonic and supersonic out of my mosin, subsonic in a 30-30 with 1-8 barrel. And super sonic at 2500fps out of a 300 win mag.

If OP is getting lead, and the Lee bullet sucks, time for a different mold.

[Mr Humble]

My experience with Lee molds is that in the larger diameters they are okay. Once you get down to 30 caliber the "cheapness" starts to show up.

[reddog81]

I'm still waiting on my first suppressor so I'm not sure how much help I can be, but I'm not sure how lead is shedding from the bullet after leaving the bore. Where in the can is the lead deposit? Is it right outside the muzzle or even throughout? If lead is flying off in the suppressor I'd gues that lead is flying off all the way to the target. How's the accuracy?

I'm not sure how a different bullet design would help. I'd guess a powder coat issue or alloy issue is the cause if the bullet is truely throwing off lead deposits.

[popper]

IMHO, the BT design just causes problems with no gain, the Lee BT is long. Pistol gas, slow fps & BT means you have a great setup for gas cutting on the base. You could use a body sizer to size the nose smaller, then drive band size - kinda a PITA. Hitek coating thickness is much less, might work - it's also a harder coating. I size, coat then size again but I'm pushing PB supers pretty hard. I designed my 145gr. boolit with a slightly smaller nose for PC, the drive band still goes 1/10" into the throat but it is sized. The nose never hits the grooves. I did a RD mod. 170gr PB that also shoots well in the BO, PCd. Nothing against NOE but I can design my own, get 3-5 day delivery and $$ is about the same from Accurate. Just cast a pot full of 145gr in a 2x Al. this morning, ~2hrs start to finish. Haven't looked at them with a loope yet but appears to be no rejects.

[Greg S]

There is a concoction the guys with sealed 22 lr suppressor are making (hydrogen peroxide and other over the counter items) and dunking their suppressors in the liquid and bubbles and removes the residue without harm to the suppressor itself. Look for maintenance information on sealed 22 suppressors. Since yours is cleanable it sould be alot easier to clean than a seal unit.

[JimB..]

There is a concoction the guys with sealed 22 lr suppressor are making (hydrogen peroxide and other over the counter items) and dunking their suppressors in the liquid and bubbles and removes the residue without harm to the suppressor itself. Look for maintenance information on sealed 22 suppressors. Since yours is cleanable it sould be alot easier to clean than a seal unit.

"Dip" is 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. Lead dissolves to form lead acetate. Lead acetate is readily absorbed through the skin. I have an old skillet that I use to boil mine away after use, the solids reform as the liquid boils and eventually it will be thrown in the recycling.

There is a theory that adding table salt to the lead acetate solution will cause the lead to precipitate, and it does to some extent, but is not nearly effective enough that you'd want to either come in contact with the liquid or dispose of it down the drain.

"Dip" eats aluminum. It is not effective on carbon, so cleaning is a bit of a multi-step process.

Last thing, how long is it between loading the rounds and firing the rounds. The bullet coatings deteriorate when exposed to certain powders and I've always wondered if the deterioration would result in suppressor leading. Maybe load and shoot some on the same day and see if you still get leading.

[wonderwolf]

One reason i'm considering a Liberty Mystic X....need to clean it? Sandblast it :)

[mcdaniel.mac]

"Dip" is 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. Lead dissolves to form lead acetate. Lead acetate is readily absorbed through the skin. I have an old skillet that I use to boil mine away after use, the solids reform as the liquid boils and eventually it will be thrown in the recycling.

There is a theory that adding table salt to the lead acetate solution will cause the lead to precipitate, and it does to some extent, but is not nearly effective enough that you'd want to either come in contact with the liquid or dispose of it down the drain.

"Dip" eats aluminum. It is not effective on carbon, so cleaning is a bit of a multi-step process.

Last thing, how long is it between loading the rounds and firing the rounds. The bullet coatings deteriorate when exposed to certain powders and I've always wondered if the deterioration would result in suppressor leading. Maybe load and shoot some on the same day and see if you still get leading.
Forget the table salt. Put the lead acetate solution in a glass container (Pyrex would work, but it needs to be non-reactive) and in a well-ventilated space slowly add diluted sulphuric acid. The precipitate lead (II) sulfate is nigh on unreactive. Keep adding the acid until there is no more precipitate, then pour off the liquid and dispose of it safely.

Wines used to be sweetened with lead acetate, and when it was discovered as a poison the use of sulphuric acid as a test was devised.

[Electric88]

"Dip" is 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. Lead dissolves to form lead acetate. Lead acetate is readily absorbed through the skin. I have an old skillet that I use to boil mine away after use, the solids reform as the liquid boils and eventually it will be thrown in the recycling.

There is a theory that adding table salt to the lead acetate solution will cause the lead to precipitate, and it does to some extent, but is not nearly effective enough that you'd want to either come in contact with the liquid or dispose of it down the drain.

"Dip" eats aluminum. It is not effective on carbon, so cleaning is a bit of a multi-step process.

Last thing, how long is it between loading the rounds and firing the rounds. The bullet coatings deteriorate when exposed to certain powders and I've always wondered if the deterioration would result in suppressor leading. Maybe load and shoot some on the same day and see if you still get leading.

I've heard rumors that Titegroup is one of those powders that can eat away at powdercoating, but I've never seen any proof of that. I've not heard of other powders that do that, but I haven't looked to hard either.

[JimB..]

Forget the table salt. Put the lead acetate solution in a glass container (Pyrex would work, but it needs to be non-reactive) and in a well-ventilated space slowly add diluted sulphuric acid. The precipitate lead (II) sulfate is nigh on unreactive. Keep adding the acid until there is no more precipitate, then pour off the liquid and dispose of it safely.

Wines used to be sweetened with lead acetate, and when it was discovered as a poison the use of sulphuric acid as a test was devised.

Good chemistry, but I am not certain that the sulphuric acid will precipitate antimony or metal salts from the primer. Boiling seems easy and effective, but I do it outside and don't huff the vapors.

[JimB..]

I've heard rumors that Titegroup is one of those powders that can eat away at powdercoating, but I've never seen any proof of that. I've not heard of other powders that do that, but I haven't looked to hard either.

Titegroup does, I've seen it and there are threads here. I believe that lil gun does also but have no direct experience. In any event I have never had a problem as a result, but then I shoot what I load within a week or two. Folks that store ammo for longer periods haven't told me of any velocity or accuracy issues, but I haven't talked to anyone about lead deposits in a suppressor.

[Electric88]

Titegroup does, I've seen it and there are threads here. I believe that lil gun does also but have no direct experience. In any event I have never had a problem as a result, but then I shoot what I load within a week or two. Folks that store ammo for longer periods haven't told me of any velocity or accuracy issues, but I haven't talked to anyone about lead deposits in a suppressor.

I guess I'll have to test it out by letting the rounds sit for a couple weeks and seeing if it leads the barrel, before moving to suppressor use.

[maliveline]

Ok I’m going to take a crack at this. I have been shooting cast through my .556 recently and I just got done cleaning my can and it was not pretty. Lead acetate is really something no one wants in their life so how can we shoot cast bullets through our cans? When you shoot a cast bullet out of a gun the base of the bullet heats up so greatly that there is some formation of molten lead at the base of the bullet while it is traveling through the bore of the weapon. Once the bullet exits the muzzle the molten lead at the bottom of the bullet splashes out everywhere inside of the blast baffle and possibly even into the baffles. Does powder coating prevent this? Absolutely not. Does it help? It does help a little but you are still going to get excess lead build up in your can overtime that you would not get with jacketed ammunition. A quick fix for this would be to use a gas check. I’m kind of kicking around the idea of sizing bullets/seating gas check in my lee sizing die and then powder coating everything. So this basically explains why your bore is still clean but your can is dirty because the lead doesn’t really become an issue until it is splashing out of the end of your muzzle and building up inside your can.

[xdmalder]

Ok I’m going to take a crack at this. I have been shooting cast through my .556 recently and I just got done cleaning my can and it was not pretty. Lead acetate is really something no one wants in their life so how can we shoot cast bullets through our cans? When you shoot a cast bullet out of a gun the base of the bullet heats up so greatly that there is some formation of molten lead at the base of the bullet while it is traveling through the bore of the weapon. Once the bullet exits the muzzle the molten lead at the bottom of the bullet splashes out everywhere inside of the blast baffle and possibly even into the baffles. Does powder coating prevent this? Absolutely not. Does it help? It does help a little but you are still going to get excess lead build up in your can overtime that you would not get with jacketed ammunition. A quick fix for this would be to use a gas check. I’m kind of kicking around the idea of sizing bullets/seating gas check in my lee sizing die and then powder coating everything. So this basically explains why your bore is still clean but your can is dirty because the lead doesn’t really become an issue until it is splashing out of the end of your muzzle and building up inside your can.

This is 100% all wrong. When using a filler like dracon why is not burned? When shooting a sabot why is it not melted?

[JimB..]

Ok I’m going to take a crack at this. I have been shooting cast through my .556 recently and I just got done cleaning my can and it was not pretty. Lead acetate is really something no one wants in their life so how can we shoot cast bullets through our cans? When you shoot a cast bullet out of a gun the base of the bullet heats up so greatly that there is some formation of molten lead at the base of the bullet while it is traveling through the bore of the weapon. Once the bullet exits the muzzle the molten lead at the bottom of the bullet splashes out everywhere inside of the blast baffle and possibly even into the baffles. Does powder coating prevent this? Absolutely not. Does it help? It does help a little but you are still going to get excess lead build up in your can overtime that you would not get with jacketed ammunition. A quick fix for this would be to use a gas check. I’m kind of kicking around the idea of sizing bullets/seating gas check in my lee sizing die and then powder coating everything. So this basically explains why your bore is still clean but your can is dirty because the lead doesn’t really become an issue until it is splashing out of the end of your muzzle and building up inside your can.

If you glue a piece of paper to the base of a bullet, fire that bullet, and recover the fired bullet you will find that the paper is unburned. This has been proven a number of times.

Looking at recovered bullets it doesn’t generally look like the sides have been melted.

My guess is that imprinting the rifling causes very small bits of lead to separate from the bullet, that splatter ends up in the gases which cool inside the suppressor.

Lead acetate, I have a dedicated pit that I dump spent dip into. That pot is heated and the contents boiled away. In this process the lead, tin, arsenic, and other metals fall out of solution and stick to the pot. The pot will eventually go to a landfill. I do this outdoors.

[maliveline]

So you think if I was to shoot cast bullets through a suppressor with a gas check on the bottom of the bullet I would still get “splatter” inside of my can?

[Boolit_Head]

Gas checks through a can are generally not a good idea. On the off chance it seperates it could very likely strike a baffle.

[JimB..]

So you think if I was to shoot cast bullets through a suppressor with a gas check on the bottom of the bullet I would still get “splatter” inside of my can?

Yes, pretty sure you will.

I have switched mostly to powder coating, I still get some buildup, but nothing like the .22 LR cans. I find powder coated bullets to be more accurate than plated bullets like those from Berry. Others prefer plated.

[maliveline]

If you powdered coated your bullets after you seated the gas check I highly doubt it would pop off. For that matter you could put a drop of jb weld or super glue inside of the gas check cup if you were that worried about it. I imagine you would still get leading in the can even with a gas check though if what you say about the paper disc on the bottom of the bullet is true though.

I was actually looking at plating my bullets instead of powder coating for another option to be able to shoot my own castbullets through a suppressor without having the leading issues. However, I have tried plating in the past and found it to be very labor Intensive and much less efficient than powdercoating. I did see a pretty amazing video of a guy on YouTube the other day with a home plating setup though.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oRFd64unCck

[JimB..]

Which brings us to swaging to get a bullet with no exposed lead at the base or the sides that engage the rifling. Should have all the gear to try 38cal bullets in the next couple weeks.

[FISH4BUGS]

I have a 300 BO that I have been casting the 230 lee and powder coating it to bring it up to proper size. Still not real happy with it but its the only boolit I can powder coat and get a good OAL that will function in the ar platform. THe problem is with the suppressor I am getting lead in the suppressor, none at all in the bore. I can take my can apart, (form 1 titanium can) and clean it but lead is stubborn. Has anyone fired cast using a can, subsonics, and not having any leading issues? What mold are you using, powder coating, lube, hitek, or not, etc etc.

I have a Bowers CAC9 can that I use on my S&W 76, MAC 9mm and MAC 380 and Uzi Sub machine guns. The maker of the can, Tom Bowers ( the former owner of subguns.com), told me when I bought it to go ahead and shoot lead bullets. The can got so leaded up he finally changed his mind and now says NO LEAD!
The moulds are H&G #331 for 9mm and H&G S55 for 380
My bullets are cast from 5lbs ww to 1 lb linotype, I use WW231 powder and Magma Hard Lube sized to .356. Since I stopped shooting lead through the can, I haven't had a leading problem.....funny how that works :) I have switched to Berry's Plated Bullets for all subsonic shooting.
One thing you can do is coat the baffles and the inside of the can with Frog Lube. It helps keep crud from building up so bad. Just clean it after every 200 rounds or so.
My 22 can is good for about 200 rounds only. But 22 is inherently dirty anyway. Nothing you can do about that.
Try the Frog Lube thing. It MIGHT be of some help for you.

[maliveline]

What if I added copper powder to my powder coat?

[JimB..]

What if I added copper powder to my powder coat?

I think probably a waste of time and money.

[maliveline]

Ya I was thinking the same thing later in the day after I posted this I guess I’m going to try to dick around with plating

[Echo]

I have a 300 BO that I have been casting the 230 lee and powder coating it to bring it up to proper size. Still not real happy with it but its the only boolit I can powder coat and get a good OAL that will function in the ar platform. THe problem is with the suppressor I am getting lead in the suppressor, none at all in the bore. I can take my can apart, (form 1 titanium can) and clean it but lead is stubborn. Has anyone fired cast using a can, subsonics, and not having any leading issues? What mold are you using, powder coating, lube, hitek, or not, etc etc.

I had the same problem 'way back when the USAF issued me a High Standard 22 w/muzzle brake. What happens is that the rifling smears itty bitty tails on the bullets, and the tails get blown off as the bullet exits the bbl, to be deposited in the brake. Same situation in your case, I bet...

[Lloyd Smale]

first thing to do is to shoot some of your bullets into water and see if the coating is holding up. I recovered a bunch of pc bullets out of the snow bank this spring. Some done with smokes black and some with his brown. Some bullet designs looked like they were gas cut with bare lead showing. Much more prevalent with the brown then the black. None leaded the barrel but id about bet theyd lead up a can eventually. He has a new brown pc color that is suppose to be the toughest color he has. I bought some and will try it but it will be a while (thank God) before theres snow to shoot into again. Your problem might be cured with just a switch to a different powder.

[dbarry1]

So best to use JB or plated with a can? Inquiring minds need to know.

[Lloyd Smale]

I guess if you make more money then I do.
So best to use JB or plated with a can? Inquiring minds need to know.

[Boolit_Head]

So best to use JB or plated with a can? Inquiring minds need to know.

Nope powder coated cast with no issues.

[dbarry1]

Interesting thread as I'm waiting on a couple form 4's...

[NoZombies]

I've put a lot of lead through cans. I switched to PC because it's so much cleaner than running lubed lead. Since switching my cleaning interval went from every 200-300 rounds to every few thousand. That's mostly pistol calibers through sub-guns, but includes a fair bit of subsonic and supersonic rifle as well.

[FISH4BUGS]

So best to use JB or plated with a can? Inquiring minds need to know.

Personally, I use plated bullets ONLY through the cans. 147 gr 9mm and 95 gr 380's, and 230gr 45's. Never had a problem since I started doing that.

[sutherpride59]

Apparently I’m not the only one with this question. I’m planning on just use it lubed boolits, it’s just too easy to live them with a star, I figure with a dab of super glue the gas checks aren’t going anywhere. Subscribed to this thread and when I get my can in a few months hopefully I can add more to the convo.

[Elkins45]

The can on my 300 blackout has seen at least 5K rounds, all of them cast and lubed. I specifically bought a serviceable can for this very reason, and I have cleaned a good bit of lead out of it. I just recently started using the Hi-Tek coating and am looking forward to seeing if it makes a difference in keeping my can clean.

FWIW most of my bullets have been checked and I’ve never found one inside the can.

[maliveline]

I’ve done some reading over at silencertalk. It seems that guys over there are having the same issues with hi-tek coating in a can as with powdercoating. Plated bullets work but plating your own bullets sucks in my opinion. I’m tossing around the idea adding copper powder to my powder coating or possibly even HBN. If I ever get around to it I will post the results here. If anyone else has solved this problem I would like to know about it. Also I heard someone talking about JB kind of curious bout what this is.

[Boolit_Head]

I'm over there and not having any issues with powder coated and my can. Few over there cast their own, they are usually buying them. Maybe Dellet and Rebel are casting and a handful of others. I'm about to try some hytek in my can when I can get a chance to get my sizer opened up some.

[maliveline]

Oh I had powder coated bullets going through my can no problem but once I cleaned it a little and started inspecting the blast baffle I could see a decent amount of lead build up after less than 150 rounds. You know it’s just a little lead and it probably doesn’t matter but I’m real up tight and I don’t want that **** in my can. Not too mention if you let it build up in there long enough it could start to effect performance.

[maliveline]

221416

Well I was able to finally add some copper powder to my powder coat.
It turned out pretty blotchy and to be honest I had a pretty hard time getting the powder coat to stick to the bullet. I’m not sure if this will really even help but oh well it was only like 20 bucks for the copper powder

[NoZombies]

I'm not quite sure what you're hoping to accomplish by adding copper to the PC.

I've put a lot of PC'd bullets through cans, and while there is still some residue, I've never had an issue with heavy buildup.

[maliveline]

I don’t know man I was getting quite a bit of leading with plain powder coat in my suppressor. Most people I have read about trying this were having the same issues and most people are running plated bullets through their suppressors to keep things working correctly.

[Landshark9025]

I have an AR-9 with two uppers- one 16" and one 8.5". Both have the Yankee Hill flash hider (https://yhm.net/9mm-phantom-flash-hiders-for-our-wraith-xl-sound-supp-1310.html)for my Wraith can.


Even shooting without the suppressor, using Hi-tek coated bullets, the flash hider would get reside but the barrel was clean. I attributed this to the rifling cutting through the coating, then the gasses "blasting the particulates" onto the hider.


I switched to Smoke's PC and it went away. I've shot probably 500-1,000 rounds through it and it doesn't look excessively dirty.

[Moonie]

I use PC in my form 1 suppressor with a couple of 300 BO AR uppers (a 16" and a 10" SBR) and a 7.5" Encore pistol in 300 BO and I don't have much build up in it, but I do also use Smokes powder.