How bad does a rifle bore have to be before it won't shoot well?

[tazman]

How bad can a barrel be and still shoot well?
By well I mean 3 inches at 100 yards. I don't expect match grade accuracy from a 100 year old gun without re-barreling it which I am not inclined to do.
Specifically, I am looking at Model 17 Enfield rifles in 30-06.
I am not terribly familiar with older military rifles. I don't want a safe queen. I want a rifle that will shoot well enough to be interesting but don't much care about looks other than I would like it to be in original configuration or nearly so. Dings in the stock or a little rust doesn't bother me as long as it will shoot.
I have looked down the barrels of several rifles lately and bores were black or nearly so. I didn't see pitting but I couldn't really tell much due to the color/dirt/fouling that was in the barrel. Hard to make a decision when you can't see well.
Also, what faults or damage should I look for specifically on these older rifles?
Thanks for any advice and information you have.

[M-Tecs]

While we all want the bore to be as perfect as possible results from the target are all that matter. I have seen rifles that had significant issues yet they still shot very well.

I own a 30/40 Krag that was owned by a very famous early 1900's photographer that has a bore that looks like a rattail file turned inside out yet it shoots sub MOA.

Uneven or damaged throats or muzzles/crowns seem to effect accuracy the most.

[racepres]

I prefer a 1917 that has already been arsenal rebarrelled..look for a JA or HS or??? there may be others IDK on the underside of the barrel near the front ...Not always "better" but, generally they are..

[tazman]

While we all want the bore to be as perfect as possible results from the target are all that matter. I have seen rifles that had significant issues yet they still shot very well.

I own a 30/40 Krag that was owned by a very famous early 1900's photographer that has a bore that looks like a rattail file turned inside out yet it shoots sub MOA.

Uneven or damaged throats or muzzles/crowns seem to effect accuracy the most.

So that sounds like if it isn't badly pitted, it may be fine for my use. Good to know.
It also sounds like I will have to buy one and try it out to find out. Possibly expensive and frustrating given my luck.


I prefer a 1917 that has already been arsenal rebarrelled..look for a JA or HS or??? there may be others IDK on the underside of the barrel near the front ...Not always "better" but, generally they are..

Thanks for posting that. I wasn't aware they did that very much. I also figured those were already snapped up by someone who wanted a shooter and didn't care if the numbers all matched.

[Scharfschuetze]

Emptor caveat Taz.

While some worn barrels may shoot well, the odds are against one shooting as well as a good barrel. I have a Portuguese Mauser with a dark bore that shoots as well as any of my "perfect" bore Mausers; but, and this is the big but, the rifling is still sharp and well defined with no pitting. One really never knows until he tries.

I'm not a gambling man, so I leave the worn and pitted bore rifles on the shelf or the gun show table.

[M-Tecs]

So that sounds like if it isn't badly pitted, it may be fine for my use. Good to know.
It also sounds like I will have to buy one and try it out to find out. Possibly expensive and frustrating given my luck.


My Krag is severely pitted yet it still shoots like a match rifle. It's the best shooting Krag I have fired. When I first looked at it I thought it was unsafe to fire.

I installed a new never installed GI 1903 barrel made in 1944 that shoots terrible but looks great. You never know until you test.

The independent shop's I use will let me test before I purchase. Never hurts to ask.

[racepres]

Thanks for posting that. I wasn't aware they did that very much. I also figured those were already snapped up by someone who wanted a shooter and didn't care if the numbers all matched.
And, I wasn't aware that they Numbered the Barrels..But, Matching numbers is about the Last thing I look at..Just a Bonus for me..So Many "Fake" numbers matching going on out there...it makes me Weary

[LAGS]

With Worn bores, if you hand load, it will take more time to Work Up an accurate load.
But you can get the most out of your rifle by handloading, a lot of testing, to find out what your rifle likes to shoot best, and at what speed.

[opos]

I've messed with "sporterized" 1917's a lot over the years...I don't cut them up any more..not for many years but in the 60's and before they were great rifles to make into "deer rifles". One thing that is pointed out in Hatcher's notebook is the situation with headspace in the 1917's...often the headspace (if measured with "modern" gauges) is pretty loose...I have one right now that will close on a no go (barely) and needs to have the field gauge used to keep the bolt from closing...I think this may be pretty common with them...at any rate it shot ok and no problems with pressure or stretching signs but I got a set of Lee Collet dies in 30-06 and now only load for that rifle with brass shot in that rifle and neck sized with the collet dies...it shoots nice tight groups and the brass is in great condition...I watch all rifle brass for the possible head separation indications (visual and use a dental pick to check the inside of the case) and I've got 5 reloadings with the Lee Collet dies and no indications of any issues at all and it shoots well with medium to upper medium loads with 180 smk bullets.

my 2 cents worth.

[racepres]

I watch all rifle brass for the possible head separation indications (visual and use a dental pick to check the inside of the case) and I've got 5 reloadings with the Lee Collet dies and no indications of any issues at all and it shoots well with medium to upper medium loads with 180 smk bullets.

my 2 cents worth.
Not likely to encounter any "separation" signs, If ya Only Neck size..That is the Reason to neck size, and also why Wildcatters, [and most folks who shoot for groups] neck size only..Once fireformed...you are good to go...

[Smokepole45]

I would never write off a dirty old rifle as inaccurate until I had it good and clean first. Many you will see at gun shows or LGS are very dusty. Some sellers will let you run a patch through before you start serious negotiations. There are a number of good threads here about cleaning gunked up bores. Get it as clean as you can first, then slug the bore before you quit trying. Good Luck!

[swheeler]

I have found that shooting cast bullets will clean a bore up pretty well, especially if cast bullets have a lot of antimony in them. It may take a thousand or two but that's the fun part, shoot-clean, shoot clean, shoot-shoot-shoot.

[country gent]

Get the best "look" into the barrel you can while inspecting it . There are prisim that work okay for this better is a bore scope. Another is the military throat gages and muzzle gages to check for throat wer and muzzles rod damaged from cleaning abuse. These old rifles may take some tender loving care and a little work to find the load but normally can be gotten to shoot decently. A piece of paper inserted into the action and under the muzzle reflects more light into the bore to help see. A tight fitting patch and jag can tell you alot also by how it pushes thru the bore, and the condition of the patch after. I would check headspace with gages, throat and muzzle with appropriate gages, and set solid a good look into the bore, then a patch ran thru the bore. In the end its a guess untill you shoot it and test it. I have a hawkeye bore scope and can see alot but its still a guess untill its shot.

[seppos]

If I remember right in Finish army they did a study about the effects of damaged riffling. The conclution was that the sicnificance of riffling grows as we get closer to the end of the barrel. Dont remember how long should the undamaged part be though..
The Britts had same experiences with they paradox guns that basicly where shotguns with riffled chokes.

S

[JSnover]

How bad can a barrel be and still shoot well?
By well I mean 3 inches at 100 yards. I don't expect match grade accuracy from a 100 year old gun without re-barreling it which I am not inclined to do.
Specifically, I am looking at Model 17 Enfield rifles in 30-06.
I am not terribly familiar with older military rifles.
You're not asking for too much. People tend to look down their nose at 3" groups but for military rifles the spec for acceptance has been 3MOA for about a century or so, though most of them shot much better. Bear in mind these were built as tools for infantrymen, on an assembly line, rebuilt by arsenal 'gun mechanics' and they still shot well enough. Rifles selected for precision shooting were a different story.
If the bore isn't totally wrecked and the crown is ok you'll probably be fine.

[Scharfschuetze]

There are prisim that work okay

I take these GI throat and bore mirrors with me any time I'm looking at a used rifle. It's amazing what you can detect with them. These are inserted into the chamber for a close up look at the throat and initial rifling. I have passed on many a rifle that otherwise looked to be good.

For the other end of the barrel, if you don't have a muzzle wear gauge, then you can also used cast bullets sized to specific diameters to check muzzle wear or cleaning rod damage.

Remember that a damaged crown can usually be fixed, but a damaged or worn throat is a different proposition.

[Shiloh]

Boolit fit has a lot to do with accuracy.

Shiloh

[ascast]

In my experience, the crown is the single most important issue as it controls the separation of bullets from shock tube. Uniform wear is OK, but any rust pits, dings or cleaning rod wear on that line and it may be hopeless. That "line" is the final breaking edge of the barrel insides, be it groove or rifling, and the end of the barrel, be it rounded or flat or what ever. Even damage can be fixed ( maybe) with a re-crown or counterbore, if your willing. Either of these can be done to preserve the original external dimensions. I always carry a hand lens and strong flash light to check that. An over cut or shot out throat, you gotta set back the barrel or seat bullets way out. Unless the rifling is really worn right off or the rust spots are so big they allow "free flight" you can probably get it to shoot 3 inches. You might have to back off the speed a bit.
I try to avoid that stuff anymore.

[skeettx]

Buy it cheap.
Clean the bore as best you can.
Shoot good jacketed ammo first to iron out
the areas of issue,
Clean the bore as best you can.
Shoot good heavy boolits in the gun to compare.
Clean the bore as best you can.
Then you will know what it will do :)
Then shoot the heck out of it.

I shot my P-14 Enfield 45-70 this morning
What fun, what fun

Mike

P.S. remember P-17s are cock on closing

[tdoyka]

You're not asking for too much. People tend to look down their nose at 3" groups but for military rifles the spec for acceptance has been 3MOA for about a century or so, though most of them shot much better. Bear in mind these were built as tools for infantrymen, on an assembly line, rebuilt by arsenal 'gun mechanics' and they still shot well enough. Rifles selected for precision shooting were a different story.
If the bore isn't totally wrecked and the crown is ok you'll probably be fine.

i agree with him.

my 30-40 krag doesn't have a barrel that is pitted but neither does it have a mirror finish. mine has been chopped to 21 and something" and the crown is alright. i've bought a peep sight(redfield) on evilbay and it does roughly 3/4 - 1 1/2" at 100 yards. when it was military rear sight issue, it would go 1 1/2 - 2 1/2" at 100 yards. i would be perfectly happy if my krag could do 3moa. i use it only for hunting deer and once in a while a informal(friends) shoot. if you would go to a real target shoot, i would go with a customed barrel.

i use a 165gr ranch dog with 25.5gr of h4198 and it goes roughly 1800fps(i don't own a chrono).

[opos]

I had several Mosins with sewer pipe bores...really black and gunked up...tried and tried to clean them with little luck..then looked on the Mosin So. Cal site and found that one of the guys had gotten some Smith and Wesson bore cleaning gel (comes in an aerosol can which is wasteful..and in a gel form in a squeeze bottle)...Took the gel and drenched the bore with patches soaked in the gel....took a stainless steel "tornado" brush (the kind that is folded over on itself) and soaked it in gel and began the "process"...put the barrel in a can as it just ran black with gunk...re soaked the bore with gel and let it sit overnight (it will not harm anything...again with the tornado brush and more gel...more gunk every pass...took about 3 days of soak, scrub, patch,etc and the bores came really clean...sharp lands and very little pitting...when done I used lead (not zinc) fishing sinkers and found a .314 bore was pretty common across the rifles....got some .311 and some .313 bullets and found the rifles shot a nice group and the more I shot and cleaned the better things got...I figure I saved some barrels that folks might well have just dumped or not bought and found a great product as well...I use Kano Kroil in much of my hard cleaning...it's great stuff as well.

https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/hoppes-30-caliber-rifle-tornado-brush-10-pack-1251-026285511178case.do

[swheeler]

I had several Mosins with sewer pipe bores...really black and gunked up...tried and tried to clean them with little luck..then looked on the Mosin So. Cal site and found that one of the guys had gotten some Smith and Wesson bore cleaning gel (comes in an aerosol can which is wasteful..and in a gel form in a squeeze bottle)...Took the gel and drenched the bore with patches soaked in the gel....took a stainless steel "tornado" brush (the kind that is folded over on itself) and soaked it in gel and began the "process"...put the barrel in a can as it just ran black with gunk...re soaked the bore with gel and let it sit overnight (it will not harm anything...again with the tornado brush and more gel...more gunk every pass...took about 3 days of soak, scrub, patch,etc and the bores came really clean...sharp lands and very little pitting...when done I used lead (not zinc) fishing sinkers and found a .314 bore was pretty common across the rifles....got some .311 and some .313 bullets and found the rifles shot a nice group and the more I shot and cleaned the better things got...I figure I saved some barrels that folks might well have just dumped or not bought and found a great product as well...I use Kano Kroil in much of my hard cleaning...it's great stuff as well.

https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/hoppes-30-caliber-rifle-tornado-brush-10-pack-1251-026285511178case.do

I think here lies the answer,cast or jacketed.:roll:

[izzyjoe]

I bought an 91 Argentine a few years ago, with a terrible bore. It was a little rusty, but copper fouled bad. I cleaned that rifle for a week, with #9, clp, and some gi bore cleaner, and finally got it somewhat clean, but I never could get it to shoot very good groups. So I wound up trading it off for something else, but now I wish I'd have given it a little more attention, cause I really like it. But if I can buy one cheap enough I'll give it a try, and if they don't work out it makes good trade material.

[Texas by God]

I had two guns that come to mind. A BRNO made K98 and an Astra 1921/400- the bores looked like a black gravel road. With a receiver sight the 8mm would group 2-3" with Portugese FNM ball ammo. The Astra shoots like a target pistol. These two taught me you can't never tell. With that said I would probably think twice before buying unless I could brush out or try before I buy. The US Rifle 1917 is a great rifle and some feel it's the best Mauser interpretation ever. Best, Thomas.

[castalott]

I was wanting to buy a Mosin Nagant 28 but the bore was impossible...Couldn't hardly see rifling.. Cleaning didn't change a thing... The GS had a a range out back and I offered to buy some ball to shoot thru it. With each shot the barrel changed for the better... After 20 shots, the barrel wasn't perfect but amazingly good... A good cleaning then showed a perfectly good( though not perfect) bore...


go figure...

[funnyjim014]

Take off the stock. Make a dummy round to seal the chamber. Fill that sewer pipe full of Kroil oil and let it sit overnight. Scrub and repeat. You will be surprised how may good barrels are filled with gunk and deemed bad. A good indication of copper fowlin is green patches, olt of that can be a pain to remove

[seppos]

In old times the Russians used 10-25% natriumhydroxide solution to clean the rifle bores.. Should not damage the barrel.
Plug the other end and pour the solution in and keep it there over night.
Next day, pour the gunk out and wash the barrel with hot water. After it has dried up, run oil soaked cleaning patches thru the barrel.

S

[6mm win lee]

I got a 1917 from the CMP years ago and it was black as Hilliary Clinton's heart. Scrubed the bejeezus out of the barrel to get most of the crud out of it and then fired a couple of HXP rounds to blow most of the rest. The gun must have been from a Vet organization that did not clean it. The barrel was pitted and looks like heck warmed over but it shoots good. No complaints. It is not match grade but it is tight enough to be minute of groundhog at a hundred yards.

Six

[rosst]

once had the pleasure of sighting in a sporterised No.4 Enfeild for a workmate with the worst bore i have ever seen, there was more pitting than rifling, i kid you not . . ' well this is a complete waste of my time " but man that thing could shoot with the FMJ ammo supplied . . . . for cast i want a brilliant barrel

[Ballistics in Scotland]

There are about as many ways a barrel can be bad, as a human being, and some of them matter much more than others. Simple bore erosion caused by firing is far from the worst. It occurs progressively from the throat, which is the right order, allowing the bore to tighten up on the bullet.

A rifle used for testing cordite, I think the early version with 60% nitroglycerin, is the subject of a detailed gauging record I have in front of me. After 12,000 shots it would admit the .304 pin gauge 4½in. at the muzzle and the .305in. entered 3/16in. At the breech the figures were 19in. and 1⅛in. Even the .309in. gauge entered the bore by ⅜in. more than it did when new.

This is worse erosion than most of us will ever see, let alone inflict. The velocity had fallen by more than 100ft./sec. But the mean deviation on target was 1.45 feet at 500 yards, or a little more than double the dispersion when new. That can't be converted simply to group size, but must be considerably worse than that 3in. at 100 you are looking for. More moderate but easily visible erosion shouldn't be.

Another Lee-Enfield at Woolwich was used to test single based powders, and took a considerably larger number of shots to get into similar condition. With this one it was noticed that accuracy held up pretty well if thin-jacketed, flat based bullets were used, but was much worse with heavily jacketed or boat-tailed ones.

How is cord or rod wear at the muzzle, or excessively energetic removal of atmospheric corrosion, likely to be worse than the above naturally produced version? It is likely to be predominantly on one side.

Pitting is another story, and likely to be less harmful with heavily jacketed bullets, or if you want to use cast, with paper patched ones.

[tazman]

I thank you all for these wonderfully informative replies. This information will seriously help with the purchase I am considering.
This is a great site.
Thanks again
tazman

[Multigunner]

Theres really no telling how a barrel will shoot just by the appearance of the bore, though theres a limit to how bad one can look before I'll even try firing with it.

A total sewer pipe of a Mosin Nagant with barely a trace of rifling grouped like a target rifle when using Hornady .312 bullets, while a near cherry two grove Savage keyholed every shot when using boat tail Mk8 bullets but then grouped consistently sub MOA when using 147gr boat tail bullets pulled from 7.62X54r Soviet ammo and the Hornady .312.

If theres even a trace of rifling left you can find a bullet and load combination that will give useable accuracy, but abadly eroded throat or damaged crown can prevent even strong rifling from doing its job.

I traded off a nice looking Krag carbine long ago without ever firing it after the gapping craters and streamers of Cupro nickel fouling tore the bristles off a bore brush and shredded every patch I tried to put through it.
These days I might try cleaning one like that upp, but wouldn't try firing it unless I aggressively lead lapped the bore to reduce the pitting.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

With that said I would probably think twice before buying unless I could brush out or try before I buy. The US Rifle 1917 is a great rifle and some feel it's the best Mauser interpretation ever. Best, Thomas.

That is easily enough done when someone is selling a rifle, too. It should make us very wary of "should clean up well".

Mechanically the P14 and M1917 Enfields are indeed that good, and the sights were the best on any military rifle for several decades. But it has to be admitted that they are long and heavy. What gunsmiths sometimes do with them, although I disapprove of converting one that isn't already altered or rough, is closer to the intended 1913 .276 cartridge.

[tazman]

Well I found out how bad a barrel can be and still shoot reasonably well. I purchased a Winchester made 1917 Enfield rifle.
When I was looking through the bore at the gun shop, the bore looked reasonably bright and smooth. I could see the rifling no problem.
I took it from the gun shop, directly to the rifle range. I put about 30 rounds through it trying to get it sighted in with no success. It turns out very few of the bullets even hit the target. These were match loads that shoot under .5 at 100 in my other rifle.
When I got home I started cleaning the weapon. This was far and away the dirtiest, most copper fouled rifle I have ever seen. Some one must have coated the bore with toothpaste or something in order to get it to look as good as it did.
I spent several hours Friday and more today trying to get it cleaned out. I finally succeeded this morning. Needless to say the bore was pitted. It has also been rusted. It had tiny pin holes in the bore surface all over the place and was just generally rough.
I decided I might as well try it out and see just how bad I got taken so I took it to the range today with a variety of ammunition.
I started with 150 grain FMJ loads at 25 yards. Not too bad
I moved to 50 yards, still not too bad.
I switched over to 220 grain round nose bullets and there was the key. I started getting 1.5 inch groups dead on point of aim.
I moved to 100 and shot several groups of 3-4 inches with the 220 grain bullets. The 150 grain FMJ averaged about 5 inches at 100yds.
I got out some 168 grain match loads and fired 5 shots at the center of a piece of poster board. I didn't touch it even once. I couldn't believe this.
I moved back to 25 yards to see where the impact point was. Turns out, there wasn't one with the match bullets. The rough barrel was stripping the jackets so badly half the bullets were hitting the target sideways. The others weren't hitting it at all.
I switched back to the 220 bullets and proceeded to shoot the center out of the target so I know the barrel hadn't gotten too dirty or copper fouled.
I didn't realize the match bullets jackets were so thin and fragile that a rough bore would destroy them.
I guess I will stick with the heavy jacketed hunting bullets since those work quite well in this rifle even though I can't believe they do given the pitting in the bore.
It shoots well enough with the 220s that I am satisfied with it's accuracy.
I can always rebarrel it later.

[oscarflytyer]

in 35 yrs and a BUNCH of milsuprs, only ever had one that was trashed. And it was totally gone. I think it was last cpl of inches of bore due to neglect and/or bad cleaning procedures... keyholed jackets at 25 yds and was a wing a prayer and bad bet that a round would find the 18"x18" paper at 50 yds! I recently bought a Savage 340C in 222 Rem that I thought might have the last 1 1/2" of bbl corroded/shot out. Fortunately, after a lot of carbon solvent, pretty little round holes at 100yds - all good.

[dubber123]

Tazman, a little firelapping would likely do wonders. I have an 1894 Swede carbine, one of the little 17" barreled ones, not a M38, that has a dark, fully pitted bore. It has proven hopeless with cast, but after a firelapping shoots full power jacketed loads under 1" at 50 yards.

[Scharfschuetze]

Tazman, a little firelapping would likely do wonders. I have an 1894 Swede carbine, one of the little 17" barreled ones, not a M38, that has a dark, fully pitted bore. It has proven hopeless with cast, but after a firelapping shoots full power jacketed loads under 1" at 50 yards.

I was going to suggest going the same route.

I've used the Wheeler kit for removing tool marks and what not from new barrels. It should smooth out your barrel pretty well and probably cut down on some of the jacket fowling that you are bound to get with that rough barrel. It might even allow you to shoot those match grade bullets out of the rifle.

[kawasakifreak77]

They can be pretty bad & still shoot.I gotta regular ole 91/30 mosin that is nicknamed "the sewer pipe" & for a good reason. Its bore is so rough you can't patch it. It'll just rip up the patch going down the bore. Crazy thing will shoot a consistant 2 moa with yugo heavy ball. Its the darndest thing...Flip side to that is, I just bought a K31 with a mirror bore that will barely hold 4 moa. My other two will easily do 1.5 moa with GP11 & one will do sub moa with my handloads.Never know 'til ya shoot it man.

[JWFilips]

Well I have a J.P. Sauer Und Shon 98 Mauser Bore was trash Throat was out to .330"
Here is the bore and here are the best target I have shot with a downed sized NOE 340 Bullet
184241184242

I find with a worn bore; a long boolit which is sized .002" to .003" larger seems to bring them back to life

[bouncer50]

Funny thing some of the worst bore can shoot better then a good bore. I have two a 98 Mauser and M1 Grand that have Salt & Pepper bores and they shoot great.

[seppos]

Well I have a J.P. Sauer Und Shon 98 Mauser Bore was trash Throat was out to .330"
Here is the bore and here are the best target I have shot with a downed sized NOE 340 Bullet
184241184242

I find with a worn bore; a long boolit which is sized .002" to .003" larger seems to bring them back to life

Did you use aluminium gas checks in them? Where did you bought them?

S

[JWFilips]

Did you use aluminium gas checks in them? Where did you bought them?

S

No; This was a plain base boolit Alloy was 50% COWW/ 50 % Pure
Jim

[swheeler]

Well I have a J.P. Sauer Und Shon 98 Mauser Bore was trash Throat was out to .330"
Here is the bore and here are the best target I have shot with a downed sized NOE 340 Bullet
184241184242

I find with a worn bore; a long boolit which is sized .002" to .003" larger seems to bring them back to life
Yes that barrel looks hammered, worse than many I've seen. The group to the left looks very good for a plain based cast bullet at about 11-1200 fps? was this a 50 yard group? I would like to see you put a couple thousand rounds(pure lino would "lap" it quicker) of the sized down 338 bullets through it and post another picture of bore and target, bet that barrel would look a lot smoother.

[JWFilips]

Yes 50 yards.
BTW that bore was fired lapped a few winters ago using industrial diamond grits starting with 150 grit for 10 shots, 240 for 40 shots, 320 for 40 shots and 400 for 50 shots.
So this photo shows the improved bore :mrgreen: So you may have an idea what it originally looked like. (I didn't have a bore scope back then to get a photo)
That is why it is now .332 cal

[Multigunner]

"That is why it is now .332 cal "

Well that's one way to develop a Wildcat. We can name it the .332 Filips ultra magnum.

[JWFilips]

Well I don't know about that ( especially the magnum part) I like to shoot boolits slow.

Seriously; it is a Nice historic rifle and is covered with a lot of Waffen Marks so I couldn't just up and swap out a new barrel.
Figured if I could get it to shoot better then it did when it was gifted to me I would be happy enough.
Now it is at least enjoyable to shoot from time to time plus it was a learning experience in firelapping

[missionary5155]

Greetings
Have a 1873 Winchester 32-20 with a pitted bore, moon scape throat and interrupted (missing parts) rifling. You would think it was a total wreck fit for the tomato patch.
Have used it for many years (25+) as my primary under 50 yards ground hog rifle. Never shot it at 100 yards. But at 35 yards it will easily hold minute of ground hog. I do use the fattest cast it will chamber (.315+) and a modest load of 4 grains Unique or 17 grains 3F. I was going to re-line this past summer when up north there but yet could not as it will still "thwap" ground hogs at the river bottom ranges I hunt.
Mike in Peru