Can you change a barrel yourself on a S&W?

[6bg6ga]

Just wondering and never looked so I will throw out a few questions. Years ago I owned a Dan Wessen that you could change barrel lengths on and unfortunately I didn't keep it but that is another story. Anyway wondering if a guy can say change a barrel on a 25-5 or a 686 or 629 S&W handgun.

[376Steyr]

The short answer is no, the S&W barrel can't be changed by the owner. The long answer is it can be done, but a successful job requires a lot of specialized tools. In theory all you need is a sturdy vise, a couple of blocks of hardwood to clamp the barrel in, a punch to drive out the pin that goes through the barrel threads (if present on the particular model), a stout wooden lever to unscrew the frame from the barrel, and a file to cut off any excess metal that the new barrel has on it that prevents it from fitting properly. What could possibly go wrong? :roll:

[rintinglen]

I have done it twice: i do not choose to do it again. it is difficult to line up the new barrel and replace the pin

[Moleman-]

I got a 629 very cheap because someone decided they would drill and tap the barrel while drunk or cross eyed or possibly both. The gun was in great shape other than that. Made an insert for the N frame for the action wrench I'd made to remove M1 barrels and used oak to hold the barrel. Found a like new take off barrel on ebay. Had to set the barrel back 1 turn and then shorten the barrel stub length in order to get the barrel/cylinder gap to be correct. Luckily I have the machine tools to do the work.

[Drm50]

What you don't want to do on any revolver is clamp the barrel and use the "window" as a port
to insert some block as a wrench to screw the frame off the barrel. That is a good way to warp
the top strap. Filler block must be used to put strain on whole frame, not just top strap. Depending on model and dash numbers the newer S&Ws don't have the barrel pin.

[Moleman-]

My 629 doesn't have the barrel pin so that was one less thing to deal with. But the insert I made for my M1 wrench clamped the front section as Drm50 stated so that the frame didn't get twisted. That was one piece of advise I was given when asking someone who had changed them before. Here's one that is very similar to what I used http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/action-frame-tools/action-wrenches/revolver-action-wrench-for-s-w-prod25104.aspx

[leftiye]

I make aluminum blocks which are cut out to fit around the part of the frame that the barrel screws in to. These, because of the cut for the frame below the barrel - clamp down on the critical part of the frame when put in a vice (= frame wrench). Given something to grip the barrel (there are several ways to do this), these do the job admirably. Other than unscrewing the barrel, the rest is just standard mechanic/ machinist work. Set the barrel back to time, time the barrel, cut the pin hole to clear, turn the rear of barrel to clear the cylinder correctly, etc.

[44man]

Frame wrench is a must. Chunk of wood is not good. Frames on Smiths are not hard. I would not take a Ruger barrel off without the proper tools. Send to S&W for work. Much cheaper.

[scattershot]

No. I bent the frame on a Model 29 once trying this, and I heartily recommend that you not try it yourself.

[Tatume]

Another thing to be aware of: blue steel S&W revolvers sometimes have a bit of corrosion between the frame and barrel threads. If present, it "glues" the barrel in. When the barrel is removed, it can crack the frame. There is no way to predict this; it's just luck of the draw. Doesn't seem to happen with stainless steel guns.

[Boogieman]

I have barreled a Ruger BH with a home made barrel vise and chunk of hard wood through the cylinder cutout Indexed the barrel with a safe edge file and bearing blue. It took a lot of time.

[Ithaca Gunner]

I've done and will do N frames with the proper tooling from Brownell's. Cost for such tooling is around $500.00. Send it to S&W.

[44man]

Nothing justifies expense for a gun. You have to do hundreds to break even. The factory has all.
Send a Ruger off for custom work with silly laser engraving. Much money and it does not shoot better then out of box.

[Porterhouse]

Unless absolutely, positively needs to get done, I would leave it alone. Some of the non pinned barrels are fit really tight and refuse to come off. One example;
Bowen was working on my M29-5, 6" barrel cutting down to 5" a couple of years ago. He wrote me the barrel doesn't want to come off and he was afraid of damaging flame if he tried any harder. He recommended to give up on that gun and use earlier, pinned barrel M29 for the project, instead. I had spare barrel on hand at the time so told him to just cut off. At the end, I was happy as the gun came back just the way I wanted but cost me a lot more than I expected. After this and may be a couple of similar incidents, Bowen stopped working on S&Ws.