Best Bullet Puller

[jrbal3173]

I have a few bullets that need pulled due to setting too short. I have looked online and there are so many options. I have a Forster Co-Ax press and I know that Forster makes what looks to be a decent bullet puller. Does anybody have any thoughts on it? Or what do you use that you've had great success with and that doesn't completely destroy the bullet.

Thanks

[Paper Puncher]

For jacketed bullets the Hornady cam lock is the best I have found. It is fast and easy to operate. The RCBS collet puller works ok but is much slower and the bullets tended to stick in the collet taking time to remove them. It was also much harder on the hands using the small rod.

Collet pullers tend to deform boolits. I use an impact puller (looks like a plastic hammer). Seems to work the best and they are cheap. I have used RCBS, Midway, they all seem to work about the same.

Steve

[sirgknight]

The only puller that I have used is the Franklin kinetic puller, going on 15 years now. It has surpassed all of my expectations: low cost (under $20), durability (used it over 15 years and still using the original o-rings) and non-damaging to components (leaves no marks and allows for reuse of brass, powder and bullet). Not to say that there aren't better "mouse traps" on the market, I simply like the kinetic method.

[ray h]

Couple things I did to the RCBS puller was to polish the outside of the collet so it released from the die body easier. I bought a thrust bearing from MSC that had fitted over the handle that screws into the collet. I had bent the handle over the years from pulling bullets. The thrust bearing GREATLY reduced the effort to closing and opening plus it sped up the process.

[DerekP Houston]

The only puller that I have used is the Franklin kinetic puller, going on 15 years now. It has surpassed all of my expectations: low cost (under $20), durability (used it over 15 years and still using the original o-rings) and non-damaging to components (leaves no marks and allows for reuse of brass, powder and bullet). Not to say that there aren't better "mouse traps" on the market, I simply like the kinetic method.

I use the franklin as well. If the boolits are *really* stuck, run em through the sizing die with the decapping pin removed. It'll squish down the boolit a bit and make it easier to remove. Salvaged some wadcutters missing powder that way though I had to recast the lead.

[John Boy]

Kinetic puller! Fast - easy and no deformed lead bullets

[Lead Fred]

I have two kinetic pullers, the spare is still in the package. I use it all the time. I also have a collet puller which I rarely use.

[historicfirearms]

I used a hammer type kinetic puller for years until it broke last year. Out of necessity, I had to pull a few bullets and improvised. I took the die out of my single stage press and put the loaded round in the shell holder, raised the ram all the way up, then grab the bullet with dikes and lower the ram. It is fast and easy, but will ruin the bullet. Not a big deal with cast, I just recycle them. I wouldn't want to do it with expensive J-words, but I don't shoot many of them either.

[daboone]

If you use a kinetic bullet puller do yourself a favor and change out the collet for the one made by Quinetics. You'll never need to remove the cap or collet again between whackings.

[jrbal3173]

I guess I was mistaken in assuming that powder would go everywhere with a kinetic puller. From what you are all saying it sounds like that is not the case and kinetic is the way to go. Honestly, that was my main concern and reason for looking into the collet pullers.

[metricmonkeywrench]

I have done it a few times recently with my Franklin on some 38 and 357 RNFP bullets where the ogive of the bullets had some variation and set my bullets .003~.005 too deep. I believe the package of bullets I was using came from two different batches. I have a single stage press and my process seats and crimps the bullet in separate steps so knocking the bullets back out a few thou was easy.

My other use is range pick up duds to save the brass. Since I use it for knocking apart multiple rounds I consider the captured powder contaminated and dispose of it.

[DerekP Houston]

I guess I was mistaken in assuming that powder would go everywhere with a kinetic puller. From what you are all saying it sounds like that is not the case and kinetic is the way to go. Honestly, that was my main concern and reason for looking into the collet pullers.

Oh, powder goes everywhere when I do it. If you are slow and careful you can pour the powder out from the puller.

[Guardian]

Collet for volume, kinetic for the occasional.

If you use the LNL bushings, the RCBS type is a pain as it unlocks the bushing every time you unlock the collet.

If it's just a matter of the bullet set too deep, you don't have to remove the bullet with the kinetic type, just bump it until the OAL is longer than you wanted and reseat.

[RogerDat]

Kinetic only seem to work well on concrete floor or steel welding table. Any wood and there is just a touch too much cushion using up the force. At least when I do them. If doing more than a couple I might suggest gloves, I did 20 rounds and got a blister from mine. Hammer rubbed in an odd spot since the handle was not full thickness like a regular hammer handle. Did lose some powder (not much) if I was going too fast and did an extra swing after the bullet came out.

[Dimner]

I used the kinetic puller (per the directions using a block of wood on concrete) and had good luck for about 2 months. Then I tried to pull some heavily crimped 22 hornet bullets from PPU and the puller shattered.

I didn't like the kinetic puller due to the noise and the powder going everywhere when the bullet is free.

I switched to the RCBS puller. It's simply amazing. I can even pull cast bullets without marring them. Just need to pull them from a lube groove. Great puller. Well worth the money. No complaints.

[sparky45]

I've used a kinetic puller for a number of years (1978 - to present), and recently got into a Hornady cam lock system. For a quick one or two pulled bullets, the kinetic is great; any more and I go the the Hornady cam lock. The Hornady is much faster and if you're pulling jacketed there's almost no visible marks on the projectile.

[jrbal3173]

Awesome. Thank you all for the responses. It sounds like both styles are useful for different purposes and styles. I greatly appreciate all of your comments.

[Geezer in NH]

I use a kinetic for a few i.e.. under 10 rounds then will go to a puller press based I use an RCBS set.

I try not to mess up so I don't need to.
To pull millsurp, collet all the way.

[alamogunr]

I use a kinetic that I got from Midway about 20 years ago. Several years ago, I threw away the 3 piece collet that is held together with an "O" ring and started using a regular shellholder as recommended by someone on this board. Much better.

[triggerhappy243]

I have both............ and I use both. Just depends what needs to be done to what.

[jimkim]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160826/e91bcc543927ab9860eceb67a9f789aa.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160826/118ae4d19cf610870ceaf2774ac42ad8.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160826/1711c85cb4878c07b66015f5cfef5da7.jpg

I either use a kinetic puller or a press with a multitool or needlenose pliers. One thing tbat really helps is to bump the bullet with a seater and break the neck tension. When I use pliers or a multitool, and an aluminum press I put a Lee FCD body(remove the collet) in the press to protect the threads. In an iron press, I don't bother with that. I raise the ram with the round in the shellholder. I lightly grasp the bullet and lower the ram. The sides of the pliers will engage the hole, and self tighten while the bullet is pulled. One neat thing is, it only uses whatever pressure is necessary to pull the bullet. It selfadjusts the tension. I don't do it with boolits, with them I use side cutters or dikes. If I get any marks at all on the jackets they are very light.

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[Teddy (punchie)]

I have both............ and I use both. Just depends what needs to be done to what.

Same here, both. The only trouble with the Hammer style is they will break. Sharp taps, its not a hammer. If I treat it like a hammer they break.

[Guardian]

One thing to remember with the kinetic pullers is you want to follow through the motion. You're trying to make it act like a deadblow hammer, no recoil. You want all the energy transferred to the bullet, not displaced into a bounce. Once you get in the habit of that, you won't lose powder, either. The deliberate manner required to create the follow through will give you enough time to see the bullet came out before you sling the powder on the next backswing.

[Taterhead]

Little 224 cal bullets can be tough to pull with a kinetic hammer. I generally like collet pullers for rifle bullets and kinetic puller for heavier pistol bullets. Pulling bullets with a collet puller is a much more enjoyable experience, in my opinion. The one-off is more convenient with a kinetic, however (as long as not a 224 bullet).

FWIW, I use an RCBS collet puller on the Rock Chucker, and it works great. A piece of scrap Brazilian cherry lumber, struck on the end grain, works week for the kinetic.

[sirgknight]

Kinetic only seem to work well on concrete floor or steel welding table. Any wood and there is just a touch too much cushion using up the force. At least when I do them. If doing more than a couple I might suggest gloves, I did 20 rounds and got a blister from mine. Hammer rubbed in an odd spot since the handle was not full thickness like a regular hammer handle. Did lose some powder (not much) if I was going too fast and did an extra swing after the bullet came out.

I know what you mean....a few years ago I made the mistake of loading over 600 rounds of .38 special with the wrong primer and had to pull all of them. It didn't take long before I had a blister between my thumb and index finger. So, I wrapped the kinetic handle with foam rubber to make it thick and spungee and wrapped it with electrical tape. The handle is now comfortable to use.

[JSnover]

I guess I was mistaken in assuming that powder would go everywhere with a kinetic puller. From what you are all saying it sounds like that is not the case and kinetic is the way to go. Honestly, that was my main concern and reason for looking into the collet pullers.
I use the kinetic puller and the other members are right to recommend light taps and 'follow-through.' If you have a problem with powder spilling out the cap, just put a piece of tape over it.

[Kevin Rohrer]

Another question that has been asked many times. Kinetics are good for lead bullets. Collet-types are good for jacketed bullets.

My RCBS works fine.

175279

[tstowater]

I found that the kinetic is okay for a few bullets. If you figure out that you might have made a bigger mistake, then a collet type works better. Seems that I recall acquiring a Forster for that purpose and does the job well. I think that I may have acquired a RCBS in one of the former loader acquisitions.... now if I remember where I put it.

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[mjwcaster]

Kinetic puller, with the right work surface.
Finally broke my first on, using soft pine scraps that needed multiple hits.

Upgraded to a chunk of old oak log, and one hit does it all.

Also learned to use a lead ingot from this site, works great also, and much easier to move around than the large oak log.


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[1hole]

There is no "best" puller; each type - collet and inertia - has its place. A well rounded reloader will have both. (Forster has <or used to have> a third and totally different type bullet puller that fits into the Co-Ax's die lock ring slot and has a steel disc "donut" that automatically locks on the bullets so they can be pulled easily.)

Puller collets require a lot of exposed full diameter bullet body to clamp onto. Thus, for short/light rifle bullets and most hand gun bullets, the collet types often won't work at all. And it's nearly impossible to use a collet puller in a Co-Ax press anyway, you can't very well tighten down on the things even if you find one that will slip into the operating lever yoke.

Impact pullers are a bit slower but work on anything. The "solution" for the problem of tossing powder is to pay attention to what you'tr doing and stop hammering when the bullet has been pulled.

Jacketed bullets sometimes form a metallic bond between the case neck and bullet jacket which can make it quite difficult to break the bond. I always run any ammo to be pulled through a seater die adjusted to push the bullet a few thou deeper to break that bond and ease pulling.

[fatelvis]

I like using this:
http://grip-n-pull.com/?gclid=CJnF3fi3h88CFYY0aQodoo8Gog


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[dverna]

Yep, I have both.

I must be lucky. I bought the RCBS collet type over 25 years ago and have never used it. Nice to know it is there if I get a brain phart and need to disassemble a lot of rounds, or I get the deal of a lifetime on Mil surp and want to salvage components.

[marlin39a]

I have the RCBS collet system that I use when I come across other peoples reloads. Works pretty good. For infrequent breakdown of my mistakes I use the hammer.

[ackleyman]

Hornady Cam Loct is the best by far!

[shooterg]

Gotta agree the Cam-Lock is the best for jacketed. Plus 1 on seating deeper before pulling - mandatory on military stuff with sealant.
Mostly use the "hammer" type with shellholders. Nice to have 'em all when needed.

[2011redrider]

Your OP shows its for a Coax press, so the RCBS won't allow you to tighten the collets. Would have to be the Hornady or the Forster that was made for the Coax press. The lock ring has an extended cross bolt to allow the collet to be adjusted without the die spinning. The Hornady would be the easiest since it only takes the lever to adjust and lock onto the bullets.
http://www.forsterproducts.com/product-category/reloading-tools/bullet-pullers/

[M-Tecs]

IMHO this are the outstanding

http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Forster+superfast+%28possum+type%29&isNewKw=1&_sacat=&cnm=&mfs=&acimp=&_trksid=&sqp=forster+superfast+%28possum+type%29

[OutHuntn84]

I prefer kinetic pullers myself if it's just a few bullets. A few things I have learned though is they will break if you hit them against concrete or metal. It may pull the bullet faster but will break the plastic, so I use a piece of split oak. Also make sure you tighten down the head and check it after a few wacks. If it's lose the energy will transfer to the head and collet and not the bullet and break it. However the R&D on this has left me with a lifetime supply of O rings and collets lol.

[Walter Laich]

Here is a cheap and easy way to pull cast bullets.
Does put a few divots in bullet, though
(Ignore last three pictures on page--they are for a different thread)

http://www.jm-leather.com/pulling_bullets.htm

[gefiltephish]

I use a kinetic that I got from Midway about 20 years ago. Several years ago, I threw away the 3 piece collet that is held together with an "O" ring and started using a regular shellholder as recommended by someone on this board. Much better.

I've been out of the loop for a while so maybe I've missed something. I realize how tempting it is to use shellholders for this purpose, however... I thought it had been established several years ago that shellholders can allow the cartridge to move off center potentially alllowing the primer to hit the edge of the shellholder hole. As I recall there were some kabooms that brought this to our attention.

It's easy to simulate how this can happen. Hold the whole assembly up sideways (for lack of better term) at eye level with the shellholder slot at 6 o'clock, gravity alone may be enough to force the cartridge off center. Perhaps larger diameter shells that are closer to the id of the puller can't move far enough off center, but I'm not sure of this. Comparatively, the collet holds the cartridge perfectly centered, and there is nothing for the primer to hit on anyway. In any case, the potential disaster hardly seems worth the risk. Use a collet.

[GONRA]

“Pulling down 7.62x25mm Tokarev LSC Czech SMG ammo on 8 rd. clips” saga:

In 1990’s purchased several cases “hard primers, unreliable” stuff to pull down.

Looong ago used an inertial puller for 1000 rd. each Paragon .380 ACP and 9mm pulldown project.
But failed for this Czech ammo! Upgraded, stronger version of GONRA might have verked?

So, gotta Hornady Cam-Lock puller from Midway.
(Noticed afterward, Hornady markets this for RIFLE boolits!)
Pulled these PISTOL boolits but scared ‘em up. Bet its Just Fine for rifle boollits!
(Custom collet would have verked!).

My (well used) olde Forster-Appelt Collet Style Bullet Puller (eyeballs same as current Forster product) verked PERFCTLY in my Lee Classic Cast Press 90998 .
No rotating collet screw handle interference like in my Hollywood press.

Proper Forster setup is tricky. Be sure to grease the collet screw threads also cam nose end of collet.
(NOT inside the collet!)
Screw in the die until loading press handle movement is present when starting
to tighten the boolit collet screw on a loaded cartridge with loading press ram “all the way up”.
This means the collet will have maximum possible “boolit grip length”.

Needed a huge open end/adjustable wrench with looong jaws to bear on the boolit collet screw lever,
to properly tighten the collet screw so collet didn’t slip off the boolit.
Again, an upgraded, stronger version of GONRA might have just have grabbed the Forster lever?
Anyway, made perfect “no mar” pulls.

Can afford to have plenty of “setup screwups” in salvage projects like this.
Not always the case when “pulling down precious reloads” of course.
For me, any scarred boolits are great for Initial Handload Development.

So, find a puller and develop a technique to suit for YOUR particular situation.
Try to plan ahead to garner all the pull down stuff you need BEFORE tearing down the setup.
Once you get a successful pulldown process, may be difficult to setup “as well” again.

[Taterhead]

Well, the threaded cap on my kinetic puller cracked, and the top of the cap flew off. A quick call to RCBS, and a replacement is on the way. No questions asked. Great customer service!

That thing has pulled at least 1000 bullets.

[Norske]

If the case holder in a kinetic puller breaks, a reloading press shell holder works even better.

[Taterhead]

If the case holder in a kinetic puller breaks, a reloading press shellholder works even better.

You're right that it does work, but should never be done with a loaded round. It is sloppy contact with the cartridge, and at the right combination of angles, the primer can find its way to a protruding corner or the holder and bad things can happen. The collet that comes with the puller keeps the primer clear of influence.

[maxreloader]

190009
190010
My bullet pulling setup

[AZ Pete]

Your OP shows its for a Coax press, so the RCBS won't allow you to tighten the collets. Would have to be the Hornady or the Forster that was made for the Coax press. The lock ring has an extended cross bolt to allow the collet to be adjusted without the die spinning. The Hornady would be the easiest since it only takes the lever to adjust and lock onto the bullets.
http://www.forsterproducts.com/product-category/reloading-tools/bullet-pullers/

The RCBS collet can be used in a CO-AX. You just have to tighten the collet onto the bullet, then put it all in the press. The shell holder will snap,over the case rim when you raise it. Works for me. I usually use a kinetic though, it's just faster.


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