Sweet Stevens favorite

[Box13]

I just got myself a sweet Stevens favorite.Missing the rear sight but it has a small caliber tang sight and all the working parts are smooth.The bore was kind of dark so I decided to clean it out.Man I must of got 3 or 4 ounces of rust and gunk out of there.Now it's all shiny and smooth.Cleaned up and oiled, I can't wait to shoot her so I'm off to my range out back.First shots are from the 100 yrd mark.Hmmm nothing on the target.Well it is 100 + yrs old so I move up to the 50 yrd mark.Still nothing on the target,I'm guessing the sights are way out of wack having been kicked around so long, so I move up to the pistol range area...35 yrds...25 yrds...15 yrds...yes I'm finally on target . I'm using a full size body target and all 10 shots are on the paper...somewhere.To my surprise I find it has a trick barrel that turns all the bullets on thier sides Probably to create a larger wound channel.Man what sweet shooting rifle...she's a real keeper...Robin

[marlinman93]

Sounds like time for a reline!
I bought a Favorite in May, but only because it came in a deal for a Ballard rifle. Selling it later this month at our annual collectors gun show.

[Blackwater]

I'm with Marlinman. If you got a lot of rust out of the bore, and the bullets are keyholing, the barrel is just plain shot. And sideways bullets IF they hit the target which is always extremely doubtful, don't penetrate as far, so that's a fly in the idea they'd be more effective. Only hits are effective, and with that kind of accuracy, hits are unlikely. But thankfully, a reline job isn't terribly expensive as barrel work goes, but it's not really cheap either. But it'll sure put that neat old gun back into useful service, and it's a shame so many great old guns have been trashed when they could have been fixed, or even given away to someone with the will and money do fix them.

A reline job, and that thing may prove to be a tack driver if you find the ammo it likes! And nothing substitutes for accuracy with a rifle. Absolutely nothing.

[bedbugbilly]

I still have my Dad's old 1915 Favorite . . . or I should probably say my Grandpa's as I'm sure he was the one who originally bought it to keep around their lumberyard to shoot pests. It went through a fire in 1956 that charred the heel of the buttstock but I carved a new one for it when I was a kid. I used to shoot it quite a bit until the firing pin took a dive. I actually made a new one out of a nail, turned it in the drill press and fitted it and hardened the end. The bore on it is not the greatest . . . I did get a couple of tree rats with it when I was a kid but it probably needs a reline job as well. It's on my "to do" list but we all know how that goes.

Sounds like you are having fun with yours. They certainly were a neat little rifle and "Favorite" is an appropriate word for them! Enjoy and have fun!

[Chev. William]

Just curious:
What is the Caliber marking on your "Favorite"?
I have a couple in .25 Stevens (Long) RF, and in .32 Long RF.
One I converted to CF and have Fired .25ACP and 6.35x28.6mmSR out of it's original Stevens barrel. The .25ACP is a Quiet round out of its 21-1/2" barrel.
The 6.35x28.6mmSR is a "Mildcat reformed and trimmed from 5.7x28mm FNB Brass and I have used both 50 grain FMJ and 63 grain Lead bullets with it.
It hits a 12" Bull at 100 yards with either cartridge, if I do my Part.
"Kentucky Windage" on Fixed Iron sights is Limiting on Accuracy and I am 73 years old.
Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Box13]

The original post was ment to be mostly humorous but is absolutely true.The bore was very dark when I first found it and after cleaning it was smooth and lumpy with no sign of rifling.I was moving toward a relining but have since found an original barrel with very good rifling so I'll try that first.I had been thinking about a favorite for awhile when this came along,and it is a 22lr...

[marlinman93]

Considering the way a Favorite barrel is attached, the new barrel you found makes much more sense! Even if a guy bought a .22 barrel, and had it turned down, and fitted to the Favorite, it would be less expensive than a reline.
I have a friend who bought a nice used barrel at a gun show cheap, and then had it fitted to his Favorite. It cost him $100 to have it fitted, and I think he bought the barrel for $25-$30. Can't buy a liner, and have it put in for anything close to that!

[BCRider]

It seems to be a rare find to come across a Favorite or other boy's rifle of that era with a decent barrel. I've got a thing for the single shot boy's style rifles and most of them need either a new barrel or to have the old one re-lined in order to keep the original roll markings.

But when you get one that is a sweet shooter there's not many things more fun than stuffing a bunch of reloads between the fingers of your support fist and running off a bunch of shots at one of those pesky steel flip up and resetting rimfire targets at 25 yards. Just far enough that ya need to really pay attention when shooting from standing.

[marlinman93]

It seems to be a rare find to come across a Favorite or other boy's rifle of that era with a decent barrel. I've got a thing for the single shot boy's style rifles and most of them need either a new barrel or to have the old one re-lined in order to keep the original roll markings.
.

Couldn't agree more! They were inexpensive boy's guns when new, so they got used and rarely well cared for! That's why when I was offered the one I have in a two gun deal, I purchased it, even though I'm not a Stevens buyer. It has a gorgeous bore, and almost perfect wood. About 85% bluing, and the only weak point was the lack of case colors.

[Chev. William]

"inexpensive" is a relative term. I believe the Favorite started out at about $6.00 when a Mans' Wages for a 12 hour day were about $1.00 so it might have been a long time in buying for a boy, who could only garner about a dime a day for working, if he got paid at all.

I do know that they were used for "Pot Meat" hunting a lot during the 'depression' and shells were 'Dear' to come by at that time; when unemployment was up around 25% of the Working Age Population.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[marlinman93]

"inexpensive" is a relative term. I believe the Favorite started out at about $6.00 when a Mans' Wages for a 12 hour day were about $1.00 so it might have been a long time in buying for a boy, who could only garner about a dime a day for working, if he got paid at all.

I do know that they were used for "Pot Meat" hunting a lot during the 'depression' and shells were 'Dear' to come by at that time; when unemployment was up around 25% of the Working Age Population.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

I'd compare the price then to what most popular guns sold for, rather than wages. Wages were the same whether you bought a $5-$6 gun, or a $20 gun, and most guns fell closer to the $20 price. A fair number of high end guns at the time went in the $60-$80 range, so at $1 a day, a man could save every penny he made in 5-7 years to buy an expensive gun. And at $20, even an average gun cost more than most men could pay without saving a long time!
I doubt most boys bought their own gun back then, anymore than they would today. A parent would have to have the funds to make the purchase, and many kids never got a gun of any kind due to that.

[Box13]

Finally got the barrel today.not as good a bore as I had thought but still a 7-8 out of 10.It should last a long time with modern 22 ammo.The takedown hole was a little mushroomed so a little hand filing on that got the barrel to fit the action real snug.Also the ejector slot was pretty tight so a little more filing and it fits real nice.The barrel stub that's fits into the action is several thousandths too long and the action won't close easily. Sso I'm guessing I'll have to face the barrel end which also means I'll have to refit the ejector and then ream the chamber.Both of which I think would be a good thing.At least I should end up with a tight action and a good bore.I might look into hardened pins and screws before I face the barrel.Anybody who's done this before feel free to step in with advice...Robin

[BCRider]

Something to keep in mind is that the ammo of the day didn't have the snap to it that our commonly found and used HV ammo has. I've seen a lot of recommendations for the oldies to use only SV or slower ammo. You may want to lean that way to avoid the tilt down block becoming cracked or even snapping off at the corner of the "L" shape.

[Chev. William]

RE: ". . .Barrel a few thousanths too long . . ".
BEFORE you face off /the Barrel end, you might consider shimming the Barrel shoulder to Receiver front Face area to bring the barrel Breech face and Breech Block Breech face to full Battery positions, wiht the Lever fully Up against the bottom of the lower tang. This will allow you at least Two things:
1. Knowing exactly how much you may need to face off.
2. How Well the Two faces mate.
and additionally it would let you fire one or more test rounds to see if everything is stable and properly functioning as is.

Such things as the Firing Pin retracting properly would also become apparent.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Box13]

That's a good idea . I'd be able to see and feel how the block and barrel work together and be able to creep up on the final fit,both in squareness and tightness.I think I'll still do new pins and pivot screws first incase there's some difference in the new setup.Then do the final fitting.

[Chev. William]

Note also that the two Main Pivot Screws/Pins are loaded in Bending with a portion on either side of the Breech Block and The Lever. I suggest you use some new High Strength Alloy Steel for the New pivot Screws/Pins you intend to make. 1144 "Stressproof" would be a good Starting point or perhaps 4130 or 4140 heat treated.

another Possibility, if you have Carbide tooling, is to cut the new ones out of a Hardened "Allen head" screw of around 190,000psi Yield Strength.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Hooker53]

Glad to see other folks like 1144. Great metel. Hates to be arc welded but good for gun parts and stress area parts. Another one if you can get your hands on a small amount is AR-235. IV used this for single shot rifle action pins. Totally has to be grind worked and cooled but great for wear. Enjoy your Favorite. They are fun little guns.

Roy
Hooker53

[Box13]

So here's an update for those interested.I went ahead and fit the barrel without changing out the pins in the link.After taking it apart I found the pins and link in pretty good shape without much if any play.The screws however are another story.Not enough slop to make it dangerous but way more then I'd like so I've ordered a couple from wisners.As for the new used barrel I honed the burrs off the stub so as to get a good smooth fit into the action.Then I closed the action on a slip of paper looking for high spots to file away.I worked first on the barrel until it was flat and true to the block which needed some flattening also.I now have a fit that I cannot see light through when closed and is quite snug when closed with or without a round chambered.I took it down to the range yesterday day and found it shoots quite well now.I was able to keep 7 out of 10 shots in a 2" circle at about 75 yards with a peep sight.This rifle has the spring and pin in the lever which I like but the link it works on is just stamped and has very very rough and uneven sides.Something I'll have to address if only to make myself happy.Otherwise it's quite a nice little 22.One problem is the new barrel is an octagon and the old barrel was 1/2 round so I have no fore arm.Which leads me to the next project.I have a nice piece of walnut that is just asking to be put on a little old single shot...I'll try to put up some pics if it looks like it will come together the way I'd like...Robin

[slumlord44]

My recommendation is standard velocity only ammo. No high velocity and definitely nothing like a Stinger.

[A pause for the COZ]

I like my 32L rim fire version allot. I was considering converting it to 22lr or re chamber it to 32S&WL. But since I found the Dixie gun works reloadable cases.
I found it to be a very good squirrel getter as is.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_9932_zpscdrnzgz2.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_9933_zps2wzbnggg.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_9936_zpslh1f6ejc.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_9935_zpswm2fgglc.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_9937_zpsptaiscmo.jpg

[Bent Ramrod]

That is nice! Good squirrel-head accuracy in a rifle made for such.

How is the longevity on those reloadable rim fire .32 cases? I have a Remington .38 Rim Fire that I had a few Dixie reloadable cases for, but the .22 cartridge seat seemed to break away fairly quickly. I was using empty .22 shells for priming and black powder for the propellant and would get an occasional "bee sting" on my face. Glad I was wearing safety glasses with side shields.

[Hooker53]

That brass don't last as long as a regular case. It's raw, undrawn brass but, it will let you shoot a few and enjoy the gun. I used Flobert nail gun blanks in 6mm. I went through the same thing with a Rem #2 roller in .38 Rimfire and I did change it over to centerfire and shortened 38 Spl brass down to fit. I also had Montanna Mould to make me the heeled Boolit mould. Have had a ball with it. One thing to think about. The Dixie Gun Works brass will let you shoot it so you can make a decision to whether or not it's worth the trouble changing it over to centerfire.
Roy.

[Bent Ramrod]

That's pretty much where I am, Hooker53. The bore is pretty good on the gun and I have the .38 tong tool with mould. Just have to decide whether to pull the switch and convert the breechblock.

[A pause for the COZ]

Do you guys know any one who does breech block conversions? Rechambering to 32 long would not be much of an issue.
As for the Dixie gun works cases. Not sure haven't worn one out yet. But I cant see them lasting a long time.
I did purchase 3 feet of brass rod in the proper diameter and I have a mini lathe. So if I get motivated enough I could make some replacements.

[Bent Ramrod]

I do my own, when I can work up the effort. I imagine John Taylor could do yours for you. If you have a four-jaw for your mini lathe, a fair amount of patience and some nerve, you could do the conversion yourself. Probably not a "beginning gunsmith" project, though.

The easy center fire conversions (relatively) are the Winchester single shots, since the firing pin hole is fixed and the rim fire pin is at the bottom of the pin body, while the center fire pin is concentric. Stevens Favorites and Remington small Rolling Blocks seem to have the rim or center fire pin body angled differently in the breechblock, with the business end of the pin always concentric with the body. This complicates the change to center fire, as the firing pin hole has to be relocated, or a weird offset firing pin made to fit. For the rank amateur, at least, neither job is a walk in the park.

[Chev. William]

As I Understand it, Marlin used a switchable Firing Pin to change their Lever gun from RF to CF. So .32 Long RF or .32 Long Colt could be used.

I do no town a Marlin so this is from my Reading.

I d Know the Winchester 1890 .22 RF rifles use a concentric Tip on their RF firing pin and it is positioned in the Bolt to hit the top of the chambered Cartridge; either .22 S-L-LR or .22WRF/.22WMR.
And, yes, I have one that is set up to use "WRF" or "WMR" cartridges interchangeably.

Best Regards,
Chev. William