M48 Mauser

[303carbine]

I managed to find one that was still in the brown wrapper, what a load of cosmo in this old girl.
The bore was packed with it as well as every inch of the rifle, the front sight had a big gob of that nasty stuff and was totally covered.
I took a heat gun and sweated the cosmo out and wiped it up with a rag as it liquified.
To get it out of the bore, I dumped boiling water through it and it came out coffee colored water.....ick.:mrgreen:
I bought a can of carb cleaner and the rest of the rifle was done, the bolt was packed solid with 60ish year old cosmoline.
I cocked the rifle and tried to fire it, instead of the firing pin dropping and making a click sound, it released and slower than molasses in January.
A total disassembly of the bolt and a bath in carb cleaner with a little coaxing with an old tooth brush and I have a working Yugo M48 8mm Mauser.
The stock sucked up a couple coats of Boiled Linseed oil already and the teak stock looks 100% better than it did out of the wrapper.
All of the numbers match including the stock, now if the rain would stop long enough to get to the range.
PS, I have a couple of pics of the M48 during the unwrapping, if someone wishes to post them for me, email for pics at deerslayer@shaw.ca

[lefty o]

never heard of a teak stock on one.

[303carbine]

never heard of a teak stock on one.


The dealer said they are teak or elm, I'm inclined to believe the stock is elm.

[Peregrine]

From what I understand the M48's wearing "teak" stocks is a long standing misconception. I've commonly seen it blamed on Mitchell's Mausers incorrectly identifying them as such in their advertising and it spreading from there. There never actually were teak stocked M48's.

Walnut seems to pop up on earlier examples, more commonly the stocks are birch or elm. Mine's a rather nice elm stocked example, here's a picture for reference on what the elm looks like;

169525


303carbine, there's a guide on how to upload your images here (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?108333-*Image-Hosting*-Tutorial-and-FAQ). That or just go to Imgur (http://imgur.com/), hit new post, and navigate to the image you want to upload. Once you select it it will upload the image and give you a URL which you can either just copy and paste into your post or embed.

[lefty o]

elm, yes.

[curator]

Do not despair over having a stock made from Elm wood. No other wood to my knowledge so resists splitting. Ask your firewood supplier if he has any Elm wood. He will look at you like you are crazy. Many gas-powdered hydrolic log spliters have been defeated by a couple of Elm logs. On the other hand, Elm is a bit fibrous for stock making and has little or no "figure." What you do have is a very serviceable wood stock that will not warp or split for several generations. Elm wood does suck up Cosmoline and weep for ages. Calcined clay (unscented Kitty-litter) will absorb this if the stock is heated to about 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Enjoy!

[hc18flyer]

Congrats on a Great rifle, I love mine! Make sure the wood is solid at the recoil lug, mine wasn't ! When I shot a heavier load, the poorly anchored lug allowed the action to shift rearward, cracking the wrist. It was bought as a shooter, so a little epoxy and a couple of brass screws filed flush, and back to shooting! My stock is elm. I talked my two brothers and a nephew into 24/47 Yugo's, so we can have a little friendly cast boolets Competition! hc18flyer

[funnyjim014]

I don't know about you guys , but the smell of cosmo is one of the best going, brings me back to a few unwrapping of new toys

[Scharfschuetze]

Glad you found a nice and new Model 48. I also picked up a new one with all the accouterments back in 1999. It's been a great shooter ever since. I hope yours shoots as well as mine.

[Shiloh]

More than likely red elm. I have heard of teak, but the consensus is red elm.

Shiloh

[Tackleberry41]

Considering teak does not grow in Yugoslavia, its doubtful they imported teak, when they have plenty of elm trees. I got an early one that wasn't packed full of cosmoline. Mine was pretty much ready to shoot, tho was 2002. As tight as everything was, one would wonder if many of the M48s were ever actually used and fired.

[Shiloh]

Considering teak does not grow in Yugoslavia, its doubtful they imported teak, when they have plenty of elm trees. I got an early one that wasn't packed full of cosmoline. Mine was pretty much ready to shoot, tho was 2002. As tight as everything was, one would wonder if many of the M48s were ever actually used and fired.

Everyone I have seen, a dozen or more, have had mirror bores. Mine arrived in early spring 2003 and was infused with cosmoline. When I cocked it and dry fired, the firing pin would barely move. Warmed up, you could watch the firing pin slowly move.
Thank goodness there was a website called SurplusRifle.com. Showed how to take the bolt apart and how to clean encrusted cosmoline off of and out of it.

SHiloh

[Hardcast416taylor]

I found that 9" long veterniary Q-Tip cleaners for cleaning dog ears work good on doing the insides of a bolt body. I got several handfuls from my Dr. over several visits. Have also heard of them listed as G.I. surplus in catalogs.Robert

[Tackleberry41]

My M48 was ready to use when I picked it up. Maybe the later ones had less care given before being shipped to the states. Now an old Spanish mauser I picked up recently, it worked, but the bolt was jammed full of old grease. I wonder how much the rifle was used since nobody in the last 70yrs did anything to make it possible to load more than one round easily. I had to use a file on the follower and mag well to make it possible for the follower to not hang up trying to load more than one round.

[Shiloh]

The longer Cosmoline sits, the harder it gets. Turns waxy and hard from evaporating solvents. In rifles from Russian and Eastern European arsenals, it has permeated every part of the rifles.

SHiloh

[Multigunner]

I've heard that the Yugoslavian gun makers used Teak wood on special order for rifles sold to African governments due to the problems of white ants eating away the stocks of unattended rifles in a matter of hours.
I remember a White Hunter writing of going to pick up a rifle left propped up outside his tent overnight and the wrist of the stock disintegrating in his hands.

Teak wood is strong and stable but heavy. Its almost impervious to insects and rot.

[Mr Humble]

I bought 5 from Mitchell's about 5 years ago. All had teak stocks. Have a boat and know what teak looks/smells like.

[Multigunner]

There are several varieties of teak that vary greatly in color due to prevailing chemical contaminates in the soil of the regions they grow in. Some are blond or nearly white while others are quite dark. They generally have the same qualities.
A Persian Mauser Carbine I owned many years ago may have been manufactured in Yugoslavia. Its stock was very light blonde with small dark specks through out. A Yugoslav SKS I owned not long ago had a stock of identical wood. The Mitchell Mausers Tanker carbine in catalog illustrations had a stock of exactly the same type of wood. The Carbine and SKS stocks were far heavier than they looked.

[tomme boy]

They NEVER made teak stocks. They are walnut or Elm. That is it. Wood is very hard to identify by the looks alone. Over on the old ParillaxBill web site this was beat to death years ago when that was the #1 site for milsurps. One of the members was a student at a college our in California that did I think it was a type of DNA testing on it. It was a agricultural type research. All kinds of wood shaving were sent to him and were test as walnut and elm. Not one TEAK piece was identified.

[Geezer in NH]

It sucks that the cosmoline kept your rifle in like new condition. :kidding:

Join the group of Milsurp and hope all your purchases are the same.

The wood will be a European cheap hardwood. No government spent money for pretty, great wood. Only serviceable for the task at hand.

Enjoy the task of cleaning it up and the research into the actual weapon and time period. THAT is the pleasure IMHO.

[Mr Humble]

.....

[tomme boy]

As usual Mr Humble is belittling people. Weren't you just spanked and told to knock it off?

If you look closely you will see a M48 and a M24/47 in the first pic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/tommeboy/DSC00498.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/tommeboy/media/DSC00498.jpg.html)

But look here is a better pic of the M48. And two Yugo SKS's with "teak" wood stocks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/tommeboy/guns_002_edited.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/tommeboy/media/guns_002_edited.jpg.html)

But little does Mr Humble know that I build wood boats and help a friend who restores old ChrisCrafts. I have built five boats out of wood. Lots of steaming stips to bend around a frame and nailing the whole thing together. But who am I to know about working with REAL Teak on these older boats. I used my first scull boat for hunting duck for almost 20 years before I sold it off.

Before you belittle a person on this post and any other you might want to do a little more research of the person before you do.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

That's a nice looking collection Tomme, and some good photography. :D

[tomme boy]

Can't believe I didn't get my toes in the pic. But I think that is mandatory isn't?

[flint45]

On mine the stock was so soaked with cosmoline it took weeks of work to get it out

[runfiverun]

I think if your south of the equator you only have to have 1.5 toes in the picture and flip flops are optional.

north of the Equator you get a higher reign of freedom.
a shadow, the dog, 3 other things not for sale, are all allowed but not necessary.

[Texas by God]

I think if your south of the equator you only have to have 1.5 toes in the picture and flip flops are optional.

north of the Equator you get a higher reign of freedom.
a shadow, the dog, 3 other things not for sale, are all allowed but not necessary.
Or my favorite-the laundry!

[tomme boy]

Normally I have a cat in the back ground. They think they have to be in all pics.

I wish I bought more of these back when I had my c&r. Same as with all of the old guns. I can't believe what all of these guns go for now. And the ammo! My UPS guy hated me for about 3 years! All of the 8mm and 54r was about 3 cents shipped each from Century Arms.

I had a carbon monoxide detector that kept going off. I contacted the fire dept to come over to help find it. They came and I led them to the basement where all the ammo was and they freaked out. I had the wood crates ceiling high and 8 stacks. The next day I got a call from my old ladies uncle who is a Detective for the local Police. He tells me the Fire Dept reported me. We both laughed and that was the end of that!

Anyway, I have seen a bunch of pics on how they get all of the cosmo. They dunk the rifle into the liquid cosmo several times. Thats how everything is so clogged up. Also why the wood has soaked up so much of the oil.

Heat is your friend to get most of it out. Summer time is the best time. Wrap it in newspaper and put in a plastic black garbage bag. Then set it outside on your deck or in the back window of the car to soak up the heat. Keep repeating this till most of it is gone. Initial cleaning is boiling water. A complete take down to each individual part is needed to get them completely clean.

[Multigunner]

Ran across this on Wikipedia, a description of an Australian tree.

"White beech was previously classified in the Verbenaceae, but its genus and many others have been transferred into the mint family Lamiaceae.[4] White beech is the standard trade name for the timber, as well as a common name for the species,[4] due to the similarity of the wood to that of European beech.[5] Other common names include grey teak.[4]"

I'd noticed that a White African Teak was mentioned as a substitute for Indian teak.
Could be that European White Beech has been marketed as Teak.

Woods with similar qualities are often lumped in with true species in commercial sales. African and Indian Rosewood for example are not true Rosewood, true Rosewood only grows in the Americas.

[Texas by God]

I would love to sporterize a 48 using the original barrel. What a nice light rifle that would be. And power enough for anything I'll hunt.

[LAGS]

The Yugos either the M48 or the 24/47 make fine sporters.
I have several. And a half dozen still in military dress waiting to be built into custom rifles.
None are pristine , so I don't mind making them into something nicer and more useful.
I need to make a Switch barrel set up for one of them , so I can sell off a lot of the others.
I have several sporters in the 8mm and customs already in 25-06 and a couple .308's
Plus barrels to make a couple of 257 Bobs and more .308s
Those are perfect on the shorter Mid Length action

[Tackleberry41]

Ran across this on Wikipedia, a description of an Australian tree.

"White beech was previously classified in the Verbenaceae, but its genus and many others have been transferred into the mint family Lamiaceae.[4] White beech is the standard trade name for the timber, as well as a common name for the species,[4] due to the similarity of the wood to that of European beech.[5] Other common names include grey teak.[4]"

I'd noticed that a White African Teak was mentioned as a substitute for Indian teak.
Could be that European White Beech has been marketed as Teak.

Woods with similar qualities are often lumped in with true species in commercial sales. African and Indian Rosewood for example are not true Rosewood, true Rosewood only grows in the Americas.

Wood is often missold. Its rampant in the guitar industry, especially with anything from overseas. Brazillian Rosewood is what everybody wants for fretboards, but expensive due to restrictions on logging down there. So your not going to find it in low end stuff despite the advertising. They were pushing some wood from Australia for a while, cant remember the name. In Aus it was considered garbage wood, guitar companies are bad about laminating wood. Yea in a rifle its great adds to the strength. A guitar, screws up the tone. But easy to cover up with a thick paint job. Was common to sand a cheap one down and find big knots or 20 thin layers all glued together.

I know the stock on my M48 aint teak, its to soft.

[Shiloh]

They NEVER made teak stocks. They are walnut or Elm. That is it. Wood is very hard to identify by the looks alone. Over on the old ParillaxBill web site this was beat to death years ago when that was the #1 site for milsurps. One of the members was a student at a college our in California that did I think it was a type of DNA testing on it. It was a agricultural type research. All kinds of wood shaving were sent to him and were test as walnut and elm. Not one TEAK piece was identified.


It sucks that the cosmoline kept your rifle in like new condition. :kidding:

Join the group of Milsurp and hope all your purchases are the same.
The wood will be a European cheap hardwood. No government spent money for pretty, great wood. Only serviceable for the task at hand.
Enjoy the task of cleaning it up and the research into the actual weapon and time period. THAT is the pleasure IMHO.

Red elm. Plentiful, sufficient, and cheap.

Shiloh

[Shiloh]

They NEVER made teak stocks. They are walnut or Elm. That is it. Wood is very hard to identify by the looks alone. Over on the old ParillaxBill web site this was beat to death years ago when that was the #1 site for milsurps. One of the members was a student at a college our in California that did I think it was a type of DNA testing on it. It was a agricultural type research. All kinds of wood shaving were sent to him and were test as walnut and elm. Not one TEAK piece was identified.


On mine the stock was so soaked with cosmoline it took weeks of work to get it out

About a week and a half with stripper, chalk whiting mixed with MEK and careful work with a heat gun. Hand guard was the worst.
Around the action and grip, there was gun oil soaked in. That came out as well. Did mine over Thanksgiving weekend and the next week.

Shiloh

[Combat Diver]

I got a M48 BO back in the early 90s. Shoots great with surplus ball but that's getting low. I don't remember any Persian Mauser's being made by Yugoslavia. BRNO out of Czechoslovakia made them and later they built a plant in Iran to manufactuer them. Still have one of those BRNO preWWII actions in the safe from one of those full length rifles.


CD

[Multigunner]

"I don't remember any Persian Mauser's being made by Yugoslavia. BRNO out of Czechoslovakia made them and later they built a plant in Iran to manufactuer them. "

You are correct. Its been close to 50 years since I bought that rifle. In fact it was the first center fire rifle I ever bought from a gunshop. I paid the princely sum of $35 for it in as new condition. Within a few months I bought a Lyman nut cracker with dies for the 7.92X57 and the .38 Special. Been handloading off and on ever since.
Because the muzzle blast using milsurp ammo was pretty fierce I looked up light starter loads for the G 33/40 using IMR 4198 and 4227. Cut down the muzzle blast and recoil considerably.

Reminds me of a line from Spinal Tap. "we're big in Bulgaria, or Hungaria, one of the Garias anyway", "we own our own soccer team, aren't many Hungarios can say that now are there".

[Shiloh]

The surplus Turkish ammo kicked like a mule and had a muzzle blast like a naval gun. It is all but gone, and what I have seen in the last couple of years was a lot more expensive. Used to get a 70 round bandoleer for less than $5. I have some that I paid around $3 for.

Some was in good shape, other bandoleers had corroded cartridges, and the occasional ones that were spilling powder.
I use 4227 with the LEE 175 gr. RN.

SHiloh

[beemer]

Bought a 70 round bandoleer of the Turk 8mm several years ago. I fired one round out of my M48 and the bolt was hard to open, I thought it was maybe a fluke. One more round was fired over the Chrony, 2950 fps and another hard bolt opening. One round was broke down the weigh the bullet, it was 154 gr. I still have 67 rounds and yes it kicked like a mule and cut the grass in the back yard. More reasons to load my own.

Dave

[Shiloh]

Yes, it is hot. A friend took all of it apart and reduced around 10%. Tamed it nicely. There were a lot of split necks on the fired rounds.

SHiloh

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I've still got about 1 1/2 cases of the Turk ammo, some in the blue and some in the tan bandoleers. A friend and I pulled the bullets on about 1,000 rounds, dumped and salvaged the powder and bullets, but trashed the corrosively Berdan primed cases. Now that there's been so many posts about how to reuse the cases I regret scrapping them. The powder charges ranged all the way from the low 40 to high 50 gr., and we settled on 46 if I remember correctly. We reused the powder and bullets in new Remington brass and it made some very accurate ammo.

[tomme boy]

The Turk ammo is not hot. It is what the original 8mm was meant to be loaded as.

If you think the Turk has a fire ball, Try to find some 50's era Romanian BRASS cased ammo. It was twice as loud and the fire ball was twice as big. I mean it looked like the muzzle flash you see in the movies.

[Multigunner]

More likely than not any 7.92 Milsurp ammo you find that gives excessive muzzle blast and recoil when fired in a rifle could turn out to be the specialized Air craft and Anti-aircraft loads meant for the cowl guns and defensive guns of military aircraft.
I saw a warning on a particular Luftwaffe load that stated it was loaded to at least 60% higher pressure than the standard infantry ball cartridge.
Since many 7.92 MGs remained in service after WW2, and some are still found in third world armories, no doubt the hot aircraft loads were produced on contract for many years.

Degraded propellants , decades past their sell by date, are another possibility.

[Larry Gibson]

I've pressured test several different lots of the Turk milsurp ammo. While they are not "hot" in the sense of over pressure they are indeed, as Tomme mentions, loaded to German specifications. German Specifications are up there but not excessive for M98 actions. The problem is one of brittle brass from age and apparently no annealing. Many of the cases have lost their elasticity and do not expand and contract anymore as they should. This is why they split and give sticky extraction, particularly hard bolt lift.

I have pulled the bullets and reloaded the powder charge and bullets into W-W cases and they extracted fine. I have also found a lot of the case necks will split when the bullets are pulled. Scharfschuetze gave me 700+ of the cases he had pulled down several years back. Many had split necks and many more necks split when NS'd. I did end up with 500+ loaded with 28 gr 4895, a Dacron filler and a 190 cast bullet from a GB mould. That load ran right at 1800 fps out of my M48 and was a wonderful load. Never had a misfire and accuracy hovered around 1 1/2 moa. I was rummaging through some ammo looking for some other when I found the remaining 150+ rounds of it. They are scheduled to slay some SW commie rocks soon.......


Larry Gibson

[Shiloh]

What I have pulled showed square flakes. There were corners chipped off of some of the grains and some dust in the mix. A lot of it is still bright and looks like new old stock. Other batches was turned in to a fellow from the range for disposal. I Agree that the ammo was loaded for full power military loads in a strong action. Firing 70 round bandoleers several times with my son, one sure know it at the end of the day.

My son wore one of those PAST recoil pads to take the sting out of the recoil. At the time, my son son was almost 6' tall, but only went about 140 pounds. The military bulked him up. still slender but now there is muscle. Even so, that ammo, full power ammo is stout, and I go 213 lb.
Different lots came in various colored bandoleers. Some in sort of a field gray or bluish bandoleers, some khaki, still others in faded brownish green.
The clips are usable and in good shape.

SHiloh

[tomme boy]

They also had 2 types of clips. The solid brass ones and then the nickle plated steel ones. The brass ones don't last very long.

[Scharfschuetze]

As mentioned by Larry above, I broke down around a thousand of the rounds for the bullets, which shoot pretty well with modern components. As a result, I have several pounds of the Turk square flake powder (probably German manufacture) that I use from time to time. It's reliable stuff, but has a slightly higher Sd and extreme spread than US manufactured powder. It shows no signs of deterioration.

[Texas by God]

They also had 2 types of clips. The solid brass ones and then the nickle plated steel ones. The brass ones don't last very long.

I use the clips to carry extra rounds for whatever 8mm head size cartridge I happen to be hunting with. I had a rebarreled Arisaka 38 in 8x57 with a 16-1/2" barrel and those Turk rounds were Hell fire& brimstone! Best, Thomas.

[Shiloh]

As mentioned by Larry above, I broke down around a thousand of the rounds for the bullets, which shoot pretty well with modern components. As a result, I have several pounds of the Turk square flake powder (probably German manufacture) that I use from time to time. It's reliable stuff, but has a slightly higher Sd and extreme spread than US manufactured powder. It shows no signs of deterioration.

Same here.
No sign's of deterioration from the good condition ammo. The ammo from the corroded bandoleers show some lighter colors on it. Burns okay though.
Lord knows how this stuff was stored and how many times it had been moved. I have ammo that looks very good for it's age. I have also seen bandoleers that looked like it they had been store wet for a long time. Rotted cloth with corroded ammo.

SHiloh

[tomme boy]

The heavy ball Turk I had, I never had any problems with it. The light ball and mainly 1947 had cracked necks before you fired them. I don't remember the primer color difference any more but one had black and the other was green. The heavy was 196gr and the light was 154 gr

Then you had the Romanian steel cased. It had a 154gr bullet with a steel core. It was the same length as the 196 gr lead core. I hated that steel cased ammo. Every once in a while the case did not expand and the gasses were blown back in your face.

[Texas by God]

The best surplus ammo ever in my opinion is the FNM/Portugal 196 gr Berdan NC ball of 1970's vintage. Very clean consistent and shot 1.5 MOA from my Hakim and Mauser. Samco had it. Best, Thomas.

[Multigunner]

Best 7.92 Mauser milsurp ammo I've ever bought was Canadian made. It had Boxer primers and clear annealing lines on the necks. It was easily reloadable and sure fire. Of course that ammo was still fairly fresh at the time, the late 60's.

The ammo may have been intended for the BERSA MG or for a Chinese contract, not sure which. Never got to try it in a full length rifle, but it shot well enough in my short barreled carbine.

[Shiloh]

Loaded up 60 rounds for it. Gonna be high 50˚'s Sat and Sun!!

SHiloh

[Texas by God]

Wish I was there to help! Have fun. Best, Thomas.

[Geezer in NH]

As usual Mr Humble is belittling people. Weren't you just spanked and told to knock it off?

If you look closely you will see a M48 and a M24/47 in the first pic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/tommeboy/DSC00498.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/tommeboy/media/DSC00498.jpg.html)

But look here is a better pic of the M48. And two Yugo SKS's with "teak" wood stocks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/tommeboy/guns_002_edited.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/tommeboy/media/guns_002_edited.jpg.html)

But little does Mr Humble know that I build wood boats and help a friend who restores old ChrisCrafts. I have built five boats out of wood. Lots of steaming stips to bend around a frame and nailing the whole thing together. But who am I to know about working with REAL Teak on these older boats. I used my first scull boat for hunting duck for almost 20 years before I sold it off.

Before you belittle a person on this post and any other you might want to do a little more research of the person before you do.

Please mark the teal ones.

[Geezer in NH]

The surplus Turkish ammo kicked like a mule and had a muzzle blast like a naval gun. It is all but gone, and what I have seen in the last couple of years was a lot more expensive. Used to get a 70 round bandoleer for less than $5. I have some that I paid around $3 for.

Some was in good shape, other bandoleers had corroded cartridges, and the occasional ones that were spilling powder.
I use 4227 with the LEE 175 gr. RN.

SHiloh
Brings back memories of the 2 pallets I bought from Century Arms at $.03 per round in the 1990's. I got 2 8mm barrels for my 1919A4 just for them.

Wow!! Many cracked necks I had to separate out. These went to use in the Turk 98's I sold in my shop. It seems the cracked necks were no big deal in them.

After separating and linking them up either in cloth belts or metal links about every third 250 round belt the top cover would blow up!!! Big fire balls at the muzzle were observed.

God bless JMB take the top cover and bang it flat on an anvil and the gun would function like new. After the first pallet was gone and part of the 2nd I gave up no reason for it by dates or looks of the ammo. Sold the rest off later at $.30 a round, the buyer was informed why but wanted it then as 8mm was at least $.60 at the time.

Most Bolt action shooters were taking it and pulling the bullets and dumping the powder to be reloaded 5-7 grains less. I have 3 50 cal cans of it in my storage and when get time will pull it down and do the same.

It is one of the foulest ammo I have ever shot. Not just the primers but the bullet jackets leave stalagmites in the bore. Thank God for Sweets 7.62.

[Shiloh]

C.A.L Georgia Vermont on the right side just being the front sight. Mine is a Century Arms import.

SHiloh

[Prospector Howard]

I bought alot of that Turk ammo back in the day. I pulled the projos on all of it and reloaded it back with 40 grains to tame it. They shot great at that level. I remember paying J & G in Prescott AZ $79 for 1400 round cases. The leftover powder worked great with cast in my 30-30. 23 grains with 160 grain cast was a nice load as i recall.

[tomme boy]

Please mark the teal ones.

Geezer it was a jab at Mr. Humble. NONE of these or any gun from Yugo were made with teak.

[Shiloh]

You are right Tomme Boy, and here is why.

Yugoslavia, like the rest of communist, post-war was dead broke. There currency was no good outside the country, and there was little to buy with
it in country. What do you pay or trade for teak when they had elm, birch and other hardwoods??
This has been a good topic. Learned a lot about surplus 8mm ammo.

Shiloh

[Geezer in NH]

Geezer it was a jab at Mr. Humble. NONE of these or any gun from Yugo were made with teak.Duh got it

[303Guy]

Here is the M48.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/DSC08093_zpsikj34cvu.jpg (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/303Guy/media/DSC08093_zpsikj34cvu.jpg.html)http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/DSC08096_zps74ofqw9p.jpg (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/303Guy/media/DSC08096_zps74ofqw9p.jpg.html)http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/DSC08098_zpsiwkgcoie.jpg (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/303Guy/media/DSC08098_zpsiwkgcoie.jpg.html)http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/DSC08095_zpspbwiuf1n.jpg (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/303Guy/media/DSC08095_zpspbwiuf1n.jpg.html)http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/DSC08092_zpse13eibch.jpg (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/303Guy/media/DSC08092_zpse13eibch.jpg.html)http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/DSC08094_zpsspgefg0p.jpg (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/303Guy/media/DSC08094_zpsspgefg0p.jpg.html)http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/DSC08091_zpsyqaipb1s.jpg (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/303Guy/media/DSC08091_zpsyqaipb1s.jpg.html)

[Shiloh]

Wish I was there to help! Have fun. Best, Thomas.

I can ring the gong at 200 yards almost always from a rest. The smaller one on the hill at 230+ is harder. Can you spot??

Shiloh

[Shiloh]

Thanks for the photos 303Guy!!

Shiloh