Rock Chucker mounting issues

[tstowater]

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Built another bench yesterday. Same design as my other rifle/handgun loader bench except that I went with two sheets of 3/4" plywood instead of one. The other bench will have Dillon presses on Strong Mounts.

As you will note from the pictures, I'm running into issues with the handle so I'm trying to figure out which way to go. The Inline Fabrication system will work but I want to be able to set up both presses and I am concerned about the footprint of two of the Inline systems, let alone the cost. I'm not sure Pat Marlin's system will work and the same with the RCBS plate.

Am I missing something or will the Pat Marlin and/or the RCBS options work? What have I not thought of using.

I like the benches. I have enough weight on the shelves to keep the bench from moving; let alone a pile of storage.

Thanks

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[jmorris]

I hate it when that happens. Attach it to a subplate and let it overhang a little bit, your bench looks like it should be strong enough.

Or you can notch the bench for the handle.

[tstowater]

Jmorris, what are you using for a sub plate?

A little reluctant to cut into the wood. Shouldn't impact bench strength, but don't want to find out that it does.

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[jmorris]

The ones I posted above are 3/8" steel plate but that is what I had and more than really needed.

If what you mount it to will not flex, you are good to go.

[ncbearman]

I just cut my bench. It didn't compromise the integrity of the bench. I've been derimming and Swaging with it that way. The newer RC IV Supreme are re-engineered and that issue is gone.

[country gent]

I made some slide in mounts and plates for my bench.2 slide mounts and a bunch of plates for them.Mine are 1/4" X 4" plates that mount to the presses and tooling. The slides are 1/4" x 6" x 8" long. a piece of 1/4" x 1" x 8' down esch edge and a piece of 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 8inch on top of that. this form the simple t slot and clamps for the plates. Drill and tap 4-5 1/4 20 holes 3/4" from each outside edge relieve the holes in the 1/4x1 and 1.4x1 1/2 to 1/4" clearence holes and countersink for flat head screws. slide tool in clamp screws tight and your ready to go. Trimmers, lube sizers, presses, stands and powder measure, along with most other tools can be mounted to 1/4x4x8 plates ( some times 2 toolscan be mounted 1 front and one back) and simply slid into place.

[lightman]

Thats a nice looking bench! I would just route out a small section to clear the press handle. It should not affect the strength of your bench.

[BK7saum]

I'm not sureally if the nut will clear the linkage if mounted on the top, but all my press handles have the jam nuts on top of the press part (handle side). If on top, you should not have clearance issues. The linkage should then clear the bench.

[omgb]

I would notch the bench and then glue and screw a cripple behind the notch to add back the strength you removed.

[Mk42gunner]

I mount most of my presses to the end of a 2x6 and then either use a C-clamp or bolt it to the bench.

Robert

[triggerhappy243]

when you built the bench, that cross rail should have been set back 2 inches. the press handle would have cleared.

[Ken in Iowa]

I mount most of my presses to the end of a 2x6 and then either use a C-clamp or bolt it to the bench.

Robert

Same here. My lubrisizers and bench vice too. Cheap, quick and versatile.

[OS OK]

5/16" or 3/8's" subplates, they have larger footprints and spread the torque to a larger area on the bench top. Subplates do not flex. Yes, more time and effort but you will not look back with regret.

Are you going to seal that nice virgin wood before it takes on stains?

[jmorris]

Must be that time of day, I wouldn't do this but my mind just said to heat the nut up cherry red and burn clearance into the bench.

[tstowater]

5/16" or 3/8's" subplates, they have larger footprints and spread the torque to a larger area on the bench top. Subplates do not flex. Yes, more time and effort but you will not look back with regret.

Are you going to seal that nice virgin wood before it takes on stains?
Benches are an utilitarian device. If I make it look pretty, I will be upset when I drill a hole or put a ding in it. Primary reason for using the finished plywood is smoothness and less splinters.

After a couple years they start looking like this anyway.
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[tstowater]

The frame for the bench is made by 2x4 Basics. Pretty simple and you can build whatever size you want. The new one is 30x60 because that is about all the room I had. If we were to move, the bench can be disassembled otherwise I couldn't get it out of the room. Two shelves with lots of good storage.

Here is the backside of the bench. The design just doesn't lend itself to top mounting an older Rock Chucker press. I do have a Rock Chucker Supreme but it is being used elsewhere.



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[OS OK]

Whatever you decide to do, I'm sure you'll be very happy with it...it's a very nice well braced work bench.

[BucketBack]

I mount most of my presses to the end of a 2x6 and then either use a C-clamp or bolt it to the bench.

Robert

That works for me also.
My bench wasn't level, so I covered my mounting area with clear packing tape and bondo squashed the 2 x 6 to the bench, then thru bolted it.
A hammer and putty knife was all I needed to remove it later.

After I remembered to take the bolts out.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I would notch the bench and then glue and screw a cripple behind the notch to add back the strength you removed.

A cripple means a backing piece on the other side of the frame? This is what I would do. I'm not sure how far the vertical mounting screws for the press itself come from the back of the frame, so it might be that a bit of added thickness there would be useful.

I don't know if motorcycle tyres still have inner tubes. I am getting to the last couple of inches of the one I use to cut rubber bands to hold the primer catcher in place.

[Half Dog]

I made / helped to make mine in the mid 80's. I haven't had any issues.
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[tstowater]

A cripple means a backing piece on the other side of the frame? This is what I would do. I'm not sure how far the vertical mounting screws for the press itself come from the back of the frame, so it might be that a bit of added thickness there would be useful.

I don't know if motorcycle tyres still have inner tubes. I am getting to the last couple of inches of the one I use to cut rubber bands to hold the primer catcher in place.

Based on the location of the mounting holes on the RC, it would appear that a 2x4 backer will interfere (depending on how you look at it) with bolting the press to the bench unless you are either:1. using lag screws or 2. using longer bolts. If I had thought about a backer board, I could have put one on when I built the bench

I normally don't deprime on a RC due the poorly designed spent primer holder. That being said, I do have a client who has a bike shop so I suspect I can get all the bike tubes I want.

[tstowater]

I made / helped to make mine in the mid 80's. I haven't had any issues.
175492

Is that a Rock Chuck press or a different one? Did you put a cripple/backer board behind this front board? That looks good if I can make it work but I think I am going to lose another 3/4's of an inch due to the second piece of plywood.

[Hardcast416taylor]

When I built my bench about 30 years ago I had access to large dimension lumber and thick plywood. I used 4x4 for legs and a lot of 2x6 and 2x12 boards for the shelves and bench top. I then screwed and glued on 1" plywood for the bench top. I encountered the same problem you did with mounting my RCBS Rock Chucker to the top. I did my best beaver imitation about gnawing away just enough wood to allow handle clearance. I also have my Hornady Pro-Jector press about 4` away from the Chucker. I know I overbuilt the bench, I just wanted a strong long lasting bench for my work. If I ever sell and move, the bench will stay with the house due to where it is and the weight.Robert

[kmw1954]

tstowater that is a nice job on the bench. With the two sheets of 3/4" ply on the top and the 2X4 rail across the front I don't think you will lose anything in the way of strength or rigidity by cutting a small notch. If that is still a concern then you could possibly add a piece if 1/8"X2"X2" aluminum angle under the bench into the top and front rail. I've done this in boats and it won't move.

[triggerhappy243]

My bench tops are all covered in formica., If you did not want to go that route, you can apply spar urethane. Knotch out just enough wood, and then glue a short piece(14 inches long) behind it and clamp it over night. You then will need 2- 6 and 1/2 inch 5/16 bolts to bolt each press down. I know........ I just did it.

[jimkim]

I would add some trim on the front. You could also add it all the way around and use it to make a lip on the back and sides. If you wanted you could notch the trim for your press, and have a lip all the way around.

[Petrol & Powder]

My bench tops are all covered in formica., If you did not want to go that route, you can apply spar urethane. Knotch out just enough wood, and then glue a short piece(14 inches long) behind it and clamp it over night. You then will need 2- 6 and 1/2 inch 5/16 bolts to bolt each press down. I know........ I just did it.

Exactly what I was thinking. The quick fix without adding a "lip" to the bench top would be to make a notch for clearance and then reinforce behind the notch. Marry another piece behind the front board and secure with a few carriage bolts and nuts outside of the footprint of the press.

[tstowater]

Did a little exploring on the issue last night. I think the fastest and maybe the best solution is the notch the 2x4 to give the loader the clearance it needs for the handle/ram to operate. Depending on the amount of wood that I need to cut out, I may not need to put a brace/cripple on the backside. Either way is fine, but a brace will change the mounting process some.

Some of you are much more organized and skilled at dressing up the bench for looks. I was lamenting to a friend one time about the mess I had and he thought mine was quite good as he claimed his pile ran up at a 45 degree angle from the front of the bench to the back. I want to get as much off the surface as possible, except what is needed. This will give me 3 benches: one dedicated to shotgun loaders, one to progressive rifle/handgun loaders and one for single stage presses and brass prep operations. Since neither of the other benches are stained, I am a little reluctant to stain this one and wonder what I was thinking before. Also, I have good light in the room, but a darker colored surface on a bench would absorb some of the light. I'm sure that I will figure something out that I want to do different and if I want to stain the bench, all I would have to do is turn the plywood over as it is finished on both sides.

[omgb]

I have a tad more time to respond now so I'll toss out a few solutions I tried and used. Press mounting is always a hassle, you need enough over hang to let the ram arm swing, not so much that the lip flexes and you have to have room behind the lateral rail for the mounting bolts to work. I solved the problem by re-purposing several 3/8" steel plates that came in a Sears roll-away tool chest. The plates were weights to demonstrate the ball bearings on the drawer slides. I drilled these for the mounting bolts and then used a forester bit to make clearance holes in the bench top for the bolt heads to nestle so the plate fits flush on the bench top. I uses 11/2" deck screws to secure the plate to the bench top. The plate is bolted to the press and then screwed to the bench top. It's completely inflexible and easily moved when one want to dismount the press.

As to the bench itself. I made a simple frame of 2x4s with 2x4 braces running perpendicular to the front and rear rails. I added legs made from 2x4s glued and screwed together and bolted with stove bots through the side and front rails. I then braced the bottom of the legs with 2x4 rails and mounted a sheet of plywood to form a bottom shelf. The top is 3/4" plywood glued and screwed to the top rails and braces. Then I added 3" hard-rubber swivel wheels to the bottom of the legs so that I can move the bench around. Those perpendicular braces under the bench top ensure there is no flex or bounce in the top. The bottom shelf along with the robust nature of the legs makes sure there is no movement in the bench frame either.

[EDG]

I have a work bench with two sheets of 3/4" plywood on top.

I put 3 industrial work bench legs like these from Lowe's on it and it will hold up to any press with no frame.
The 3rd leg in the middle of the bench makes it strong enough to hold up several hundred pounds without sagging.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Edsal-28-in-H-x-36-in-W-x-4-in-D-Flared-Fixed-Height-Steel-Work-Bench-Legs-5708/204417827?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D59-Storage&Organization|&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgJq-BRCFqcLW8_DU9agBEiQAz8Koh5MHSbZ5gNEl4nuv-oPU8Yp__gSKGALw5ekei_3cBOoaArKp8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

[BCB]

I just drilled a 1-inch hole where the handle was hitting...

Problem solved...

Sorry for the quality of the pic...

Good-luck...BCB

[Petrol & Powder]

I love the simplicity of that solution!