22 Long Rifle Mold

[easy ed]

Does anyone make molds for 22 Long Rifle projectiles ? I have looked all over the net and can find nothing.

Thanks

Easy Ed

[Hick]

Sources I have looked at say that 22LR is 0.22 to as high as 0.224. That being the case, a mold that works for a 223 Remington (or maybe 222 remington?) should do what you want.

[M-Tecs]

As you are aware you needed a heeled bullet for the 22LR

http://22lrreloader.com/design-details/


You can purchase 22 cal heeled bullets here: https://northamericanarms.com/shop/parts/cbb3/

[17nut]

http://oldwestbulletmoulds.com/products/22-long-rifle-40-grain-heel-bullet-double-cavity-mould

http://oldwestbulletmoulds.com/products/22-short-long-or-long-rifle-crimp-die

[easy ed]

Thanks to everyone - just what I wanted

Easy Ed

[bob208]

there is an out fit advertising in back woodman mag. they have a mold a loading tool and priming compound for .22 rim fire.

[LAGS]

I bought one of the 22LR reloading tools recently.
It comes with a 38 grain RN mold and a 25 gr pointed mold
The mold is OK for plinking, ans bare bones survial conditions.
I am still playing with the kit, and have had good results.
It is not going to produce Factory Quality ammo.
But it is better than having No 22 ammo to shoot.
I plan to try and make a similar set up for reloading my 32 RF.
The priming compound is Very Dirty, and corrosive, but better than nothing.
You just have to stay up on your cleaning.
So far, the best results have been with using Pyrodex pistol powder.

[Traffer]

Dang I just wrote a long post and hit something that erased the whole thing. There are several threads here that go into detail about reloading 22lr. I have heard that pyrodex is about the worst powder to use. People struggling to get 650 fps with it. I have been reloading 22lr for a year now. Have learned lots. One big thing is crimping. When using smokeless powder crimping is important. I have heard that the kit crimps but I am not sure. I use HS6 for powder. But you will have trouble igniting it without a tight crimp. There are lots of powders probably better than HS6. You can easily achieve normal velocities and high velocities with 22lr reloads depending on the powder, crimp, diameter of bullet, hardness of the bullet, primer etc. Reloading Rimfire is roughly 10x harder than reloading normal ammo. Good luck.

I bought one of the 22LR reloading tools recently.
It comes with a 38 grain RN mold and a 25 gr pointed mold
The mold is OK for plinking, ans bare bones survial conditions.
I am still playing with the kit, and have had good results.
It is not going to produce Factory Quality ammo.
But it is better than having No 22 ammo to shoot.
I plan to try and make a similar set up for reloading my 32 RF.
The priming compound is Very Dirty, and corrosive, but better than nothing.
You just have to stay up on your cleaning.
So far, the best results have been with using Pyrodex pistol powder.

[GrayTech]

Dang I just wrote a long post and hit something that erased the whole thing.

Try hitting "control" and "z" buttons together if it happens again. It will undo whatever your last command was.

[Traffer]

I bought a Lee 225-RF for about $25 on eBay. It makes 55 grain bullets which is too heavy. When I first started I used to cut the bullets down putting them in a "tube" that was just a bit bigger diameter than the bullet that would taper to smaller than the bullet. That caused the bullet to lodge in the tube. Putting the bullet in the tube nose first gave me access to the base of the bullet with a drill bit ("2 drill bit.) That I used to cut the bullet down to 40 grains or less. It has the added advantage of putting a slight cup in the base of the bullet that is also advantageous. However the grooves in the bullets from that mold do not line up well for reloading. I ground a "tunnel" in the face of a small pair of electricians pliers that I used to squeeze the bullet to a smaller diameter at the base allowing me to load these in the 22lr cases. It worked pretty well and surprisingly not really that slow. I have since totally changed my approach though. I now make 22lr bullets by swaging. It took me darn near a year to finally get a set of dies that work acceptably but now I have bullets better than factory made. I also powder coat them.
181593This is an example of a bullet that I cut down from the Lee 225-55RF mold. These are pics of the bullets that I swage now:
181594181595181596181597181598
The last few pictures are of the dies that I made to swage the bullets. (You can see a bullet in the heel die portion of the die on the second to last picture.
And the last picture has a bullet in the nose forming die with the heel swaged into the bullet.


Does anyone make molds for 22 Long Rifle projectiles ? I have looked all over the net and can find nothing.

Thanks

Easy Ed

[LAGS]

The referance to the Pyrodex giving Good Results was due to Consistant Ignition.
The smokeless loads were hit and miss unless you added a filler to keep the powder back in the case and keep the priming compound from Fluffing off.
But I got overpressured loads with most smokeless powders and a filler, if I didnt reduce the powder load.
But the pyrodex and a filler worked great.
Fired almost every time.
But with BP or pyrodex, I could almost fill the case and no filler was needed.
For plugging bunnies at close range to put meat on the table, I would rather have a slow bullet then a misfire and scare off the game.
And in a survival situation, you can make BP at home.
But I have not given up on working on smokeless loads.

[John Boy]

Thanks to everyone - just what I wanted
Easy Ed Ed, if you buy the mold & crimp die - what are you going to do making the reloads: smokless or black powder

For the good of the order, I reload 22LR cases with 4.5gr Swiss Null-B. The velocity equals smokeless at 1030 fps

[LAGS]

I think the original 22 LR load was 5.0 gr of 4F BP
I can not get 5.0 gr in a 22 LR case.
So 100 years ago, the powder may have has a different weight to volume than our modern powders.

[69daytona]

i have a 60gr gas check mold I bought long ago and tried it without a gas check in a 22lr case, it fit perfect, only problem was it needed a crimp and none of my 22s had a throat long enough for the bullet to feed. I sized it to .222 same size as I slugged the barrel.

[w30wcf]

I think the original 22 LR load was 5.0 gr of 4F BP

I can not get 5.0 gr in a 22 LR case.
So 100 years ago, the powder may have has a different weight to volume than our modern powders.

LAGS,

I have seen both the 4.5 and 5 grs of b.p. shown in early catalogs. I was fortunate enough to find a 50 round box of UMC black powder .22 LR cartridges several years ago. They contained 4.5 grs. of b.p.

Swiss b.p. is more dense than other b.p.'s and 5 grs will fit into a .22 L.R. case but testing indicated that 4.5 grs. was definitely more accurate, almost 50% more. As John Boy indicated, we have found that 4.5 Swiss Null B works very well.

No crimp required. (The U.M.C. rounds were not crimped.)

SMOKELESS -
Try 1.5 grs of either Bullseye or Titegroup or 1.8 grs of 231 WITH NO FILLER. They all shot well and produced velocities similar to current High Velocity .22 L.R. ammo. 2.0 / Unique also worked very well.

w30wcf

[LAGS]

I tried the 1.5 of Bullseye, (no filler ) and had lots of misfires like I mentioned.
But with 1.0 gr and a little filler it was more reliable on the ignition.
Then I tried 1.5 with a filler, and had the backs of three cases blow off.
Now to get back on topic, what do those of you with one of these reloaders think of the Boolit or the mold in general ?

[John Boy]

Now to get back on topic, what do those of you with one of these reloaders think of the Boolit or the mold in general ? Lags, don't own the mold or the crimper - but spent the money for both:
* Will give me a 40gr bullet mold. Now have a custom 42gr UMC match bullet mold from David Mos
* Can remove the heel - should give me a 38gr bullet for 22 Short-40gr for the 22 Long & Long Rifle with the heel
* Have 22 Short - 22 Long & 22 LR rifles - so all reloads are covered for bullet & crimp die
* Crimp die looks like it will work nicely to exclude using the Lyman .025 H&I die
Old West has a strong recommendation in the shooting community - so why be afraid to order a mold & crimp die

Now to repeat: What are any posters going to do with a 22 caliber RF mold for bullets and how are you going to reload them? Why Ask? ... Very few reloaders are going to use it anyway!
There's less than a half dozen handloaders in the US that reload 22 rimfires! w30wcf & myself do more 22 rimfire reloads that all the others put together! Traffer even sent me a modification kit to even make 22LR hollow base reloads. I have a box of 50 done and a To Do comparing them to flat base reloads for accuracy!

[Traffer]

Curious, what kind of filler did you use? I would like to try using filler to save on powder. If I can reliably reload with say 1.25 grains of smokeless powder and have the filler bump up the pressure, I would like to try that. Yes I am cheap.


The referance to the Pyrodex giving Good Results was due to Consistant Ignition.
The smokeless loads were hit and miss unless you added a filler to keep the powder back in the case and keep the priming compound from Fluffing off.
But I got overpressured loads with most smokeless powders and a filler, if I didnt reduce the powder load.
But the pyrodex and a filler worked great.
Fired almost every time.
But with BP or pyrodex, I could almost fill the case and no filler was needed.
For plugging bunnies at close range to put meat on the table, I would rather have a slow bullet then a misfire and scare off the game.
And in a survival situation, you can make BP at home.
But I have not given up on working on smokeless loads.

[LAGS]

The filler was regular Pillow stuffing, I think it is polyester.
I started off just using the stuffing I would pick up off the floor when my dog chewed holes in her toys.
But I also use Corn Meal .
And no, it is not being cheap to try to reduce your powder consumption.
But the load and your needs are most important.
But filler may Boost the Pressure, but I dont know if it relates directly to upping your Volocity in FPS.
But my main reason for a Filled Case was to keep the powder from rattling around and making the primer compound fall off the back of the case in spots.
I need to work on a better primer Binder than Acetone.
Something thay will not let the priming compound turn back to powder when dry.
But still allow the friction needed to let the compound ignight when compressed suddenly.
Any Suggestions ?

[Traffer]

If you are making your own primer gum of arabic will work. It is the stuff they use to hold the paper and caps together on toy roll caps.

[LAGS]

Thank you Traffer.
But what is Gum of Arabic, and where can it be found ?

[flyingmonkey35]

As you are aware you needed a heeled bullet for the 22LR

http://22lrreloader.com/design-details/


You can purchase 22 cal heeled bullets here: https://northamericanarms.com/shop/parts/cbb3/
Hey i know those guys just down the street from my parents.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

[Duckdog]

I have the bullet mold from Old West and one of his shell holders and crimping dies. All are of the best quality and he is very, very good to deal with. I also have one of the 22 LR reloading kits from 22 Reloader and the mold/crimper will work, but are not of good quality. It is cast and not machined like they show. Spend your money on the mold from Old West. It is a 3 banger and casts perfect bullets.

My routine is a tad different from Traffers but the end result is the same. I use the H48 priming mix, which is the same as the kit. Weigh the components, and do not rely on the dippers. I made a push through sizer by just drilling a couple fo holes in a piece of flat stock that is the right diameter. I use my arbor press to push them in, and a mall punch made ount of a nail, waser, and spring, to remove them. I just wash the brass in the NR solution, and just scrape the rim one rotation to prepare for the priming solution. I made a dipper that is a small pistol primer and a rifle primer, each soldered on the end of a stiff chunk of wire. I use the small pistol primer end for the 22 LR. I add a drop of acetone, and then put a small paper disc over the solution once it is wet. I push it down with a small wood dowel. This forces the slurry into the rim, and also holds it in once it dries.


I made a case mouth expander out of an old die. I use approx. 1.5 gr of 700X as a charge. I seat the heeled bullet and the Old West bullet crimper and walla, I have a finished round. I goes pretty fast. I have to say. Buying the correct mold, crimping die, and shell holder is critical.

For bullet lube, I use JPW.


I find this a fun endeavor to mess with. I also use the priming mix in my Tap O Cap for black powder. Same routine. Prime with the compound and put a drop of acetone and a small paper disc in the primer. Seat the disc with a small dowel, and let it dry.

[LAGS]

Duckdog
I tried the paper disc over the powder briefly a couple of months ago, without much sucess.
But if you say it works for you, then I may just have to experiment with it a little more.

[Traffer]

I just found out that gum of arabic prices have skyrocketed. It is waaay to expensive now. What used to be a couple of bucks is now in the $30 range. There are lots of alternatives though. I haven't decided on which one I would use yet. I am still using up a bunch of roll caps for my primer. Roll caps are very corrosive but are also very robust. I almost never have a misfire with them. (unless I buckle the head of the shell when seating the bullet. This leads to the primer popping lose and not igniting)
One other thing you can do is to add 5% to 10% of fine aluminum powder to your primer. You can get it from simply filing some aluminum with a fine file. It is best to strain it with about a #80 mesh strainer but it will work unstrained. It increases the heat and fire considerably. People were wondering why there were so many white sparks flying out of my barrel and even ejection port when I was using it at the range.

[LAGS]

I just happen to have some Aluminum powder from way back when I dabbled with fireworks.
But I did try the paper disk idea as suggested by Duckdog.
Before, I was priming the case and then inserting the dry paper disk as a wad to keep the primer in place.
But now when I do it with the mixture wet, it works a lot better.

[John Boy]

Aluminum powder on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/LB-Aluminum-Powder-Micron-Mesh/dp/B00IKZVXDU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480810008&sr=8-2&keywords=powder+aluminum

[Traffer]

Wow I have been using a 70 mesh screen. This is 500 mesh. That aluminum powder is so much finer than mine it probably behaves differently. I guess that's why mine is still burning when it comes out of the barrel (the sparks everyone noticed)

Aluminum powder on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/LB-Aluminum-Powder-Micron-Mesh/dp/B00IKZVXDU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480810008&sr=8-2&keywords=powder+aluminum

[Duckdog]

It definitely helps to wet the disc. It also kind of "glues" it to the bottom of the casing. Thanks for the link to the aluminum powder! I've never used it, but seeing how it is helping with Traffers results, I'm gonna give it a go. I'll probably just file some off of an aluminum flat sock with a fine needle file to start with. Traffer, how much are you adding to say a 30 grain mix?

[Traffer]

Duckdog:
I have been just sprinkling some on top of the primer like putting sugar on a cookie. Recipes that I have seen call for 5% to 10%. You can experiment by putting various degrees of aluminum on top of little piles of primer and hitting them with a hammer or putting it on the primer in a case and popping it. You will see a noticeable difference. I think I may have used up to 20% at times and it still worked. I have a very fine file that I got many years ago. It is not one of those needle files. I have them too but they make much coarser shavings. I don't know where one would get a fine file but do not use a grinder or sandpaper because some of the media can get into the powder and that would scratch your barrel.

[LAGS]

I too will try the aluminum powder in my primer mix, and see if it really works like you say.
what I have is the Very fine almost dust powdered aluminum.
I cant remember what we added the aluminum powder to the fireworks compound, it has been almost 40 years ago since I dabbled with that stuff.
I am using the Prime All compound, and I too weigh it out rather than count dippers of each compound.
Does anyone know exactly what each of these powders are ?
I know the yellow is sulpher, and the white is probably potasium chlorate.
It was mentioned that the Prime All is the T48 primer compound.
Does anyone have the T48 formula to share.

[Duckdog]

I do have the H48 primer mix. it is:

33 grain mix (this is good for about 100 primers/22 LR)

17 gr Potassium Chlorate (white powder) - 51.5%

9 gr Antinomy Sulfate (black powder) - 27.5%

3 gr Sulfur (yellow powder ) - 9 %

4 gr Crushed Glass or very fine sand (Tan powder in kit) - 12%

Here is a link with some very good reading on primer compounds in down to earth terms. I learned a lot from it.

http://www.bevfitchett.us/chemical-analysis-of-firearms/priming-compositions.html

I was actually able to buy all of the chemicals to make this mix and for about $40 bucks I have enough to load between 75,000 and 100,000 primers of 22 LR. I also have the Prime All kit, as well.

Hope this helps.

[M-Tecs]

I do have the H48 primer mix. it is:

33 grain mix (this is good for about 100 primers/22 LR)

17 gr Potassium Chlorate (white powder) - 51.5%

9 gr Antinomy Sulfate (black powder) - 27.5%

3 gr Sulfur (yellow powder ) - 9 %

4 gr Crushed Glass or very fine sand (Tan powder in kit) - 12%

Here is a link with some very good reading on primer compounds in down to earth terms. I learned a lot from it.

http://www.bevfitchett.us/chemical-analysis-of-firearms/priming-compositions.html

I was actually able to buy all of the chemicals to make this mix and for about $40 bucks I have enough to load between 75,000 and 100,000 primers of 22 LR. I also have the Prime All kit, as well.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the link.

[LAGS]

Thank You Duckdog.
I did try and add some Aluminum powder to the T48 priming compound today.
I mixed in 10%
20gr of T48 with 2 gr of Pyro Aluminum powder.
only 2 out of 5 fired, but that could be my fault this first go round.
But the two that fired did shoot a white sparky kind of flame out of my 27" barrel.
They didnt sound too much Snappier, but the flame was proof that it should give you better powder ignition.

[Duckdog]

What are you wetting the mix with? I have set mine off that I have wetted with acetone in as little as 15 minutes after priming, but I usually try to wait a lot longer. I am wondering if your primed cases might be a tad damp?

Fun stuff! I wish they would sell unprimed cases, or better yet, primed cases. It sounds like they used to. Oh well, a day late and a dollar short, as usual!

[LAGS]

I am using Acetone, but I will wash and dry the cases better, and see if that helps.
It is also Freezing here in Arizona today.
It got up to almost 60 degrees outside today.
The acetone took about an hour to dry out.
In my opld firework stuff, I still have about a half pound of Potassium Chloride, about 1/4 pound of Sulpher Powder, a 1/4 pound of Pyro Aluminum and a bag of some powder called Chemite, that I know was some kind of accellerator, to put more Bang for your buck..
I may dabble with trying to add some of the Chemite to the T48 mix.

[Traffer]

I had better luck with pure alcohol. The hardware store kind. It takes a little longer to dry than acetone but seems to me more inert or have less affect on the primer.

[LAGS]

I have plenty of Denatured Alcohol.I will give that a try

[Duckdog]

I do not believe potassium chloride will work. It has to be potassium chlorate. Once fired, the potassium chlorate actually converts to potassium chloride, which is the main ingredient of salt substitute, if my memory serves me correctly. In fact, I do believe I watched something on you tube on how to take potassium chloride and actually make good potassium chlorate.

I actually messed with 92% alcohol and settled on acetone. I say, whatever works.

[LAGS]

Duckdog.
I do have the Potassium Chlorate.
I just cant spell so good looking at times.
I did have some Potassium Nitrate in the past, but it didnt have as much punch as the Potassium Chlorate.
I too saw something about using salt substetute and bleach to make Potassium Chlorate.
But I would just rather buy what I need

[Duckdog]

I'm with you on buying the chemicals! There is also an interesting post on the special projects forum on this site, if you have not see it. It's a long one, so have a beer to slurp on. It's damn fine reading on this topic.

I think if we all keep on posting our findings, we'll zero this process in. I figured you made a typo on the potassium chloride, but thought I'd mention it, in case you didn't. Keep us posted on your progress. I find this topic of real interest, even if there are probably only about a dozen of us reloading 22 LR in the country!

[LAGS]

I love how we can all share and take us back to the Basics.
We grew up in a society , where anything we wanted could be found at the store.
All we had to do was make the money to buy it.
Others on this forum can tell you I would rather Build, then Buy.
I am not a Gunsmith, but more of a Firearms Recycler.
And there may come a time, where you cant buy certian things any more. But if you have the knowledge, you will keep on doing what you want to in some form or another.

[Traffer]

My brothers take on reloading 22lr: "What the hell is the matter with you..." He is seriously upset with me for wasting my time on this. I just thank him for the encouragement.

[LAGS]

My friends are the same way Traffer.
They say I am wasting my time.
So I bet some of them that I could load 1000 in less time then they could find and buy 50 - 22LR's
No takers yet.

[John Boy]

I ordered the Old West 40gr 3X mold and adjustable crimp die for Shorts - Longs & LR. The brass mold casts like a dream and the bullets are perfect fully filled RN and the parting lines are near invisible. Totally Pleased!
And am trying a new lube: 50:50 mix of Carnuba Butchers Wax & Alox

[Traffer]

I think that you will be pleased at how much difference the crimp makes. Keep us posted. Do you have pictures of the new mold bullets?

I ordered the Old West 40gr 3X mold and adjustable crimp die for Shorts - Longs & LR. The brass mold casts like a dream and the bullets are perfect fully filled RN and the parting lines are near invisible. Totally Pleased!
And am trying a new lube: 50:50 mix of Carnuba Butchers Wax & Alox

[John Boy]

Do you have pictures of the new mold bullets?Traffer, no. But they really are clones of the old UMC's182605

[LAGS]

I took some of my reloads to the range on sunday.
They took two hammer strikes in the same spot to get them to fire , in both an old Winchester 67A and a Jennings J-22.
But hey fired fine in a Ruger Semi Auto Mk1, but didnt always eject fully.
That sould just be the load.
I think the rifle and the Jennings have very light firing pin springs.
And the Winchester has a Replaced Firing Pin Tip that I made out of a 4/40 screw drilled and tapped into the original firing pin carrier housing then reshaped, since I couldnt find a replacement when the firing pin tip broke.
The firing pin broke when the case exploded when I loaded it too heavy with a filler.
Accuracy was not tooo bad, I could hit the target with the Jennings at 25 yards.

[Duckdog]

John Boy. Good old Johnsons Paste Wax is an outstanding lube on these. It dries pretty hard and leaves no leading. Keep us posted on your results! I also made a case expanding die for the 22 LR out of an old sizing die and a shell holder I bought from Old West. What are you using for sizing?

[Traffer]

I am curious about the sizing die. I, being new to reloading and never having reloaded anything except 22lr, do not know exactly how sizing dies work. Do they size the inside and outside at the same time? My sizing technique is very slow. Hoping to figure out a faster way.


John Boy. Good old Johnsons Paste Wax is an outstanding lube on these. It dries pretty hard and leaves no leading. Keep us posted on your results! I also made a case expanding die for the 22 LR out of an old sizing die and a shell holder I bought from Old West. What are you using for sizing?

[John Boy]

What are you using for sizing? The Lee Universal Neck Expansion die with the small plug only - 15 bucks and works like a charm.

In fact I just came up from the basement after handloading 150 rounds with the new Old West bullets: throw a hand full of empty cases in a cup - expand each mouth only - put the cases in a Winchester 209 primer tray leaving a space between each case - 50 cases expanded in the tray and then ready for 4.5gr Swiss Null-B using a Lyman #5 with the small drop spout, charge all the cases in the tray without taking them out. Then set the bullets in the cases still in the tray - CH4D seater/ crimper them and then in the box. About 35 minutes start to finish for 50 rounds- 22 LR loaded with BP

There is no need to use an expansion die for 22 LR cases because the bullets are heeled. Just open the case mouth so when the bullets are seated there is no lead stripped of

[Traffer]

What if you are using spent cases from the range. The ones I get vary in diameter from .225 to .232. For me sizing these back down to the correct size is quite time consuming. I have made a sizing die but it is very slow.

[Duckdog]

That's all I am expanding is just the case mouth a tad. I use a piece of flat stock with a some holes drilled in it to the proper diameter and just push the brass into it with my arbor press, then flip it over and press them out. It goes very quick.

Even with the heel bullet, I have to expand the case mouth a bit.

[Traffer]

Oh yeah, I remember the flat stock with holes in it. I have to make one of those. I do them one at a time and also use a center ram to do the inside while they are in my one at a time outside die, probably overkill. About opening up the rim, yes the used cases are crimped and the case needs to have the crimp removed, I have a little hand tool... just a piece of round steel with the end rounded and a handle on it. I just push it in and the crimp is gone. I have some cases that are unused ... eley primed cases. They don't need the mouth opened up because they are not crimped. Just fyi, the inner diameter of a 22 shell is the same as a #4 drill bit, which is .209. I use a piece of #4 drill stock to open them up. I also swage my bullets with a heel of .206" (before powder coating). I have been using a sizing die to size the entire rounds after powder coating to make them exact and give them that nice glass like surface. But it only makes the surface of the bearing area glassy. My next project is going to be to make a die in which the bullet can be entirely resized after powder coating, to be able to make completed bullets that are slick and perfectly shaped so I can give them to you folks to test for me. The ultimate goal is to make match grade bullets. I believe that goal is now within reach. It only took me a year to figure out how to make the dies and tools to make the dies with. lol.


That's all I am expanding is just the case mouth a tad. I use a piece of flat stock with a some holes drilled in it to the proper diameter and just push the brass into it with my arbor press, then flip it over and press them out. It goes very quick.

Even with the heel bullet, I have to expand the case mouth a bit.

[Traffer]

I think what might have happened to make your cases explode with the filler:
I learned that 22 rim fire guns have a gassing or expansion hole or leak area on the breach. I wondered why they did that. I ended up figuring that because the 22lr cases are so thin they make the guns able to let enough leakage of pressure out the back to even out the pressure a little bit. Without them even the lowly little 22lr tends to separate the head. I noticed quite a few of my reloads with cracks along the rim. I also had one completely separate the head which blew the extractor pin out of the bolt. (never did find it) But that one I had way over loaded... 4.2 grains of HS6. But to try and solve the problem I started to anneal the cases before reloading. I have so far only tested some 25 of the annealed cases but so far no cracked cases. So I am going with the annealing now. I tried using filler on a couple of loads. One did not fire. It was in an eley primed case. Don't know what was up with that but decided to not use filler anymore after that. I use roll caps for my primer on reloads with an additional bit of aluminum powder. I can't imagine not having one of those firing. They are highly energetic to say the least. They would probably shoot without gun powder although I have never tried one.

I took some of my reloads to the range on sunday.
They took two hammer strikes in the same spot to get them to fire , in both an old Winchester 67A and a Jennings J-22.
But hey fired fine in a Ruger Semi Auto Mk1, but didnt always eject fully.
That sould just be the load.
I think the rifle and the Jennings have very light firing pin springs.
And the Winchester has a Replaced Firing Pin Tip that I made out of a 4/40 screw drilled and tapped into the original firing pin carrier housing then reshaped, since I couldnt find a replacement when the firing pin tip broke.
The firing pin broke when the case exploded when I loaded it too heavy with a filler.
Accuracy was not tooo bad, I could hit the target with the Jennings at 25 yards.

[John Boy]

The ones I get vary in diameter from .225 to .232. For me sizing these back down to the correct size is quite time consuming. Traffer, the easiest way to resize the spent cases is without lubing them - run them them trough the Lyman Lube Sizer with a 225 H&I die ... that's if you have the Lube Sizer

[Traffer]

I don't even know what a lube sizer is.


Traffer, the easiest way to resize the spent cases is without lubing them - run them them trough the Lyman Lube Sizer with a 225 H&I die ... that's if you have the Lube Sizer

[Traffer]

Just powder coated a small test batch of 22lr bullets that I had dimensioned to compensate for the powder coat. My powder coating setup is in my sisters garage (not heated) It was 0 degrees Fahrenheit when I started. The toaster oven had a hard time getting up to 400 degrees lol. After powder coating they came out at .46" oal (not that critical) With ,2245" to .225" diameter. And all the heals that I measured came out at .2085". My calculations came out perfect. I can either load them as is or re-size them in another swaging die that I am in the process of making so they come out like glass. Otherwise I will size the entire bullet after loading them, giving only the bearing surface the nice glassy finish. I made a .032" wire holder in the punch out punch so that I can embed a short piece of wire in the nose. I made a little holder to hold them in the oven.
Here are some pictures:
182747182748182749

[John Boy]

Pictures of Lyman Lube Sizer & H&I die ... https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=lyman+4500+lube+sizer&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=81535343077&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=s&hvrand=4944629342311619104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003990&hvtargid=kwd-4735101510&ref=pd_sl_3fxk732eob_b

Prices are cheaper on eBay
(https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=lyman+4500+lube+sizer&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=81535343077&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=s&hvrand=4944629342311619104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003990&hvtargid=kwd-4735101510&ref=pd_sl_3fxk732eob_b)

[Traffer]

Thanks John. Now I know what a lube sizer is. Unfortunately it is out of my price range. And it looks like something that I can't build myself. I will have to come up with another method. I think it was LAGS who made a multiple holed sizer for 22LR cases out of a piece of flat stock with a bunch of good straight holes the proper size in it. I think he said he pounds the shells in and pounds them back out again. Basically that is how I do it only one at a time. lol $170 is about what I paid for all of my reloading tools put together. (Not counting the Drill presses and dremels)


Pictures of Lyman Lube Sizer & H&I die ... https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=lyman+4500+lube+sizer&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=81535343077&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=s&hvrand=4944629342311619104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003990&hvtargid=kwd-4735101510&ref=pd_sl_3fxk732eob_b

Prices are cheaper on eBay
(https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=lyman+4500+lube+sizer&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=81535343077&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=s&hvrand=4944629342311619104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003990&hvtargid=kwd-4735101510&ref=pd_sl_3fxk732eob_b)

[Traffer]

@Marshall
I know what you mean about the last bit of case getting stuck. It is very common and very annoying. I did make a resizing die that would size all way down that fixed most of that problem. It seems that some of the cases were getting stuck by the head also. Some had expanded heads that made it hard to close the last bit of the bolt and would not fully seat in a semi-auto. There are some commercially available dies that just might be the ticket for this problem. If I wasn't so poor I would get one myself. Several guys make them and some are sold on eBay. These are made for resizing the bullet while in the case but I figured that they would resize the case also if it was too big. I could be wrong. And maybe none of these will work. I have more experimenting to do to figure out exactly what is causing what we are talking about. I have also found that some of my bullets were too fat at the ogive causing me to have to crush them into the chamber with bolt pressure. But indeed there are several factors involved. Sorry about the poor structure of this post ...in a hurry can't edit. Here are some links:(there was another brand on eBay a few months ago. Can't find it now. But the picture showed a die that went all the way down to and around part of the head.)
http://www.gunblast.com/Paco2.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEmsBcAwho
http://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Long-Rifle-RELOADIN-FULL-LENGTH-RESIZING-DIE-SHELL-HOLDER-22-LR-22L-22SH-/261992560947?hash=item3cfff93933:g:oC4AAOSw3ydVwMJ t

[LAGS]

On the Sharpshooter Die.
I pull the inside sizer pin out.
Pound the case into the die once the case has been run thru the resizer in the press on the shell holder, then pound the case out with a wodden dowel.
If lubed, then it doesnt screw up the rim.
But it takes that last little buldge out.
Dont pound it into the die too much or with a lot of force.
Sort of like the Wack a Mole Lee dies
Also, check how much the die is sizing the casing.
I had to polish my die out a bit to get it to resize to the proper diameter.

[Traffer]

@LAGS
Is that the mold/die from sharpshooter or the separate sizing die from sharpshooter?

[LAGS]

That is the Sizing Die from sharpshooter.
Or you can make your own case sizer by drilling the right sized hole in a piece of 1/2" thick steel plate.
We didnt always have the Fancy tools that we have today.
Make do with what you have, your Budget will allow, and that fits your needs.
Just Think outside the box.

[Traffer]

As soon as I get one that is worth sending out I will send you one. I haven't been focusing on the case part of reloading for a while though because I have Eley primed cases and I have been working on the swaging dies for the bullets.

@Traffer,

Once you get your bullet swaging/sizing dies tuned in, would you care to make any of them for your "friends"? In the same way that you are not a chemist, I am not a machinist (nor do I play one one TV) ;-)

By-the-way, I have used the die set from 22lrreloader.com to resize fired/cleaned 22LR cases. It works pretty well, but does not resize all the way down to the rim. I have found that many cases have a slight bulge close to the rim that makes it hard to insert the case into the shellholder and/or makes it hard to chamber the finished round. A different die design that resizes all the way to the rim would be very helpful.

Marshall

[LAGS]

Since I am new to this 22 reloading.
May I ask where I can get Primed 22LR cases that you all talk about.
The priming compound or the other Re-priming methods work great, but I would like to step up my game.
I got the 22LR kit so I could figure out ways to reload 32 and .38 Rim fires

[John Boy]

May I ask where I can get Primed 22LR cases that you all talk about.There are no primed empty cases for sale anymore. I called several commercial reloaders to buy their cases - No, legal liability. I even called Aqula and was told if I put an order in for 500,000 primed empty cases - they would be sell them to me. That would come to about $10,000

[Traffer]

I dream about reloading 32 and 38 rimfire. Maybe even 44. Keep learning. I will help as much as I can. As far as primed cases, I got some that were from the early 80's from a guy. He has none left. That is about the only way to get them is to get real lucky and find someone who has some stashed away. He had them in sealed plastic bags. Even if you were to find some, the laws now make it almost impossible to ship them. That is probably why the manufacturers won't make them anymore. Maybe Trump will change the laws and they will start to sell them again. That is something to pray about. Do you have an old rim fire 32 or 38? I would like to get my hands on one before everyone converts them to center fire.



Since I am new to this 22 reloading.
May I ask where I can get Primed 22LR cases that you all talk about.
The priming compound or the other Re-priming methods work great, but I would like to step up my game.
I got the 22LR kit so I could figure out ways to reload 32 and .38 Rim fires

[LAGS]

I have a .32RF Leader Revolver, and Two .38 RF Prescott Revolvers from 1872.
The Prescotts are in Bad shape and I am remaking all the internal parts to get them to function.
But the one I bought for parts to fix the other because the barrell is so bad, I will put in a liner in the barrel and cylinder liners to convert it to 22 LR or .32 S&W.

[Traffer]

Is it possible to get brass for them? If you could get brass the rest can be done.


I have a .32RF Leader Revolver, and Two .38 RF Prescott Revolvers from 1872.
The Prescotts are in Bad shape and I am remaking all the internal parts to get them to function.
But the one I bought for parts to fix the other because the barrell is so bad, I will put in a liner in the barrel and cylinder liners to convert it to 22 LR or .32 S&W.

[LAGS]

I have one Box of Navy Arms 32 RF long for the Leader.
I paid $45 for it 20 years ago.
Saw some on Gun Broker going for $130 recently.
No luck on the .38 RF.
But the Prescott may end up just a wall hanger, and I will shoot the other in the Re Chambered Caliber.
I love to save these old guns from the scrap pile.
I may not be able to Restore them, but I can get most firing again in one form or caliber.
Like I say, I am not a Gunsmith, but more of a Firearms Recycler.

[Traffer]

Wow. time to learn how to make cases.


I have one Box of Navy Arms 32 RF long for the Leader.
I paid $45 for it 20 years ago.
Saw some on Gun Broker going for $130 recently.
No luck on the .38 RF.
But the Prescott may end up just a wall hanger, and I will shoot the other in the Re Chambered Caliber.
I love to save these old guns from the scrap pile.
I may not be able to Restore them, but I can get most firing again in one form or caliber.
Like I say, I am not a Gunsmith, but more of a Firearms Recycler.

[Stu-NC]

There are no primed empty cases for sale anymore. I called several commercial reloaders to buy their cases - No, legal liability. I even called Aqula and was told if I put an order in for 500,000 primed empty cases - they would be sell them to me. That would come to about $10,000

Was this recently? 10K is not that much spread out over a bunch of people, I would pop for $500+ of that to secure a load of these. That's 25,000 which I expect would be a lifetime supply. You think they would actually do this?

[Stu-NC]

Just powder coated a small test batch of 22lr bullets that I had dimensioned to compensate for the powder coat. My powder coating setup is in my sisters garage (not heated) It was 0 degrees Fahrenheit when I started. The toaster oven had a hard time getting up to 400 degrees lol. After powder coating they came out at .46" oal (not that critical) With ,2245" to .225" diameter. And all the heals that I measured came out at .2085". My calculations came out perfect. I can either load them as is or re-size them in another swaging die that I am in the process of making so they come out like glass. Otherwise I will size the entire bullet after loading them, giving only the bearing surface the nice glassy finish. I made a .032" wire holder in the punch out punch so that I can embed a short piece of wire in the nose. I made a little holder to hold them in the oven.
Here are some pictures:
182747182748182749

What does the powder coat do? Also, are you starting with a 40g bullet then drilling and swaging everything down? I read and reread the description but I'm fuzzy on the steps. I really need some lightweight bullets, but don't want to pop for dies just yet as I don't have the best shape and size worked out. BTW these are very nice, I'm jealous...

[Traffer]

There would still be no way to disperse them. They have to be sent by a special hazmat shipper every where they go. That adds so much expense to the cost that it would erase the deal.

Was this recently? 10K is not that much spread out over a bunch of people, I would pop for $500+ of that to secure a load of these. That's 25,000 which I expect would be a lifetime supply. You think they would actually do this?

[Traffer]

Powder coating erases the need to lube the bullet. It erases the need to make little cuts or holes around the bullet to hold the lube. Powder coating allows the bullets to slide through the barrel easier. They will potentially allow the use of larger diameter bullets. I haven't gotten to the point of producing match grade ammo yet but powder coating should allow the creation of the most accurate bullet available.
The ones that I am producing are a little under 40 grains. Probably about 37 - 38 grains. I haven't been weighing them. But I can change my set up to make them bigger or smaller if I want.


Was this recently? 10K is not that much spread out over a bunch of people, I would pop for $500+ of that to secure a load of these. That's 25,000 which I expect would be a lifetime supply. You think they would actually do this?

[M-Tecs]

There would still be no way to disperse them. They have to be sent by a special hazmat shipper every where they go. That adds so much expense to the cost that it would erase the deal.

Primed cases do not require hazmat shipping.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/mailing-shipping-primed-brass-the-regs-and-the-law.3812580/

[Traffer]

I called fedex several times and emailed them. One of their authorities called back and informed me that primed rim fire cases had to be shipped by a hazmat shipper. The price was so high for my concerns I didn't even bother to remember what it was. It may be that rim fire is in a different category center fire or the rules have changed again. But that is what I was told only a few months ago.

Primed cases do not require hazmat shipping.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/mailing-shipping-primed-brass-the-regs-and-the-law.3812580/

[John Boy]

Was this recently? 10K is not that much spread out over a bunch of people, I would pop for $500+ of that to secure a load of these. That's 25,000 which I expect would be a lifetime supply. You think they would actually do this?
* The cases were purchased early in 2011
* If the offer is still open,a telephone call to verify could be made, then someone would have to honcho the sale of them and they would be in 5000 cases per box... https://www.aguilaammo.com/contact
(Info@AguilaAmmo.com)