heavy pull on S&W model 36

[mto7464]

bought one of these so the wife could practice more with cast loads. Problem is she can hardly get the hammer back. (It is fairly stiff even for me) Can a lighter spring be put in and still function properly?

[Scrounger]

Most likely. If I remember right, there is a screw which can be turned to adjust the trigger pull weight, think it's near the bottom of the grip. Loosening it will make the trigger pull lighter, but be aware that it also affects the speed/power of the hammer fall and at some point it will be too light to fire the cartridge. Just try making it lighter but not so much as to effect reliability.

[45 2.1]

Get yourself a Wolfe spring kit and install it.

[slughammer]

FWIW I thought the 36 was a J frame and would have a coil main spring like other J frames?

You should be able to get a spring kit and replace 2 springs to make the pull better. That would be the main spring for the hammer AND the rebound spring for the trigger. You are compressing both of these springs when cocking the gun and should replace both.

I do question whether a previous owner put extra power springs in there for some reason? Midway should have the factory S&W replacement springs available if you wanted to try that first. If you need help with part numbers, just say the word.

[fecmech]

The 36 has coil springs and has a fairly hard da pull with stock springs. If you go with lighter springs be sure befor you use the gun for carry or self defence you run a couple hundred rounds thru in the double action mode. If you are going to get light strikes or misfires that is where it will happen as the hammer fall is slightly shorter in DA.

[Dave Berryhill]

The 36 has coil springs and has a fairly hard da pull with stock springs. If you go with lighter springs be sure befor you use the gun for carry or self defence you run a couple hundred rounds thru in the double action mode. If you are going to get light strikes or misfires that is where it will happen as the hammer fall is slightly shorter in DA.

And if the trigger doesn't reset 100% of the time during your testing then your rebound spring is too light and you should swap in a heavier rebound spring.

[NoDakJak]

And avoid CCI primers when you go to lighter springs. My 36 has about 50% misfires with the CCI reloads but is 100% reliable with WSP. Neil

[EMC45]

Had the same affect when I went to CCI primers in my lightened Mod10.

[mto7464]

Yes I asked a guy about primers and he said federal primers then WRA then CCI in order of softer to harder cups.

[10-x]

Been working on S&W actions for about 30 years. K's and N's are the easiest to work on as far as a smooth double and crisp single break. J's are a little different as all springs are coil type.
IMHO start by cutting off 2 coils of both rebound and hammer spring. Depending on your "smithing ability" the inside of the frame, side plate and rebound housing need to be stoned smooth. There again if you are not "mechanicaly inclined" you might want to just buy one of the spring kits as mentioned before or find a GOOD local gunsmith that has proved ability to do the job.
None of these trigger jobs are quick as you have to test fire the piece after each "operation". I suggest firing at least 50 rounds to check to function with your loads and a few factorys rounds for good measure
The bottom line is no manufacture builds them like they used to. The insides of the frames look like 10 miles of bad road. Long gone are the well fit smooth actions. Old S&W's and especially Colts were a dream to shoot double or single action.
Oh for the Good Ole Days:drinks:

[knothead]

You can also (after much polishing) clip an extra coil or two (one at a time) off the rebound spring, insert a ball bearing of the correct size in the rebound slide and get a smoother trigger. B uy the bearing at the local bearing house, and several 12 lb rebound springs and try try try till you get it right.
Look at the window the hand runs through, its often very rough and "felt" in the trigger pull.

[9.3X62AL]

I don't favor spring clipping. Wolfe spring kits are a better option, and in the J-frames try the mainspring change-out only. The weaker rebound slide spring in the Wolfe kit often doesn't return the trigger very energetically, unless the rebound slide gallery is polished up and the rebound slide spring recess inside the slide is also polished out. Remember also that the advancing hand is moving the cylinder through 72 degrees of rotation, not 60 as in a six-shot cylinder. The Chief Special operates with some distinct mechanical disadvantages, and GREATLY benefits from some gunsmith refinement to the internal engagement surfaces.

[Ricochet]

Wolf small pistol primers seem to be very soft.

[mto7464]

I see Wilson has a kit in Brownells, I think I will give that a try.
This is an older 36 from the late 60's early 70's, the triiger pull is really nice just a little heavy for the wife.

[9.3X62AL]

A lot of S&W revos of that vintage are quite well-finished internally, the spring change-out may do the trick for you. Just make certain that trigger return is positive for your wife.