Some molds stick bullets...

[sukivel]

Some of my moulds have a hard time dropping bullets, and some drop right out. I can't figure the difference. All of my moulds are aluminum. Do brass or steel moulds have this problem? A couple of my moulds are just not fun to cast with cause thy are so hard to drop them suckers.

[ShooterAZ]

Sometimes you just need to figure out the sweet spot in terms of alloy and temperature. I use a notebook and keep track of such stuff. If your molds have burrs on them that could cause it too, take a q-tip and find the rough spots. Then VERY carefully remove the burrs.

[Soundguy]

Do you use any release agent?

I candle all my molds, release well, and no buildup like son spray release agents can cause.

All of mine are aluminum except one iron one.

[country gent]

Some of it is bullet desighn, some is manufacturing, Lube grooves with square shoulders grip more than rounded grooves, wide flat noses have more "grip", Angled surfaces release easier as do round nose or ogive type noses. The moulds surfaces also come into this equation. rough surfaces sharp corners grip more than smooth and lightly radioused corners do. Some polish sticky moulds with a bullet and polishing compound, tooth paste, or even comet. This i done the same as lapping a mould and polishes smooths rough surfaces. Sometimes experimenting with allot temps mould temps and cadence help. Another is getting the mould broke in and the patina on them that helps bullets to drop. Look at the surfaces with a magnifying glass or jewelers loop look for rough surfaces sharp square corners and edges. Then cast 3-4 times with them and see if they get better if not then a light polish may be needed. Some of the break in can be done heat cycling the blocks on a hot plate. Heat them to around 350*-400* on a hot plate and let cool to room temp 3 times this helps to get the patina forming and season them some.

[gwpercle]

First try the Q-Tip test. Run a dry Q-Tip around the boolit cavity, edges , inside and out , if there are any burrs the cotton will snag it. Remove any burrs.
Second, Get Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant , either the liquid ( in a bottle) or spray. Liquid is easier to control , give the cavity, top of blocks , underside of sprue plate and top of sprue plate a thin coat with Q-Tip dipped in LWDL . Let dry a minute and give it a second thin coat. If using spray, give these areas a good spray , shake of excess and let dry.
Heat mould and start casting. The LWDL makes the boolits want to jump out of the cavities. Removing small burrs is also critical.
I store my moulds sprayed with LWDL , this stuff realy helps a balky dropper, especially the aluminum moulds ( Lee)
Gary

[John Boy]

Sukivel ... read the post from Country Gent carefully.
The words in his post is from an experienced caster!
Additional possibilities:
* Mold halves not mated exactly - close the mold, hold to a light source. If you see light anywhere in themold, they are not mated exactly. If you can wiggle the handles, the handles lock nut needs tightening
* Mold pins - always need to be lubed. Paraffin works good as the lube
* If the dropped bullet has lines, it is a good indication the mold handles are not being held tightly during the pour
And if you feel that every mold will gravity drop the bullet - falsehood! I cast with over 100 molds regularly and the majority need 2 or 3 whacks with the hickory stick on the handle side that the bullet is 'stuck' on

[ShooterAZ]

Please don't ever whack your molds with a hickory stick! Lightly tap the handle hinge pin maybe, but not the mold halves or elsewhere on the handles.