Bench top thickness for press

[metricmonkeywrench]

I am currently in the process of converting one of our bedrooms into a hobby room, with the wifies approval, where my press will be relocated from the unheated/cooled garage. The construction is rather simple, 2x4 triangle bases will be lag bolted to the wall to the studs hiding under the latt and plaster to avoid "legs" and have a more open feeling. Hopefully in the press area the top plate of the triangle will be a 2x6 to mount the press and double up the angle piece to transfer the force. The top will be secured from underneath and to cleats along the wall to minimize pull out.

My question now is what thickness/materal should I use where the press is to be mounted if I cannot locate the press at a reinforced brace? The current plan is at leas an inch of particle board and MDF and covered with laminate

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I have a 3/4 piece of plywood on top with hardboard over that so it's nice and smooth

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I have a solid core door as a table top, covered with glued on laminate flooring. If I spill something, I just wipe it off. It's about 2" thick give or take 1/4" or so.

Have a blessed evening,

Leon

[Boolit_Head]

Really kind of depends on the usage. A swaging press will put a lot more force on a bench than a rock chucker.

[country gent]

My one bench top is 1" ply wood with a aluinum sheet covering it holds up good and looks good. the solidist one is a buther block style from 2/4s on edge glued and doweled together, finding long enough bolts is a problem at times though. 2X4s or 2x6s layed flat make a solid bench top. cut the sides just enough to get square corners with a table saw and done right it will look like one solid piece. A solid bench top is also dependant on the under suppor or frame work under it. Use glue and screws supports and frame it solidly. A box structure under it from 2x4s with a couple cross suports depending on length. Every 12"-18" is good. Again use glue and screws top fasten together at the joints. With a solid frame work underneath the top and a good top it should be rock solid. to help stiffen the angled sides a piece of 1/4"-3/8" plywood cut to match and glued and screwed onto the insides of them will help alot to stiffen them up more also.

[NavyVet1959]

I make made mine out of 2x8s glued and doweled together and 2x4 cross pieces periodically running crosswise underneath that are connected via carriage bolts to every 2x8. If I have a hole in it from moving something that is mounted to it, all I need to do is create a dutchman or glue a dowel / peg into the hole and cut it off flush on the top and bottom and then sand it.

A sturdy table for a reloading press is nice to have. Don't scrimp on the materials.

[OS OK]

Put it together with big screws and glue the joints.
I did a double laminated top of 3/4" plywood, not pressboard.
You can router the top edge next to the edge with a 1/2 round bit and catch all the little thing that like to roll off the table.

[MaLar]

I use a solid core door not metal. I put some kind of finish on don't remember what.
I once used 2X12's for a bench split them suckers. The door has lasted for a decade.

[Ola]

I clued together 3 pcs of 1/2" plywoods and framed it with 2x4's. The bench is quite nice.

[jsizemore]

I glued 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together.

[Greg S]

Glued and screwed two pieces of 3/4 ply together. Once dried, clamped a straight edge to the front, trimmed it even and covered the laminations with an oak 1x2 glue, counter sunkmscrew with caps.

[tja6435]

Butcher block made with 2x4's and all thread topped with one thickness of 2"x12" held down with construction adhesive and 3.5" deck screws. It doesn't move/flex even for the swage press.

[NavyVet1959]

My bench top made from 2x8s has lasted around 22 years so far. I had originally painted it with an oil based paint, but a few years ago, I sanded it down and used Danish oil on it instead. I have 3 presses mounted on one side and a drill press mounted on the other side.

[kentuckyshooter]

Not to hijack the tread but in also getting ready to build a bench. My plans called for 2x4s to box the top with a 2x4 every 2 foot for a cross brace. I was gonna top it with a sheet of 3/4 plywood. I figured it would be sturdy enough for my needs but after reading what the rest of you have built I don't know if I'm thinking to flimsy. I done for see it ever getting hard shop use but I don't want it splitting out with my single stage. Might go ahead and install the plate I made for the current desk set up I have been running just in case.

[Ickisrulz]

Reloading benches are fairly cheap to make so over engineering them doesn't raise the cost all that much.

I have a bench with a top made from edge glued 2x6s. The front and back rails are 2x6s and the legs are 4x4s. They are joined using mortise and tenons. The rails have additional supports joining them from front to back offering more support. It is very sturdy. Make sure you get the bench height correct from your height. This will help prevent backaches. I gather many people make them too short.

[rda72927]

I have made several bench tops in my work area, and I have really liked 2 layers of 3/4 MDF. A 3x8 weighs 72 lbs, so I have a bench top that weighs 150 lbs and doesn't change shape. So, if you go to buy a 4x8 sheet (96 lbs) take some help.

[w5pv]

stay away from the particle board period!Mine is made from 2x12s and is very sturdy,No problems what so ever.

[Iron Whittler]

My bench is built with 2X6 frame, front to back joists on 12" center. 2X6 on top run length of bench. First layer of 3/4 B&C plywood glued & screwed to 2X6 top. Second layer glued & screwed to first layer with 3 1/2 deck screws. Legs are 4x6 and are secured with 3/8" carage head bolts. Bench is secured to wall studs. Bench is finished with spar varnish. Makes for a stout, good looking 2ft. wide X 8ft. long load bench. My reloading and swaging presses are bolted in place. I have not been able to detect any movement of the bench when using any of the presses including the RCE W-H swaging press.:castmine::swagemine::guntootsmiley:

[alamogunr]

I built my bench top from 2"+ particle board. Not the kind most are familiar with. This stuff is extremely dense. The glue that binds it had to withstand decades of submersion in hot transformer oil. My 8' bench top weighs over 200 lbs.

I built it from plans in this book with a few modifications:

http://tinyurl.com/zjrujfb

You can get an idea(but not much more) from the picture of the cover.

[sirgknight]

All of my frame work was done with 2x4's using decking screws. When it came to the table top I used 3/4" MDF board and covered it with plastic stick-on shelving paper to protect from drink spills, etc. I then placed 2x4 support legs between my presses and the base of my frame-work. By using the support legs I eliminated all movement from the pressure used in raising and lowering the ram arms. My bench has lasted almost 20 years without any repairs or replacements and my presses are just as sturdy as the day the bench was built. Notice the 2x4 mounted directly under the two presses. They do not budge no matter how much pressure I apply upwards or downwards.

[Ola]

You probably all know this, but there is a huge difference also in plywoods. Here (Finland) we have 3 different kinds:

"softwood plywood" (made out of spruce, cheap, light, quite flimsy, ugly)
"birch plywood"
"mix plywood" (some layers are birch, some are spruce).

And , of course, I made my bench out of this "soft wood" version. It was not a fatal mistake, but I should have used birch plywood as a top layer. It would have made the bench even better..

[6622729]

I have a solid core door as a table top, covered with glued on laminate flooring. If I spill something, I just wipe it off. It's about 2" thick give or take 1/4" or so.

Have a blessed evening,

Leon

Me too! Solid core door with press mounted directly to it with 3 bolts. No backers, no other reinforcement. Cheap from Lowes or Home Depot dropped onto a set of steel saw horses. The whole thing can be broken down seconds to go outside for a good cleaning or to sweep up the reloading area.

[DerekP Houston]

I glued 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together.

I took an existing worn out PC desk, added 2 layers of 3/4" oak plywood on top and reinforced the legs with 2x4's. There is still a slight bit of wobble to it which I wish I could fix, but it works fell enough for my purposes. I will eventually build a new workbench with 4x4 posts for legs and much sturdier but other projects came first. The idea of using a solid core door for the top seems genius!.

I should add, I need to lag bolt mine to the studs in the wall still...that would require moving everything *off* the bench though and getting it moved over slightly :D

[country gent]

3/4" plywood will work good with a good solid frame under it. 2X6s for sides 2x4s dront and back a 2x4 cross beam every 12"-14" with just 3/4" top cross braces need to be a little closer to give more support. These joints need to be glued and screwed together #10 3'- 3 1/2" deck screws at minimum and a good wood glue. The top needs to be flat and level no bumps or low spots and a nice rough surface. This frame is the strength and rididity to your bench top. when you install the 3/4" plywood glue with heavy glue you want to see a bead run out on the edges. I like the newer gorilla glues that expand into the wood grain. And now like a sub floor a #10X 2 1/2"-3" deck screw every 6" on each rail this pulls it down tight and flat to the sub frame. You can ether put the screw heads flush with the top or slightly under and .060-.090 below surface. If you inset them a drop of glue on each one and rough sand will fill them in making for a flat smooth table. Once filled level let dry and then finish sand. I drive them flush and let them show, this way when mounting a tool you dont "find" them drilling the holes. The bench tops strength and rigidity comes from the sub frame as much as the top. 2 x6s and 2x4s on edge provide for a very solid subframe under the top and the top provides strength to stop wiggles in the frame side to side.

[alamogunr]

If you look closely at the picture in the link I posted previously, you can see that the legs are 1 thicknesses of ¾" plywood. I used 2 thicknesses. Cutting a semi-circle out and a little work with a plane and sandpaper you have legs that will set on almost any floor w/o rocking.

That bench in the book shows 1" plywood but the author changed to particle board(MDF?) for reasons of economy I guess.

For some reason the author of the book only spec'ed the top to set proud of the front brace about 1". I sized my top to have the brace set back about 3". This allows me to use "C" clamps for tools that I don't want to install permanently.

Despite my preference for my bench, I can't find fault with anything that has been posted. Each of us has details that are important to us and can be modified to be included in another design. I won't be building another loading bench, but I enjoy reading about what others build.

[Tackleberry41]

I used a chunk of counter top I had pulled out of a business my ex used to own. Just cut a notch on the front edge for the press to sit back a little further and the bolts catch the 2x4 underneath. A turret press, so not doing any heavy work. But going to mount my single stage on it soon, dont see any issues.

[imashooter2]

2 inches minimum. MDF is junk and not suited to the task. Stiffness is what you want, not just strength.

[NavyVet1959]

stay away from the particle board period!Mine is made from 2x12s and is very sturdy,No problems what so ever.

Agreed. Particle board has it's strength in compression, not in tension. In other words, it is strong as vertical supports (which is why it is used on the side pieces of cheaper furniture and kitchen/bathroom cabinets), but has little strength if you use it horizontally as a shelf. And if you get it wet, it swells and disintegrates. Stay away from that stuff at all costs.

High Density MDF is different and many say that it is acceptable, but for the cost, I would just as well stick with solid wood.

[Guardian]

I've got multiple "reloading" benches and no two are made the same. Two of them I built and two were inherited, so to speak.

Bench 1
I built using 2x4 pine framing with 4x4 pine legs and single layer of 3/4-in oak plywood 2-ft x 4-ft for the bench top and a shelf. The major design flaw was insetting the plywood into the 2x4 framing. This made the press sit on the top edge of the front 2x4 and resulted in twisting, pulling the screws out in time. It would have been fine for typical reloading duties had the plywood been placed over the 2x4s and had cross braces under it. Live and learn. It's survived through later modifications. Adding a Inline Fabrication double bin bracket to the LNL-AP stiffened it considerably. It will be retired before much longer. That's the left bench in the first pic of post 1351 here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12392-Loading-bench-pics/page68

Bench 2
This bench came with my wife. :) Seriously! It was built entirely from 2x6 pine. There was 1/8-in or so spacing between the top planks. It's not a bad bench, but allows little stuff to fall through. It worked just fine for her setup. I just used it for a prep station. That's the right bench in the first pic of post 1351 here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12392-Loading-bench-pics/page68

Bench 3
I built this bench a couple years ago. The legs are pine 4x4s with pine 2x4 framing and triple 3/4-in oak plywood bench tops on top of the framing. Pine 1x3s were used to trim the plywood. It's heavy and it doesn't move. I'd do that again. That bench is shown in post 1364 here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12392-Loading-bench-pics/page68

Bench 4
This is an industrial bench that was used for metal working. It's a metal frame with a 2-in thick butcher block top. I had my swaging presses set up on it with no issues. It's stout! I did build risers for the presses since the bench was so low. I don't have a photo of mine, but here's something similar. http://p2.la-img.com/1325/33582/13631178_1_l.jpg

[NavyVet1959]

Not to hijack the tread but in also getting ready to build a bench. My plans called for 2x4s to box the top with a 2x4 every 2 foot for a cross brace. I was gonna top it with a sheet of 3/4 plywood. I figured it would be sturdy enough for my needs but after reading what the rest of you have built I don't know if I'm thinking to flimsy. I done for see it ever getting hard shop use but I don't want it splitting out with my single stage. Might go ahead and install the plate I made for the current desk set up I have been running just in case.

Personally, I would I would use box joints on the corners and rabbet an edge on the inside of the box (using a table saw or a router) for the 3/4" plywood to sit down into so that the edge of the plywood does not show.

I have a piece of 3/4" plywood that I glued and nailed a 1x2 trim piece around the edge to hide the grain and give a bit more resistance to bending that I originally made for a computer table top across two 2-drawer file cabinets over 30 years ago. I sanded, stained, and then put tung oil on it and it is still around and being used to this day -- not as a reloading table top though.

If you really want strong supports for a reloading bench, put the table top on top of cinder blocks that are mortared to the concrete while also being filled with concrete in addition to having a piece of rebar inside of them.

One thing you need to consider though with any design is whether your placement of the support boards will interfere with the bolts that you use to bolt the presses to the top.

[NavyVet1959]

Bench 3
I built this bench a couple years ago. The legs are pine 4x4s with pine 2x4 framing and triple 3/4-in oak plywood bench tops on top of the framing. Pine 1x3s were used to trim the plywood. It's heavy and it doesn't move. I'd do that again. That bench is shown in post 1364 here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12392-Loading-bench-pics/page68

You bring up a point here that probably should be elaborated on... It's often nice to have multiple levels in your reloading bench since sometimes you want to perform an operation standing while other times you might want to do it while sitting.

When I'm casting with my bottom pour pot, I like to be sitting and the bottom of the pot at a level that allows me to see the stream of lead going into the mold more easily. Sometimes though, I like to cast with a bottom pour ladle that I created and as such, I want the top of the pot to be lower than my elbows. Depending upon whether I'm sitting or standing, that means up to four different levels for the pot.

For reloading though, I can either stand or sit if I use a bar stool and it equals the same level.

Just something to consider...

[Hick]

My bench is a 30 inch long piece of un-reinforced 2x12 pine in a corner of my den, sitting on a tiny 'Walmart' desk, bolted to one stud in the wall just to eliminate the wiggle.

[dikman]

Bottom line - make it as thick as you can! I saved the benchtop when we replaced our kitchen - approx. 2" thick, dense moisture-resistant particle board with a laminate top and attached to a heavy subframe. Even this can move slightly when seating primers!!!

While cantilevering it out from the wall, as you're suggesting, might look neat in my opinion there's no substitute for having good solid legs near where the presses are located.

[irishtoo]

2 layers of 3/4" mdf, glued and screwed together, then cut and trimed to fit a section of wall in my garage. it rests on 3 industial lab cabinets. finished with several coats of varnish. 10 years so far so good. irishtoo.

[Blanket]

my favorite bench is 2x8 frame, 4x4 legs, 2x12 front to back, covered with 3/4 marine plywood and vinyl laminate

[RogerDat]

You have a choice a lot of strength in a thick / solid top or a good amount of bracing in key locations. My top is 3/8 OSB with glued strips of it running front to back. So 3/8 for about 60% and 3/4 for about 40%. I used plans for this one http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/how-to-build-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench/view-all

However I added a front to back angle brace for the shelf underneath and short block of 2x4 under front edge where press is mounted. Presses are on 5/8 plywood bases which are attached with counter sunk bolts and wing nuts under the bench top. Whole thing is glued with construction adhesive (liquid nails) and screwed with counter sunk #10 screws. I have no problem with frame flexing, and not much flex in the table either. However if I was doing it over I would purchase 3/4 plywood and use screen molding to finish edges. I had the two sheets of glued up OSB already in the basement, wife practiced tap dancing on it, replaced with better dance floor so kept price down by using once fired OSB for bench top.

Guess you could say my reloading bench top was "reloaded" wood.

[metricmonkeywrench]

All, thanks for all the input and an update of sorts from some Q&A I have gotten. I probably should have included more detail up front. The bench will be an L shape 6 ft on the long leg and about 2ft on the short side near the window with a 2ft working depth. I'm including a picture for the lay of the land below. The press will be mounted to the right on the short leg of the L. The blue dots indicate the locations of the studs I have available to work with. the lamp is sitting about where the corner of the bench will be. Laying on the floor is one of the triangle braces that I am building for the general supports. I have yet to build the press support but more or less double width on top and a second down brace. Because of the hardwood floors I am determined to not have legs, but if need be I can add them later. A couple other thoughts, I have a heavy benches in the garage built of 2x4's, a kitchen counter a bench of kitchen cabinets with 3/4 ply and a sears shop table covered in a 1in thick block of MDF. As this is in the house proper and I'm not planning on rebuilding any transmissions or engines I believe I can get away with lighter construction except for the press area.

175214

[Boolit_Head]

I've had lighter benches with the idea of strengthening around the press. It did not work well, you are better off to overbuild a bit.

[dpoe001]

My bench is a little heavy duty built in the late 80s.i went to an old barn that had fallen down i found a 2 inch thick about 12 foot long piece of chestnut i cut it in three pieces and put an 1/8 inch steel plate on top.At the time i wanted something heavy duty I was young and everything was free.

[NavyVet1959]

All, thanks for all the input and an update of sorts from some Q&A I have gotten. I probably should have included more detail up front. The bench will be an L shape 6 ft on the long leg and about 2ft on the short side near the window with a 2ft working depth. I'm including a picture for the lay of the land below. The press will be mounted to the right on the short leg of the L. The blue dots indicate the locations of the studs I have available to work with. the lamp is sitting about where the corner of the bench will be. Laying on the floor is one of the triangle braces that I am building for the general supports. I have yet to build the press support but more or less double width on top and a second down brace. Because of the hardwood floors I am determined to not have legs, but if need be I can add them later. A couple other thoughts, I have a heavy benches in the garage built of 2x4's, a kitchen counter a bench of kitchen cabinets with 3/4 ply and a sears shop table covered in a 1in thick block of MDF. As this is in the house proper and I'm not planning on rebuilding any transmissions or engines I believe I can get away with lighter construction except for the press area.


Mount a 2x4 as a cleat around the wall where the back portion rear and right side of the L shape is going to be. Put lag bolts into every wall stud. That will give you pretty good support. Even better would be to take out the sheetrock where the cleat would be and mount it directly onto the studs in the wall.

I can understand you not wanting to have the legs showing in your house, especially with the wood flooring, but you need to remember, using angle brackets like that are going to be able to withstand less downward force than if you were to put legs on it instead. Personally, I would put 3 legs on it -- one at the inside corner of the L and one on each end of the L.

One thing to consider with respect to an angled bracket like you show in your photo is proper joinery of the various pieces of wood. Just nailing or screwing the pieces together is not going to give you the strongest support for that sort of shape. Having a cutout on the back and top inside parts of the bracket and having the angled portion shaped so that it will slip into these cutouts will give you even more strength when you glue & screw the pieces together.

Plus, how many of these angle supports are you looking to put under there? I would think that you would need at least 3 and I might suggest even 4 of them -- 2 for each leg of the L. When you do that, you might start wondering how "open" it really is...

It really depends on how far you go into the reloading hobby. Many of us started out with just a single stage press mounted to a board that was then C-clamped to a coffee table, kitchen counter, or whatever. Eventually, we progressed from that.

Apparently, you have radiant heating where you are going to be putting the reloading bench, so putting cabinets there might not be the best idea for a reloading bench, but there should still be room for you to put shallow wall cabinets there to store things that you are not currently using -- powder, primers, dies, etc. Having a window there, you could even build a fume hood around it and be able to cast inside.

[EDG]

You can't really cantilever a loading bench off of the wall with no floor support. The front to back width of the table top plus the press handle may equal 5 feet. A 200 lb man on a 5 ft lever arm produces 1000 ft pound of torque. That is like sitting a cast iron Chrysler Hemi engine on it and expecting the wall studs to hold it. Something will break. You need legs under the front. You can't really make a loading bench look like a reading room so make it so that it at least stays in one piece.

[NavyVet1959]

You can't really cantilever a loading bench off of the wall with no floor support. The front to back width of the table top plus the press handle may equal 5 feet. A 200 lb man on a 5 ft lever arm produces 1000 ft pound of torque. That is like sitting a cast iron Chrysler Hemi engine on it and expecting the wall studs to hold it. Something will break. You need legs under the front. You can't really make a loading bench look like a reading room so make it so that it at least stays in one piece.

In most situations, you do not need to support that much weight, but in such designs, we don't design for the usual case, we try to design for the worst case, because to do otherwise ends up either being a safety issue or it just causes a mess and you spend more money repairing the other damage you do than it would have cost you to do it right in the first place. The wall studs are often just toe-nailed into the base plate and header. Sheetrock provides virtually no support, so the entire force that is going to be put on the wall stud is pretty much going to be resisted by just a couple of nails that have been put in the end of the wall stud at an angle. Will these nails hold or will they tear out. You should consider the fact that often the wood splits when you are toe-nailing into it and I've yet to see a builder pre-drill these types of holes. Also, when these walls are designed, they're mainly designed for vertical loads, not sideways loads. They'll support a lot more force vertically than horizontally. Just something to consider before you put a lot of force on it.

Ever used a cheater bar on a press during a situation where you were making one case from another case? Ever do anything on your reloading press with an arbor press and needed to use a cheater bar? Ever do this where you needed to put all your weight on it. That adds up in ft-lbs of torque and if you don't overbuild it with this sort of thing in mind, then you will have quite the mess when it pulls itself out of the wall. What I think many of us are trying to point out is that it's better to be safe than be sorry.

I can understand where the OP might be coming from though. His wife has told him he can use this space, but she probably also said something like, "Don't you mess up my nice wooden floor, ya hear?" I have to wonder how it's going to play out when a primer drops on the floor after depriming a case and it makes a long scratch on the floor when some steps on it and it slides. :)

One other option for the support of the bench *could* be to continue with the angled support idea, but have a set of *real* vertical support that could either be put under there when you needed to reload, or were hooked up on hinges that you could rotate into position. There still might be the issue of the legs putting indentations into the wood floor, so you might want to consider a "footer" of larger wood to distribute the load a bit while also gluing a piece of thin carpet to the bottom side of the footer. I recently installed wood floors in part of my house and I used double-sided carpet tape along with pieces cut from a thin carpeted rubber backed welcome mat from Home Depot as the source of the protector for the floor for each leg of the furniture that needed to be those rooms.

Something like this, but I think it was smaller:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMASTER-Enviroback-Charcoal-60-in-x-36-in-Recycled-Rubber-Thermoplastic-Rib-Door-Mat-60-443-1902-30000500/202072107?MERCH=RV-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-202072107-_-N

For the couches that had small legs that were only about 1" in diameter where they touched the floor, I make some larger diameter legs and put a 1" recess in the top center of them so that the original legs could sit down inside of them. The bottom of these larger diameter legs, I added the protectors made from the above welcome mat.

That mat is kind of difficult to cut with scissors, but cutting it large, gluing it to the bottom of the legs with the double sided carpet tape, and then using a single edge razor blade to trim it to size while tilting the blade about 45 degrees inward to the leg seems to work pretty good in that you don't see the carpet afterwards.

Many of us with normal legs on our reloading benches also have shelves / storage area built underneath there. That's a useful thing to have, but since the OP has radiant heaters there, that might not be an option for him. Around here, our air-conditioning and heating come from vents in the ceiling, so that's not normally a concern.

Remember: Anything worth engineering is worth OVER-engineering...

[Blanket]

if you are going to run progressive presses build a lot heavier than you think you need

[Teddy (punchie)]

A metal shop desk ( like a heavy office desk) Welded a 1/4 plate across the top for mounting presses, mounting holes for trimmers and like. Marks for where scale goes every time. Now if I could just find time to clean it off and do some loading. Other light presses on and old table me and my dad made, mostly Mec's and powder measures. Also have a butch block and a long metal table if I every get round to setting up more of the presses.

[Petrol & Powder]

175223175224175225

Just a suggestion, but if you're starting from scratch why not build a removable section of bench top?
The removable "plug" allows a flat surface and can be replaced with multiple different devices mounted to their own removable "Plug section".
I used 3 pieces of plywood glued and screwed together and made several spares plugs for presses, trimmers, sizer, etc.
The first photo shows a MEC loader in place.
A single stage and progressive press are permanently mounted on another bench and probably shouldn't be mounted on a removable section but having one or more of those sections available opens up a lot of bench top space for other tools.
For example, I don't use a case trimmer very often so I mounted mine on a removable section and keep it on a shelf until it's needed. That keeps it out of the way but convenient when needed.

[DerekP Houston]

175223175224175225

Just a suggestion, but if you're starting from scratch why not build a removable section of bench top?
The removable "plug" allows a flat surface and can be replaced with multiple different devices mounted to their own removable "Plug section".
I used 3 pieces of plywood glued and screwed together and made several spares plugs for presses, trimmers, sizer, etc.
The first photo shows a MEC loader in place.
A single stage and progressive press are permanently mounted on another bench and probably shouldn't be mounted on a removable section but having one or more of those sections available opens up a lot of bench top space for other tools.
For example, I don't use a case trimmer very often so I mounted mine on a removable section and keep it on a shelf until it's needed. That keeps it out of the way but convenient when needed.

Wow that is a slick looking design!

[Petrol & Powder]

I also agree that the OP's bench will likely need legs in addition to those brackets. And I would suggest three legs for his corner bench design; one on each end and one at the corner where the two sides meet.

That might be a really good opportunity to use steel pipe and flanges as front legs. The lower flange could be screwed to a small square of hardwood with some thin carpet glued to the bottom. That "foot" could then be nailed to the hardwood floor with a couple of finishing nails to hold it laterally and if it was ever removed there would be very little damage to the floor.
Using steel pipe (3/4" or 1" diameter) and flanges allows for easy final adjustment of length and high strength. The thin pipe takes up very little space under the bench.

[Petrol & Powder]

Wow that is a slick looking design!


Thanks !
Wish I could take credit for the design but I stole the idea from an old article.

It takes a little effort on the front end when you're building it but it really pays off in the long run.

[RogerDat]

Range pickup brass, fire formed in a loose chamber, with lube goes into the sizer die on the upstroke with a lot of force, some then stick like it was press fit bearing. The down stroke then has a 240# guy leaning on the handle and pushing down adding leveraged force to all the lead and cast iron items already sitting on the bench doing the gravity thing. Your call if your arrangement of supports would tolerate that force and weight.

Me I would add some strong floor to bench top front legs, at least 3 to support ends and L corner. I would also agree that the drywall needs to not be between the braces and the studs. It crushes and creates slop.

You might also consider running a solid board or plywood "backer" and attach the angle brackets to that. Then you can attach the backer across all studs, it will give more bench to wall attachment points, spread the force out to other legs and across the wall. Especially if you leave the drywall. Wood back under bench will also stiffen the top along the back, help keep it from flexing between brackets.

[RogerDat]

Oh and wife says look at flee markets or antique barns for some shabby but cool looking old legs you can refinish. Old furniture where table is shot but legs could be salvaged. As if nice solid 4x4's aren't good enough? Some people!

One other thought solid panel as leg, could be a cool looking piece of old furniture front or side, could be a nice piece of 1 inch plywood with edge trim, even mdf and counter top laminate if your house has sort of an Ikea style.

[Petrol & Powder]

....................

Me I would add some strong floor to bench top front legs, at least 3 to support ends and L corner. I would also agree that the drywall needs to not be between the braces and the studs. It crushes and creates slop.

You might also consider running a solid board or plywood "backer" and attach the angle brackets to that. Then you can attach the backer across all studs, it will give more bench to wall attachment points, spread the force out to other legs and across the wall. Especially if you leave the drywall. Wood back under bench will also stiffen the top along the back, help keep it from flexing between brackets.

EXCELLENT idea. The backer board would spread the load across all of the wall studs. The backer board could extend up past the bench top and create a "splash back"; so to speak.
I also like the idea of mounting a ledger board to that backer board to form a lip to secure the back of the bench top to the wall. That ledger board, glued & screwed to the backer, adds a lot of strength for very little cost and makes it easier to install the bench top.

[metricmonkeywrench]

This may get a little long but Wow, this has gotten a lot bigger than I expected. Didn't think such a simple project could draw such strong reactions. I do intend to over engineer the work surface within reality and to the intended use and location. I will never disagree that a leg design and a laminated cross bolted 2x6 top is the strongest and most durable design but then again probably is way far overkill where a layered inch or so thick combination of particleboard or MDF topped with plywood and laminate should be sufficient for most any task I will perform inside the house (minus the special case of the press). I have a detached garage to perform any heavy and dirty work and that is where the tumbler and bulk brass storage will remain. As stated above I have baseboard heating which totally killed any chance of using reclaimed kitchen cabinets and the like for the base or adding any lower shelves since it is the only heat source for the room so I cannot block it’s airflow in any way. Something else to clarify, my house was built in by the previous owner’s fathers, a mason and a framer, as a wedding present 1965. I am not dealing with simple wallboard but rather an inch thick layer of lath scratch coat and plaster and the opposite side of the wall is the brick side of the house. Having opened one of these walls elsewhere in the house due to a plumbing issue if I can get a wall stud to move by torsion or any other means there better be a wrecking ball in the equation.
Petrol & Powders insert is a concept I am going to incorporate a version of into a section of the bench for items such as the case trimmer and powder measure which wouldn't require a lot of structural support but not needed all the time. I saw high speed versions of that concept here in the Homemade section.

[NavyVet1959]

I cannot stress enough -- DON'T USE PARTICLE BOARD.

It is only good for compression, not tension. It should NEVER be used on any sort of shelf. Hell, it will eventually sag even if nothing is placed on it.

[Beau Cassidy]

Elmer Keith recommended 2 inches for a bench thickness.

With an L-shaped bench you probably won't need a bunch of screws holding it to a wall.

I just made on with a top made out of 25 2x4's I milled flat and square. You don't get flat or square 2x4's from the store! I also put 4 1/2 inch bolts thru the width of the top. The top is 30 inches deep and 90 inches long and 3 1/2 inches thick. I put it on the scale and it weighs 150 lbs. I finished the top with shellac and danish oil

For the base I took 10 4x4's and milled them flat and square. Mortise and tenon construction and generous bracing with 3 inch screws. I tried putting it on the scales and was getting 150 lbs on it, too. I screwed the top down from the bottom. One of these days I will post pictures. It is absolutely a stout bench. It is 42 inches tall which seems to be a good height. I will be making another one in the next few weeks for sizers and shotgun presses and it will probably be 38 inches high.

[ulav8r]

Particle board, OSB, and MDF are sorry as far as strength are concerned where tension forces are included. Plywood is much better but most plywood found in Home Centers and lumber yards are not flat. Laminating multiple sheets can improve the flatness. HD SandiPly is flat, but soft. Lowes has a similar product that is also soft. If available, MDO is an ideal material. MDO stands for Medium Density Overlay, a resin/paper coating on each side of a plywood panel. The plywood used is made of strong plys without voids. It's initial use was for signs, requiring weather resistance, flatness, and paint holding. It is also sometimes used for concrete forms. If MDO is not available, Baltic birch has the strength and flatness needed.

I also highly recommend carpet tipped legs to support the front edge.

[Clark]

175269

I have made a lot of benches from a lot of materials with a lot of thicknesses... but this last month it is 3/4" thick Birch. I clamp it to my desk.

[Rockzilla]

Used Simpson Strong Tie 8 of them, 4 for the bottom shelf and 4 for the top
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-18-Gauge-2X-Rigid-Tie-Connector-RTC42/100375007

4x4 posts used 2x12 edges trimmed to make them square, biscuit joined, top is 32" deep.
Frame other than 4x4 post is 2x8's 7' long (actually 6'5").

Ammo cans loaded with lead / brass are on the bottom shelf, soo no movement there..

Was told there is a mill near by, gonna probably build another one out of some ruff saw oak..


-Rock

[metricmonkeywrench]

For those following the progress I pretty much finished the wife's bench top and pegboard for storage. The final top dimension for her side works out to be about an 1 1/4 thick sandwich of 5/16 underlayment with a 3/4 core of particle board. The final dimensions are 60 x 24in on the main portion with the short leg of the L being 19 x 24in. The first two layers are glued and screwed to the supports, wall cleats and together and the final layer glued with minimal finish nails to hold the top in place while the glue set. I capped the ends to hide the layers and varnished the top. Since the heaviest object that will be used in there is a sewing machine it is definitely over-engineered. All that's left is to add the cabinet that is setting on the floor with a bookshelf above the long side

Based on what I learned here I will continue with my basic construction method (despite the repeated warnings :-D) but that bench top will definitely be at least double layer of 3/4 plywood and the wall cleats in the press area will be a full 2x4 secured to the wall studs. I do intend to add in the removable section and may add a metal reinforcement hidden in-between the bench layers where the press will mount to reinforce that area

176932176933176934

[edctexas]

Also remember that the press lever arm also sometimes has resistance in the upward direction.

Ed C

[NavyVet1959]

Take a piece of particle board and support it on just as far as the supports are on your table. Then stand on it. Now do the same thing with a piece of plywood. Compare the weight each held.

You'll see that the particle board is providing basically no strength to your table.

Particle board is NOT good in tension, it only has any sort of strength in compression. Personally, I wouldn't even use it in compression.

Oh well... We *tried* to warn you...

[Dragonheart]

A good frame is much more important than the decking thickness. I personally recommend using 3/4" plywood and then glue on a cut sheet of 1/2" plywood so you can install T-tracks into the top. The T-tracks are 1/2" thick so they are flush with the top of the plywood. I use a 6" on center spacing for the tracks, which works well for me. I have most of my tools set on 1" oak bases that will slide into a T-track.

So If I want a press, a vice, a lube sizer, a case trimmer, etc. etc. I can simply and quickly slide it in and lock it down. When I am through I unlock and slide it off and my bench top is free for the next project. I have done this for friends so now if someone needs to borrow a tool any of us can simply slide the tool into our tracks as they are all on the same spacing. I glue and screw down my tracks and have never had one loosen.

[OS OK]

You are just...'Bad to the Bone' Rich...when I grow up I wanna be just like you!

"Gooood Morning Katyeee"...charlie

[metricmonkeywrench]

Navyvet, I do much appreciate your (and others) input into what I am doing and did pay heed to the advice concerning particle board use. If you re-read my latest submission the particle board was used on my wifes light duty side that will support nothing more than a sewing machine and glue gun (I have been warned already). To combat the poor strength and potential sagging that particle board demonstrates I glued and screwed a base layer of 5/16 ply down first, then glued and screwed the particle board to the base layer and supports then added the third layer of plywood glued, clamped and nailed to the top of all that. I believe strength wise the 3 layers equate to much more strength than a simple laminated countertop.

For "my" companion bench that the press will be mounted to I will not be using any particle board at all, but rather 3/4 plywood minimum for table top construction.

Dragonheart..Good call on the T-bar may go that route myself for "accessory" mounting instead of a replaceable plate, the press will definitely be a solid mount though. Did you cut a "insert" to go into the slot when not in use to have a smooth top and keep from collecting small parts and tools when the bench is used for other purposes?

[Dragonheart]

The top of the T-tracks are flush with the top of the deck so other than the cut in the 3/4" wide metal tracks the top is completely flat. I use "Woodpecker" knobs that go through my mounting boards and the bolt heads exposed under the mounting board, engages into the tracks. For heavy items like "Ram Checker", "Ram Chucker", "Ram Buster", Rock Chucker, presses, bench vice, etc. I used 4 knobs to lock down, but found later two knobs were all that was needed as they did not move. The 4 knobs do allow for more adjustment as I can extend most of the tools out over the countertop, locking down the rear knobs and then sit comfortably in front of the tool while working.

I have a couple of tall cabinets so I store my tools and install then in a couple of minutes when needed. When not in use my work surface is clear and as my bench is not loaded with tools or full of mounting holes. The tools mounted on the tracks are just as secure as if the bolts went through the top. I do recommend multiple work areas if you have the room because having more than one tool mounted can come in handy

[Silverboolit]

Another thing to consider is the width of the top, especially where the press is mounted. I only went with 16" instead of 24". There is less leverage to move the top down at 16 rather than at 24. It would also be easier on the wall studs and your angle braces. Also, I don't accumulate as much 'stuff' on the top as I did with the 24". Now, I wish that I had gone to 12" rather than 16" in the press area. Just don't need the room behind the press

[Dragonheart]

Since none of my presses are mounted on the edge of the deck I don't have the problem.

[metricmonkeywrench]

Silverboolit, concur, thru luck when constructing the first bench it just worked out that the short leg is 18in out from the wall because of the stud locations in relation to the walls so when mirroring the opposite bench the press section will be the same.

Dragonheart, been looking at the T-tracks online, are yours aluminum and where did you get them and what length screw do you use?

[Dragonheart]

My "Incra"tracks are heavy aluminium purchased from a Rockler store front a number of years ago, but they can be found online. Tracks can be cut to length, but they typically come in 18, 24, 36 and 48 inch lengths. Exposing the factory end looks and works better. It is usually not necessary to go all the way back to the back wall, but if you are fitting in 1/2" plywood it is easier. If you already have a solid deck, a 3/4" router bit and a good straight edge locked or screwed down as a guide will assist in cutting a nice groove for the track. The typical track is 3/4" wide and 1/2" tall.

The 1/4"-20 Woodpecker knobs are large and easy to grasp and tighten. They came from a Woodcrafters Supply Store, but they to can be ordered online; I believe they are 12 for $20. Woodcrafters also carries T-tracks and a little bit of everything else. I used a 6" on center spacing for my tracks and it works for me.

The only tool that took any thought was my Rock Chucker as it was designed to hang over the deck. I just set it up where it is on top of the deck; a steel mount would do the same thing. Mounting boards are salvaged 1" oak stair tread cut offs. See photo.
177054

[Wayne Smith]

When you are designing your booksheves or cabinets above your bench make room for your powder scales. This removes them from the bounce and vibration of the bench.

[dudel]

I wouldn't use particle board. No real strength in any direction.

I built mine from 2x12s, then covered it in 3/4" plywood to give it a smooth top. I gave mine a coat of white Krylon to reflect light and brighten up the area. Keep the front overhang (table from frame) as short as you can for mounting the press. That will also reduce flex.

I had a bench like the one the OP is describing. I missed the storage below.

[kmw1954]

I've been following this from the beginning and am still trying to comprehend particle board. Are you all referring to OSB, orientated strand board, or actual particle board?

The top on my bench is a recycled commercial desk top that is 1.125" think and is pressure laminated particle board between two pieces of Formica. I was going to use this as a garage bench top and have had a 600lb pc. of machinery on top of it and it didn't flex at all and it was only supported by saw horses.

[Dragonheart]

The difference is the size and shape of the filler material. Particle board filler is like a course sawdust. Strand board is larger wood strips, both material are bonded together with adhesive at great pressure. These products work well under a laminate surface, but the cannot be directly exposed to moisture. Your laminated deck should not be a problem as it will handle compression if properly supported, as you have already found out. Since it is sandwiched between laminate I don't think you will have any problems with standard reloading procedures.

[tmc-okc]

Kmw, I know what you are talking about on that OLD commercial desk top. I have been using on of these in my shop for about 20 years. That is some tuff stuff. There is NO flex to that stuff. It should work very well. The table top I have is 60" x 30" x 1.25" thick so I believe we are talking apples to apples. There isn't one bit of flex to it. I turned the piece upside down and I have been using it as a cutting table and have not penetrated the Formica one bit. Again NO flex. That is one tuff piece of sandwich of materials.

Ron H

[kmw1954]

The difference is the size and shape of the filler material. Particle board filler is like a course sawdust. Strand board is larger wood strips, both material are bonded together with adhesive at great pressure. These products work well under a laminate surface, but the cannot be directly exposed to moisture. Your laminated deck should not be a problem as it will handle compression if properly supported, as you have already found out. Since it is sandwiched between laminate I don't think you will have any problems with standard reloading procedures.

Having been working with old boats for the past 20 years I am quite familiar with MDO/MDA, OSB, Particle board, Marine grade ply, interior and exterior grade ply, types of veneers, number of veneers, orientation of veneers and lamination. Have also used Aluminum plate, SS plate and composite materials.

Just trying to be clear on what material is being discussed.