Very first casting try

[KirkD]

Gents, I've got a couple questions. I live up here in the Northern sticks and have no one to actually cast with in order to learn, so it will be 'learn by doing' (the old 4-H motto I learned as a kid). I'll be using a Saeco double cavity mould to cast 500 grain 45-70 bullets for my old Trapdoor. Two questions:

1. I got some 'mould prep'. What do I do with that? Do I smear it all over the mould, or in the two cavities, or just on the mating surfaces of the mould.

2. I imagine I should heat up the mould prior to pouring the first scoop of lead in (melted wheel weights). I'll be using a Coleman stove burner. Should I hold the mould in the flame for a bit before the first cast?

3. How long should I wait in between castings? (i.e., after I drop the first two bullets, do I have to wait, or can I just go to town and pour the lead in as fast as I can drop the previous two bullets?)

As you can see, I know sweet tweet about casting, but I'm planning to cast for all my old guns once I learn how to.

[dubber123]

Where is the Northern sticks, (just in case you live next door). I would skip the mould prep myself, or just use it on the alignment pins. If it is liquid mould prep, it is probably Graphite/alcohol, and will do OK to lube the alignment pins, but some of this stuff gums up vent lines, and causes more problems than it's worth.

Heating the mould is a good idea, just stick it in the flame of the Coleman, and take it out once in a while. When you see smoke start to come off the mould, start casting. Volatile oils start smoking around 450* I believe, and coincidentally, good boolits will start casting at that mould temp in my experience.

There will undoubtably be oil of some kind on this mould, particularly if it is new. If it truly looks devoid of any oil, you can smear about ANY oil on a portion of the OUTSIDE of the blocks to use as a temp indicator when it starts smoking.

Don't wait after dropping the first 2, as the mould is just cooling off. Let the puddle you leave on top get an evenly frosty look before cutting is all. Cutting when it is still shiny will likely get you some lead smeared on the top of the mould. It doesn't take long to "haze" over anyways.

Good luck, and have fun!

[KirkD]

Thanks, dubber. for that info. I live in central Ontario, Canada.

[Buckshot]

...........1st of all, scrub those blocks clean. Hot water with some detergent. When you figure they're clean, do'em again. When cool, if you have any carb cleaner spray the cavities with that too!

Do you have any Bullplate Lube from the Bullshop? If no, check out the links at the bottom of this page and order a bottle. Until you do get some, use a soft lead pencil to coat the underside of the sprueplate and the tops of the blocks. This will help to keep lead from smearing and sticking.

When the lead is up to temp (you have a thermometer?) and fluxed, set the base of the blocks maybe 1/4" into the lead for a 10 count. Wait another 10 count for the heat to migrate and stabilize then pour a slug. If wrinkled and not well filled out your alloy or blocks aren't hot enough. Try rapidly casting 5-8 more slugs and if still bad then your alloy is too cool.

If they're 'trying' to fill out but ain't quite there, you can use a Bic type or Zippo lighter to lightly soot the cavity. Just a haze will do. Try again. If you get good well filled out slugs then continue on. If not, heat up the alloy, then re-heat the mould and start again. BTW, that bit of soot acts like a bit of insulation in helping to keep the heat from sucking into the blocks too fast.

Do you have the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook? If no, you need to get it.

Be sure to let the molten sprue set up before swinging the sprueplate. If the melt temp is right along with the blocks, then after you see it freeze give it about 3 seconds then swing the sprueplate over. Dump the slug and refill. Maintain a tempo. Don't hurry, as that's work.

..............Buckshot

[KirkD]

Thanks, Buckshot. I don't have any casting manuals, but I'm reading through the 'Classics and Stickies'.