How do you mark your converted brass?

[Fordcragar]

I'm just starting to convert some 9mm Luger brass into 9mm Mak brass. What do you use to mark your converted brass. I could do nothing and try to sort it out later, but thought maybe a few extra minutes would be better initially.

[17nut]

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/R0011685_zps02043499.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/Chickenthief/media/Skydning/R0011685_zps02043499.jpg.html)

[Half Dog]

Here is a previous post that describes how to color brass

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?66487-Coloring-brass-cases

[rondog]

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/R0011685_zps02043499.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/Chickenthief/media/Skydning/R0011685_zps02043499.jpg.html)

I had the same idea! Chuck each case in a small lathe and cut a very small score line in the center of the headstamp! I wouldn't groove them as deep as yours, just a lightly scored line would do, just enough to be visible and obvious. Only have to mark them once.

[quack1]

I don't own a 9mm so don't have to keep my cut down Makarov brass separated. If I had to, first thing that came to mind would be to use plated brass for one and plain brass in the other. Or, choose one brand of brass for one and never use that brand in the other. A simple check of headstamp would sort them.

[jhalcott]

I have not run. Into this problem yet. I did reformsome 308 &243 into 7-08 cases a long time ago. I just colored the bases with a permanent marker.

[drhall762]

If my new round will chamber in the headstamped chamber, I mark them. If not I don't get too concerned. Example: I made 7.5 French MAS brass from 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser. Won't chamber in the Swede so I don't bother.

[Fordcragar]

I had thought about steel stamping "Mak" on each one. A friend that is a jeweler has promised to make the stamp. Doing this would take about the same amount of time as chucking them in a lathe.

[tankgunner59]

I don't have the need since I don't have a gun in the caliber I start with. So I know which it is. However, I do mark my test loads so I can test more than one load at a time, I use as many colors of permanent marker as needed. I put a mark on the case head and an x on the case side.

[Don Fischer]

If I had both, I would not convert the 9mm luger brass. I'd find some other brass to use or maybe the right brass to use. I used to have a 308 and 243 that I took LC brass and sized down to 243. My kid came by one day while I was gone and decided to show his buddy how great a shooter my 308 was. He opened a box and looked at the head stamp and took the box of 243 stuff, embarrass himself pretty bad. He tols me he'd fire and the bullet's were hitting the ground about 20' from the barrel. I've never done anything like that again. My 6.5-06 ammo is made on 270 case's, I don't have a 270. If I didn't have a 243 and 308 still, well I wouldn't make case's out of anything else, case's over their life span are cheap. To easy to have two rifles from the same case and mix up rounds by only noticing the head stamp. My son has never made that foolish mistake again!

[Don Fischer]

I had thought about steel stamping "Mak" on each one. A friend that is a jeweler has promised to make the stamp. Doing this would take about the same amount of time as chucking them in a lathe.

Marking test load, I write the load on the side of each case with a felt tip pen.

[Fordcragar]

My reason for the conversion is purely economics. I have thousands of 9mm Luger brass and 9mm Mak brass is about $0.18 each. The Luger brass is cheap or free. So for a 1000 pcs of 9mm Mak brass plus shipping, I'm looking at about $200. For a retired guy it isn't always easy to come with an extra $200. If it was easy to retrieve all my brass it wouldn't be an issue, but my P64 and CZ82 launch the brass into the next county.

[EDG]

For Makarov brass you might consider using military head stamped brass with no caliber nomenclature.

[skeettx]

I mark the BOX and then pick up the brass after firing before I get
out a box of a different cartridge.
But pistol ammo is rarely modified except for my 22 Harvey K-Chuck.
Mike

[tankgunner59]

Fordcragar, I understand your situation, when we're young we think things can last forever. I was declared disabled in 2013 after 50 years of blue collar work. So I have to be very frugal in my reloading. Thats why I use the permanent marker for convewrted cases. But I do like EDG's idea for your conversions and you could use your new stamp on them right on the head.

[izzyjoe]

I have take a small triangle file and cut a small notch on the rim, I did that years ago when I had a 280 Rem using 270 brass.

[Tom W.]

I use different color boxes. And label each box, inside and out.

[Fordcragar]

For Makarov brass you might consider using military head stamped brass with no caliber nomenclature.
I like this idea, but I have at least 10,000 9mm Luger cases. So I'll probably not look for any of them, unless I run across some for free. The nickel plated cases would be a good idea, but I probably only have a handful of them.

At one of the ranges that I shoot at, I might be able to collect half of the brass that I shoot, with the P64 or CZ82. So investing in throw away brass isn't something I'm too interested in.

Another place that I shoot at, is actually a group function, the brass is collected after the shoot and made available at the next event; which a good deal as I'm one of the only reloader, so I can pick up more than I shoot at each event.

[P Flados]

The fast and simple marking that makes sorting fired cases easy is to take a red or blue sharpy and color in the extractor groove. At this location, the color will stay put pretty good unless you tumble/vibrate to clean your brass.

[EDG]

Will you also be leaving the miss marked Makarov brass behind at these ranges?
If you do you might buy a steel stamp set and XXX out the "Luger". I don't think leaving what constitutes as defective brass for others is a good idea.


I like this idea, but I have at least 10,000 9mm Luger cases. So I'll probably not look for any of them, unless I run across some for free. The nickel plated cases would be a good idea, but I probably only have a handful of them.

At one of the ranges that I shoot at, I might be able to collect half of the brass that I shoot, with the P64 or CZ82. So investing in throw away brass isn't something I'm too interested in.

Another place that I shoot at, is actually a group function, the brass is collected after the shoot and made available at the next event; which a good deal as I'm one of the only reloader, so I can pick up more than I shoot at each event.

[Fordcragar]

Will you also be leaving the miss marked Makarov brass behind at these ranges?
If you do you might buy a steel stamp set and XXX out the "Luger". I don't think leaving what constitutes as defective brass for others is a good idea.
I don't think leaving behind mismarked brass is a good idea either, that is why I asked the question. Some guys have told me not to worry about it, but I didn't want to create a problem for someone else. If I were to mark them with "MAK", I'd grind out Luger on the cases first. I'm thinking about putting them in a lathe, like was shown. I'm still looking for a solution though.

[avogunner]

When I want to quickly differentiate between brass I would color the brass as others have suggested. I would use Birchwood Casey Brass Black. I would set the cases upright in a shallow pan and pour in the solution to a level that suited my fancy at the time. Then the case heads, and a bit more, would be chemically colored black for easy ID.
Semper Fi.

Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

[rondog]

Leaving brass behind ain't in my plan, especially brass I've modified. If my pistol pitches it too far, then I'd just shoot that imported steel-cased garbage, or rig up a brass catcher of some kind.

[funnyjim014]

Electro-pen the head stamp and sharpie with color every reload. Quick and effective. You don't want to have to stand the cases and sort them out. Also milatary brass works good for this if you have some

[Soundguy]

I use colored marker on mine.

[Sur-shot]

If my feeble brain recall correctly, Aluminum Black turns brass black and lasts for about 10 cleanings. You just take a cotton ball and dab the base, it turns black instantly and stays black. Another way is to take a carbide ball cutter in a motor tool and make a line, double line or X across the base.
Ed

[jonas302]

Fingernail polish seems to hold in better than markers and at least would make someone think twice as to why its marked

[Fordcragar]

I just wanted to add that I don't leave much brass behind, except that these Makarov rounds seem to launch; which seems like in the next county. At one of the ranges (outdoor) I shoot at, I'm lucky if I can retrieve half of them. The indoor ranges I have better luck finding them.

[Soundguy]

I'll add, from the other side of the table, when I scavenge free range brass, I smoke it over extra good. 9x17, 9x18, and 9x19 are easy to differentiate if you actually are looking.

So is 44special/magnum, 38/357.

I know a guy that loads 38+p+ loads, but he does it in cut down 357 brass.

That way it stands out as 'wrong' if you have 357 headstamps that 'fit' your 38spl cyl.

He then knows those are his +

( I actually have a small collection of nickle +p 38spl brass for mine ).

I make 8mm nambu from 6.8spc. Headstamp not an issue. ;)

[EDG]

9x17, 9x18, and 9x19 are easy to differentiate if you actually are looking.;)

I have to say that one of the biggest gripes I have seen are guys that do not look at their brass before loading it. Then they whine about getting a jam in their progressive because they cannot stuff a LP primer into a 45 ACP case with a small primer pocket.

[Soundguy]

Exactly... Too many brush over case prep/inspection.

I was given a few bags of primed, ready to load 222rem brass by a loader at a show once. He sold the rifle it went to and the guy didn't load/didnt want the brass.

Said it was primed and ready.

I smoked it over when i got home. Didn't lol at it at the show as it was free.

I'd guess I culled 25% of the cases on initial inspection.

Of the culled ones, about 20% had neck burn thru's and shoulder fissures.

The rest had other defects.

I deprimed a sample ( 20 cases ),lightly lubed and sized them, expected an easy go. Stuck first case. Hmm odd. Relubed ' normal', cleaned my die after extraction of stuck, and polished its ID just to be sure.

Those were the hardest to size brass I've ever seen. Must have went thru some liberal chamber autoloader , and they had forward shoulders when measured.. Like excessive headspace..

By that time I re inspected them, and out of an abundance of safety culled about another 15% of the original total to disclude even the slightest defect, including cosmetic.

I still have? 200-300 of them and use them in small batches only, and when shooting in a place difficult to recover brass. I dont pick them up, they are one use fire and forget as far as I am concerned.

These things were so out of size, I couldn't comfortably size them on a lee C press due to lack of leverage. Had to use my rock chucker.

Not sure what gun he fired them in, but it had a junk chamber.

Did anyone make a full auto in 222? Whatever gun these ran in, it had a huge chamber and neck dented 1/4 of the brass, and left a heavy extractor mark, or a scratch from a brass deflector...


Point was.. This guy must have been blind if he thought that brass was good enough to prime.

What a waste of 3-4 cents per case!

[woodbutcher]

:-D Hmmmmmmmmm.Full auto triple duce.IIRC,Ruger made some for the French Police in the Mini 14 platform.They ain`t allowed to have military caliber weapons.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[Soundguy]

Interesting..

[DanishM1Garand]

AR15s were made in .222 for places with military caliber restrictions. A RLL or RDIAS would run it FA.

[Soundguy]

Well, that could be a possibility then I suppose.