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View Full Version : Talk me into this Lee mold...



waco
10-26-2016, 09:01 PM
I don't want to break the bank with a high $$$ mold for this purpose. I'm looking at the Lee 6 cavity 148gr .358 wadcutter.

I will probably be using BLL only for these so I guess either the std or TL version will work out fine.

My main concern is do these molds drop boolits at LEAST .358" with a suitable alloy for WC boolits?

These will be shot mainly in a Ruger GP100, Taurus Tracker, and a S&W K38

Thanks for the input in advance.

Waco

Mitch
10-26-2016, 09:15 PM
lee molds are built to supposedly use as cast so yep the y should cast at.358.the 2 hole I have do cast at .358 with my 50/50 cow allomst pure mix.will the one you get likely

waco
10-26-2016, 09:35 PM
Yeah. But I own several Lee molds that don't cast to the size they are supposed to.
I was just hoping that someone had one of these molds that could tell me if they drop at the proper diameter or not. I know it's only $40 but if it's going to be on the small side all just go ahead and spend the money and buy a mold from Tom at Accurate.

TCFAN
10-26-2016, 10:00 PM
I have both a 2 cav and a 6 cav. of the Lee 358 TL WC. Both molds drop at .358 to .359 using my WW alloy.They shoot very well in my Smith 686.

turtlezx
10-26-2016, 10:26 PM
could beagle it if a little undersize see what it does and go from there

runfiverun
10-26-2016, 11:23 PM
the non tl version would be easier to lap out. [shrug]

rockrat
10-26-2016, 11:44 PM
Mine drops about .363, but I used a copper containing alloy that usually drops a bit big. Plain WW's should be alot smaller, probably closer to .360"

Think I will put it on S&S

RED BEAR
10-27-2016, 09:05 AM
i have the two hole one and it cast at .3595. really like the mold . i understand wanting the six banger but i just can not get used to those large handles after a few hours they start to hurt my hands. being slightly older than dirt they may not bother a younger person as much. but i really do like the mold.

sandman228
10-27-2016, 09:50 AM
I have the tl version in a 6 cav . its been a while since ive used it, but if I remember right it drops around .360 with a fairly soft alloy .

runfiverun
10-27-2016, 11:26 AM
you could look for an older ly 358091 too, I see them on here pretty often.

ShooterAZ
10-27-2016, 11:47 AM
My 6 cavity version drops at .360. I had the 2 cavity TL old style version and dumped it because the boolits were casting out of round and weren't as accurate. I'm very happy with the boolits this particular mold is casting.

mdi
10-27-2016, 11:55 AM
Hmmm. Does Lee state what alloy they use to determine size for their molds? It does make a difference. Mold temp., melt temp, casting cadence also make a difference in dropped bullet size/weight...

JonB_in_Glencoe
10-27-2016, 12:30 PM
I have a 2 cav TL style, that is the older style, but it was bought new by me, in 2010...so it's not real old. It drops a out-of round boolit measuring .360 x .361 (across the seam).

I also have a 6 cav. traditional lube groove style, that was bought new in 2014. I consider myself lucky with this one, it drops a ROUND .360 (I like to lube them with a .360 die)

Johnny_Cyclone
10-27-2016, 01:42 PM
Knowledgebase : Product Supporthttp://leeprecision.net/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/List/Index/13/product-support


Best Alloy for Lee Bullet Molds
Posted by Steph @ Lee Precision on 18 July 2016 01:00 PM


We recommend 95% Lead / 5% Tin for pistol or rifle molds. For roundball and Muzzleloader/Conicals/REAL bullet molds, we require pure lead.
___________________
Mold weights
Posted by on 20 October 2011 01:47 PM


Our weights are based on a 1 part tin to 10 part lead mix. Harder alloys produce lighter bullets, and pure lead will produce a heavier bullet.
___________________
Mold diameter tolerance
Posted by on 20 October 2011 01:46 PM


Our bullet mold tolerance is stated diameter, +.003/-.000 inch. We gauge our bullet molds with a "go/nogo" gauge, which tends to result in bullet molds that run on the high side of the tolerance. You could probably use one of our standard molds at as-cast diameter with good results.
___________________
Use Pure Lead for Slug Molds
Posted by on 21 October 2011 02:46 PM


Make sure you use pure lead for slug molds. We dimensionalized the slug mold to take the shrink rate of pure lead into account to arrive at the correct diameter. If you use alloyed lead (like wheel weights), the shrink rate will not be the same and the bullet diameter will be too large. Also, check to maks ure the mold is closing all the way. If not lubricated as per the instructions, it will be difficult to close all the way, and this will result in out of round, oversized bullets.
___________________
Increasing mold diameter
Posted by on 20 October 2011 01:34 PM


If you need the mold diameter of your cast bullets to be increased just slightly, there is a way to accomplish this at no cost.
Apply some lube to the mold blocks face, away from the bullet cavity. Place a small piece of cigarette paper or writing paper to the lubed block.
When casting the bullet, the diameter of the bullet will be increased by the paper thickness. You can actually go up to about .010 before you begin to see lead flashing appear. While the bullet will be slightly out of round, this very minimum amount will not effect accuracy or the manner in which the bullet travels through the forcing cone and barrel of your gun.
___________________
Mold lapping
Posted by on 20 October 2011 01:47 PM


Remove the core pin assembly and sprue plate, and block off the sprue hole in the top of the mold. Lightly clamp the mold in a vise, base up. Suspend a 1/4" or 5/16" tap into the center of the mold, and fill with molten lead. When the lead solidifies, you should have a polishing mandrel that fits the inner diameter of the mold fairly closely. Don't worry if there are wrinkles, the mandrel doesn't have to be perfect. Coat the mandrel with valve lapping compound or Clover compound, or something similar, and using the embedded tap, give it a couple turns

___________________
Overheating Double Cavity Mold
Posted by Steph @ Lee Precision on 11 February 2014 01:32 PM


The maximum operating temperature should be limited to 400 degrees with the absolute maximum of 450 degrees, for a maximum of 30 minutes. At 450 degrees the pins will turn a Pale straw-yellow. Any temperature above this will excessively reduce the tensile strength of the aluminum block by annealing. Once this overheating occurs, the only option is to send it in for replacement.
The aluminum molds will not overheat by simply casting but can be overheated by preheating with a hot plate, torch, setting on top of the pot to heat up or immersing in molten alloy for an excessive amount of time.

jhalcott
10-27-2016, 03:32 PM
I use the 6 cavity for plinking withmy 35 rem contender. Once in a while I shoot groundhogs with it. Most often my alloy is Ww, air cooled. The bullets drop rightat .3595/360.

NoZombies
10-27-2016, 03:34 PM
I ended up with one of the 6 cavity versions a few years ago in a trade, and other than test casting with it, I haven't really used it until I decided to give PC'ing a try. My mold (several years old) drops bullets at around .359. I PC them and then size back to .359 and they've done very well for low smoke, low cost plinking ammo.

jhalcott
10-27-2016, 03:36 PM
I use the 6 cavity for plinking withmy 35 rem contender. Once in a while  I shoot groundhogs with it. Most often my alloy is Ww, air cooled. The bullets drop rightat .3595/360.I don,t use this mold for hours, it empties my ten pound pot quickly and I have a PILE of bullets.

Mitch
10-27-2016, 03:52 PM
Well there ya go a sure bet is more $ every time. I am sure one of Toms molds would do a great job.

mdi
10-27-2016, 05:04 PM
Knowledgebase : Product Support

http://leeprecision.net/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/List/Index/13/product-support


Best Alloy for Lee Bullet Molds
Posted by Steph @ Lee Precision on 18 July 2016 01:00 PM


We recommend 95% Lead / 5% Tin for pistol or rifle molds. For roundball and Muzzleloader/Conicals/REAL bullet molds, we require pure lead.
___________________
Mold weights
Posted by on 20 October 2011 01:47 PM


Our weights are based on a 1 part tin to 10 part lead mix. Harder alloys produce lighter bullets, and pure lead will produce a heavier bullet.
___________________
Mold diameter tolerance
Posted by on 20 October 2011 01:46 PM


Our bullet mold tolerance is stated diameter, +.003/-.000 inch. We gauge our bullet molds with a "go/nogo" gauge, which tends to result in bullet molds that run on the high side of the tolerance. You could probably use one of our standard molds at as-cast diameter with good results.
___________________
Use Pure Lead for Slug Molds
Posted by on 21 October 2011 02:46 PM


Make sure you use pure lead for slug molds. We dimensionalized the slug mold to take the shrink rate of pure lead into account to arrive at the correct diameter. If you use alloyed lead (like wheel weights), the shrink rate will not be the same and the bullet diameter will be too large. Also, check to maks ure the mold is closing all the way. If not lubricated as per the instructions, it will be difficult to close all the way, and this will result in out of round, oversized bullets.
___________________
Increasing mold diameter
Posted by on 20 October 2011 01:34 PM


If you need the mold diameter of your cast bullets to be increased just slightly, there is a way to accomplish this at no cost.
Apply some lube to the mold blocks face, away from the bullet cavity. Place a small piece of cigarette paper or writing paper to the lubed block.
When casting the bullet, the diameter of the bullet will be increased by the paper thickness. You can actually go up to about .010 before you begin to see lead flashing appear. While the bullet will be slightly out of round, this very minimum amount will not effect accuracy or the manner in which the bullet travels through the forcing cone and barrel of your gun.
___________________
Mold lapping
Posted by on 20 October 2011 01:47 PM


Remove the core pin assembly and sprue plate, and block off the sprue hole in the top of the mold. Lightly clamp the mold in a vise, base up. Suspend a 1/4" or 5/16" tap into the center of the mold, and fill with molten lead. When the lead solidifies, you should have a polishing mandrel that fits the inner diameter of the mold fairly closely. Don't worry if there are wrinkles, the mandrel doesn't have to be perfect. Coat the mandrel with valve lapping compound or Clover compound, or something similar, and using the embedded tap, give it a couple turns

___________________
Overheating Double Cavity Mold
Posted by Steph @ Lee Precision on 11 February 2014 01:32 PM


The maximum operating temperature should be limited to 400 degrees with the absolute maximum of 450 degrees, for a maximum of 30 minutes. At 450 degrees the pins will turn a Pale straw-yellow. Any temperature above this will excessively reduce the tensile strength of the aluminum block by annealing. Once this overheating occurs, the only option is to send it in for replacement.
The aluminum molds will not overheat by simply casting but can be overheated by preheating with a hot plate, torch, setting on top of the pot to heat up or immersing in molten alloy for an excessive amount of time.
My question"What alloy..." was a rhetorical question. Meaning "see what the mold manufacturer says...".

psweigle
10-27-2016, 06:10 PM
I don't have that particular mold, but all my other lee molds drop .358-.359 without fail. At 695 degrees with wheel weights. Hope this helped.

DerekP Houston
10-27-2016, 06:14 PM
I have that mold, mine drop around .359 and I size them down with a .358 sizing die. Work like a champ.

Budzilla 19
10-27-2016, 06:20 PM
Lee 6 cavity 148 grain button nose wc. Cast them, PC them, size to .358. Done! Shoot wonderful! Just my .02.

waco
10-27-2016, 07:34 PM
I would like to thank you all for the input. I appreciate it very much.

I would like to say a special thank you to DerekP Houston.

You are very kind Sir.

Waco