What do you use to preserve your molds?

[AbitNutz]

I have a lot of molds...Probably more than 50 that I've accumulated over the years. I expect many of you have more but to me, that's a lot. I have quite a few aluminum but also a fair amount of iron and a few brass.

I'm about to clean, label and store them. I bought one of those vacuum bag food storage machines.

I want to spray them down in a good preservative...what do you folks recommend?

I thought about Kroil or Ballistol...

[alamogunr]

I don't do anything to my aluminum & brass molds. The iron molds are stored in just about any container that will accommodate them. I throw a desiccant canister(comes in medication shipments-son is a pharmacist) into the container to eliminate any moisture and replace the desiccant about every 3-6 mo. Also, my shop is both heated and airconditioned. I haven't had any problems so far.

[marlin39a]

Nothing on aluminum. Kroil on my steel molds.

[Ickisrulz]

I use Eezox. I am impressed with the results of tests showing how well it protects against rusting. I use the liquid, not the spray.

I apply Eezox and thne place the molds in air tight containers with desiccant.

[AbitNutz]

Airtight is no problem. This vacuum food bagger thing is freakin' amazing. I think I have Eezox, Kroil and Froglube on hand...I'm going to be amazingly organized. Seal them in a lubed airtight bag, label each with my label maker and store in toolbox with pull out draws.

I just need to make a decision on what preservative oil to use. Watch, I'll end up using some exotic **** that is the equivalent to spray on rust.

[country gent]

I have used kroil oil, 2 cycle motor oils ( synthetic) And also paraffin. The kroil oil I swab a light coat on with a q tips and or flannel cloth, when done seal the flannel cloth up in a bag also as it pretreated for the next use. About the same with the 2 cycle oil coating. Just a light coat to perserve it. Paraffin is more work as the moulds need to be warmed enough to get it to flow over the surfaces. Sealing in a food type vacum sealed bag for storage should require only the thinnest of layers as it wont have alot of moisture to deal with and wont be getting rubed off from handling. One other I have used is good old grease lightly brush on a warmed mould and let flow out to create a thin even coating. Gease hangs good not flowing or running off like some oils do. Grease also will be easy to clean off when you want to use them again

[MT Gianni]

If they are going in to long term storage where moisture may be around red grease or any automotive grease works. No need for penetrating oils just a good grease to prevent air contact.

[Bob in St. Louis]

I agree with the automotive grease. A ziplock bag with the air squished out, and a liberal (I hate using that word) coat of grease will last generations. A full synthetic grease will last longer than "the ol fashion" kind, as it won't separate and get "weird".

[rwadley]

I use Ballistol on all my iron and steel moulds. I use denatured alcohol to clean the moulds before use.

[Yodogsandman]

I spray steel molds down with Kroil and place them in a zip lock bag with a little desiccant bag. For aluminum molds, I wipe the sprue plate with Kroil, sprue plate lube or gun oil then place in a zip lock bag with the little desiccant bag. Molds that aren't being used are kept in the house where it's heated and air conditioned.

[dragon813gt]

Don't own any iron molds. The steel parts on the molds I have are rubbed down w/ synthetic two stroke oil before I put them away. This way I just pull them out of the box and start casting. I have to oil everything at least annually because of where I live. Everything rusts if not oiled.

I would not trust the vacuum bags for long term storage. Molds have hard corners on them. The bag may hold initially. But over time the corners will cause the bag to fail. I've had them fail w/ food items to often to trust them for more than a year.

[longbow]

I oil all my moulds whether iron, brass or aluminum because I hate rust!

With all my iron moulds I also leave a boolit in each cavity so the oil is drawing in by capillary action and coats the cavities (most important part of the mould).

I oil aluminum and brass moulds not on the blocks but the sprue plates and alignment pins because they are steel and will rust. A rusty sprue plate will ruin the top of a mould in no time.

Some do well using desiccants, some using air tight containers, some use both and some don't do anything at all. I figure oil is the best whether the desiccant or air tight containers are used or not. It certainly doesn't hurt and is easily cleaned off. I never spend much time cleaning moulds off because I pre-heat until the sprue plate lube or remaining oil just starts to smoke then cast. It works for me.

I am very protective of my moulds so they get oiled. I have never had one rust.

Longbow

[Ammohouse]

I spray my mold down with Break Free CLP.
I'm not sure if thats the best way to do it.
Cleaning all that out has proven to be a pain.
I've actually cleaned them and then used my little torch to try burn any remaining off.
Im open to any suggestions on a better process...breakfree does protect them though.

[Bob in St. Louis]

I guess, ultimately, it would depend on how long they'll be stored, and where they'll be stored.
In your house for a few months wouldn't need much "prevention", but out in the garage/barn for a period of years will need a lot of T.L.C.

[Strtspdlx]

I spray my steel molds with a corrosion preventative that they sell for marine use. It comes in an aerosol can and is easily cleaned with laquer thinner and a paint brush or brake clean. It leaves a thin coating which is nice and is easily applied

[DHDeal]

Eezox on all of them. Never seen any rust on the ones that have been put away for years. After spraying them down, I wrap a paper towel around them and put them in small boxes.

[Iowa Fox]

Light film of kroil on all the steel stuff. I just use a torn off corner of a paper towel with a few drops to apply.

[Petrol & Powder]

Almost any oil/grease that prevents water & oxygen from reaching the surface of the iron will prevent rust but we all have our favorites.

If the mold is clean and a little warm (so that you know it's completely dry) you'll have better luck applying oil/grease.

I've had some bad experience with rust years ago and as a consequence, I'm very gun shy about potential rust. I'm also a bit old school.
For short term storage I like Kroil but honestly, any light oil would probably work.
For long term storage I use RIG. It has never let me down. Grease requires a bit more work to remove when you put the item back into service but that's a price I'm willing to pay to prevent rust.

[srtolly]

I only have a few molds since I only keep what I use. I wipe them down good with Remoil before I put them away. Preheat and start casting. Never had a problem till my basement flooded a month ago and I couldn't get to them for a couple weeks but they cleaned up well.

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[gwpercle]

I clean the mould , removing all lead smears , spatters and crud , using 0000 steel wool and wet-or-dry abrasive paper 400 grit , then spray it insides and out with Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant . Put them away until next session.
The Dry Lube doesn't contaminate cavities , so just preheat and start casting.
Gary

[Randy Bohannon]

While the iron mold is still warm almost hot and done casting I use a piece of paraffin wax and melt it inside and out.Let it cool put it away.