Star Top Punch Question

[zipdog]

I just bought a used Star, and it included a 0.451 die and a top punch which is clearly meant for base-first sizing on a .45 SWC. This was further confirmed by the fact that there was a boolit still in the die and it was base down. What kind of punch do I need for nose-first sizing? Will I need a specific punch for each die size? The Star manual that I downloaded is pretty vague, at best.

[GabbyM]

Sounds to me you're heading down the wrong road.
Don't know why anyone would want to run bullets base first through a Star. Try them nose first before spending money on nose punches. You'll like it. I know old habbits are hard to break.

[Dale53]

I have sized both nose first and base first in my Star. I prefer nose first and have been doing that for years. You can also use a flat punch when sizing base first if the bullet has a flat nose. I have about three flat punches that pretty much cover the entire range of bullet diameter that I use (.32-.45).

Dale53

[mtgrs737]

I vote for nose first. Two or three flat punches will get all your needs covered and I think the boolits are more concentric too.

[zipdog]

Sounds to me you're heading down the wrong road.
Don't know why anyone would want to run bullets base first through a Star. Try them nose first before spending money on nose punches. You'll like it. I know old habbits are hard to break.

I'm not heading down that road...the previous owner did. That's one of the reasons I bought the Star. I'm trying to find out what type and how many punches I need for nose first sizing. Can anybody tell me?

[GabbyM]

Sorry Zipdog
Unless you plan to seat gas checks you can use the 38 caliber punch for 9mm through 45.
They make the punches .010" under nominal die diameter. I've a .348 and .420 for seating gas checks in 38 &44 caliber then they do everything else 9mm and above too.

I've never tried the 38 punch on a 45 bullet. They say it works. The punch always comes out to install the die removal tool so I use the punch close to size.

[zipdog]

Thanks, Gabby. That's the kind of info I need.

[sagamore-one]

Well guys,
I prefer base first if at all possible. If there is any excess flash at the base, the base first method generally takes care of the flashing. nose first smears the flashing into something kinda like a skirt.. Also ... a properly fitted top punch will help uniform ( remove inconsistancies, or abnormalities) the semi wad cutter or full wadcutter shoulder. There are reasons for base first sizing. I use both methods, but 99.9 % get sized base first.
By the way... you can absolutely size base first without a fitted top punch.

[Orygun]

Well guys,
I prefer base first if at all possible. If there is any excess flash at the base, the base first method generally takes care of the flashing. nose first smears the flashing into something kinda like a skirt.. Also ... a properly fitted top punch will help uniform ( remove inconsistancies, or abnormalities) the semi wad cutter or full wadcutter shoulder. There are reasons for base first sizing. I use both methods, but 99.9 % get sized base first.
By the way... you can absolutely size base first without a fitted top punch.

+1
I have always sized base first on all handgun boolits and have great results. On the .45, I use a round nose top punch for RN and 2 different SWC's with no problems deforming or otherwise.

[Cherokee]

Good comments all. I have some I size base first, some I size nose first.

[Echo]

What Sag & Ory said - I always size base-first on the Star, for the reasons given.

EasyEd
USAF Ret
NRA Patron
O&U

[Marshal Kane]

. . . I've never tried the 38 punch on a 45 bullet. They say it works. . .
It works. When I ordered the punch from Magma Engineering, they sent me just the one punch.

[38 Super Auto]

I think the universal punch concept, i.e., using a 38 cal bottom punch for 45 bullets is OK providing the cast out bullets are hard enough. I have seen some deformation of the 45 bullet base using a smaller punch. I ended up using a nose punch.

It seems as if many today are leaning toward nose first sizing in the Star/Magma, but I have purchased several old Star die that included nose punches, so somewhere back in history, casters were base first sizing on a Star. At some point, someone decided nose first sizing was preferable. I don't necessarily agree. I use both in my rig.

[sagamore-one]

I have in my collection numerous "fitted" top punches, several flat punches, and top punches converted to use 1/4 - 20 screw in inserts, just un- screw one and screw in a replacement. If you have a lathe.... just turn a new insert, thread it 1/4 - 20 and you're in business. I have also seen top punches altered to accept Lyman punches and still another to accept Saeco punches.
A little imagination, plus a little time, plus a decent lathe is all it takes.

[plumber]

I just bought a used Star, and it included a 0.451 die and a top punch which is clearly meant for base-first sizing on a .45 SWC. This was further confirmed by the fact that there was a boolit still in the die and it was base down. What kind of punch do I need for nose-first sizing? Will I need a specific punch for each die size? The Star manual that I downloaded is pretty vague, at best.

This is the same way my new to me star came. I plan on getting dies fro
Lathesmith for .356 & .358. I will be ordering a flat punch for the .356 as well. As far as the .45 'nose punch' that came with my Star, can that be used for nose first sizing?
I was thinking of filling the cavity with epoxy and grinding it square. Or should I get a new flat punch for the .45?

[anachronism]

As far as the .45 'nose punch' that came with my Star, can that be used for nose first sizing?
I was thinking of filling the cavity with epoxy and grinding it square. Or should I get a new flat punch for the .45?

You might not even need to do that. Try it as is & see how it works. It it gives you consistent pressure around the base of the bullet & doesn't deform it, you may be able to use it for nose first sizing. It's worth trying, and if it doesn't work you could always try epoxy in the cavity.

[MtGun44]

Plumber,

Make sure you really need that .356 die. Many folks find that .356 diam boolits
don't work at all well in many 9mms. Unless you've tried it and your 9mm
likes .356s, you'd be money ahead to get the .358 only and try it in your 9mm
to see. My 9s love .358 or .357. If you wind up needing the .356 you could
get it later.

Of course, some 9mms won't chamber a case with a .358 diam boolit, either.
Every gun is a thing unto itself.

Bill

[cajun shooter]

You can just use the one universal die that Magma sells for nose first sizing. The only time you will need something different is if you want to use gas checks then you want a die that is close to bullet diameter.

[buffdriver]

It's worth trying, and if it doesn't work you could always try epoxy in the cavity.

This is the approach that I took. My Star came with a .3575 die and a SWC punch. I filled the cavity in the punch with some JB Weld and have had no problems at all using it as a nose-first punch.

[runfiverun]

i usually order the largest size they have then grind it down to fi the boolit i am gonna size the 358 sizer didn't work too well in my 224 sizer. or my 286 sizer either. i adjust the length too when i find it necessary.