Advice for a new reloader in MN?

[WGD118]

Having recently picked up a Marlin 1895 in good old 45-70 due to a clearance sale at the local Walmart. I have finally decided to stop wavering for years on reloading and step into this arena head long. I would love to be able to shoot the 1895 without concern for the ammo price and with factory rounds costing $1.5 or more a round and funds a little tight. I plan on starting with 45-70 and hopefully expanding into the more calibers as time goes on.

So while I still have a lot of sticky's left to read on this forum and I am working my way through the 180 pages of cast bullet guide for handgunners just to gain some additional knowledge. My first goal is to obtain a good stock of scrap lead before summer. My plan is to pickup a cast iron pot and propane stove during the summer garage sale season along with a toaster oven for powder coating. So I looking for any advice members in the MN area may have for me.

I know no one wants to give up there source or supply of lead but this is my first roadblock. My original plan was to hit up local tire shops for WW like the forums and many different videos talk about but upon doing further research I saw that MN had banned the use of lead in WW at the beginning of 2016 this leads me to believe that I will most likely find iron and zinc instead of lead provided any shops would even give/sell to me. Is that my only option other then buying ingots straight out or do recycling centers in the Twin Cities have cheap scrap lead? Hoping you guys have some wisdom on places I can start hunting for lead.

Thank you

P.S. Sorry if this is the wrong forum I couldn't find any section broken down by state.

[Kosh75287]

I'm in Texas and know almost nothing about MN, but there are metallurgical firms in numerous places that will ship Lead:Tin:Antimony alloys expressly FOR bullet casting to you, in almost any mix you wish. Starting out, this may be the way to go, until you get the finer points of casting fully mastered. Older houses being torn down may have flashings around the toilet (where the toilet's "exit" makes contact with outgoing pipe. A ventilation pipe, which breaks the "vacuum" built up whenever the toilet is flushed, is often plumbed upward, so it will open up just above the roof line. This is another place where I have found such flashings. They are almost pure lead, so expect to add a little extra tin for proper "fill out" in the mould, when casting. You might also ask some plumbers where they take their found lead to sell it. Wherever it is, they'd probably be happy to turn around and sell it to you.

[Oily]

Check with your metal recycling places they might have isotope lead that is used to shield radioactive isotopes for hospitals and cancer centers. Super clean lead and is 96/3/1 mix perfect for casting.Only problem is it is in 31# canister type form but great lead alloy.

[Bama]

A good source for about any alloy you need is Rotometals at top of page. They often have sales and free shipping

[Greg S]

Or right here in our own Buy, Sell & Trade Section.

[.455 Webley]

Lots and lots of lead WW still available in MN. Ask around at smaller tire shops and they will be happy to work with you. Don't hold out much hope for the larger chain type places. Where about in MN are you?

[Kskybroom]

Where are you in MN....

[William Yanda]

Don't give up on wheel weights. Since the ban began Jan '16, it's effects are minimal. The earlier ban in other jurisdictions will have more effect. That is, the industry as a whole switching away from lead. Lead is where you find it. Good luck on your search. I found a turkey fryer, burner and stand, for $8, to replace a side burner I had modified. Venders here are also a good source and you can check their feedback.

[GhostHawk]

I am across the river in North Dakota. I did have a small stash of wheel weights but I used them up long ago. I have been using almost exclusively range scrap bought here. 65 lbs for 70 to 75$.

Hang in there, keep looking, but get ready to buy a box so you have something to work with.
I would suggest plumbing companys as they are still pulling lead pipe from the ground. Offer a bit more than their scrap dealer pays.

[Loudy13]

I am in central MN and there are still wheelweights available, you may get more and more Zinc/steel but I think it is still worth it to hit up the small tire/garage shops. I had a full bucket last month and it was about 60% useable WW's. Range lead is another option, I have a deal with a range that's on my way to work, I mine it and keep half free of charge the owner gets the other half.

[OS OK]

You could prolly use a free library that explains everything under the sun about our hobby...

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

Do you have any old junkyards where they have spread the old cars out on acres of land...those old cars have wheel weights on them and an afternoon in a place like that might give you a big supply and cheap. Down in Texas where I grew up those junkyards were everywhere.

[runfiverun]

I usually call the scrap yards [actually i have the wife call]
just ask if they sell lead and what they have.

[georgerc]

a note on the equipment, it may seem overwhelming when you look at what other people are doing, keep in mind they have been at it for a while and accumulated this stuff over time, you don't need all that stuff before you cast your first boolit, I'm no expert by any stretch, but here's my story:

at some point Cabelas had a 10% off, free shipping and the Lee 10 lbs bottom pour was on sale, so I added it to my order,

some time after that was out in the country, stopped at a tire shop, they only had a half bucket, $20 and it was mine, yelded about 40lbs WW

than I went nuts and ordered a bunch of molds, again an internet special.

I melted the ww right into the 10 lbs bottom pour lee, fluxed it one load at a time and cast right from it.

you can get by with a lot less

[OS OK]

[[georgerc...you can get by with a lot less]]

I am starting to think that I'm trying to coach a 'minimalist' here, (from your other thread)...what I tell you will not work in that frame of mind. You can't take instructions for a particular operation and continually trim them to suit your ideas and expect success, not to mention other procedures in methodology.

You need a new set of rules and operations to follow that other minimalist have worked out for you...this is outside of normal ways of doing things. What I'm trying to tell you is to help you try to manufacture the best ammo possible and tailored to each weapon you intend it for, full house loads.

For example if you reduce your raw lead trying to refine it in that 10 lb. pot, eventually you will get the bottom pour spout clogged up and have to start work on clearing and cleaning that. If that is a dip pot without bottom pour then it too is actually too small to do the job right and in a timely fashion especially if you intend to blend your Pb's and increase BHN or improve fill-out with precise portions of added Sn. I'm not saying that it's impossible, I'm just not thinking along those lines.

Like I said a minute ago, you need to start a new thread with your full intentions stated right up front.

[country gent]

Your plan is a good way to start out and some of us still cast like that. A bigger pot over a burner. Several hints or points. Buy a good ladle for casting, Lyman, and RCBS are good, Rowel is real nice but bigger than most want to handle for casting. Forget the Lee "spoon" as a skimmer or fluxing tool its fine as a ladle it dosnt hold enough and dosnt pour consistant. THe lyman and RCBS ladles hold about 3-4 ounces of alloy. The rowel #1 holds around 1 LB of alloy. I wish rowel made a #1/2. As to pots a cast iron bean pot or stew pot with the rounded bottom is easier to ladle out of than the flat bottomed dutch ovens. You do need to make a stand ring for these to be solid though. Tables can be made from wood or walmarts has aluminum folding camp tables cheap that work good To set beside the stand and pot. As to acyual moulds for your rifle something in the 400-450 grn range should do nicely. Look at NOE, Accurate, Lyman, RCBS, Buffalo arms, Old West, and Lee. Buffalo Arms sells cast steel lead pots in various sizes pretty reasonable also. Casting these bigger bullets a 10lb pot dosent go very far. Ive quit scavanging lead and just buy the alloy I need from roto metals or Buffalo Arms.

[WGD118]

Thanks for the advice so far everyone, for those of you asking I updated by bio with my location, as far as equipment I plan on starting with a lee 20lb bottom pour pot and a lee classic turret press, right now I am holding off on picking either up until I get some raw lead.

Do you guys get a better response calling tire shops to see if they will give you any WW or showing up in person with cash and a bucket?

OS_OK:

To add quickly I do not intend on melting scrap lead in the lee pot, only ingots which I have cast from refined scrap using the method in my first post.

[Yodogsandman]

Good start! I started with a Coleman gas stove and a #10 lb cast iron pot for smelting. Did a short stint with a 7" fry pan, man was that tippy with a lead load! Moved up to a #25 plumbers pot and a propane camp stove. I must have smelted a ton of lead in that plumbers pot! A SS cook pot will work, though. Just one ingot mold until recently too, a Lyman. A good ladle will be a good investment. Something that holds at least a pound of lead is great, a regular steel ladle can be used but beware of the riveted ones. Get a welded one. A long handled spoon will work for skimming off any dross or a Lee ladle.

I find all sorts of things at yard sales for casting. Pewter, roll solder, cast iron pots, a casting ladle, propane turkey fryer, a home made propane rocket furnace, cast iron corn bread pans for ingot molds, all for little money.

Found all sorts of kitchen stuff to cook my own lubes, too. Like spoons, ladles, measuring cups and spoons, double boilers, crock pot, cake pans, anything you need can be found at yard sales, garage sales or estate sales.

For heat treating or powder coating, a convection toaster oven (yard sale $5).

For pre heating molds or ingots, a solid top hot plate (yard sale $2).

You're better off going to the smaller mom and pop tire shops for wheel weights. More personal when making connections. We have a problem around here with scrappers and it makes it tough for us. The scrappers want the lead for free or small cost and then turn around and make money at the scrap yards or selling it to casters. That ticks off the shops! When you do make a contact, treat them good with donuts or hot/cold drinks.

You have a good plan....get lead first while looking around for other needed items.

[RogerDat]

Thanks for the advice so far everyone, for those of you asking I updated by bio with my location, as far as equipment I plan on starting with a lee 20lb pot and a lee classic turret press, right now I am holding off on picking either up until I get some raw lead.


Do you guys get a better response calling tire to see if they will give you any WW or showing up in person with cash and a bucket?

Showing up with a bucket! And a bathroom scale! Find out what the local scrap yard will PAY for pound of WW's add a nickel to that. Then when you offer to buy the WW's you can say I'll pay xx cents which is 5 cents more than the scrap dealer will. Some folks just need an excuse to sell to you, beating the price is a good excuse. Only going to cost you an additional $5 on a 100# bucket, and will still be cheaper than the scrap yard SELLS them to you for.

Just get started with the casting and reloading fun part. Worry about becoming a lead baron later.
Buy the lead from swapping and selling forum here, or post in wanted to buy. Keep looking for a local source but don't let that become a road block. Plus you skip the whole hassle of getting a good alloy from assorted scrap, and buying equipment to melt dirty, nasty scrap in, because you don't want that in your bullet casting pot that is for sure.

Really I would start with the electric melting pot, a mold, the Lee Turret press, set of Lee reloading dies, the Lee Quick trim (delux) and a 45/70 trim die. Sizing die appropriate to your bore size.

I use a ladle (Lyaman little dipper) to cast and like it, never drips, doesn't leak and I can fill a multi cavity mold without any problem. For more production get a bottom pour the Lee are inexpensive, some pricey ones are better - do some research or ask around, trust me folks will give you all the opinions you could want. Frankly I like the Lee 20# pot as a good value for ladle casting. A Lee bullet mold for $20 is hard to beat for one of their 45/70 molds. You will need something to prime with, I use a Lee safety prime on the press but there are a lot of options for seating primers, worthy of own thread. Again trust me you will get opinions in bunches on primer equipment.

You need a scale - I would ask in wanted to buy, lot of folks have extra, or older ones from before they upgraded to a better one. You can use Lee scoops set or the one in the die set to get started but eventually a scale is a must.

With that stuff to purchase to reload having to also acquire a big burner, heavy pot, skimmer, big ladle, some sort of ingot molds and then find the lead to feed into that seems like something you can skip and come back to. You might even consider buying your first batch of lead bullets, you will still save money on the ammo by loading yourself and benefit from starting with known good materials.

One of those solid top hot plates of 1000 watts (not 750) and a stainless steel pot will work for a casting pot, you probably will benefit from having a hot plate to pre-heat your mold on, a 750 watt will work for that but is too slow for melting and casting, makes a big difference in how easily you get good bullets if you can heat your mold on a hot plate.

[W.R.Buchanan]

My advice from CA is for you to bundle up and try to stay warm this winter. Melting lead will help keep you warm.

Isn't it snowing there today and about -20 degrees?

It got down to 60F here yesterday.

Randy

[Thumbcocker]

If you could hook up with a caster near you for an afternoon and watch them do it and maybe get some hands on experience it would be worth a lot of reading.

[WGD118]

My advice from CA is for you to bundle up and try to stay warm this winter. Melting lead will help keep you warm.

Isn't it snowing there today and about -20 degrees?

It got down to 60F here yesterday.

Randy

Just rub it in :) while it may not get above the double digits till Friday when we get another six inches of snow and real feel is in the negative digits. Also no snow today but we didn't get six inches over the weekend. I will still take my cold weather and slightly less liberal state over the disgusting mess of constitutional rights you have to put up with in CA. [smilie=1:

You are a brave man to stay but someone has to be the voice of reason. :Fire:

[OS OK]

My advice from CA is for you to bundle up and try to stay warm this winter. Melting lead will help keep you warm.

Isn't it snowing there today and about -20 degrees?

It got down to 60F here yesterday.

Randy

Thats what I was thinking when I first read his post...last night I think it got down to +58*F...I thought I might perish in the wee hours!

:bigsmyl2:

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

SNIP...

I know no one wants to give up there source or supply of lead but this is my first roadblock. My original plan was to hit up local tire shops for WW like the forums and many different videos talk about but upon doing further research I saw that MN had banned the use of lead in WW at the beginning of 2016 this leads me to believe that I will most likely find iron and zinc instead of lead provided any shops would even give/sell to me. Is that my only option other then buying ingots straight out or do recycling centers in the Twin Cities have cheap scrap lead? Hoping you guys have some wisdom on places I can start hunting for lead.
Getting WW from tire shops in MN, is tough if you don't have connections, ever since 2008 and the metals spike, there have been scrappers scrounging them. Add to that, before 2016, I think is was 2013 or 2014, the State mandated that all state vehicles have non-lead WW installed when tires were replaced...what that meant was, every tire shop/repair shop that worked on Government vehicles switched to non-lead WW.
The conclusion is, when you find WW's at tire shops/repair shops, there is a pretty high percentage of steel/Zinc and it's super rare to get them free or cheap, so I've come to the conclusion, if you can't find other sources, it's more cost effective to buy COWW ingots or range scrap ingots from vendors here...and saves a lot of dirty work.

Automotive salvage yards, especially outside the twin cities, is a great place to find WW's, as they are typically off old cars, and the iron/zinc percentage is low.

Another source is "cleanout" companies, I have one friend who does that, and I get all kinds of different lead alloy salvage stuff from him. Which leads me to one final thought, that's kind of obvious, is to put out the word, tell all your friends and family to be on the lookout for lead (roof flashing, dental shields, Isotope containers, Pipe, cast iron sewer pipe joints, range scrap, WW, dimensional lead, battery cable ends, old diving weights, old homemade boat anchors, and the obvious old guy who use to cast his own and has stuff he hasn't used for decades). Putting the word out, may not pay off for a year or so, so just gently remind your friends and family from time to time, and sooner or later, you'll stumble onto a score so big, you'll wonder if you should take it (I've turned down a couple myself).

Lastly, Look for, and get the Lyman cast bullet handbook 4th Ed. it's one of the best sources of info about casting that there is, plus, once you start loading cast, it has most of the data you'll need.
good luck

[dverna]

KISS

Start with commercial foundry lead. It will have no junk in it. If you cast poor bullets, you know it is you or the mold....probably YOU. Look at saving money on alloy after you have proven you can make good bullets.

Invest in a thermometer, start at 700 degrees. Depending on the mold and alloy you may need to adjust temperature. When you find what works....WRITE IT DOWN

Do not start with powder coat. Tumble or pan lubes are cheap and effective.....and simple.

Buy a good mold. Lee molds can be great or not so great. I would not recommend starting with one.

Don Verna

[catskinner]

For a lead source check with indoor ranges in your area. I have cleaned out the backstop at the club I belong to. Depending on what the local shooters are using the composition will vary. Most of what I've recovered goes 11-13 bhn which works for a lot of applications. Since you are in the twin cities hit the gun show at the state fairgrounds in March. The Cast Bullet Association usually has a table there. Talk to them and ask questions. I know some of them from shooting CBA matches and they will steer you right. Might even be there myself since I haven't gone there in several years.

[RogerDat]

+1 on the thermometer This one is same range as the "lead" thermometers from reloading companies but less expensive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055777EU/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_w

Cleaning out a backstop of a range wear suitable breathing protection, gloves, and get out of any dust covered clothes afterwards. Lot of lead dust accumulates and breathing in lead or dust is probably the more likely way to find yourself elevating your blood lead levels. Casting shouldn't unless you like your fingers or eat where you cast. Dust from backstop or from spent brass can be a source of lead in your system.

The nice thing about Lee molds is you can try different weights and configurations inexpensively. The bullets are generally of a good design. You may well want to eventually invest in better molds but Lee is a great way to find out what works. And in some cases they hold their own against the competition. A 6 cavity 158 SWC for 38 is on my wish list. But my 2 cavity version has cranked out at least 1,500 bullets and still works fine. NOE, Accurate, Lyman all make arguably better molds but better at $80 doesn't mean the works well at $20 should be avoided.

Tumble lube is cheap, fast and easy. Look up 45/45/10 lube. And look into LsStuff white label alox, cheaper than the little bottles from Lee http://www.lsstuff.com/ he also has lubes that are good for pan lubing or even using a finger to push into the lube groove. Products are listed in his store. Lot of information on using each item.

[RogerDat]

I wish I could recall the place that sold cast lead bullets from common molds. Another good way to get started reloading with cast lead and find out if a certain mold would be good for your firearm. Maybe someone will be able to provide a link.

[kmrra]

glad you found that , its a lot cheeper than any of rhe other thermometers

[Shiloh]

Minneapolis or St Paul??

SHiloh

[WGD118]

Thanks for the thermometer link, I have saved it in my amazon cart.

Why all the talk of tumble lube? To me it seems powder lube is better, the cost isn't much more but the trade offs seem much better.

[Yodogsandman]

You need more "stuff" for powder coating, like a convection oven, oven thermometer, plates to set boolits on, etc...
They are "prettier" than dull, grey boolits.

Tumble lube (Lee Liquid Alox) comes with a Lee sizing die kit and can be as simple as rolling boolits around in a baggie with a drop of tumble lube and placing them on wax paper to dry.

[wv109323]

Random Comments from all the above posts.
1.) Take two or three heavy duty buckets with you when you visit the tire shops. You don't want to ask how much a five gallon bucket of wheel weights weighs.
2.) You may want to tell the tire shops you want the lead to make "fishing sinkers" and not bullets. That seems to be more PC when trying to get your foot in the door.
3.) To get started I may buy some cast boolits. That way you may find a bullet that shoots in your rifle and then you just need to duplicate that bullet for your load. Plus if you buy 100 bullets and they don't work out you can melt the rest of them down. It is cheaper to buy a hundred bullets than investing in a mold that is not compatible for your rifle. Plus buying initial bullets takes the learning curve out of casting until you have your reloading figured out.
4.) Powder coating or tumble lube are both acceptable. It is personal choice. With powder coating, an advantage is that the powder coat increases the bullet diameter. That may be anvantageous especially if the rifle is Microgrooved.

[725]

As you have indicated in the Original Post (OP), you are just starting out with reloading and also bullet casting. For what it's worth, I suggest that you start out with a Lee Loader in .45-70. Those Lee Loaders are a one box outfit that will make exceptional ammo. I guess the going rate is about $30 - $35 for the whole kit. You supply the hammer. ! Hammer ! ? ? Yep. Ingenious device that produces very good ammo, one round at a time. No doubt, as funds improve and experience accumulates, you'll move into a press, dies, sizers, and all manner of STUFF to load you own. For the start up, it's hard to beat the Lee Classic Loaders. As long as you are on this site, you might be able to search articles written by a now deceased former member who went by the name "Junior". Not sure about his proper handle. Hope somebody here pipes up with the complete name. Well worth the read and education about the Lee Loaders. Best of luck. 725

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Since you have not reloaded ANY cartridges, maybe you should consider purchasing some bullets, lead or other to begin your adventure. This is part of avoiding the TOO MANY variables that can occur. Start with a single powder, known to work well in the .45-70, say H4198, then try for useful accuracy with a bullet you like. It may only take 40 or 50 rounds but you should get to be comfortable with the RELOADING part then add the bullet creation. Your excitemant/enthusiasm is GREAT, but you need start with some basic processes to avoid the frustration that could cause you to turn away from this great lifelong endeavor/passion/experience that can exist at whatever involvement you care for.

[WGD118]

Snip.. Your excitemant/enthusiasm is GREAT, but you need start with some basic processes to avoid the frustration that could cause you to turn away from this great lifelong endeavor/passion/experience that can exist at whatever involvement you care for.

Thank you, and while I understand the idea of buying a couple boxes to work with reloading and at this point I may have to my current search for WW is turning up empty and a member told me that scrap yards in MN are not allowed to sell lead to residents. The idea of doing the whole process from scratch is part of what excites me also I find it much more interesting where there are a ton of variables and I am in the deep end absorbing information and feeling like I don't know it all. A good example of this is I picked up a 3d printer 6 months ago and spent the first 3 learning and tinkering as I figured out all the variables and problems, now I am in the process of building one from scratch a whole new set of variables and problems just a way of keeping things interesting. While this can lead to frustrations it makes the process of figuring out the solution all that more appealing and rewarding.

So not only do I expect to get cheaper ammo to shoot a big plus, I also learn about alloys and mixtures, fluxing, hardness, powder types, bootlit types, rated chamber pressures, and many other things each step being a part of a complex process. So while I understand buying precast bullets is a wise choice at this time I want to stick with the more challenging process.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Thank you, and while I understand the idea of buying a couple boxes to work with reloading and at this point I may have to my current search for WW is turning up empty and a member told me that scrap yards in MN are not allowed to sell lead to residents.

...SNIP
While I've heard that line from a few places, I think it's just that, "a line" and not an actual law or rule. As we know, there is a liberal movement to ban Lead, and that MN is a liberal state, and the Twin Cities is the liberal epi-center of the State. Travel out of the Cities and check out rural salvage yards as I suggested...Don't call, these types of places (in rural settings) hate phone calls.

I commend you on your outlook into the casting hobby, most people don't look at it as a challenge, they just want cheap shootin' and most of the time that type of person is easily frustrated when troubles arise (myself included). Since we are beyond the advice of scavenging scrap lead, I'll add one thing that was a big huddle for me. Reloading dies...they are designed and made for jacketed bullets. While regular reloading dies will work for commercial cast bullets, as they are generally made with a hard alloy, there can be challenges using standard dies with home cast boolits, as they are generally made with softer (scrap) alloys. A softer alloy is usually better functioning, but needs different techniques to load them to be successful. Every caliber and every die manufacture can have different issues, so I just can't outline the do's and don'ts here. The biggest issue (that goes across the spectrum) is case tension on the cast boolit. Most pistol die sets have too small of a expander for cast boolits and most Rifle FL size dies will size the neck too small for cast boolits ....and those things can squeeze (swage) the boollit smaller when seated, creating a undersized boolit that the shooter is unaware of and will cause lead fouling and can cause poor accuracy.

[runfiverun]

wanting to be a tinkerer and improver.
well,,,,,,,,,, you come to the right side of the planet.
you'll learn your pistols, revolvers, and rifles.
you'll learn to muck about with die sets.
you'll learn oh boy you'll learn if your willing and want to pursue the different avenues of casting ain't afraid to fail and keep asking why.

[W.R.Buchanan]

The advice 725 provided above about using a Lee Loader to learn the process is a great place to start, and I recommend them to virtually everyone who voices and interest in Reloading his own ammunition. They are the simplest tool there is and at $35 a screamin' bargain.

I started with one and still use them occasionally.

They are fun to use and educate you on the sequence of events necessary to Reload a Cartridge in the simplest possible manner, and really they aren't "that much Slower" than any other Single Stage method of loading. IE a single stage press. They are a lot more portable as well.

When I started reloading in 1971 I bought a Lee Loader for my .243, and I still have it. Wish I had the gun back as well. I soon bought a .44 Magnum Revolver, and I also bought a Lee Loader for it and soon tired of buying Jacketed Bullets for it. So I bought a Lee Bullet Mould a small RCBS Lead Melting Pot and a Lyman Ladle, and a Lyman Cast Bullet Manual, and learned how to Cast Boolits on my stove in my kitchen,,, ( no wife!). I still have all those tools and still use them. (In my shop!)

My S&W Model 29 revolver would put 5 of those Lee Boolits into 1.5" group with boring regularity. Don't have that gun either and like an idiot I gave away the Lee Loader with it. But I still have and use that mould and it makes perfect boolits everytime with simple wheel weights.

My main advice to you would be to start with a simple Lee Loader and plastic mallet and learn how to load ammo. Then get a lead pot and Ladle and a Lee Mould and learn how to cast boolits. Lee moulds work well and are pretty inexpensive with most around $20. You have already stated that you want to do .45 cal boolits and that is a good place to start as short fat boolits are much easier to learn on than long skinny ones.

My Last bit of advice would be to buy your Lee Stuff from "Titan Reloading" ,,, as they are great people to deal with, and are Sponsors of this site.

Good luck and welcome to the hobby.

Randy

[WFO2]

I just started casting this year started with a Lee 20 pound pot and an order of Lyman #2 from Roto metals . Bought a Lyman 150 grain 4cav mold for 38 special and went to town . Since I have scrounged lead from ISO cores and wheel weights .Don't let the lack of lead stop you once you get going you will find sources for lead . I'm 57 and have a Triple A and a leaking Aortic valve . Hoping out new President will fix health care so I can retire . If you have any questions just ask , the folks on here are a great help . You can PM me to if you wish . Good luck .

[RogerDat]

The Lee Loaders (aka wack-a-mole kits) are neat and good way to learn reloading. If you go that route you will want one of those plastic/rubber headed hammers. I stopped buying them because the cost of those Lee Loader kits was the same as the cost of a set of dies. Once you have a press it just didn't make sense to me to not buy the dies.

I may eventually purchase more to cover some more calibers one of these days but way down on the list of priorities. Still with that being said using one was and is fun and highly portable. I have them for shot gun also. I figure cheaper to buy finished rounds but one never knows could be useful and since I do have some shot...