PDA

View Full Version : Advice casting for 375h&h



pundip
10-18-2016, 01:50 AM
I am new to casting and am thinking about casting for my 375 h&h. I am not looking for light loads. I am looking for as close a normal load as possible. I understand that the upper limit of anything cast is around 2000 fps. I have managed to find a mold that is quite heavy for calibre at 385 grains where the heaviest for this calibre is typically 300 gr that comes out around 2500 FPS http://www.castbulletengineering.com.au/bullet-moulds/rifle/375-calibre/378-385pb-single-cavity
Even if I limit to 2000 fps I think there will be plenty of punch. This will be for paper punching only. My main motivation is cost. I want to get cheap bullets for practice without worrying about cost
I have used commercial cast hi-tek coated bullets in different calibres and found the results to be very poor. They have all been light for calibre or normal weight and loaded with trail boss except a 458 lott loaded to around 2000fps. I have flared the mouths so the bullets are not shaved and they have been **** in every single case.
I have not slugged any bores as the guns in question and modern manufacture and the 375 is a Winchester model 70 and I expect the bore to be close to 375. I plan to cast the bullets, coat and bake with something like hi-tek, size and shoot and see how they group.
The stability calculator http://www.bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/ show that the bullet should be stable even at 1000 fps. I plan to start off with trail boss. I would like some advice on the details such as what sizing die should I buy and what alloy to use and what are my chances of getting an accurate bullet. I want to avoid sinking all this money and time and finding a 6 inch group at 100 meters. Any advice would be welcome.

runfiverun
10-18-2016, 12:04 PM
375449.
it runs jacketed speeds in the 375 Winchester.
but it's not 300grs.

anyway here is how this works.
you put in work and effort and you get results.
then you build on those results until you get what you want.

if you just want instant results you go to the store and buy jacketed bullets.

dubber123
10-18-2016, 12:52 PM
Guessing by your spelling of "caliber", you may be from somewhere other than the US? Sometimes that complicates matters when it comes to molds or powders. I'll have to look at my notes, but I had pretty good initial results with my .375 at full power with cast. A good bore and good lube helps a lot. I had some vertical stringing, (Ruger #1 problem?), but groups were in the 1.5" range, (A lot less minus the stringing), at around 2,600 fps. This was with a heavy boolit too. The .375 seemed pretty willing to shoot cast in the one example I worked with. Good luck.

Hardcast416taylor
10-18-2016, 02:57 PM
In the chance that you can look on an Accurate Bullet website on page 7 of their catalog they list 37 caliber molds. Among the molds he has a paper patch mold for the .375 that weighs 300 grains. This can be driven very near what a jacketed bullet can be driven. A cast lead boolet that is sized and lubed only at its best can not be driven to jacketed speeds. At what distances are you thinking about punching paper targets? A .375 H&H is an accurate round, however it is not a bench rest type caliber.Robert

Tatume
10-18-2016, 06:42 PM
The 375 H&H is often a very accurate chambering. My Ruger No. 1 shoots sub-MOA.

I'm a bit confused by the OP stating he wants full power but plans to use Trail Boss powder.

pundip
10-18-2016, 09:31 PM
dubber123, I am from Australia. I am amazed that you got a cast bullet to reach 2600 fps. I would be interested to know what you did to lube it.


I would like to clarify what I am trying to accomplish. I plan to shoot standing unsupported at distances upto 100 yards so I am not looking for sub moa. Given the speed limitation of cast I figured that the heavier the bullet the closer I can get too full load without exceeding 2000 fps limit. This heaviest mold I found was for 385gr. Bear in mind that I have no casting equipment so I want to stagger my purchases. I am thinking of casting sizing and lubing few bullets and shooting with trailboss. If they group decently (around 2moa) I plan to start looking at powder coating etc and moving up to proper loads.


I want to know if this is a viable approach. I am also looking for recommendations regarding alloy. I understand linotype is the hardest and preferable when pushing bullets at speed. Also how useful is testing the bullets using trail boss for accuracy. The end goal is to cast, powder coat, size (to .376?) and fire with a load aimed at 2000 fps and still get 2moa accuracy. I am happy to play around but I am not sure what variables I should be looking at?

dragon813gt
10-18-2016, 09:46 PM
Read this: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

You're asking a lot of basic questions. Read that book multiple times. The when you have questions search the forum for the answers. All the info is out there. IMO, you don't need to push it to 2k FPS to shoot paper at 100 yards.

dubber123
10-18-2016, 10:42 PM
I will have to look at my notes, but I will get back to you. Regarding sizing, that is totally dependent upon your particular gun, and only experimentation will let your know what it likes. My lube is a home brewed formula, but nothing special really. Even with the vertical stringing, mine was not much over MOA.

Hardcast416taylor
10-19-2016, 05:12 PM
Linotype isn`t the only alloy that is usable, straight wheel weight alloy or 50/50 alloy (mix of WW and pure lead) is used alot. Look on the Accurate mould site I recommended or look on NOE or about any maker of molds will have examples of .375" molds. For 100 yd. shooting super high velocities aren`t needed, something comfortable to shoot that doesn`t beat you up is what you should be looking for. Sizing to probably .377" will be about ideal. add a gas check or shoot plain based boolets. By reading this site you have undoubtly seen references to `Ed`s Red` bullet formula. It is easy to make and tolerates velocities over the 2000 FPS barrier. As has been mentioned the Lyman mold #375449 is an excellent mold to be using, I use it as does probably a large number of .375 H&H shooters do. There is powder load data everywhere for the .375 H&H, just look for it. Standard large rifle primers are more commonly used than Magnum primers that are more often used in Jacketed bullet loadings. Good luck on your road of discovery with the .375 H&H.Robert

dondiego
10-20-2016, 12:54 PM
Ed's Red is a cleaning solvent. I think that there is a Ben's Red boolit lube. Rooster Red???

Hardcast416taylor
10-20-2016, 02:33 PM
Ed's Red is a cleaning solvent. I think that there is a Ben's Red boolit lube. Rooster Red???


Thanks for catching my bad. Just shows that you shouldn`t drink hot coffee and try to type at the same time since my fingers never finished grade school for spelling. I just made up another batch of BEN`S RED BOOLET LUBE this morning, GOOD STUFF!Robert