Going to rotometals tomorrow total noob what to buy.

[Dadswickedammo]

Taking 200lb BRASS the recycler and as it happens rotometals is only a few miles away.
I have about 50lb pure lead going to be casting 308 for 300aac need to get it a bit harder thinking linotype.

[454PB]

Yes, linotype mixed with pure lead in various ratios makes a good casting alloy. I usually use a 50/50 mix, which is about the same as "Hardball".

[popper]

Another 50 pure and super hard. Get some tin if you feel the need.

[Dadswickedammo]

Man do I have questions???
So looking at Roto web site they have antimony pucks but melt at 1100° I guess that's why we buy pre mixed?

[Bullwolf]

Depending on how much pure/soft lead you have, and what you are trying to make:

Super-Hard Alloy 5lb Ingot $18.29
70% Lead
30% Antimony
https://rotometals.com/super-hard-alloy-ingot-30-antimony-70-lead/

or

Linotype Alloy 5lb Ingot $17.99
84% Lead
12% Antimony
4% Tin
https://rotometals.com/linotype-alloy-ingot-4-tin-12-antimony-and-84-lead/

Mix 1 part Linotype, with 1 part pure Lead
to make Hardball, or Taracorp Magnum Alloy
(Used by many commercial boolit casters)

Hardball Alloy is
92% Lead
6% Antimony
2% Tin

The math for Linotype to Hardball is surprisingly simple. Mix at a 50/50 ratio Linotype and Pure Lead to make your own Hardball alloy. An added benefit is that the alloy will have a little Tin in it for better fill out. You can even cut the Linotype down farther by adding more pure lead to it, and still end up with a decent boolit casting alloy.

Or buy a little Pewter, or more expensive Tin.
(Tin is $19 to $20 bucks per lb from Rotometals)
And add a small amount of Tin to your alloy yourself, then buy the Super hard.

The Superhard goes farther, (if you already have Tin) and the Linotype is extremely easy to use.

- Bullwolf

[farmerjim]

Foundry Type Alloy (64.5%-lead, 23% Antimony, 12.5%-tin) (https://rotometals.com/foundry-type-alloy-64-5-lead-23-antimony-12-5-tin/)
I also use this one for mixing. I bought a bunch when it was on sale.

[rancher1913]

keep the pure, pure, and buy the #2 alloy that is already to use. down the road when you get cought up in other projects you will need the pure, trust me.

[OS OK]

^...I second that emotion!

[Dusty Bannister]

I will agree that later on, pure lead will be handy for some applications. But for a person just getting started, lino type seems the easiest way of getting harder bullet alloy. I realize you are paying full price now, but often the S&S section will offer scrap lino in the original used form at decent prices. While it might be a little off grade, it is basically just as easy to use as the new stuff. You will only be blending and not getting into the high heat requirements of making new alloys. 2-6-92 is a decent alloy for many uses, but perhaps a little soft for rifles. I would try quenching some of those bullets to see if they will precip harden and then you do not need an additional blend for the rifle apps. There is usually enough tramp metals in present alloys for that to work. If not, then add some clip on Wheel Weight metal. And if the 2-6-92 is still too hard cut it again with pure lead scrap to make 1-3-96. Some even use it for rifle hunting alloy.

Sometimes a little tin will help with mold fill out, but by starting with Lino, and then adding to your supply with scrap lino and scrap soft lead, you might find that your future casting supplies are not going to be quite as expensive to maintain. Try to keep it simple and clearly mark your blends. You will forget what they are if you do not have a method to keep them identified. Good luck and be safe. Dusty

[runfiverun]

get you 15 lbs of linotype and mix it all together.
that's hard enough.

[RogerDat]

Plus one on Linotype being a good choice of sweetener when starting out.
Commonly available used at better prices in swapping and selling forum so the recipe you work out using Rotometals alloy can be repeated using a less expensive source down the road.
S&S is where I would buy any tin I wanted, whole lot better price in S&S than at Rotometals.

One other thing one can do with Linotype is add 8% tin. This gives you 12% of both tin and antimony. This can in turn be mixed with plain to get a balanced alloy from 2.5/2.5 Sn/Sb good for mild PC and pistol or 5/5 (Lyman #2) alloy or even a bit harder if needed. I'm sort of a fan of Lyman #2 since it works great for rifle and can be cut by weight with plain for pistol.

I should add two things size matters! Bullet fit to bore can make or break accuracy and leading. Trying to go harder with alloy can actually work against you. The pressure of firing causes obturation which is the bullet expanding in diameter from the base being pushed forward faster than the bullet can move so it "squishes" outward and fits more snugly in the bore. Too hard and you get no obturation, which can reduce accuracy or increase leading.

Don't assume what you have is "plain" or pure unless it tests as dead soft or you know it was all melted from a specific source or you had it tested. In an ingot not much distinguishes COWW lead from dead soft plain but one can tell the difference when making bullets from them.

[acoop101]

Get as much of this as you can afford and get to casting but keep your pure lead pure.

https://rotometals.com/hardball-bullet-casting-alloy-ingot-2-tin-6-antimony-and-92-lead/

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