38 special lee loader.

[Overalls87]

Should I be using case lube when sizing these cases in this lee loader? Another question is the resizing die carbide like in traditional die sets?

[Char-Gar]

Should I be using case lube when sizing these cases in this lee loader? Another question is the resizing die carbide like in traditional die sets?

I have never used a Lee Loader, but I would think the cases needed to be lubed. The 38 Special traditional dies, made in the last 20 years or so come with a carbide die as standard.

[Blanket]

yes lube is needed

[TNsailorman]

I started out using Lee reloader sets in the early 60's. I did not use lube the first few years and then it dawned on me that I was sizing a case in a steel die and metal on metal contact was not good without lubing. I then started lubing my case with a very light film of Imperial wax and have been using it ever since on both Lee Reloader sets and regular press style dies. Works like a charm and easily wiped off with an old towel. My experience anyway. james

[BrassMagnet]

No carbide sizer in the Lee Loader.
Imperial Sizing wax is my favorite. When I walk into a store that has it, it all leaves with me.

[max it]

hi, I have never lubed pistol cases. dies are carbide. check that. it doesn't matter what machine used.
interesting idea but to what end? seven or so years of reloading and never a seized case.
p.s. I have a seized case removal tool.
good luck, Max

[Green Frog]

hi, I have never lubed pistol cases. dies are carbide. check that. it doesn't matter what machine used.
interesting idea but to what end? seven or so years of reloading and never a seized case.
p.s. I have a seized case removal tool.
good luck, Max

Max, this is the hand tool forum... the OP was not asking about dies on a machine, rather the Lee Loader which uses no press. AFAIK, there were never Lee Loader sets with carbide dies. Slight amount of lube is highly advisable for best results.

Froggie

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I started with one of these in 1966! At the time the instructions said to lube the cases using paraffin mixed with a little motor oil. The idea was to melt the paraffin, stir in a little oil, let it harden, then rub chunks of the paraffin against the outside walls of the case. Today I'd used the Lee Resizing Lubricant that comes in the white plastic tube and just rub a bit on with the fingers. Wipe it off with a clean dry cloth before shooting. The Lee Loader die is not carbide, and you'll notice a real difference if you haven't been lubing the cases.

[mdi]

I too started with a Lee Loader , back in '69, and I pounded out good, safe, accurate ammo for over a year. I've seen a few threads/questions on some forums lately so I dug out my 38 Special Lee Loader yesterday. I have about 3k cases of mixed 38 so I grabbed a handful, laid out my components; I have some 700x and 125 gr. lead RNFP and CCI 500 primers and turned on the CD with some '60s Doo Wop. I grabbed a leather mallet (about 16 oz.) and started decapping. It took mebbe 8-10 rounds to get my "system" down and fine tuned.

With regards to the OP's question I used a very light film of Mink Oil Boot Dressing as a lube on the brass and the different was immediately evident; three or four whacks to get an unlubed case sized, but one good whack to size a lubed case. My lube isn't messy and just a very little is needed and easily wiped of my fingers and completer rounds. I used a lead ingot 4"x10"x2"as an anvil.

Didn't time myself, but I pounded out 30 or so rounds in about an hour with my modified system; after seating a primer, I leave the case in the decapping base and flare the case mouth. Then I weighed a charge (dip and dribble) and used a funnel to charge the case. I then seat a bullet on the case mouth, return the die body over the case and seat the bullet, followed by a crimp.

Yes, using my turret press, hand indexed, my bench primer and micro adjusted powder measure assembling 30 rounds is much faster, but no more satisfying! [smilie=w:

[RogerDat]

I started with one of these in 1966! At the time the instructions said to lube the cases using paraffin mixed with a little motor oil. The idea was to melt the paraffin, stir in a little oil, let it harden, then rub chunks of the paraffin against the outside walls of the case. Today I'd used the Lee Resizing Lubricant that comes in the white plastic tube and just rub a bit on with the fingers. Wipe it off with a clean dry cloth before shooting. The Lee Loader die is not carbide, and you'll notice a real difference if you haven't been lubing the cases.

Directions call for lube, it makes a lot of positive difference.
I also use the Lee case lube in the white tube. I prep cases in batches of 10 - 50 then run them through the operational steps. Wear those blue nitrile gloves, little dab of lube on finger, spin case against it with finger scraping any excess back off. I use two reloading blocks so I can move cases from side to side to complete an operation, some do complete round before starting next one. Will say the turret press is faster but the Lee Loader (wack-a-mole) kit will fit in my shirt pocket and a plastic mallet don't weigh much. Can always use to seat and crimp at the range for load development. I would say bug out bag but me I bug out I'm taking the finished ammo not components. Components I'll stash :-)

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Back in my Lee Loader days the only way that it made sense to me was to "batch load". In other words, I'd usually do 200 at a time and perform each step 200 times before moving on to the next step. De-prime 200, size 200, prime 200, charge 200, seat the bullet in 200, crimp 200 if necessary. Like I said earlier, I used their suggestion for a paraffin-oil lube, but the Lee Resizing Lubricant is so easy to use. I should probably follow Roger's example and use gloves, but I've always just used bare fingers. It just takes a tiny amount, and I only apply it on about 2/3 of the case surface, perhaps only 1/2 of the surface part of the time, because a bit stays in the die and the lubed cases never enter the die exactly the same way, so less than a complete coverage is still very adequate. Also, the lube doesn't have to be wet when the case is resized, you can lube them all and if it dries it works just as well. Like previously stated though, my Lee Loader days mostly ended years ago; but that's still the system (batch loading) that I used on my single stage bench mounted presses. I also use two or more loading blocks, and another advantage to the system is that when the cases have been charged, before moving on to the bullet seating, it's really easy to observe the level of the charges in the cases to avoid a double charge. Keep a flashlight handy to assist as necessary.

[RogerDat]

I'm trying to drop my lead level by next blood test, not high but at 10 need it to start heading in an improved direction if nothing else to reassure dear wife that my being cranky and forgetful is not lead related. Makes me a bit over cautious so I currently wear the gloves whenever I load. I think exposure was from primer dust in range brass, and vibrating cleaner media but... for now I need to see how far down I can drive it.

I have a wood bar type stool that I re-worked as a cobblers table for using the Lee Loaders. Dang I'm thinking maybe I'll dig one out and let the grandkids make a few when they are over for the holidays. Nothing says peace on earth like whacking together some 38 special rounds with family. Just for the record only one grandkid doesn't have a drivers license.

[Kosh75287]

ROGERDAT, you might help lower your serum lead levels by taking an iron supplement. If memory serves, they compete for many of the same binding sites, but they preferentially bind with iron over lead. Ferrous gluconate is probably the most trouble-free.

[gwpercle]

Carbide sizing die - No.
Case lube _ Yes.
A 38 Special Lee Loader got a lot of us started, $9.99 then. Along with a Lee single cavity mould and you were in business.
Its actually a great way to learn how its done, I used one for years. Get a powder scale and use it to make your own powder scoops. You only get one with the set , by making your own scoop you can use any powder you want. Batch loading is the proper way with the Lee Loader or any single stage press for that matter...at least for me.
Good luck and load safe,
Gary

[SteelHorseCowboy]

Lube 'em for sure. Have you tried using it yet? I use it for my 44mag. Try to hammer just a couple in without lube, and you'll start lubing quick, fast, and in a hurry.

All these case lubes out there that so many people swear by. I have a big cookie sheet and this stuff called "Pen-a-Lube". I line the cookie sheet with paper towels, soak them liberally, and roll the cases around on it. Works great.

Don't think that the reason I'm peaceful is because I've forgotten how to be violent.

[Kosh75287]

I used 3-in-1 + candle wax for case lubricant, and MY Lee Loaders cost $11.99 (back when dirt was only middle-aged). Depending of the volume of the desired powder charge, one may find that fired cartridge cases will work for a scoop. A bit of epoxy or soldering attaches the handle.

[RogerDat]

More than one reloader has mentioned that an empty case makes a good powder scoop because you can grind or file the case down to exact size you need for a specific load of a specific powder. Lee also makes a $12 set of 17 or 15 scoops and a calculator card to convert scoop capacity into grains for a bunch of powders.

[TNsailorman]

I guess I am showing my age with this but who cares. I bought my first Lee Loader in 1963 and paid all of $3.95 or $4.95 plus .50 to .75 shipping from an outfit called Maryland Arms. It was in 30-06. Lee was more affordable to me back then. Those were the days.

[prestonj12]

I still have several! .357 and 9mm at least, and maybe a couple more. Haven't used them since the early 80s. Got a single stage and stopped using them. In a drawer somewhere for the kids to worry about when I go.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Texas by God]

More than one reloader has mentioned that an empty case makes a good powder scoop because you can grind or file the case down to exact size you need for a specific load of a specific powder. Lee also makes a $12 set of 17 or 15 scoops and a calculator card to convert scoop capacity into grains for a bunch of powders.
The scoop set belongs in every reloading room. And lubing cases for a Lee Loader say what??? That explains a lot..... Best, Thomas.

[FSR]

I am teaching a friend and his son to reload using one in .45 auto and 7.62 by 54.

[44magLeo]

The Lee Loader only neck sizes, even on straight wall cases. So you only need to lube the necks on shouldered cases and only as deep as the boolit seats on straight wall cases.
I have one for my 357/38's and 223 Rem. I have a Lyman 310 for 44 Mag and one on the way for 30-06.
Want to get others for the 7.62x54R, 7 mm Mauser, 280 Rem. Either the 310 tools or Lee Loaders.
Leo

[Gew]

My 30 carbine and 44 mag lee loaders full length size. Must use lube.

[44magLeo]

I have been thinking, The Lyman 310 tool only neck sizes the straight wall cases not the Lee. Sorry about my mistake earlier.
Leo

[Dave Bulla]

The standard Lee loader kids ARE neck size only. There are however a couple other versions that did full length sizing. These were the "unitized loader" and I think maybe the "improved loader". For sure the unitized kit does. Also, there a couple calibers that I believe are sort of in between. The 30 carbine and 44 mag are two of those. The instructions on those usually say "additional force may be required" but they don't quite full length size. I have one for 32-20 that does. It's from a "unitized" kit

In my experience, most calibers do not require lube if the brass is nicely cleaned but the truth is, it does no harm and can make easy to size cases even easier. Makes things work smoooooth. Why not use it if it's handy?