Chileno Modelo Mauser 1895 disassembly ??

[CHeatermk3]

I received a VG looking m95 Chileno today and would like to take the barreled action out of the wood. My first, hopefully only, problem is that I don't see how one would go about removing the barrel bands to allow separating the metal from the wood.

The bore is on it's second soak in Wipe-out foam--I got the deepest navy blue colored patch on the first one--but now the rifling is showing edges instead of the rounded lands I saw at first.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I do not have an 1895 in my accumulation, but Mauser bands are usually held onto the stock in one of two similar ways. If you look at the bottom of the stock you may see what appear to be flat metal bars inletted into the wood and extending backward from the bands. These are actually sort of a spring that has a tail on the end farthest away from the band that is fitted into a hole in the stock which is invisible when the spring is in place, and a hook or projection that snaps under the band when it is in place. So to remove the band you need to force the spring down at the band end into the stock out of connection with the band, and while keeping it depressed you need to tap the band forward toward the muzzle. Sometimes it is difficult to depress the band as many haven't been removed since the rifle was manufactured and can have accumulated rust or crud under the band, but originally they were able to be depressed with just firm thumb pressure. If yours is reluctant to depress you can try tapping it downward with an appropriately sized wooden dowel which won't mar the finish, or a small clamp with an appropriate pad can also be used. Once you have the front band depressed you can tap it forward with a small plastic or rubber mallet toward the muzzle by tapping against the bayonet lug, and for the lower band by tapping forward against the sling swivel lump. Some Mausers use a later version of this system that uses a much slimmer spring with a long round tail that is inserted in a hole in the stock, a much thinner spring with a round peg on the end that fits into a corresponding hole in the front band. The spring has a lump on the side toward it's front that is meant for thumb pressure to push the spring down into the stock and the front peg out of the hole in the band. The lower band uses the same system but instead of having a peg there is a ledge that rests against the edge of the band and which prevents its movement. Variations will be found with the lower band's spring behind or in front of the band, and this system was borrowed for some of the early US military rifles as well. I suspect your rifle has the first system, with the springs on the bottom of the rifle and appearing flatter and wider than the later type of springs. If these general instructions don't solve your problem a photo would help in giving a more specific answer.

[CHeatermk3]

Thank you--this is exactly what I needed to know!

[Der Gebirgsjager]

You're welcome. :smile:

[CHeatermk3]

Well, the lower spring moves a bit when pressed down, but the front one is being stubborn. I'll see if I can make/modify one of my small c-clamps to work for this--otherwise I'll take it over to a friend's place in order to have a third or fourth hand available to assist me.

I've found that the slide on the rear sight seems not to change anything when moved--flip up the ladder to adjust for longer range? the slide fails to engage the little notches along the outer edges of the ladder;I'm kinda skeptical of my ability to disassemble it.

Any ideas?

[racepres]

Is your site hinged at the rear or the front...makes a difference.

as said, a couple of quick photos of you new "baby" would help bunches...besides, I lust for an "as issued" Chilean!!!
I will drool a bit!!!!

[CHeatermk3]

OK! OK!
I'll post some pix a bit later this evening! :)

[CHeatermk3]

182173182169182170182172

[CHeatermk3]

182174

[Der Gebirgsjager]

The barrel band retaining springs do appear to be of the first type I mentioned. They may have to be depressed between 1/4 and 3/8" to release the bands. I have successfully done this operation using a "C" clamp. You have to pad the top of the barrel so as not to mar it, and then use something to pinpoint the squeeze force on the spring like a 1" long piece of 1/4" wooden dowel between the end of the spring right behind the band and the clamp.

The rear sight appears to be elevation adjustable only with the ladder up portion. Were it adjustable with the ladder down there would be distinct steps and range markings on the base on which it lies. The sliding bar is held in position by an small internal spring. If you have to squeeze both sides to move the bar then there are two springs, one on either side. Usually they are visible when viewed from the bottom between the little release lever and the ladder. If you only see one, then the other is probably missing. At the top of the ladder there is likely a tiny screw. If you remove the screw, then the bar can be removed off the top of the ladder. Then you will probably have to drive out a tiny pin to remove the release lever that is missing the screw, but the good news is that you might be able to sneak one into place without removing the lever, just compress it and push it into place with a very small screwdriver tip. If not, and you have to take it apart, you'll find the repair not too difficult. Just don't lose that tiny pin. You may need to hold it with a pair of small needle nosed pliers or a hemostat when tapping it back into its hole because it's too small for fingers.

From your photos it appears to be a very nice rifle.

[racepres]

The front Band is removeable by pressing the spring [flat metal part on bottom of front of stock]
and pushing the band off as outlined in the first response.[remove cleaning rod first, or you aint gonna depress the "latch".] The rear band?? I forget, but I think it is the type with a small spring that is obstructing travel to the front on the right side of the stock...
The ladder sight on Loewe small rings [mostly] are meant for relatively close range with the Ladder down...raising the ladder [extended upward] brings the slide into play...which is raised Up the Ladder...Note the two different sighting Blades at the slide...
A desireable setup IMO

[racepres]

BTW
Be very careful removing the handguard on that Style...it is a tight fit at the rear sight, and is very easily damaged...and Not easily Replaced...
Raise the front first, but not to an extreme extent...just enough to clear the sight mount [band], then slide forward slightly.

[CHeatermk3]

The slide does not engage the ladder notches at all, it is sprung on both sides. I've had it off and whatever is supposed to engage the notches in the ladder are either missing or stuck in the retracted position. I'll pull it off again tomorrow after the bore soaks overnight and drop it into Kroil to soak..maybe I'll luck out and not need to take it apart.

[racepres]

Let me look...I may have a Slide...
But, I gotta say, I have never even stood my ladder up [Spanish '93 not Chilean 95]
Just to ensure it would I guess...I use mine folded for the "closer" blade...It just seems wider to my eye as well as lower...

[EDG]

You cannot depress the spring behind the muzzle with the cleaning rod in place.
Remove the cleaning rod and you should be able to depress it enough to slide off the front band.

[CHeatermk3]

Still working on the bore; gone to brushing/patching as I've gotten about as far as I need to using wipe-out.

Seems the more I brush and patch, the fuzzier it's getting...must be a "frosty bore"?


shooting will tell...
The slide seems to have had the little catches that engage the notches in the ladder worn or broken off, so I'm in the market for a slide, I guess.

[racepres]

Still working on the bore; gone to brushing/patching as I've gotten about as far as I need to using wipe-out.

Seems the more I brush and patch, the fuzzier it's getting...must be a "frosty bore"?


shooting will tell...
The slide seems to have had the little catches that engage the notches in the ladder worn or broken off, so I'm in the market for a slide, I guess.
Soak that bore in PB blaster!!!
I am searching for a ladder sight!!!

[30Carbine]

If you can't find that ladder sight let me know I have one sitting on one of my mills right now. Spanish I made a mount for a scope never going to put the ladder back on.

[CHeatermk3]

I think the ladder itself is bent because the slide wants to bind at the top about 1/3 the way up--I may be able to straighten it out but if I could get a whole new sight, or replacement parts i'd be very grateful!

Almost ready to fireform some cases. I fired one round for function and to have a fired case handy--A start load of AA4350 and a rem 150 gn PSPCL.

Brushing with Ed's red and bronze brush has the bore looking better. I scored a NOE 5 cav mold and should find time tomorrow to cast up some boolits. Noticed the rear leaf says "0-400" so I guess the slide and ladder are not necessary but I'd still like to have functional sights for boolits.

Spent last night and today keeping the fire goin' since we lost power 2AM.

I appreciate the help, guys!

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I don't know if it's been mentioned yet, but when the sight is in the down (flat) position, the sight you're seeing is the battle sight. The concept was that the sight was matched to the trajectory of the bullet--you've no doubt seen the diagram many times of the fired bullet rising above the line of sight and then again crossing it as it loses elevation due to gravity. The battle sight was set so that a hit would be scored on an erect man, usually between shoulder level and knee level within that area of the line of sight and trajectory. To shoot precisely and hit a specific point within that area, or to fire accurately beyond that area is when the ladder is raised the slide adjusted to the desired range and the other sight used. So, those experiencing good accuracy with the battle sight it is because they happen to be shooting near the juncture of the ascent or descent of the trajectory and line of sight. In between those two points it becomes a matter of "Kentucky" windage/elevation, and can be more or less dependent on the trajectory of the particular round being used, in this case the 7x57mm which is a good one; and the sights, which may appear identical on the various early models of Mauser rifles, are not necessarily the same as the trajectories are different for 7x57, 7.65x53, 8x57, etc. and the sights were made to be correct for the cartridge. Therefore it is important for you to obtain exactly the correct sight for your rifle, an 1895 Chilean sight, if yours can't be satisfactorily repaired. I checked Numrich Gun Parts Corp.'s website, and they currently show all of them "sold out". It's a fairly common rifle though, and you should be able to find one from another parts supplier--or just keep checking back with GPC as their inventory comes and goes.

[racepres]

I found the Ladder last night...without the slider on it!!! Wonder where that sucker went???
If 30 carbine has one...cool...I may never find that slider!!!

[CHeatermk3]

Thanks for the effort anyhow--I can live without a long range sight at least for now--the mold I got the other day casts beautifully. I cast up some boolits(NOE 287-150 FN (Hunter); first session, they just cooled off enough to handle--.277 nose tapers to 287 then 287 on the drive bands too. Don't think this is gonna work without some fine-tuning, like beagling maybe.

[racepres]

?? If ya load one, does the round chamber OK? my Spanish '93 has a Generous Chamber and being a bit worn in the lands, would probably shine with that particular projectile!!!
Yes...a Spanish is certainly Not a Chilean...but...I'm making a Correlation!!!

[CHeatermk3]

So far I only have 1 fired case, Remington/150gn PSP/41gns aa4350. There's lotsa clearance so fitting the throat w/this one will be a challenge.

[30Carbine]

CHeatermk3 if you would like that sight pm me you address it is yours. they are the exact same thing,as long as yours is still a 7x57. the only difference in them was the bolt face 93's where square and 95's were round. oh and an auxiliary shoulder behind the bolt handle in order to provide additional locking in case of bolt failure for the 95's. and the mag follower was different one you can close on empty and one you can't. can't remember which is which.

[CHeatermk3]

Mine can be closed empty--And thank you--PM on the way.

[racepres]

Mine can be closed empty--And thank you--PM on the way.

An Easy Modification...done all the time
so IMHO, not an indicator of Model!!! The Round bolt vs Square bottom bolt is valid for the bolt...I have been told that round bolts will function in a Model '93, but, I have never been able to actually Do It!!! They just don't go!!!

[CHeatermk3]

Bolt face is round. Follower is highly polished and appears to have been originally madr that way--polish is uniform. But, this is my first M95 so I'm an ignoramus as far as that goes.

[racepres]

The only Chileans that I have handled all closed on an empty Magazine..
I do have a Spanish 1916 and a Turkish '93 that do not!
the round bottom bolt is for the 1895...as said previous.