Walther GSP Trigger Adjustment

[hp246]

I just picked up a Walther GSP "Black Magic." According to the serial number, it appears to be approximately 1995 manufacture. No manuals or instructions with the gun. I expected more from the trigger. Quite a bit of creep before it breaks. I was told by the shop that I bought it from that the previous owner like that, and they would be more than happy to make necessary adjustments. Buuuuutttttt. I'd like to be able to make my own adjustments. An internet search for a manual or directions for adjusting the trigger were both negative. Anyone able to help me out with a written set of directions? Maybe an electronic version of the manual?

[John C]

Does your trigger pivot from the bottom, or the top? The bottom triggers are the older type, which are single stage. This is the manual for it: http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spwalgsp22o.htm

This is the newer, two stage trigger: http://www.carlwalther.com/two_stage.htm

Keep in mind that many top shooters are shooting with a "roll" trigger. This can feel creepy to those not in the know.

[hp246]

Does your trigger pivot from the bottom, or the top? The bottom triggers are the older type, which are single stage. This is the manual for it: http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spwalgsp22o.htm

This is the newer, two stage trigger: http://www.carlwalther.com/two_stage.htm


Keep in mind that many top shooters are shooting with a "roll" trigger. This can feel creepy to those not in the know.

I definitely have the newer type two stage trigger. It may be fine on slow fire, but there is waaaayyyyy too much movement required of the trigger before it engages for timed and rapid. It's been about 15 years since I shot bullseye. Sorry not familiar with the term "roll trigger."

[John C]

It sounds like your trigger is adjusted for a "roll". Basically, a roll trigger is he opposite of a crisp, single stage trigger. The idea is that for a crisp, "glass rod" type trigger, you're putting a certain amount of force on the trigger, waiting for it to fire the gun. When the trigger trips, and then stops at the trigger stop, you've just imparted a force equal to the trigger pull weight of the gun. This causes movement in the gun.

A roll trigger is the same weight all the way through a longer trigger pull. This way, two things happen. First, your trigger finger isn't slamming into the gun when the trigger trips. It's an even pull throughout the trigger press. You're holding the gun steady, while moving the trigger. Second, you can use the movement your trigger finger is putting on the trigger to "steer" the pistol to the final point of aim in your wobble zone.

Another way to understand a roll trigger is to think of it as all take up, and no wall. The gun fires as you steadily move the trigger to the rear. This is in contrast to putting increasing pressure on a single stage trigger until it breaks.

If you're looking for a crisp, "glass rod" break, I recommend tracking down a single stage Walther trigger. Luckily, they're cheaper than the two stage triggers. If not, you can turn the first stage of the trigger way down, and the second stage up to the weight you're looking for. This will mimic a single stage trigger, but with a fair amount of take up.

[hp246]

It sounds like your trigger is adjusted for a "roll". Basically, a roll trigger is he opposite of a crisp, single stage trigger. The idea is that for a crisp, "glass rod" type trigger, you're putting a certain amount of force on the trigger, waiting for it to fire the gun. When the trigger trips, and then stops at the trigger stop, you've just imparted a force equal to the trigger pull weight of the gun. This causes movement in the gun.

A roll trigger is the same weight all the way through a longer trigger pull. This way, two things happen. First, your trigger finger isn't slamming into the gun when the trigger trips. It's an even pull throughout the trigger press. You're holding the gun steady, while moving the trigger. Second, you can use the movement your trigger finger is putting on the trigger to "steer" the pistol to the final point of aim in your wobble zone.

Another way to understand a roll trigger is to think of it as all take up, and no wall. The gun fires as you steadily move the trigger to the rear. This is in contrast to putting increasing pressure on a single stage trigger until it breaks.

If you're looking for a crisp, "glass rod" break, I recommend tracking down a single stage Walther trigger. Luckily, they're cheaper than the two stage triggers. If not, you can turn the first stage of the trigger way down, and the second stage up to the weight you're looking for. This will mimic a single stage trigger, but with a fair amount of take up.

Thank you for the explanation. I just learned something. I've always preferred a crisp trigger pull. You did an excellent job with the glass rod analogy. Just how I've explained trigger pull. Guess I will have to put a few hundred rounds through it to see if I can make an adjustment. I don't mind some take up in the trigger, it just seems pretty excessive to me. Unfortunately, unlike a center fire, there is no way to dry fire to get used to the trigger. Thanks again for the explanation.

[John C]

The GSP, like most modern .22s, should not have the firing pin contact the chamber rim on dry fire. Alternately, you can buy a dry fire plug that fits in the chamber to allow dry fire. Some have used a certain sized drywall anchor for the same purpose. You definitely want to dry fire your GSP!

I'm glad I could help out with the explanation. I prefer a nice roll trigger, and have even modified my 1911s with roll trigger kits. Once you get used to shooting it, it's not bad at all. My scores went up.

[hp246]

The GSP, like most modern .22s, should not have the firing pin contact the chamber rim on dry fire. Alternately, you can buy a dry fire plug that fits in the chamber to allow dry fire. Some have used a certain sized drywall anchor for the same purpose. You definitely want to dry fire your GSP!

I'm glad I could help out with the explanation. I prefer a nice roll trigger, and have even modified my 1911s with roll trigger kits. Once you get used to shooting it, it's not bad at all. My scores went up.

Thanks for the info. I've been out of Bullseye for over 15 years. My last .22 was a Pardini, so this is quite a change for me. Thanks. I will start my search for the correct drywall anchor. Sighted in today. Still don't care for the slack, but will give it a try.