.30-06 sizing diameter

[selmerfan]

Ok, I just purchased a .30-150 SPGC RCBS 2 cav mold. I don't have it yet, but I will be using it for target/plinking in my .30-06. It's a Win. M70 Classic stainless. Any suggestions on sizing diameter for these guns? I haven't slugged it because I'm not sure how to slug the bore without using cerrosafe, and I've never used cerrosafe. Suggestions are welcome! Thanks!
Selmerfan

[jonk]

Strange... I'm not sure how to slug the bore WITH cerrosafe! :-)

Slugging the bore is easy enough. Buy some lead round balls- or better yet egg sinkers- a bit over bore diameter. Lightly oil and pound through from the breech (I use a hardwood dowel). Measure results with micrometer or calipers.

That done, 1/1000 over bore diameter up to and including as fat as will chamber and comfortably seat will treat you well.

If you just want to try without measurements, I'd try a .311 and see if it will chamber; otherwise .309.

[Ben]

Offering a suggestion on a sizing dia. for a rifle is a lot like offering someone a pair of shoes that you've never met. " Iffy " at best.

With that said, I have a Lee Nose 1st " Push Thru " die that I have honed out to .3094 ".

My cast bullets are sized with this die and then lubed in a Lyman .311 H & I die. They shoot real well in a wide variety of .30 rifles ( over a dozen ).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/88.jpg

Ben

[selmerfan]

Ben, so what you're telling me is that you use the Lee for sizing and the Lyman for lubing? I had though about trying this as a poor man's Star (nose feed sizing), but thought I would be laughed off of the forum. I have read that the nose feed design makes more concentric boolits, but then I didn't know how to lube them with standard lube, I don't have micro-groove Lee molds for my rifles. Now I'll have to start experimenting....dang you!
Selmerfan

[selmerfan]

jonk, do you have to pound the slug all the way through the bore? It's a 22" barrel, that seems like a long ways to go. Or could I just pound it into the rifling a few inches, then pound it back out from the muzzle?
Selmerfan

[docone31]

For lubing, I use the pan lube method.
I then use the Lee push through sizer.
It does alright.

[Ben]

selmerfan :

I NEVER shot any decent groups with cast rifle bullets until I started using this method.

A concentric bullet that isn't shaved on one side by the mis-alignment of the nose punch and the sizing die is critical to an accurate cast bullet.

As to your sizing......just try pounding the oversized bullet into muzzle end of your rifling about 2 inches or so , then pound it back out from the breech end? That should give you a " rough idea " of the bore dimensions. Be absolutely certain you don't use anything made of steel to do this pounding of the bullet with. Use a wooden dowel, an aluminum or brass rod, but no steel.

Thanks,

Ben

[Blammer]

I'd use the cerrosafe to make a chamber casting that would include the first inch or so of rifling.

that will give you a very good idea of what you need to size too.

OR

I'd pound (with lots of oil) a slug in from the chamber about an inch or so into the rifling then back out.

[fourarmed]

I strongly suggest that you use a clean, smooth steel or brass rod just slightly smaller than the bore diameter for slugging. Wooden dowels can break at an angle and jam tightly in the bore, and then you do have a problem.

[docone31]

I took a generic bullet, one I got as it was reccomended for the caliber and another caliber. Cast it, shoved it into the barrel, and measured.
As it turned out, the bullet choice I made was for my -06, and .30s, plus my .303.
It casts at .313, and I size it to .311, and .309 with gas checks, .308 for paper patching.
To start with that, I went to the manufacturer's specs., asked them, then went on this forum and asked here. With those questions answered, I got sizers.
In my case, I am going to paper patch both .30 cal., and .303. The .30 to .311, and the .303 as wrapped. Gives .314.
In finding throat, I set an unsized bullet in each case, close the chamber, retract and set the die for that length. I do not crimp.
Next I will be looking at powder charges.
Pan lubing is simple once you do a few. Push through sizing is also simple and seems to work for me fairly well.
All in all, not too bad. I am sure, once you do a few you will get the hang of it.
You will probably be safe with .309. Some of us go .311. One person goes .3095. Sounds to me like the ball park is .309 through .311. Once again, it depends on what the bore slugs to.
Once you get the mold, make a few and pound one into the barrel. Use wood and lube. Then using a dowel, hammer it back out and measure. Then you will know.
Incidently, lapping a barrel involves driving a bullet, or lead wire, with lapping compound into the bore, through the barrel, and back through the bore. Most lapping compounds I have seen used go to 600. I plan on doing one to 3200. Perhaps I will find why most stop at 600. Hey, I got time.
I found some really good pan lube formulas on this site. Not too hard to make, use, and smell good when heated.

[jonk]

Well personally I pound it all the way through; if the throat is worn or has any sort of decent lead in, it may or may not give an idea of true bore diameter.

That said I usually load up with the fattest bullet that will easily chamber and go from there. I don't slug unless I need to.

[Ricochet]

I slug the throat end of the bore and knock it back out as described, because that's what needs to be filled by the boolit for good shooting. If the bore gets narrower on down the line, so will the boolit.

[Boomer Mikey]

I wouldn't characterize the process as pounding the slug through the bore; more of a pushing it through the bore once it's started. Slug the muzzle end, the chamber end, and push a slug through the bore from one end to the other. Then you'll have an idea of what you have. Pushing a slug through the bore allows you to "feel" the general condition of the rifle's bore from one end to the other... take notes and make a diagram. Clean the barrel thoroughly and J&B the bore before slugging it to clean any fouling or scale left in it.

This is a fairly good article on this subject and pictures clarify the process. This site has several tutorials on the basics of reloading for the mil-surp rifles.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reloading/slug/index.asp

Use wood for an occasional job, aluminum is OK but get brass rods if you are going to shoot cast in several guns. Stay away from steel rods unless you have proficiency at doing this operation.

A source for brass rods:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMKANO=168&PMPAGE=74&PARTPG=INLMPA&PMCTLG=01

Boomer :Fire:

[runfiverun]

i am with ricochet on this.
you gotta get it started correctly, and can't do much about
further down the bbl except polish out a rough spot.