Drill & tap 99H?

[jes]

I recently picked up a 99H in 30-30, the good news, action seems as tight as the day it was mfg, the bore is good and overall condition is quite good. The bad, wood has been refinished(good job), the entire rifle has been reblued(very nice job), the buttstock has been squared off and an ugly rubber recoil pad installed. I'm finding that I can no longer shoot open sights and struggle with peeps. How far has this rifle already been depreciated, and will D&Ting it do that much more to bring it down? Is it nothing more than a shooter already, or is it an old classic and I should be looking for something already D&T ed? Would appreciate some opinions on what to do with this old soldier. I love the rifle, but can't shoot as is.

[oscarflytyer]

you can't hurt it, it's yours and you need peeps. D&T and shoot! I have a pre-'64 '94 in 32 WS. Been reblued, restocked (with a VERY nice semi-fancy+ stock set AND very fine checkered). I got it right and collector value is gone. I am going to drill wood for a sling (I won't have one w/o a sling!) and drill receiver for a peep sight and shoot the H3!! out of it!

[Scharfschuetze]

I think that you will really like that Savage 99H in 30/30.

Is it the barrel band version? Those were made for three years from 1937 to 1940 as I understand it.

Mine is quite a shooter with a solid Marble's tang aperture on it. I'm still OK with peeps and given this one's original and 95% condition, it won't get modified in any way.

When loading for mine using the Lyman 311041 mould, the overall length of the magazine is right at: 2.125"

Post a photo of yours. Here's mine:

[jes]

Yes it is the barrel band version, 1937 I believe. Beautiful rifle, but completely redone. I really like the way it points and balances. What would I need for bases for it? Is there anything currently available?

[richhodg66]

BAses are easy. I have found the Redfield types to be problematic on some of them, but the Weaver types work great

I love 99s and have several. I think I'd have a hard time drilling and tapping one that wasn't factory, but it sounds like yours has had it's collector's value (to the die hard purists, anyway) depreciated already.

I'd love to have a .30-30 one. Closest I have is a 99H in .303, it's a good shooter with cast.

[Scharfschuetze]

This Savage 99 is circa 1959 and I think that it came over from a European military rod and gun club. The reason for that is that it has the European style scope mounts on it that don't use rings, but attach to the bottom of the scope. It also enjoys a nice steel Lyman aperture sight as a back up unit as well as European sling swivels. While this info is of no help to you, I think that it is an interesting way to mount a scope.

[Jedman]

I say D&T the gun to mount a scope and be happy with it.

Jedman

[-D-]

Stith mounts. Why drill it up when it could be restored? If not now, in the future. But who cares, treat it like you're the last owner.

[jes]

I'd love to go with Stith mounts, but it might be a long time before a set of those show up. I tried to find a set for my Remington 513s a few years ago and still haven't come across any.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Weaver bases are the #14 and #19, Tasco made a 1 piece base that takes Weaver rings that show up on Ebay. Redfield made two different bases - the 'early' model is receiver length with the forward hole spacing wider than than ' factory' standard; the later Redfield and 'redfield' style bases have the standard factory spacing and do extend beyond the front of the receiver. The Redfield base does only require three holes and has the windage capability, as opposed to four holes for the Weaver bases. The 'modern' and longer redfield style bases do have a fairly long ring spacing so many scopes can not be positioned well. I have seen extended rings used to on both front and rear withe extended ring turned to the front or rear to accommodate various scopes. I would drill and tap for more enjoyment. Be careful, Savage 99's have only one flat spot, the flat in the front bottom of the receiver ring that is square with the receiver. Careful alignment with the tang sight screw holes should be taken to avoid crooked holes. Burris Signaure rings with plastic inserts can reduce stress on your scope and with their offsets can aid in adjustment. Stith mounts limit scope choice severely and have their own issues.

[runfiverun]

i know nothing about savage lever guns [and i mean nothing]
but something is telling me not to drill for scope rings on this one.

[wv109323]

I would do my homework before D&Ting. I acquired my fathers Savage 99. He had see through mounts on it that placed the scope well above the barrel. I went with Weaver bases and Redfield (Weaver style) medium rings. This arrangement still places the scope very very high and does not allow the scope to be mounted to the rear as much as needed. I went with a Weaver K4 scope.
The Savage 99 was designed as an iron sighted rifle. Adding a scope needs some attention.

[reivertom]

I have a 99F .243 that was D&T from the factory, but it still was hard to find a scope that I could set back far enough to not have to stretch forward to see. I had a Leupold 1x4x20, and a VX2 2x7 and neither one felt right. I finally took a chance and bought an older Leupold 4x fixed power, and it had enough eye relief to work. I don't get any longshots in the thick woods where I hunt, so 4x is fine. I guess any power fixed might work, but I would do my homework first. I hear this is a problem many have scoping the 99s. I don't know if I could bring myself to D&T an older one, but to each his own.

[northmn]

They make extension rings to permit setting a scope back further. I used them on a long action 270 to get a better fit. On a 30-30 you can also get by with longer eye relief lower powered scopes. I own my guns to shoot. If the thing is a collector that I cannot modify to shoot best for me, I would prefer to sell it to a collector and get one that I can shoot. I have a waffle top Marlin that is looking at getting drilled and tapped for a scope so I can shoot it.

DEP

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I would scope it. I just checked my bunch of scoped Savage 99's. Scopes mounted include 2 Leupold VX2 3-9X40, 2 Leupold VX2/II 2-7x32, 2 Weaver V2.5-10x38, a Swift4-12, a Simmons 4-12, and a Leupold 2.5. There are 2 'new style ' Redfield 'type' bases, an 'old-style' Redfield base, and the rest are Weaver style bases. Rings are low and medium Weaver, Burris, Redfield, Warne and Millet, a couple quick-detach. I am not using any extension rings. I bases are closer together than a commercial 98 Mauser and farther apart than a Marlin 336. If a rifle does not have a significant collector value, I change to what I WANT. Rifles are for shooting, scopes improve the experience and usefulness.

[OverMax]

Old Savage rifles have a unusually hard steel receiver for drilling & Tapping. I'm not saying it can't be done. Just that the fellow who does it will earn his pay.
Just saying:
As soon as the previous owner cut and added that recoil pad perhaps re-blued the entire rifle there after. Its collectors value immediately dropped to where its value is now in the eyes of the beholder.
BTW: Re-bluing is particularly hard on collector gun values. Reason being seldom is a bluing removal buffing correctly done.

If you get the little H model set-up with a scope be prepared to be entertained. 30wcf their just a Ball to shoot.

[dragon813gt]

The Savage 99 was designed as an iron sighted rifle. Adding a scope needs some attention.

Easily addressed w/ a NOS stock from one of the later models. They're still available but do cost a good bit of money. Since the OP's rifle collector value has been ruined it's a valid option if he does decided to D&T it. I have no issue killing collector value of most firearms. I turn them into what I want.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Yeah, drilling and tapping a Savage 99 takes very careful work. For a drill jig, the modern 'Redfield-type' one piece base works well. The hole-spacing is 0.500 plus/minus five-thousandths for the front receiver ring. (casual measurement on 4/5 Weaver and Redfield bases). The Redfiel/Burris/Leupold 1 piece base fits over the front receiver ring providing a recoil shoulder. Squaring with the receiver flat under the barrel should get you close. The steel is very tough,though not hard in a case hardened way, a spotting drill or end mill is the best way to start the holes. A NEW drill (#31) and NEW 6-48 bottom and plugs taps should be used. This is a job for a skilled and patient craftsmen. Layout is critical. Again the rear tang sight holes can assist in set-up. I use a 5-minute epoxy for set-up of the base. When installing the bases, I use AccraSteel or J-B Weld on the bases to provide a tight and level fit. I do NOT glue the base to the rifle for the final installation. A little heat loosens the 5-minute epoxy after set-up. Shooting a pleasant old rifle with a decent scope is worth the trouble, especially for us older guys shooting small targets past 25 yards.