Crimping die value

[bbogue1]

In reloading for handguns is the crimping die necessary? I've noticed several die sets that do not have the crimp die. When loading jacketed bullets is it probably is not necessary but when loading cast bullets I can see it is. Am I correct?

[ShooterAZ]

"Most" pistol seating dies are designed to roll crimp. I have a few four die sets that seat and taper crimp in a separate operation. In general, yes a crimping die is necessary to remove the "bell" on the case that we apply to seat the boolits easier. Seating and crimping in separate steps is generally preferred for best accuracy. Welcome to the forum!

[MT Chambers]

It's a sorry set of dies if it doesn't have a roll crimp on the seating die.

[fred2892]

I believe new production Lee seating dies no longer have a crimp machined into the die.

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[dragon813gt]

I believe new production Lee seating dies no longer have a crimp machined into the die.

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Only their dead length seaters. Their pistol dies all have the proper crimp. Taper for autos and roll for revolvers.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

my 7.62X39 lee set (new) doesn't have a crimping edge in the seating die, but it came with a f.c.d. I thought it was a mess up

[dragon813gt]

Lee clearly tells you what dies are in their sets and what they do.

[Wayne Smith]

For revolvers the crimp is to keep the boolits in the other cylinders from moving foreward in recoil and locking up the action. Yes, it is necessary unless you are shooting a 32 S&W! In autos the crimp is necessary to keep the boolit from backing up in the case while in the mag and reducing the expansion area and increasing pressure.

[Soundguy]

In reloading for handguns is the crimping die necessary? I've noticed several die sets that do not have the crimp die. When loading jacketed bullets is it probably is not necessary but when loading cast bullets I can see it is. Am I correct?

As the others have said, Yes, it is needed.

My advice? Go back and re-read your reloading manual. You have clearly overlooked some of the very valuable information that you will need to make good and SAFE loads.

Remember.. the hand or face you save may be your own, and the people next to you at the range would greatly appreciate it if you didn't blow up next to them while shooting.

[John Boy]

Revolvers: Case crimp is not mandatory and bell curve reduced ...as they chamber normally in the cylinder
Semiauto handguns: Case crimp is mandatory and bell curve reduced... otherwise reloads hang up when chambering and bullet will be pushed down into the case when the bolt hits the base putting the round into the chamber. Degree of crimp - run your finger down the case from the nose, there should be NO ridge at the case mouth
Single Shot Rifles: Not mandatory
Lever - bolt - pumps - semi's - Is Mandatory ... unless chambered as a single shot

[Soundguy]

revolver, no crimp mandatory? Guess you'v e never shot magnum loads ... bullet creep can lock a revolver fast.

[Moonie]

I much prefer to seat and crimp in separate operations.

[Taterhead]

Yes. Crimp dies for handgun loads are necessary. Usually seating and crimping are a combined die. My preference is to setup the die to seat and crimpnin separate operations. I get a second crimp die so that i can seat in station 4 of the press and crimp in station 5. Seating and crimping can be combined in one step (probably the trickiest and most misunderstood die setup) with decent results if using jacketed bullets, but not optimal. Cast and plated bullets do best with separating the operations.

The case mouth will have been flaired to facilitate bullet seating. At the very least, that flair will need to be straightened. Auto loading ammo is taper crimped. For me that means just enough to remove the flair. For 38, a roll crimp die is used to remove the flair and to give a slight roll crimp into the crimp groove.

The Speer #14 manual has a great section on how to reload, in general, and how to load pistol ammo specifically. I highly recommend getting a manual or two and reading and re-reading.

[Eddie Southgate]

Yes you need a crimp die .

[Wayne Smith]

Yes you need a crimp die .

Actually, yes, you need a crimp. A separate crimp die is a choice, and a good one. I prefer to adjust one thing at a time, but learning to use a combination seat/crimp die isn't hard, just tricky to get it right.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

There is VERY seldom a real reason to buy or use a 4th (crimping) die with straight wall cases be they revolver or something like a 45/70.

The key is proper adjustment of the third die of the typical 3 die set.

Such sets have been used for many years and millions upon millions of rounds of quality ammo, way before lee ever showed up claiming that their Factory Crimp Die was/is needed to produce good hand loads.

The key is simply, PROPER ADJUSTMENT, and nothing more. No secret and no magic. Just proper adjustment.

I have personally loaded handgun ammo, both revolver and semi-auto for years and only one time was a lee die in anyway helpful and that was for a friends semi.

But with cast bullet, the lee FCD with the carbide ring in the die mouth is just as likely to cause problems one of which is creating an undersized bullet which in turn is a recipe for poor accuracy and barrel leading.

Follow directions, this is not rocket science, as per proper die adjustment and a three die set is, almost 100% of the time, plenty.

The only dies which might give a bit of head scratching as per set up adjustment are the Hornady taper crimp seating/crimping die (mine is for a 40 S&W). For setting up this die, you need to carefully follow the printed instructions as it is a multi step process.

However, those dies work great and as with the typical roll crimp seating/crimping die they preform as intended and do not need a 4th die.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot