Removing Oil from a mold

[Ben]

I've tried brake cleaner, soap and hot water, etc. to remove oils from molds, while these methods work, I sometimes have to clean multiple times to get 101 % of the oil residues out of the mold with these methods. I've stumbled on something that will clean my molds much better than the above methods ! ! ( I've never tried it on Lee's ). I've only used this method on steel molds, the jury is still out on AL molds like Lee's. This stuff may or may not work well with AL molds. I don't know that yet ? ?

Get your mold hot by casting 20 - 25 bullets .
Wet both ends of a cotton Q tip wet with water, spray this on one end of the Q tip and rub it in the mold cavity well.

It will begin foaming. Take the opposite end of the Q tip and wet it again with clean water and wipe the mold clean of any residue. The mold should still be hot enough to evaporate any moisture at the point ( best be certain of that before you pour again ! ! ! ! )

Soot lightly with a Bic lighter. This method has been fool proof for me for the past 6 months. I've had molds in the past that didn't want to cast well. This treatment works with every one of those troublesome molds.

Photos..........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/PICT0002-20.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/PICT0001-28.jpg

[briarthorn]

I use brake cleaner that you find in the automotive stores, it does a good job of removing the WD40 I use to coat mine with. I have 4 molds 2 HG#68-BB's which I take extra special care of hey it works for me I've never tried this stuff you've mentioned maybe I'll give it a go thanks bud. :castmine:

[cuzinbruce]

With iron molds, I take them apart, remove all the screws, the sprue cutter, everything. Then boil all the pieces in water with washing soda (from the supermarket). 10 or 15 minutes and they are spotless. Just don't use your wife's favorite pot. And don't lose any of the little pieces. I think washing soda is what they wash gun parts with before bluing them. Don't let the blocks bang together while they are boiling.

[HeavyMetal]

The base chemical in most household cleaners is Sodium Hydroxide.

This works very well for disolving animal fats and oils. It won't bother steel.

HOWEVER This stuff will pit aluminum faster than turning a shotgun loose on it!

Brake parts cleaner and Isopropal alcahol are best for aluminum molds, takes longer but the mold won't get hurt!

[docone31]

I am a cheater, I have a bunch of take out Chinese resteraunt plastic containers. I put a little gasoline in one and stick the mold into it. I go away for a while. After letting it sit, I let it air dry, then spray the dickens out of it with brake cleaner. Smoke it, and cast away.
So far, great results.

[13Echo]

So far all I've had to do for any mould I have is get a toothbrush, some dishwashing soap, and warm water. Lather the mould up and scrub it thoroughly at least twice, preferably three times for a new mould, with a thorough rinse in warm water and really hot water the last time so the mould tends to self dry. Thoroughly dry it off. I then warm it to 450 deg f on a hot plate in a little tin oven enclosure I made. By the time the lead is melted, the mould is hot, and I get good bullets after just a few casts. With some moulds it helps to smoke the cavity. It's easy, it works, there are no flammable and toxic liquids used and no fancy equipment is required.

After use I coat the mould in WD40 or Kroil and wrap it in an oily rag and store it in an airtight box. Just wash it up before the next use.

Jerry Liles

[Ben]

heavyMetal:

Thanks for the tip on using my cleaner on AL molds. I'll be certain that I never use it on an AL mold.

It certainly works fine on my steel molds.

I'll stick with it until I find something that works better.

Thanks,

Ben

[quietmike]

i just keep mine in a large tupperware container with a dessicant pack instead of oiling them after use.

Or are you guys talking about new moulds?

[redneckdan]

I store my moulds soaked in rem oil. Before casting I spray the cavities down with engine degreaser and let is foam for a couple minutes, then a spray them down with brake cleaner.

[GabbyM]

I used some foaming engine cleaner on a cast iron mold last week. Cleaned up spotless. Including some of the blue color! I'm calling that stuff over kill. Was a bit scary. Rinsed it off good with brake cleaner to stop whatever was happening. It still cast ok but will never look the same. Seemed like a good idea at the time :roll:
It was the Amsoil brand. Strong stuff.

[Ben]

I don't oil my molds after use.

Here's where I keep mine :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=13322

I'm talking about new molds that I buy and used molds that are shipped to me or that I buy at a Gun Show.

Once my molds are oil free, they don't need the treatment anymore that I've described.

THANKS ,

Ben

[redneckdan]

slick ****, I'll have to make one of them. Reloading activities have been banished to the basement in the new apartment. The guns safe had to go up stairs, even liberal dosing of rem oil would keep the guns rust free. All metal reloading equipment gets sprayed down after every day I use.

[Cherokee]

I started casting in 1968. I store all my molds in GI ammo cans. I have never oiled my molds. I have never had a mold rust in storage, one did get some light rust when I left it out on my bench all winter. It cleaned up real easy. YMMV

[DonH]

Denatured alcohol or acetone and Q-tips. If really stubborn, I may boil. It is not a big deal.

[LAH]

I've used starting fluid for years and years. Be sure you're outside and there is zero source of ignition.........Creeker

[DanM]

I use a non chlorinated cleanser like 'Bar Keepers Friend' or 'Zud' on new aluminum or iron molds. After initial use, I clean with carb cleaner or starting ether only.