Procedure for 1st time casting pot start up.?

[LAKEMASTER]

i just received a new pot and new from LEE for my pro420 pot...

tonight will be the first trial run with the updated valve system and pot itsself.

sp, i was looking on here and wondering if anyone had a "new" pot "seasoning" type procedure for their furnace ? i didnt find anything with the search tool so im asking here...



my used lee pot/valve assembly was trashed from the PO using it to melt dirty lead for his fishing weights... the valve system was literally flopping around and the adjustment screws didnt touch anymore...

my new valve is simple and tight. nearly fail proof.

[g17]

I just threw some ingots in mine and set the dial to just under 7 and let it heat for 20-30 minutes with mold sitting on rim, tossed a handful of dry sawdust on the melt, let it char some, stirred and began casting. Very simple process.

[Bob in St. Louis]

That's what I did, just put some clean lead in there and get started, you'll be fine.

[Loudy13]

Fill er up melt and pour, that's what I did with mine. Oh I did turn it upside down to clean the packing dust out of it.

[robg]

Just do it ,if some boolits are poor chuck them back in the pot and redo .personally I find I cast better with 2 or 3 molds used alternately gives time for sprues to cool and still go as fast as I want .

[OS OK]

This is just me and there's no written instructions to back my take on the casting pot...but...I use pre-blended clean Pb that comes from the smelt pot or say RotoMetals.
I don't flux in the cast pot with anything but paraffin or the like because I do not want the charcoal to eventually migrate down in the valve and that will start the leaks and constant attention to keeping it clear.
When the Pb is melted put a temp. probe in it and turn the dial down to 2-4 or thereabouts to maintain the desired temp. Temps. don't respond immediately, they continue to rise a bit and then fall to the new setting where it will fall below the dial heat setting and begin to rise again...unless you control it with a PID, don't have one, can't testify to that great little control.
Keeping a constant desired temp. requires me to pay attention to the thermometer and staying ahead of the rise and fall and of course as the pot empties it responds to the heater element more quickly...it's a chase game and comes second nature anymore, I don't have to think about it...just keep an eye on it and do it.

[runfiverun]

yep ^^^^
but I also don't break rifle barrels in either.

[Strtspdlx]

This is just me and there's no written instructions to back my take on the casting pot...but...I use pre-blended clean Pb that comes from the smelt pot or say RotoMetals.
I don't flux in the cast pot with anything but paraffin or the like because I do not want the charcoal to eventually migrate down in the valve and that will start the leaks and constant attention to keeping it clear.
When the Pb is melted put a temp. probe in it and turn the dial down to 2-4 or thereabouts to maintain the desired temp. Temps. don't respond immediately, they continue to rise a bit and then fall to the new setting where it will fall below the dial heat setting and begin to rise again...unless you control it with a PID, don't have one, can't testify to that great little control.
Keeping a constant desired temp. requires me to pay attention to the thermometer and staying ahead of the rise and fall and of course as the pot empties it responds to the heater element more quickly...it's a chase game and comes second nature anymore, I don't have to think about it...just keep an eye on it and do it.



i don't know how you guys do it with a thermometer. I tried it and couldn't get my focus off the alloy temp. I ended up with a pile of junk castings and an aggravated dvom battery

[OS OK]

I don't try to read the thermometer in small degree increments, instead it's easier to see when the dial is changing in 25* increments, that represents a lot of movement in the dial itself. In this way I don't change my focus and read it at a glance.
If you try to control the temp. very closely without an automated PID control it will drive you crazy and because of the delayed temp. swings you only make it worse. Lower the temp. control 25* or so before it gets to the desired high temp. Kick it up a bit before it gets to within 25* of your low side. And like I said, as the pot lowers all this will happen quicker and quicker.
Generally in 20# of Pb I'll make maybe 3 adjustments and then refill and start over with the high setting or unplug the pot and start processing the new boolits.
I change the knob before it gets to where I know it will eventually turn around.

I'll put sprue cuts back in every time I need to step away for a stretch or whatever depending on whether I'm dealing with the 6 gang cuts or the single or double cuts. With the 6 gang cuts that Pb volume mounts up quick. I'll cycle it back in and enjoy several 5 minute breaks in a 20# pot...I'm in no hurry and each time I'll throw in a pea sized chunk of paraffin too.
As long as I don't wait too long and try to put too much Pb back in at one time the temp. adjustment can stay put and life is easier when you don't monkey with that too much.

Are you confused now? I am! ...:bigsmyl2:

[runfiverun]

I put my sprue cuts directly back in the pot that way they go in while still hot and the alloy temp isn't affected as much.
I also pre-heat an ingot on the top of the pot before placing it in the alloy.
I made 1/2" thick steel covers for my pots.
this adds more mass to the little 10&20 lb pots which helps keep the temp more consistent.
pre-heating the lead speeds up the alloy's recovery time.

I normally do my long run casting with one of the 40 lb pots and do the same thing there with the steel top.
it also gives me a place to sit my mold for pre-warming without having to use a separate heat element.

[Glassman66]

i just received a new pot and new from LEE for my pro420 pot...

tonight will be the first trial run with the updated valve system and pot itsself.

sp, i was looking on here and wondering if anyone had a "new" pot "seasoning" type procedure for their furnace ? i didnt find anything with the search tool so im asking here...



my used lee pot/valve assembly was trashed from the PO using it to melt dirty lead for his fishing weights... the valve system was literally flopping around and the adjustment screws didnt touch anymore...

my new valve is simple and tight. nearly fail proof.


If interested in selling your old pot, shoot me a PM.


Thanks, Randy

[Jal5]

Can we see a pic of your steel pot covers runfiverun? A great idea.

[AlaskaScott]

Good info!

[LAKEMASTER]

If interested in selling your old pot, shoot me a PM.


Thanks, Randy

I updated/repaired my old pot. i didnt buy a new one.