would you like those shiny or frosted?

[Oklahoma Rebel]

when casting boolits, using lyman #2, is it better to have the temp set so that they are shiny or frosted, I think I have been told frosted, but wanted to double check. also, was using a new lee mold, and had some problems with the gas check shank filling out. I added tin but didn't really need it, the rest of the boolits filled out great. if the sprue plate is too tight, can it prevent venting? or is this just the trials of a new aluminum mold? it wasn't too, too many, maybe one in 15-20. just wondering, thank you, Travis

[Beagle333]

I like a little frost myself, but it's up to you. If the gas check shank isn't filling out, before I started messing with the venting, it sound like the sprue plate is too cool. Are you pouring boolits as fast as you can, and not checking the boolits in between pours and maybe doing a little culling or adjusting as you go? Get that sprue plate closed as soon as you can and refill that mold, and pour a generous sprue puddle and get that plate nice and hot. If after a dozen pours it still isn't filling out on the gas check area only, then you can start looking at improving venting options, and perhaps re-check your temp and tin values.

[RogerDat]

Many shoot for a cast that is right at the edge of frosty, so they will cast a few fast enough and hot enough that they get frosty then slow down just a touch. So most won't be frosty but some will. Right on the edge and can slip over to frosty every once in awhile.

All the stuff everyone else said about going faster so the mold is hotter. Watch the lube groves and gas check shank edges, sharp edges are a good sign, rounded edges are cool mold indicator.

[runfiverun]

if you find frosty with a 5/5 alloy you done went waay too far.
just look for square corners and judge time by your sprue cut.

[ioon44]

With 6-2-92 alloy I like to be on the edge of frosting I seem to get the best fill out at this point.

[trapper9260]

I look at how it is fill and like stated the GC area or the PB fill is.most of my are frosted some.It depends on the mold and how hot it need to be.What ever works is what I go with.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

ok, I was casting fast, it was easy to notice as soon as I opened the sprue plate I would notice the edges of one not filled out, it is always the inside cavity, that made me think that the plate was a little too tight, I don't remember if it helped once the plate loosened up, I will have to check. is there a way to scribe vents in the bottom of it? ps, this is lyman#2 but it has a little CU added, that's why I was running it hotter, but I will cool it down a little next time. it might be .75% copper

[country gent]

A sharp Scribe and square can be used to "vent the sprue plate or tops of mould blocks lightly. I normally just lightly stone a small chamfer on the inside edges of the blocks To form a vent line when closed. It dosnt take much .005-.008 X 45* on each edge makes for a good vent line. I also Like to over pour the blocks letting the excess run off this keeps the base hot and molten longer allowing for better venting and fill out this also keeps the sprue plate hotter. I ladle cast and pour a full ladle letting excess run back into the pot. Another thing is heavily smoking the blocks can block off vent lines causing issues. I prefer Shiny on my rifle bullets and on pistol I'm not so fussy.

[Beagle333]

Have you tried reversing the pour order? Some of mine like to be poured from one end or the other first, and that does affect fillout on that end. Don't know why, but it happens.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

I did, don't remember if it made a difference, now with chamfering the edges wouldn't that leave lines of lead sticking out and possibly connecting the boolits? I see why it will work though but that would get annoying

[websterz]

I powder coat all my pistol bullets and I like to cast them frosty. It really gives the powder coat something extra to hold on to!