Parkerizing your military rifle?

[6bg6ga]

Recently put together an Israeli Heavy Barrel FAL and the kit contained some parts which some person tried to paint. I was told its a green color of parkerizing but to my eyes it looks gray with maybe the exception of the bipod. So, does anyone know what color parkerizing it should be? Also, would like to parkerize the lower receiver and the metal hand guards. Has anyone done this? Have info to share?

[Lead Fred]

Two different colors, green and black.
Since its already been painted. Just get some Duracoat Parkerizing.
Looks the same, lasts way longer, and is water proof.

[6bg6ga]

To the best of my knowledge Duracoat doesn't make parkerizing its nothing but a simple paint. I really don't want to duracoat it. Really wanted to hear from someone who has parkerized their military firearm.

[Uncle Grinch]

I've had a couple of Mausers parkerized by Texas Armament.

[6bg6ga]

Ok, I want to do it myself.

[Scharfschuetze]

You'll need long heating tanks (long enough for the length of your longest piece) and propane burners that reach lengthwise below the tanks for even heating. You'll also need water tight plugs for your muzzle and chamber to keep the solution out of the bore.

Colors can vary from grey to black to a faint olive green depending on the chemicals you use. The US Military used all three colors at various times from the early 20s until the process was abandoned.

It's been years since I've done it. The EPA is death on it and hot bluing due to the chemicals involved. They are considered HAZMAT and that is probably why it is not done too much anymore. I once did a Remington 870 shotgun and a couple of rifles with a friend who had a set up for it in his warehouse.

There should be some "how to" vids or articles on the internet.

[Powder Burn]

Check out Brownells for zinc phosphate parkerizing. I've parked a number of items on my M1's. There are different kits for different colors green/black. Pretreatment (sand blasting) surface prep are key along with time and temperature of bath. Lots of info out there to search. I used a stainless steel coffee pot for most of my small parts.

[lancem]

Parkerized a bunch of stuff, two colors, grey and black. The green everyone searches for has pretty much been determined to have been caused by long term contact with cosmoline. You'll need hot tanks, around 190 degrees, phosphoric acid, usually found in the hardware stores as a rust remover or rust converter, distilled water, and either zinc powder (for gray) or manganese powder for black. I'm out of town right now so I don't have my formula handy but basically you make an acidic solution, heat it, had some of the appropriate powder, mix, throw in some degreased steel wool to activate the solution then cook your parts for 20 minutes, then rinse in clear water then oil. In my experience the ratios seem to matter little, I have gotten the same results using too much acid, too much powder, and from what I've read war time solutions were used until they did not produce the results required and that colors achieved changed from the beginning of the batch to the last. The photos show what I started with and how they turned out. Bead blasting or sand blasting is a real plus as it helps expose more surface area to be done. PM me if you want more info once I get home.

[Moleman-]

Zinc is gray and manganese is charcoal gray to almost black depending on the alloy and hardness of the steel being parkerized. It's not a hard process to do, but prep is key. Degrease, abrasive blast, degrease, parkerize at 180-200 degrees, dip in cold water then inspect- if the coverage isn't good then back in the tank, if good spray it off with WD40. Don't breathe the steam coming off of the tank, outdoors is best, wear eye and hand protection and never touch the parts once degreased with your bare hands. Don't let the parts dry once you take them out of the solution which it'll want to do or you'll get iron streaking (white areas). That's why I use the cold water dip. It removed the solution to stop iron streaking, and it will let you inspect the parts. Heck I've even noticed some uneven abrasive blasting finish and was able to spot blast, degrease and then put it back in the tank. You can make/use a tank out of SS, steel (it'll use up some of the solution the first time you use it as the tank will parkerize) porcelain or plastic. It just has to be able to handle near boiling water and not react with acid. So no aluminum, copper, brass, galvanized ect. Porcelain cook wear will eventually react, but is fine for limited use. I've parkerized M1 Garands, Carbines, FAL, pistols, AR barrels, parts, and some I'm sure I'm forgetting. I made the last two burner tubes with just a BBQ type regulator and some 3/4" gas pipe with hole drilled in it. Small parts I usually just do in a SS pot on the camping stove. Here's a couple pics of prepped ar15 barrels I made last year that were parkerized with Palmettto brand Manganese solution. The AR15 (top one) is a SS barrel (44x1.6") and the AR10 is a 44x1.8" that was parkerized with the same Manganese solution. The ar15 barrels have Teflon coated barrel extensions on them, so I masked them off with electrical tape while blasting and Parkerizing. It'll keep for years if you don't let it freeze or dry out.

[Lead Fred]

Duracoat is FAR from simple paint. Ive parkerized rifles for years. It s real pain.

Here is the stuff you need.

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=610

[6bg6ga]

I appreciate the info from those experienced in parkerizing. I have duracoated and ceracoated before and its simply NOT the finish I want on my FAL. I watched the videos available on the web and it doesn't look all that hard to do. The barrel is already parkerized and its in good condition and the upper receiver I don't want to change the color let alone try to plug the barrel which I don't think would be all that necessary because it chrome lined and would self clean after a few rounds going thru it. My main goal is to do the lower receiver and the grip pieces that have been moronically painted in the past. I also realize its a summer thing which makes it necessary to have proper air flow and probably some type of mask along with apron and gloves. I did spend a small amount of time in a plating dept of a factory I was employed by years ago so I have an idea about proper safety and safety equipment. Thanks for all the info.

[Moleman-]

The first Imbel kit I parked had a little handling wear so I parkerized the kit and used a new Imbel receiver. The zinc Parkerizing color was off just a bit which bugged me so I took the receiver off and parkerized it to match. I parkerize year round with the overhead pole barn door open. Takes a little longer in the winter and there is more water loss, but that's about it. You may want to boil the parts in TSP or similar before any steps to get any grease or oil out that will want to seep out once it gets hot in the park tank. I had that happen with recoil tubes and gas blocks the FALs. If you do get any oil contamination in the solution it needs to be removed. Some will say the solution is ruined, but I've had good luck just laying some paper towels across the entire surface of the fluid which soaks up the top layer along with any oil. Almost anyone can get a decent parkerized finish if they do a decent prep.

[justashooter]

I have parkerized dozens of guns and have usually used the palmetto manganese phosphate solution. This results in a dark green/black color finish. After Parkerizing use a hot water rinse followed by dunking in WD-40, hanging till dry, followed by hand applying Pennzoil axle grease. Put in black trash bag in sunshine, then remove 3 days later and use paper towels to remove grease until the metal seems dry. The grease gives the Parkerizing a satin sheen that has an irradescent greenish nature.

Parkerizing can be done in stainless tanks over propane, or in large diameter pvc pipe with a water heater element. The key is to get about 190* in your soak. A presoak in tri-sodium-phosphate at 160* is ideal. Best practice is to go directly from sand blasting to dried air blast to pre-soak then park. Handle with cotton gloves after blasting to avoid leaving body oil on parts that will prevent Parkerizing from occurring.

You can parkerize in an unheated detached garage with minimal ventilation. Parkerizing is not as dangerous as bluing. The temps are lower and you are not evaporating salt bearing liquids, so your building's metal work is not compromised. The gasses produced are not as toxic as bluing gasses. The acid process involved in Parkerizing is not as strong as in a plating shop.

http://www.palmettoenterprises.net/Palmetto_Enterprises/-About_Palmetto_Enterprises-.html

[747 captain]

Brownells sells epoxy spray on coatings