need some help

[DCB]

Beginner, Hoping for some experienced help. Mix is 4.6# pure lead, 6 oz. lead free wire solder 95% tin and 5% antimony . my thought is a #2 with a BHN of 15. I think? about 5# 2oz. total. The problem I have is making a good bullet, new lee 200gr .429, 2 cavity. the bullets look cold, shiny but with voids, temp around 710* took it up to 750* and the pour was better. one cavity does not fill out well and the other was a lot better with only a few small voids any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Was it just a heat issue or is it the mix? Thanks Dave

[montanamike]

Welcome to the forum. Always glad to see a new caster. First thing is, your alloy has almost no antimony. It's pretty close to 20-1 probably around 11 bhn . That being said it might work just fine for what you want to do. As for the wrikles in the boolits either the cavities still have some residual machining oil in them or your mold is not hot enough. I like to spray mine with alcohol and scrub them with a toothbrush. Try that first. If that doesn't take care of the problem just keep casting til they go away (don't be afraid to get the mold hot, youll know when you get there as the sprues will take forever to solidify. eventually any impurities I'll burn out). Hope you get it figured out.

Mike

[Half Dog]

I experienced the same thing but that lead to developing a routine. My resolution:
Clean the molds
Season them (cycle to casting temperature 3 times)
Get them hot prior to casting
Squeeze the snot out of the handles while pouring

I hope this helps.

[sqlbullet]

More heat in the mold.

I have said this before, I will say it again.

Every new caster I have taught does the same thing. They cast their first mold full of lead and drop the bullets, then stand there for 60 seconds looking at them and wondering about the wrinkles. Then they repeat.

After about 10 casts, they get frustrated cause the wrinkles don't go away. You gotta keep hot lead in the mold to keep the heat up. Cast 10-20 casts as fast as the sprues cool. Just dump them back in the pot. The first 10 or so casts for me, every time, are to heat the mold. Even when I leave it on top the pot while the pot heats, I need to do this to even out the temps.

Only time I don't need to do this is when I get impatient and use a MAP torch to preheat the sprue plate and mold. Then I end up with sprues that take 2 minutes to solidify cause my sprue plate is way too hot.

Best remedy for this is a hotplate, as you can get and keep the mold at the perfect temp. Or so I read. Never tried it myself. I just put in the wasted casts and then start saving bullets after 10 or so casts.

[DCB]

I will clean and preheat the mold. drop more batches. I have a hotplate that should help.
What about the mix. I have pure lead, wheel weights and a couple pounds of 50/50 solder. What would be a good blend from these?
DAve

[montanamike]

The alloy you made will probably work fine. If you want it a touch harder you can mix it 50/50 with wheel weights. What are you going to be shooting it in?

[DCB]

I will use my model29 for the 44mag and I also have a 45auto I will try.
How much 50/50 and wheel weights would you use for a 5#to 10# batch.
Thanks Dave

[OS OK]

179832

Want to look at the boolits, take a break...whatever, just put the mold back onto the hot plate and do whatever.
You can cast good boolits from the very first quite often...get that mold to 400*F. and you'll be good to go.
This 1,500 watt hot plate is set to 1/2 heat on the knob and I shoot it with the electronic thermometer to make sure.

Yesterday I got in a hurry and the temp. was only 325*F. and all was fine also...#2 cast was perfect.

[Yodogsandman]

I will use my model29 for the 44mag and I also have a 45auto I will try.
How much 50/50 and wheel weights would you use for a 5#to 10# batch.
Thanks Dave

2% tin (Sn) is plenty to mix with clip on wheel weights (COWW). So, #10 x 16 oz =160 oz. 160 oz x .02 =3.2 oz tin. Remember to double the 50/50 weight because it only contains 50% tin so, 3.2 oz x 2 =6.4 oz 50/50 solder.

[DCB]

Thanks I will see how it all turns out.

[runfiverun]

don't get all wrapped up in a bunch of tin.
1% is waay more than enough.

the key as has been said is mold Temp.

I was casting with a ladle and a 4 cavity core mold making 50gr cores today.
since I open the mold by hand and the mold is bolted to the table [hanging out in the breeze] you can imagine the fun I was having for a bit.
the torch done a nice job of pre-heating everything [be very careful attempting to use a torch] but dipping the corner of the mold in the alloy just until it doesn't stick does the same thing I just don't have that option.

SQL Bullet.
you took me back in time for a bit there.
especially since I'm listening to some old 80's tunes tonight.

[DCB]

Back at this morning. It took a lot of trial and error. kept working on the temp and after a bit started making some fine looking bullets. I did two batches one was the original mix and they were cast perfectly. The second batch was with 1/2 my original mix and 1/2 wheel weights. the second batch was good as well but they were gray in color. Weight several from each batch and they were from 201.5grs to 202.5 grains.
Thanks for the help. Now I need to load up see how they shoot.
Dave

[montanamike]

Glad to hear you got it figured out. The grey is just from the antimony. Being frosty isn't bad. Some of my molds won't make a good boolit until I get them hot enough to be frosty. There is such a thing as too frosty. If they start coming out almost glittery the mold is too hot and your boolits are probably dropping undersized.

[runfiverun]

that grey color is perfect.
if you look you can see the details in the mold.
if it's a cherry cut mold you'll even see the swirls from the cutting process.