is Triple 7 corrosive like Pyrodex?????

[Depreacher]

Shot my 1860 Uberti a few day ago with triple 7, CCI caps, and didn't clean it for 3 days. Yep, three whole days. I have used pyrodex before and it was very corrosive, like the old Italian caps were. Anyway, Cleaned it with the goop method and see no rust whatsoever. 30 Years ago my buddies and I would disassemble a BP revolver, wipe a thin layer of army cosmoline (yes, its yucky) on internal parts, hammer, trigger, cyl pin, and inside bbl. We then used the cosmoline for lube over the balls. You could shoot all day (100-200 shots without cleaning. Well, maybe relubing the cyl pin once, and get away with it. We would sometime shoot them several days until we HAD to clean them. We would always wipe the outside down with gun oil or sometimes just WD-40, when we put them up for the day. When the day was over (shooting turtles on Red River) we were black, greasy, and happy.
I noticed that using Triple 7 instead of my usual FFF (shooting full loads) that the recoil seemed more, and that sometimes the last ball to be shot would have backed out of the chamber enough to not want to go under the bbl. This has never happenen with FFF. I always got away with .451's but may have to go to .454 and just pull on the lever more.
Shot my first BP revolver 50 years ago, this year. I had bought an original 36 cal. Manhatten ($35.00) with about 50% blue, and a good bore. The gun store owner said I couldn't put enough FFF in it to blow it up. He was right. If you are ever in a gunfight with a BP revolver, remember the old preachers (that's me) saying: "A Walker can swallow a cap, and keep on firing. An 1860, can swallow a cap, and be forced to fire most times. An 1851 can swallow a cap, and you're dead meat!!! We found this to be true from years of shooting good copies of these revolvers at Turtles on Red River. Naturally, the 1858's and Ruger old armys had almost no spent cap troubles.
I've had a worthless but fun life. HA! It's 10:33. G'night ....... Preacher

[northmn]

I think all the BP stuff can be corrosive. The corrosion depends somewhat on hunidity as well. I have even left BP in a gun uncleaned for more than a day with no bad results, but do not like to. It is said modern steels do not corrode as easily as the originals. Sounds like your having fun. good luck good shooting.

Northmn

[idahoron]

You shoot turtles?
Ron

[omgb]

T7 will only really corrode if you get silly and use an amonia based cleaner. Don't do that...really.

The balls are backing out because the load is hot. Back off maybe 10% or a tad more until the bark is the same as pyro or BP. T7 will produce a white ring ahead of the ball after a few shots. If you see that, just wipe with water and it dissolves.

[Maven]

CBpreacher, What is the "goop method" of cleaning?

[Depreacher]

To IDAHORON: That was before I got saved. Besides, they growled at us.

[Depreacher]

Maven, Look back in your American Riflemans to the Dec 1995 issue for an article by C.E. Harris on page 34 (i can't believe how long I keep magazines). It is a good primer for beginning C&B shooters. I'm not saying you are a beginner. OK? On page 57 is the cleaning part. Remove cyl and all nipples. clean with goop, or go-jo on bristle brush in each chamber, then use paper towels to get the crud out. Same with bbl. Do clean nipples in water though. Then spray WD-40 (keep that little red tube) through each and every one. Use toothbrush with goop in all crevices. I don't completely disassemble the revolver when I use this quick method. the hand cleaner has enough lanolin (or whatever) to protect the fire arm. If some accidentally gets in the internals it won't hurt. This is NOT for long term storage of course, but is handy on camping trips, and easier on you. Keep a small jar of Goop, bristle brush, paper towels, and a tiny spray bottle of WD-40 with you on camping trips to keep your old Dragon breath revolver happy. Toothpicks will help on cleaning the nipple holes. Carry a small steel pick in case you break off a toothpick in one.
Normally, I clean with warm soapy water, then clean water, then gun oil with grease on the cylinder pin, The oulde fashioned way. But, the goop method will get you out of a jam. Once, while on the River we ran out of cosmoline and covered the balls with goop for the rest of the afternoon. It worked fairly well, at least, we never got a crossfire. BTW, after shooting goop, the barrel cleaned right up when the water hit it that night. If you can't be happy shooting a good C&B, you just can't be happy. De Preacher

[Maven]

CBpreacher, Thanks for the tip about "Goop." And I thought it was just for cleaning your hands and clothes! Who'd a thunk it's good for BP residue too?

[Depreacher]

Just looked at the ingredients on the Goop jar. First is isoparafins (that's good). Second is WATER (that's bad)!!! As I said, good to get you out of a jam, or on camping trips. Keep your eyes peeled for corrosion/rust. For me, so far so good. No problems, SO FAR!

[Smokin_Gun]

Hi Folks just found this forum. Heard you talkin' bout 777 & BP so thought I'd speak up.
777 ffg is 15% hotter than goex fffg BP. http://www.curtrich.com/BPConversionSheet.htm
Tell ya a short story and why I still swear by Black Powder.
Have a Pietta 1860 Army, about 10 years old starting to loosin' up a hair, shim on top on arbor to barrel assy. and shim in front of wedge. Well I desided to make a new wedge and went to test my progress and hardness of steel I used. Ran out of Goex BP so got talked into 777 ffg not 777fffg which is hotter yet. Fired the first 3 rounds with 28gr 777 everything seemed ok, stuff was definately hotter though. Fired the last 3 rounds and the last one felt funny. I looked at my Rev no wedge, got knocked out. Bent down to pick it up from the dirt stood up to see my barrel assy. swing on the arbor...yup sheared both frame pins clear off.
So I use BP still same as I have for 30 some years. 777 ffg is good stuff, but in moderation I say.But I don't use it no more...HeeHee!
Thanks for listening.

SG