New style Lee molds, Can they be fixed?

[JohnH]

I have three of the new style two pin alignment style Lee molds. The pins have moved during usage on all three and they now cast out of round boolits. Is there a fix for this?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I'd 'move' the pins back to the correct position, then stake then into place.

[tomme boy]

Man we need a LIKE button. ^^^^^^^^^^

[country gent]

They can be repaired fairly easily by several means or methods. I as mentioned is to stake them in place and set them. Another is to remove them clean them and the holes, lightly rough up the surfaces and red or green loctite them in place at the correct setting, as once the loctite cures it will require heat to move them. You could tap the holes from the back side with a bottoming tap to the pins base, then install set screws to hold pin in location, this would make an adjustable pin set up. Start out shallow ad use the set screws to adjust pins out to length engagement. Fine thread set screws would give a nice adjustment range. In use with staking or a light peening it would make a very useable fix.

[mdi]

Remove pins and clean them (degrease). Use a prick punch or center punch and make some "dents" in the area that is inserted into the mold hole. Clean the holes (degrease), add a bit of locktite and insert the pins. The "dents" should make the pins tighter in the hole, depending on how many and how deep they are. (Common shop practice for making something "bigger"...).

But, the pins will expand much slower than the aluminum mold blocks and will prolly loosen up down the road...:(

[Echo]

Hmmm - I'm having the same problem with a new Lee 2-banger. The thread/set screw fix sounds awfully good - Hmmm...

[17nut]

They can be repaired fairly easily by several means or methods. I as mentioned is to stake them in place and set them. Another is to remove them clean them and the holes, lightly rough up the surfaces and red or green loctite them in place at the correct setting, as once the loctite cures it will require heat to move them. You could tap the holes from the back side with a bottoming tap to the pins base, then install set screws to hold pin in location, this would make an adjustable pin set up. Start out shallow ad use the set screws to adjust pins out to length engagement. Fine thread set screws would give a nice adjustment range. In use with staking or a light peening it would make a very useable fix.

Since we're dealing with molten lead that is a given!

[JohnH]

Since we're dealing with molten lead that is a given! Agreed

[Bodean98]

I have 3 of those type molds and have suffered the same malady as yours. I have tried the fixes mentioned above and have met with very limited success. The aluminum in the mold is just too soft to withstand the forces imposed during casting. Staking won't stay tight, screw thread won't stay tight and the fixative melts away. I have had better success by turning the mold blocks sideways after dumping boolits and GENTLY bring the blocks together in alignment before making the next pour. This is also sketchy because of the time involved varies and your casts are not very consistent.
The only surefire fix I have found is to gently lay the closed mold on it's side on the concrete floor and massage it with a 16# sledge until your frustrations have subsided and then go order a NOE or Accurate mold!!!:bigsmyl2:

[melloairman]

I have about 20 of the 2 banger new molds. Only had 1 that the pins moved in . Staked the pin holes and have not had any problem with it since . But I do not pre heat my molds on a hot plate nor over heat them in use . Marvin

[country gent]

I dont believe the mould will get hot enough to loosen green locktite in normal use. Part of the reason for this is mentioned above aluminum expansion rate is much higher than the steel pins are. I believe the tapping and set screws to block in position should do well. Another trick when closing the mould is to lightly rest blocks bottom surface on a flat rail. This helps to pre alighn the blocks and pins when closing up. New pins could be turned on the end of long set screws and holes threaded then set screws to lock them. But this would require a lathe to manufacture the new pins.

[JohnH]

I have 3 of those type molds and have suffered the same malady as yours. I have tried the fixes mentioned above and have met with very limited success. The aluminum in the mold is just too soft to withstand the forces imposed during casting. Staking won't stay tight, screw thread won't stay tight and the fixative melts away. I have had better success by turning the mold blocks sideways after dumping boolits and GENTLY bring the blocks together in alignment before making the next pour. This is also sketchy because of the time involved varies and your casts are not very consistent.
The only surefire fix I have found is to gently lay the closed mold on it's side on the concrete floor and massage it with a 16# sledge until your frustrations have subsided and then go order a NOE or Accurate mold!!!:bigsmyl2: I have used this answer and prolly will again soon. I miss the old style Lee molds. Were they perfect? No. But they were very servicable. I' have several that have cast on the order of 10,000 boolits with no adverse affects. I believe Lee went to the new style as a result of complaints here when they should have left well enough alone.

[dubber123]

I was delighted when LEE went to the new style 2 cavity. It's the same set up as their 6 cavity versions have always had, and between the new 2 cavs I have and my 6 cavs, I have at least a dozen. I have never had a pin move once. I know this doesn't help fix yours, but it kinda points to where the problem might stem from. My guess is a difference in how they are closed, I keep the pins well lubed, and close them gently, whether it's a $20 LEE or a $140 LBT. I was always taught if you can hear your mold close, you closed it too hard. I hope you get it figured out, good luck.

[rtracy2001]

To remove fasteners secured with green Loctite, heat to 428*F. (Loctite technical data sheet for Green 290)

I'm thinking setscrew or pin would be the best approach. Even peening to enlarge the pin seems like a bad idea. The raised metal around the peen might hold the pin or it might just gouge the hole, it depends on how hard the pin and aluminum are.

[MUSTANG]

They can be repaired fairly easily by several means or methods. I as mentioned is to stake them in place and set them. Another is to remove them clean them and the holes, lightly rough up the surfaces and red or green loctite them in place at the correct setting, as once the loctite cures it will require heat to move them. You could tap the holes from the back side with a bottoming tap to the pins base, then install set screws to hold pin in location, this would make an adjustable pin set up. Start out shallow ad use the set screws to adjust pins out to length engagement. Fine thread set screws would give a nice adjustment range. In use with staking or a light peening it would make a very useable fix.

I too have used Loctite for items that are exposed to some heat; but got to thinking of a question: "Molten Lead Alloys are near 800 degrees, how does that affect Loctitie:

Found this on MSDS's for Red and Blue Loctite.


Loctite Red 271: For disassembly: Heat parts up to 482°F (250°C) and separate parts while hot.

Loctite Blue 242: For disassembly: Shear with hand tools and remove with methylene chloride.

Found the following in bold Specification at URL:


http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/

All threadlockers have a broad temperature resistance of -65°F to 300°F, some going up to as high as 650°F.


Any information/thoughts on how it affects application of Loctite on threads of molds? I have had threads on aluminum molds (steel pins/bolts) freeze in place by galling, but never used Loctite on them.



Anyone else have their computers Keep Changing "Loctite" to lactate?