586 Value

[nannyhammer]

All, Needing help from those with S&W knowledge. I came across the 586 in the pictures below. As you can see from the photos it has some damage. Overall the gun is mechanically sound but a little ugly. Not sure if it's a dash or a no dash model but the S/N is reportly AJBXXX. What would you value the gun at if you were buying from a family member.





184659184660

[Dan Cash]

Check the gun for end shake and lock up. If tight, not over $300.

[rintinglen]

Here that would be a 450 dollar gun, assuming sound mechanical function, due to the freckling and damage to the finish. A clean 357 of any decent make will run at least that. If the finish were a little better you'd expect to pay 500 bucks for that gun here in California. Now, if the bore is shot, the rust spots extend to into the cylinder chambers or other problems exist, then you might be looking at less, a lot less. But if it is sound, it will most likely shoot well.

[bouncer50]

I have a 586 first model myself as i recall they had some problems. Their was a recall from the factory to fix it. My mind is not what it used to be what the exact problem was.

[Sean357]

I had a 586-1 4" barrel a couple years ago. Lock up was tight and blueing was about 75%, traded for it but the trade value was about $450. Ended up selling it for $430 or $440. For family? Well they get the family discount... $100 over what you'd sell it for to a stranger. :-D

[9.3X62AL]

Bouncer, that "issue" with the early 586/686 series revolvers involved primers back-cratering into the firing pin channel from oversized channel diameters. My first 586 did that with softer primers (Federal 100, Rem SP), but CCI and Win were no problem--even with Doug Wesson/1935-level loadings. It is aggravated a bit by shade-tree gunsmiths that file down mainspring strain screws and/or add a bit of mid-point "bend" to the mainspring.

[6bg6ga]

I would get a dealer opinion on value and if your the one buying I would pay the value the dealer said it was worth. If selling I would sell at the appraised value. No matter what you do sooner or later you will will be accused of purchasing the gun under value or paying too much for it if your buying and if your the selling party you will be accused of selling it at too high a price. Selling or purchasing at a dealer value will protect you from the BS storm that will follow sooner or later.

[Lloyd Smale]

Id take all of them in that shape for 300 bucks you could find me. North of 400 bucks in my opinion. Probably closer to 500. Take a look at what a new one sells for

[Wayne Smith]

Location matters. You posted no location. New England vs. the South is different, California vs. the Mid West changes as well.

[nannyhammer]

All,
Appreciate the inputs. I'm located in Arkansas and although I don't frequent gun shops on a routine basis I haven't seen a 586or a 686 in while. I'm looking at buying this one to replace one I traded in the early 90's to offset the cost for a Contender frame. I would also be purchasing this as a shooter since I don't collect any gun.

[30calflash]

Hi, I purchased a 4" 586 no dash a few weeks ago at my LGS. It had bluing wear, almost like something spilled on portions of it, on the barrel and cylinder. Most likely a PD trade in. Factory grip had a couple chunks on the butt missing. Got it for $360.

In the NE 3 and 4" barreled revolvers don't stick around too long, not like the longer barreled samples.

[wv109323]

I bought a mint 686 no dash in the box for $625. It had Crimson trace laser grips. It was a 6" barrel.

[Lance Boyle]

I bought a real nice -2 6" for $320 after taxes iirc. I didn't need a 6" and wanted a 4" but the price was quite good and it shoots better than my other magnums.


eta- no freckling or rust just some bluing loss on the barrel tip from holstering.

[Mike Kerr]

About $400 to $435 as a mechanically sound shooter with some finish problems. Don't know how to factor in the family member part.

[kingstrider]

My first S&W was a mint 4" 586 that I later traded for a 629. In my area that would easily be a $400+ gun as long as the internals are clean.

[jeepyj]

At my LGS that would be a $425 - $475 because of the finish. Depending on the family member I would expect $375- $400ish. I'd probably snap it up for anything under $500 depending on the dash

[murf205]

nannyhammer, if yo buy that 586 for $300 and it shoots like you'd like it to, you could always send it back to S&W and have it refinished. They will not buff the gun to death and remove any lettering or numbers. I love my no dash 586 4" and if yours is mechanically sound, it is well worth refinishing buy the factory. You might also try Fords Firearms Refinishing. They are as good and maybe a tick better than the factory.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

In my area...and to me, I'd pay $400 in a heartbeat, and probably as much as $500 after handling it, and inspecting it for wear and tightness.
S&W prices have gone crazy in the last couple years, I haven't seen anything in reasonably good condition for under $500.

case in point.
in April 2015, I held a gun auction. on the list were two model 10 (S&W 38spl) 4" blu bbl. Both, I believe, were police dept trade ins which I had bought a few years earlier, but were pretty good condition. One had German military police proof marks, a bit of curiosity, but not really adding much value. Both sold for over $500 at my auction (a couple hundred more than I spent on them). This sept, at a local gunshow, I seen a model 10 with the same German proof marks on a table, I am 100% sure it's the same gun, as it had a tag stating "German military proof marks"...in my handwritting, LOL. That dealer had a price, north of 800, on it :shock:

[saleen322]

Have not seen any $300 model 586s laying around and I would be buying if I see one

[9.3X62AL]

I admit to CONSIDERABLE positive prejudice that favors the L-frame S&W 357 Magnums greatly. I have a 1990-range 686 x 4" that I prize highly and carry a great deal. I am rehabbing a Bianchi X-15 shouler rig currently as its primary carry rig. Those elastic tesion bands don't last forever. I just stumbled onto a chance at a 586 x 6" of similar vintage that can be acquired via trade in March, and I am pretty sure I will make that move. Yes--new-production S&W revolvers are still made, though with glory holes and MIM parts. It took me quite a while to warm up to Glocks, and I still haven't warmed up to revolver locks or MIM parts. (I'm none too enthused about Ford pickups with recycled beer can body metal, either). In short, new things need to come in small dosage units for me, or I will choke on them. The family-involved sale price is a wild card I won't deal, but as it sits assuming good mechanical function a figure of $400-$450 seems fair to me sitting here in Californistan as a private-party sale price. My biases--I don't care much about finish, but fit and function gotta be at least decent before I'll even consider a buy.

[Love Life]

I'd offer no more than $400.

[fatelk]

My biases--I don't care much about finish, but fit and function gotta be at least decent before I'll even consider a buy.

I'm with you on that. I had a nickel 4" model 29-2 that I really liked. It looked rough but shot great. On a gun I'm going to use I really don't mind finish wear and imperfections. That particular .44 was stolen in '99, so If anyone ever runs across a 4" nickel 29 that doesn't look pretty, contact me and I'll dig out the serial number.

As to what the 586 in question is worth; I don't have much to contribute. I think I paid $250 for mine, but that was a few years ago. OK, more than just a few. :)

[nannyhammer]

Appreciate everyone's inputs. Always good to get value estimates from each person's widely varied experience.

[Thin Man]

Both 9.3X62AL and I have the same memory about the early L-frame S&W's. The challenge these firearms faced was when someone in S&W's engineering section decided the L's should carry the large size hammer nose and bushing. Primer flow into the hammer nose bushing (in the frame) locked up the cylinder until the user could untie it. Not a good thing on a LEO duty or citizen's personal protection firearm. In order to expedite their corrections to these firearms, S&W issued (free) kits of tools and parts to LE armorers and recognized gunsmiths and shops. The kits included replacement small size hammer noses, rivets, frame bushings, tools to remove-replace-stake the new bushings in the frame, and a punch with a specific insignia on it. They also issued quantities of Federal 357 ammo (158 grain JSP) for proof testing the firearm after the work was completed. Once the correction was completed the insignia punch was used to mark the frame inside the yoke window where it could be seen when the cylinder was opened from the frame. I'm trying to recall the insignia was a letter, but it has been too long since I handled those tools to recall. The parts and correction service were available without cost to the firearm owner. The armorers and gunsmiths who completed these tasks were not compensated, but were appreciated.

As for the revolver in this thread, have it inspected by any armorer or 'smith who remembers those conversions. They should be able to quickly determine if that conversion has been completed on your specific firearm. If it has, all is well. If it has not, either the S&W factory or perhaps a very experienced (read that as senior) LEO armorer (hopefully one who way in service when these tools were issued) could make that change for you.

Thin Man

[murf205]

I admit to CONSIDERABLE positive prejudice that favors the L-frame S&W 357 Magnums greatly. I have a 1990-range 686 x 4" that I prize highly and carry a great deal. I am rehabbing a Bianchi X-15 shouler rig currently as its primary carry rig. Those elastic tesion bands don't last forever. I just stumbled onto a chance at a 586 x 6" of similar vintage that can be acquired via trade in March, and I am pretty sure I will make that move. Yes--new-production S&W revolvers are still made, though with glory holes and MIM parts. It took me quite a while to warm up to Glocks, and I still haven't warmed up to revolver locks or MIM parts. (I'm none too enthused about Ford pickups with recycled beer can body metal, either). In short, new things need to come in small dosage units for me, or I will choke on them. The family-involved sale price is a wild card I won't deal, but as it sits assuming good mechanical function a figure of $400-$450 seems fair to me sitting here in Californistan as a private-party sale price. My biases--I don't care much about finish, but fit and function gotta be at least decent before I'll even consider a buy.

I love the L frames too. My 686 came to me in a trade and it shoots like a rifle from day 1. It really loves 180 gr boolits. Here is a 50 yd target with 180's. Hated to put a scope on it but the results speak for themselves. Nannyhammer,, I traded a Model 48 S&W that I had $425 tied up in and we both left happy.

[sharpshooter3040]

All, Needing help from those with S&W knowledge. I came across the 586 in the pictures below. As you can see from the photos it has some damage. Overall the gun is mechanically sound but a little ugly. Not sure if it's a dash or a no dash model but the S/N is reportly AJBXXX. What would you value the gun at if you were buying from a family member.





184659184660

I have owned several of these over the years distinguished combat magnums. When they first came out I believe in the 1980's S&W was owed by the Lier Siegler group kind of the beginning of the dark times for S&W. I bought one as soon as the came available. The fit and finish was horrible. Burrs on the chambers tool marks in the rebound slide area. Later models were better. These were never big dollar guns, even though they were a very attractive piece especially in full target attire. Your gun in my opinion is a 300.00 gun as a shooter. Around here (Ohio)I have seen very nice examples for the 5-600 dollar range


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[shovelhead96]

I wish we had some 300-400 $ Smiths around here. I haven,t seen a .357 of any brand in any condition for that.

[Kawriverrat]

I wish we had some 300-400 $ Smiths around here. I haven,t seen a .357 of any brand in any condition for that.

I'm in Kansas & I concur.

[6bg6ga]

I'm in Iowa and I concur also.

[sharpshooter3040]

They are out there if you look. You don't see them too much in the shops because they are a tough sell. It is true the market is a lot tougher now and deals are harder to find but they are out there


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[sharpshooter3040]

There are a couple on gun broker less than 500 that are in decent shape. A lot of pricey asking but no bidders.


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[Petrol & Powder]

Off the top of my head the mark that was stamped on the L-frames to indicate the firing pin bushing had been replaced was a "M".

Considering that L-frames aren't all that rare, I would pass on that one posted by the OP unless he can get it really cheap. Even if that gun was mechanically sound I wouldn't dump a lot of money into it.

[30calflash]

I wish we had some 300-400 $ Smiths around here. I haven,t seen a .357 of any brand in any condition for that.

Yep, unless you stumble into one the days of good used $300 revolvers are pretty much done. I feel lucky that I acquired my externally imperfect example.

Rough looking model 10's are more than that in my area.

[sharpshooter3040]

Unfortunately it seems a lot of gunshops are using GunBroker asking prices as the litmus test regardless of whether or not they sell. I see those prices around here too. However try to sell one of the rough looking model 10's to them and see what you are offered. If you are vigilant and not in a hurry good deals can be found from individuals that don't want to get screwed by the big box gunshops or have endless "picker type " prices the big dealers ask on gunbroker


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[sharpshooter3040]

Bear in mind the value of a gun is only worth what someone will pay for it, depending if you are on the buying or selling end. If I'm assessing the value of a piece I'm going to assess it at what a dealer is going to give you for it. I have about 29 years of retail experience, that's how it has worked for as long as I can remember depending on supply and demand.


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