Type 38 Arisaka 6.5/.257 Roberts

[macomber]

I have a few of these rifles and would like to hear from others who have/had them. Two are scoped and one is iron sights.

What bullets do they like?

What kind of accuracy do you get?

Any tricks to get better accuracy?


Thanks,
Rich

[EDG]

I can only speak to the 6.5 Jap rifles Type 38 and Type I (Carcano). I found that starting loads with the long 140 grain Sierra BT spitzer keyholed. So you might try only flat based bullets. The 140 grain Hornady flat based spitzer bullets shot ok with no keyholing.

[macomber]

I didn't have any keyholing but also noticed that flat base bullets seem to group better.

[Mk42gunner]

No help with the accuracy, mine doesn't have sights or scope on it yet; but I do have a peanut butter jar full of fireforming loads. One of these days????

Robert

[Safeshot]

Heavy 6.5 Privi Partisan jacketed bullets (which seem to have a thick, heavy jacket) from "Grafs" work well in the 6.5/257 Roberts (similar to the 6.5 X 57mm Mauser Caliber) re-chambered T38 Rifles. Heavy (hard cast) cast, gas checked bullets with plenty of good bullet lube (for the long barrel) seem to work well also. Just one persons opinion.

[curator]

I inherited my Dad's much "sporterized" 6.5X57 M38 Jap rifle. I found the best accuracy with .268 diameter bullets made for the 6.5 Carcarno. Slugging the chromed bore revealed diameters ranging from .265 to .267 with it being larger at the muzzle end. Eventually I had it re-barreled to 260 Remington and never looked back.

[TCLouis]

Mine was built on a rifle (not carbine) in 68 and though it has a rough barrel (did they ever clean or take care of the barrels in the 6.5s?) and preferred the old Hornady 129 grain round nose. right now I use the 129 or 140 spire points with slightly less accuracy. 1 to 1.5 " with the old load with the RN and a dose of surplus 4831.
Back then I also had one built on a carbine (which one of my ex's relatives purloined while I was out of country) and it preferred the Hornady 129 grain spire point.

I have only seen one type 38 with a good barrel and it was totally pristine including the barrel and at first I doubted what I was seeing because the stock was walnut, but the typical two piece stock.
I really wish I had bought it.

[madsenshooter]

I have a couple of them. NOE makes some molds that cast larger than the standard .264. I've not been able to play with them much, but I did get some Sellier and Bellot 6.5x57 ammo to try, when it was on sale. I found if I disassembled the bolt, and used only the body, so there was no danger of the striker falling, that I could get enough leverage to size the 6.5x57 to 6.5x.257 Roberts without too much effort. Effort needed will vary among chambers. A little sizing die wax on the shoulder helps. They shot around a 4" 100yd, iron sight group at the one outing I had with them. Junkiest looking sporter I ever saw! Some young guys 1960s era project, with the nickname "Smokey" carved in the side of the butt. You have to be careful not to get the rimmed version, it's too big for the 38's bolt face. PRVI also makes 6.5x57.

[Adam Helmer]

I have a 6.5 Jap sporter cut down to Mannlicher configuration which is definitely a 6.5/.257 redo. I bought it for $5 in 1965 while a GI. It is a very nice arm. Who makes reloading dies for the 6.5/257? I have fired 6.5MM Jap ammo in the rifle and the cases come out longer in the shoulder.

Adam

[runfiverun]

I think my set are by redding.
but they are in the older brown cardboard box.

look at Huntington die specialty's on the web and you should find a set. [RCBS]

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

My custom type 38 rifle is stamped 257Rx6.5 on the original Jap barrel, slugged at .2685

The die set that came with the rifle was stamped the same, made by RF Wells for Minnesota reloading supply (circa early 1960s). I sold those dies, as the FL sizer gave the proper neck tension for .264 J-words and the seater die wouldn't seat a Fat boolit.

I had Lee make a custom Collet neck size die and also a custom FCD.
I have modified a Bonanza 7mm STW BR seater die to work for this.
I use a Lee 7mm Mauser FL die to size/resize the case body or reset the shoulder, as necessary.

Recently I stumbled onto a set of Lyman dies, the FL die is marked 6.5x257 and the seat die is marked 6.5

I've got three different NOE molds.
I was disappointed with the accuracy I got with the 269-145-FN
I got the 143gr Kurtz mold, and the Nose seemed to fat when I was figuring out seating depth and figured it wouldn't shot, but was surprised with pretty good accuracy.

Lastly, I have the NOE 270-149-RN (Luverin style), I haven't shot it yet, but I have high hopes for it. Note the taper in sizing of the nose and leading drive bands.
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/images/N.O.E._Bullet_Moulds_270-149-RN_(GC)___148_gr_Sketch.Jpg

[macomber]

how much trouble was it to rebarrel it and where would you find one?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Mine has the original barrel, it's been rechambered to 257Rx6.5

[macomber]

Mine too, but someone else mentioned that they had rebarreled theirs to .260 rem.


Mine has the original barrel, it's been rechambered to 257Rx6.5

[corbinace]

Mine too, but someone else mentioned that they had rebarreled theirs to .260 rem.

The post also mentioned it being "much "sporterized"". This sounds line an action in a cut down or replacement stock. Not a true military repro.

[TCLouis]

Not quite the big deal today (though I doubt many gunsmiths want to take it on), but in the old days one had to have the extra 121(?) tooth gear to cut the metric thread.

Some cut 1?X14??? then hand lapped in with valve grinding compound, it has been to long to remember the details, but I do have the notes around here someplace.

\Seems to me back when "American Rifleman" was a much more interesting magazine that they even had an article on the Type 38.

If it checked out to clear the old chamber, the 260 Remington would be perfect substitution for the 6.5X50.

[flounderman]

I had a gunsmith tell me he used the 260 in the 6.5 jap, just run the reamer in.

[GONRA]

GONRA remembers the "TP Gun Shop" (check this!) in MI (?)
converting Jap rifles in this fashion in the late 1950's.

[macomber]

But that won't work if its already been reamed to .257 Rob chamber, will it?

[mwells72774]

But that won't work if its already been reamed to .257 Rob chamber, will it?

From there you could clean the chamber with a 6.5x57 reamer or take out 6.5-06 but not sure if the mag well could handle the length

[macomber]

Anybody shooting this, what kind of accuracy do you get? At 100-300 yds?

[bouncer50]

Does anyone remember the NRA ran a story of a guy rechamber a Jap 6.5 to 30.06. The guy who own it complaint of the recoil. The NRA ran a test on it the bullets came out long and skinny. But the action held up fine no damage. All way check the caliber before you rechamber.

[retread]

I had a set of 6.5 Roberts years ago. It was made by RCBS. They may still have new old stock.


I have a 6.5 Jap sporter cut down to Mannlicher configuration which is definitely a 6.5/.257 redo. I bought it for $5 in 1965 while a GI. It is a very nice arm. Who makes reloading dies for the 6.5/257? I have fired 6.5MM Jap ammo in the rifle and the cases come out longer in the shoulder.

Adam

[EDG]

A better alternative would be to go to 6.5X55. The bolt faces of the Jap rifles are a bit sloppy and the original round required tapered feed rails.
The 6.5X55 has a bit more body taper and would be a better round for these rifles.


Mine too, but someone else mentioned that they had rebarreled theirs to .260 rem.