Normal mold wear?

[LakeviewBulldog]

I just made a major investment (major for me anyway) in a NOE 453-RG4 HP mold. It's great and I get more and more keeps after every casting session. My question is, what is considered normal wear? I've used this mold to cast about 600-700 boolits and am noticing some wear. I'm the only caster I know so I don't have anyone local to compare with. If if you guys could take a look at these pics and , hopefully, set my mind at ease that I am not destroying my beautiful mold I can stop worrying. I've noticed some silver on the pin plates as well, again, normal or not? Also, I know a lot of people say to close the mold on a flat surface to save wear on the alignment pins, how would one going about doing that with this mold design, or am I worrying about nothing? Thanks in advance.

[SciFiJim]

On the pin plates, it looks like it might be lead but kind of hard to tell. How does the bottom of your mold look?

[LakeviewBulldog]

It may be lead. I had my mold resting on the edge of my pot when it slipped in the melt. That was a mess. I'll take a pencil to it and see if it doesn't come off. I was worried it might be aluminum.

[SciFiJim]

If there are not deep gouge marks on the bottom of the mold, it is not aluminum. The heat of the pot will not cause the aluminum to rub off like that.

[country gent]

Most moulds treated properly with a little care will cast for several lifetimes of shooters with little problems. Warm it slowly and steadily when using it on a hot plate or the pot carefully while getting ready to cast. A simple heavy wire rack to set accross the top of the pot to rest and support the mould in helps alot. (This works best if you always start with a full pot). Clean the mould before use dry and lightly lube per instructions of maker or whats found here. They may discolor a little with use and a Patania will form from heating cooling cycles but the mould will cast great bullets for a long time. The formed patina dosnt seem to affect the bullets but does seem to aid release of the bullets. A little care when casting dont drop, slam, bang into things. Close gently and carefully, If tapping is needed onl;y a soft tool that wont ding or marr. Wood dowel ( I like to put a piece of clear plastic tubing over each end handle and tapping end to give better grip and save splinters protect wood), a soft faced light cap or dead blow hammer does great here also, something in the slim line 5oz-8oz range here), Clean before use and give a protective coating when done and cooled off.

[gwpercle]

Most of my wear shows up on the block top , when the sprue plate rubs back and forth and if I open too soon and smear lead across the top. Stop right then and there and clean the smear off, clean off the block top and underside of the sprue plate , it will just get worse and scar the blocks, let it get too bad and you will ruin them.
Kept clean and well lubed they will last a lifetime....my idiot brother-in-law can destroy a mould in an hour. Aluminum is soft , so treat them gently with a lot of TLC.
Post #5 says it well , treat it carefully,
Gary

[Bzcraig]

It looks like you lube the top of the mold and underside of the sprue plate a little more often but it looks good.

[LakeviewBulldog]

Yeah, I'm still trying to get the lube timing down. With those HP's I was trying to keep moving so I may need to lube a bit more. The wear on the top isn't actually scarring yet. More like a rub. Any advice on keeping the wear down on those alignment pins down, or am I worrying about nothing?

[country gent]

Scavange a piece of 3/4 X3/4 angle iron it only needs to be 6"-8" sit this on your bench point up where its comfortable to use to sit the mould on to close the inverted Vees point will take much less area to pre alighn and close the mould with.

[Ola]

Oh, you should see some of my molds. Yours look like a gem compared to mine..

AND they still cast very good bullets.