Where To Find R.E.A.L. Bullets?

[Fiddleharp]

I've heard good things about them. Is there somewhere I can buy some to try, or must I mold my own?

[bubba.50]

nobody that I know of sells the bullets. ya might find somebody on evil-bay or gunbroker or similar places that would have some to sell. the moulds are only 19 bucks at midsouth. what calibers do ya need?

[rancher1913]

go to "our town" and post in helping hands. it helps if you are friends with georgeonedollar.

[Fiddleharp]

Thanks for the quick responses!
I've been trying different loads and bullets in my new-to-me Lyman .50 Deerstalker, but can't seem to get what you'd call a "group" at fifty yards.
I've tried patched round balls, saboted bullets, and 350gr. Buffalo conicals pushed by Pyrodex fffg, Goex Pinnacle ffg, and even some ffg real black powder I finally found (what an ordeal that was!).
My rest system is two converted camera tripods. Each is topped with a wooden block with a "V" cut into its top and lined with leather, one supporting the forearm, the other supporting the buttstock. I know this setup is rock-steady because I often perfectly sight-in scoped deer and .22 rifles with it.
Although this Lyman Deerstalker is used, the barrel seems to be in good shape, as is the rest of the gun. I always swabbed it between shots while trying to work up the best load. The first shot of the day with a clean barrel was always the best. Then the next ones started wandering high, low, left, and right. Not very far, just enough to be annoying.
I figured the only thing left to try is R.E.A.L. bullets, hence my question.

[rodwha]

Contact DD4lifeumc. He sold me some 320 grn Lee REALs to try in my Deerstalker. Assuming he still has the mold and still is selling cast projectiles. He has very reasonable prices and deals fairly.

You'll likely need some felt wads. My first shot was about a foot left and several inches low. It was obvious it had keyholed at 50 yds. The next two were nearly touching and just below the bull. That's when I bought a mold myself.

I had wanted to try them just to see mostly. I was curious as this 320 grn projectile pushed by 70 grns of 3F Triple 7 or Olde Eynsford should somewhat replicate a .45-70 as far as recoil goes. But I also figured it's what I'd want if I ever got a chance at elk or something big.

I've not tried various patch lubes or thicknesses, nor have I tried many charge variations, but I haven't had a great group yet with a ball either. But then it's barely broken in now and I was using 70 grns of powder as 50 seemed puny and 100 seemed a waste so I settled on 70. But then I was also using the crappy Pyrodex my father gave me.

According to Lyman the grooves are about 0.520" for the blued model meant for PRB, and the stainless has 0.510" meant for sabots. You'll want your wads a bit over this size for a good seal.

[rodwha]

Out of curiousity what bullets have you used? What patch thickness and size ball?

[GoexBlackhorn]

I've heard good things about them. Is there somewhere I can buy some to try, or must I mold my own?

His name is Choo and making/selling REALs for many years..
ccmountainman@gmail.com

[Fiddleharp]

Out of curiousity what bullets have you used? What patch thickness and size ball?
The balls are Hornady .490" and the patches are apparently yellow & blue pillow ticking, but unfortunately, I must've thrown away the label, so I don't know their thickness. Those round balls give me the worst accuracy, with wild flyers all over the place! The best accuracy I've achieved so far is with T/C Cheap Shot saboted bullets and 80gr. of 2f real black powder, fired from a squeaky-clean barrel. I wouldn't be afraid to hunt with that load. However, I'd still like to achieve a "group" at some point in time, just to make myself feel better. By the way, this Lyman rifle is equipped with a peep sight.

[triggerhappy243]

what is the twist rate on that?

[rodwha]

1:48" twist with either type of barrel.

[rodwha]

Did you use a felt wad with the other conical?

Which barrel do you have?

[Fiddleharp]

Did you use a felt wad with the other conical?

Which barrel do you have?
Blued barrel, no felt wad (yet).

[Tackleberry41]

nobody that I know of sells the bullets. ya might find somebody on evil-bay or gunbroker or similar places that would have some to sell. the moulds are only 19 bucks at midsouth. what calibers do ya need?

Only $20 huh? When has any of us simply bought a mold and that was the end of it?

[Lead pot]

It's awfully hard not to be able to shoot a good group using a round ball :) They do a fine job putting the deer down too.

[rfd]

I've heard good things about them. Is there somewhere I can buy some to try, or must I mold my own?

i have a like-new lee combo mould that does a .490 ball and a 320 grain REAL - you can have it for the $10 priority price of shipping.

https://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/320x240/Primary/362/362053.jpg

[OverMax]

A button wad under conical ball does help in accuracy occasionally.
Lots of avenues to follow when experimenting with charges & boolit weights. Some barrels like a tight conical ball and other don't. Some prefer B/P verses substitutes. Others don't. Can't say what the problem is without being there. But assuredly what your going thru too find the sweet spot loading for your rifle is without a doubt a learning curve we all par take in. I think the best way to proceed is by finding out what the rifles manufacture suggests for your shooting pleasure. Powder/bullet weight & preferred brands including patch thickness. You might consider buying your patches lubed or plain from Ox-Yoke. Good Luck & enjoy that dandy rifle of your's.

There you go. A Lee mold with both cast projectiles you can make use of.

[triggerhappy243]

RFD, is that $10.00 plus shipping

[too many things]

is that HYJACKED:Fire:

[Omnivore]

fiddleharp; I have the Lyman 50 cal Deerstalker also. Between my son and I, we've killed more than a few deer with it as well. I too have tried a bunch of different loads, but quickly settled on a 100 grains of Pyrodex and a very tight-fitting round ball. We killed a few deer with that,m but I then went to 110 grains of Goex 2F, and have used that for years now, taking all of my deer with that since.

I've tried the REALs, and at fifty yards I can get cloverleafs, but at 100 they're less accurate then my tight round ball load. I use a .495" ball, but I don't recall the patch thickness. It is for sure LESS thick than pilloow ticking, I know that much for sure, because I have some ticking I've had for years and it's too thick for the .495s.

I swab between shots-- A cold clean bore will shoot to a different POI than a fouled bore, so for hunting you always test your load using a cold clean bore for every shot. Target shooters and plinkers will sometimes scoff at this practice, but that's because they don't understand what we're talking about here. You don't need, nor do you necessarily want, a load that you can shoot and shoot and shoot without swabbing. All that matters is that one shot. If yuou happen to stumble on a load that shoots to the same POI atr 100n yards or more whether the barrel is cold and clean, or whether it's warmed up and fouled, then by all means let us know about it.

If you can shoot other iron sighted rifles well at 100 yards, but not your Deerstalker with a good tight patched ball load, then you'd best look more closely for defects in the rifle, particularly at the muzzle, but check everything. Are both of the sights actually secure?

We need to discuss that tripod contraption too. Such gizmos I have tried and tried, and I would hope that you'd believe me when I tell you they're a waste of effort. Concentrate on your field shooting positions, and ye will be a happier hunter. Leave the bench and chair and tripods, and who knows what else, out for the garbage truck. If you think about it objectively for just a little bit, you'll realize that you don't carry that junk out with you when that one shot really counts anyway. Use the opportunity that load teswting presents, to practice your shooting positions. Take another rifle along, which you know for a fact you can shoot, and use THAT as your baseline in your various shooting positions. I think you get the drill.

And lets discuss your ignition too. Now that I think back; when I first started with this rifle I was getting hangfires (Ka-BANG instead of BANG). That'll throw off your shots due to the time lag (although flintlock shooters would tell you that you're simply not discliplined enough). Proper cleaning of the breech chamber (which you should know is of a smaller diameter than the bore, or more like 35 caliber) and proper loading (mostly with real black, which ignites more easily) will cure that. And so there are a lot of variables involved, and that means you may or may not be on the right track in looking at the projectile as the culprit. I'd say not.

[Lead pot]

All of my M/L will shoot point of aim on the first shot fired. But I don't mess around shooting different loads when hunting. I have a load I know where it will hit when I raise the rifle.
My flintlock I seldom hear the cock hit the frizzen or the Hawken hitting the cap. I keep it ignition path clear.
I have a TC Renegade that has a faster twist then my other rifles and I shot the TC maxie balls in it and it shoots them very good but the round ball outshoots them at all ranges.
I think a lot of the accuracy problem starts with the shooter not really knowing his rifle. This time of year I see guys bringing out their Inlines and other front stuffers as well as shot guns shooting a few rounds for the start of hunting season in a few days. Here where I live we cant use cartridge rifles during deer season so these people pull out their front stuffers that have been in the closet or maybe hanging on the wall since last year and put their lead sled on the bench and shoot maybe 10 shots and pack up and go home. Makes me wonder if they carry their lead sleds along and drag it up on the tree stand with them. They never shoot these rifles enough to know where to hold the sights when the game shows up.
I have asked some what they use for a load and I hear 150 grains and more some times. Why????? The way you seat the ball is what changes the impact. Pounding on the ball once it's down on the powder changes the compression and inturn changes the impact. Get a feel seating the ball and put a mark on the rod when the ball is seated with the load you settled on so you know your ball is on the powder.

I carry a walking stick because I still hunt or stalk. I like to still hunt and take a few steps, like a deer out feeding, they only take a few steps with their nose on the ground and they don't get alarmed to much if they hear steps going through leaves crunching or noise in snow and lean on a tree looking for horns or ears above the grass for bedded Deer. The walking stick will steady my rest as good as a tree for a good shot placement. Messing around with tri pods when you need to make a shot is not ideal.
Find a load during the off season and stick with it and shoot your rifle enough so you learn where to hold the sights and all will be well. :)

[GoexBlackhorn]

All of my M/L will shoot point of aim on the first shot fired. :)

Let me guess...... you use Bore Butter / Wonderlube in your bore. Am I correct?

If not, then please outline your ritual to achieving the same target holes on your 1st clean bore shot - then again on your 2nd fouled bore shot.

[Lead pot]

:) no I don't use bore butter or any other stuff like wonderlube????never heard of that.
My patch lube has always been straight Vaseline smeared on one side of ticking or cotton twill or drill depending how tight I want the ball to fit the rifle. Or I use the hard Tallow I make from Deer fat or Buffalo if I have it and thin it down to, like a soft goose lard.
This lets me shoot a whole turkey shoot with easy loading. Without having to ram the ball all the way down the barrel to seat it in a fouled bore. I use the unscented kind for hunting.
Yes I know that it's a petroleum product :)