.40 ?

[LIMPINGJ]

I am thinking of building a small bore for small to medium game and just shooting for fun. I know the .32 would be fine for small game and is cheap to feed but wonder about the medium size stuff. The .40 just seems interesting to me or I could split the difference with the .36. Has anyone used a .40 or .36 and what are your thoughts on them.
Thanks
LIMPINGJ

[Johnch]

I have 2 36's a cheap CVA and a TC
Both are a joy to plink with
What burns me , is the CVA will slightly out shoot the TC

But because the TC is a sweeter rifle it gets more feild / range time

I use them to hunt Tree rats , ground Hogs , stray cats and any other small game

My dad has a TC Hawken with a Green Mountain 40 cal barrel
It shoots great also
He uses it for deer along with small game ( here in Ohio 38 cal and larger for deer )
He has never had a problem killing deer , but he is a exalint shot and he keeps the range down
But IMO it is getting a little large for tree rats , as he tends to ruin a lot more meat than I do


My thoughts on the 2
If you don't plan on hunting deer the 36 probely a better choice
Every once in a while a 36 cal maxi mould is avaible on the auction sites

The 40 is better if you might want to shoot a deer
Even a 40 cal RB is getting to be a fair chunk of lead , so dad always makes sure a tree is behind the Tree rat to stop the ball
But as in cast boolits in rifles , the larger the bore the easyer it is to get them to shoot well


Buy the 36 , get a good mould or 2 and enjoy

John

[kjg]

One other thing to add the .40 cal has been getting great rant and raves over by the target shooting crowd, 9 times out of 10 it will out shoot large cals, and is real inexpensive to shoot and cast, my all time favorite tree rat shooting is the .36 aim as close to the critter as possible and bark 'em that means shoot the tree right beside its head the force of the inpact will give the critter and instant shock and kill itfast and quick with no meat damage takes practice but can be done expect plenty of misses untill you start getting hits. kjg

[JeffinNZ]

Oh boy, is this my thread!!!???

I have a pair of .40RB rifles. One cap, one flint. I built the flinter myself.

Both where Colerain barrels and I shoot my own cast (of course) .395 round balls. Balls weigh in at 94gr so a pound of lead goes a long way.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/JeffinNZ/Shooting%20stuff/Hare.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/JeffinNZ/Shooting%20stuff/IHrabbithare301205.jpg

For the type of shooting I do they are the ducks nuts. Small game and target out to 100m though mostly 50m. I can run them on as little as 25gr of 3Fg powder and they both cloverleaf group at 50m off the bench. This is 100m off the bench and the BEST I have ever shot the flinter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/JeffinNZ/Shooting%20stuff/Possible.jpg

A lot of folk say .40cal is too much for tree rats and that could be right. No tree rats in NZ you see. If you head shoot I can't see a problem. Conversely I lot of folk say .40cal is too small for medium game and again that could be right though I did drop a large billy goat at an HONEST 100m with my flinter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/JeffinNZ/Shooting%20stuff/IHgoat2.jpg

I'm afraid you'll have to decide but for me and my shooting the .40cal ROCKS.

[Lead melter]

Egads, the rabbit [hare?] is almost as big as the rifle. We got to get down Jeffs way boys.

[JeffinNZ]

European hares. Great sport. Much smarter than bunnies and taste like venison.

[madcaster]

Just like on my car tag,"40FLINT"....LOVE IT!:-D

[northmn]

The 40 has become very popular. Here are my observations for what they are worth. I had a couple of 32s and found that top accuracy came from loads of about 20 to 25 grains. Blew up small game about like a 22 mag hp. If you want to hunt small game with a ML, head shoot them. My 40 is accurate, I buy swaged ball anymore (ran out of pure lead) and find it relatively cheap to shoot as it gives good accuracy with about 30 grains of powder. Won a few prizes with it at matches when I used to attend them. I also hunted tree rats with a 45 and found it ok, slightly overkill. As to barking squirrels, if you get them when they hug the tree it works. First time I tried it the bark flew and the squirrel ran up a tree and shouted obscentities at me in squirrel language. Basically I switched to a 40 because I found the larger bore to be more accurate at longer range for targets and really no more destructive on small game.

Northmn

[Bigjohn]

I also have a .40 flinter. It is a handy weight rifle which you could carry all day, hence my preference. There are no tree rats here downunder but plenty of hares and wabbits so the .40 rocks.

It is unfortunate, but as others have said "Only you can decide." I would add, if you have an opportunity to try out someone elses rifle; then do so and use that to help you decide.

On the matter of tree rats, I have a couple of ex-pat Coleradians living locally who have experienced 'barking' tree rats and they recommend a smaller cal. about .32".

Ahh; to heck with it all; get both.

John.

[Rattus58]

I have a 40 caliber as well and as an all around shooter, I don't think you'll be able to beat it... and deer fall too... :)

Aloha... :cool:

[LIMPINGJ]

Thanks for sharing your ideas on the .40. Now which barrel maker to choose is the next step. I can get a Green Mt for less $ or go with one of the more expensive makers. Do any of you have experience with the more costly makers? Are they any more accurate or do they just offer the swamped configuration for the looks and balance and shoot the same as a Green Mt.

[JeffinNZ]

I wouldn't go past my Colerain barrels with the round bottom rifling. No sharp edges to hold the fouling and shoot GREAT.

[beemer]

I built a 40 about 30 years ago. A 38 Special case full of 3F works for tree rats and about 60 grs of the same for deer. It might not be perfect for either but it doesn't use a lot of powder or lead and gets the job done.

beemer

[KCSO]

IMHO the 40 is the best caliber for a combination rifle. The 40 will buck the wind enough that it will put you in the money at most 100 yard rifle matches. It can be loaded down for small game and is no more destructive than any other smalller caliber. In fact it is accurate enough that you shouldbe able to manage head shots out to 50 yards. It is not a perfect deer caliber but can be loaded up to take deer cleanly by a careful and dedicated hunter. It is cheap to shoot and you can afford to practice, and that is the most important thing. If I could only have one rifle it would be a 40 caliber.

[JeffinNZ]

IMHO the 40 is the best caliber for a combination rifle. The 40 will buck the wind enough that it will put you in the money at most 100 yard rifle matches. It can be loaded down for small game and is no more destructive than any other smalller caliber. In fact it is accurate enough that you shouldbe able to manage head shots out to 50 yards. It is not a perfect deer caliber but can be loaded up to take deer cleanly by a careful and dedicated hunter. It is cheap to shoot and you can afford to practice, and that is the most important thing. If I could only have one rifle it would be a 40 caliber.

+1.:-D

[Bad Ass Wallace]

I built this light weight "fast twist" 45 as a hunting rifle. Fitted with a Martin Cadet rear sight (windage & elevation adjustments) it uses the long Lyman .446 conical hollow based minnie. Bullet performance on medium game is much better than my old 36.

Yes, it is a true lefthanded rifle!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/BAWallace/45BP3.jpg

[northmn]

You asked about barrel makers. It used to be said that the difference between an expensive barrel and a standard barrel was about 100-200 shots, as the less expensive need to be shot in more. Precision is a matter of personal wants and practical application. Some like rifles that shoot into one hole at a given range, others want one that will do the job. A Green Mountain barrel has adequate rifling depth and shoots well enough for about any practical application I can think of, unless you want to shoot field mice at 100 yards. Swamped barrels hold nicer for offhand work but are harder to inlet. I can inlet a straight barrel with a table saw in an afternoon, a swamped takes alittle longer. I have shot a lot of tree rats with a straight barrel. Usually the more expensive barrels have a better outer finish that requires less hand finishing. My own personal feeling on accuracy is that it lies in the lock and trigger system more than in nitpicking over barrels. If building a flinlock spend your money on the best flintlock you can find and get good triggers if doubleset. The later period English style flintlocks with rollers to assist the frizzen are the quickest and best and work well on a Southern rifle. Many like the Chambers white lightening touch hole liners. Have fun and enjoy.

Northmn