686 no dash problem

[mozeppa]

hi,

got my 686 out, took the crane out, sent the cylinder to Dougguy to make all the chambers the same size.
he did a first rate job.

i got it back and did the re-assemble and everything looked perfect.

so i closed the cylinder into the frame.

and now it won't open at all.... i mean i can still rotate the cylinder by holding the
hammer half way back ...or, i can rotate it by using the double action (pulling the trigger.)

this is a "no dash" and has no child safety locking mechanism hole on the left side.

how do i get it open without damaging anything?

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Not easy to diagnosis without having it on the bench. Is the cylinder retaining screw a bit too long and too tight? Try backing it out a couple of turns.

It's a possibility that when disassembled/reassembled one of the parts was burred, or some foreign matter entered the front of the frame or was on the yoke/crane and is causing it to bind. If this is the case it's kind of sealed in there and there's no way to get at it, so in that case (if that is the case) the only way to overcome the burr or crud is with force. Holding the revolver sideways to the light so that you can see through the gap around the cylinder, are you able to ascertain if when you push the cylinder release button, is anything happening? Is it functional? If it appears to be working, then while keeping it pushed forward I'd give the other side of the cylinder a smack with a rubber mallet, and I'm pretty sure it would come open. Then disassemble and clean everything really well and inspect the parts for a burr before reassembling. Since you had machine work done on the cylinder an overlooked metal chip could be what found it's way into the frame. Smiths are made to pretty close tolerances and it doesn't take much of a burr or piece of crud to hang them up. The rubber mallet treatment won't damage your revolver, and just one short but firm smack should get it open.

If the cylinder release button isn't working, then you'll have to remove the side plate, remove the hammer and trigger and ascertain what the problem is with the latch. If you remove the latch and it's spring (look out for the potential disappearance of a little plunger in the spring) you should be able to use a long pin punch to insert through the rear of the frame and push the release in the cylinder.

No luck? Get back to us.

[bosterr]

Did you remove the side-plate when you removed the yoke? Which would not have been necessary.

[Preacher Jim]

did you disassemble the cylinder when you sent it off and not get the lock and release rod back in place correctly?????

[hardy]

Hi, just a thought.........Is the ejector rod fully in? Cheers Mike...........

[Oyeboten]

Hi, just a thought.........Is the ejector rod fully in? Cheers Mike...........


This was my thought also...

If the Eector Rod has unscrewed a little bit, it can make it very hard to swing out the Cylinder.

[Ola]

This was my thought also...

If the Eector Rod has unscrewed a little bit, it can make it very hard to swing out the Cylinder.

That's it. 99,9 % probability. Has happened to me couple of times.

As you try to open the cylinder, use a little screw driver or similar tool and pry the ejector rod towards the cylinder. CAREFULLY, so you don't scratch anything!

[mozeppa]

fixed it!

t'was too much crud inside the stem
so while it was all apart i cleaned everything with q-tips and acetone ...rem oiled every thing lightly.
changed the sear spring and main spring to 13 pound instead of the 14 pound in it.

now it has a trigger pull of 2.3 pounds! instead of 4.0
just hope it fires okay now with the lighter springs.....if not i'll change them back.

life is good!