(Another) DIY lubri-sizer heater

[oih]

Material list:
- 1 Thermal Switch N/C 50C 35C-Reset GSMPN: 2455R-01000073 HONEYWELL S&C.
- 2 DALE RH-25 5R 1% 25W Resistors.
- Soldering wire.
- Generic 12V/5A powersupply.
- Scrap aluminum plate.
- Scrap plywood.
- Wood glue (Think it's vise not to use epoxy, not sure how healthy those fumes would be...).
- 6 M3 10mm machine scews with nuts and washers.
- 4 small wood screws.
- Thermal Compound (Can be bought on eBay, small packages for sealing gaps between processor fan and processor. Probably not necessary).

Tools:
- Metal saw of some kind (I used an electric jigsaw, a hacksaw will do)
- Woodsaw
- 3mm drillbit (mount electric components)
- 8mm drillbit (Lyman 450 mounting holes)
- Countersink drillbit
- Soldering iron
- Screw drivers
- Wrench for the nuts

I'm using Lyman Orange Magic in a Lyman 450. I used a heat gun to soften the lube. Kinda worked, but a bit cumbersome. I work with computers and software. One of our obsolete computer types was equipped with a 12V heating system. It consisted of 2 aluminum cased resistors which maxed at 25W each 174567, and a thermostat that cut the current at 20°C 174568. Ideally giving 50W of heat. (Computers had hdds that would't work in arctic temperatures.). It was so simple, I just knew it would work as a heater for the lubri-sizer. I just had to get a thermostate or thermal switch that allowed temperatures in the 40°C range. I bought this off eBay: 174569 figuring that oscillating between 35°C and 50°C would provide sufficient heat to keep the Orange Magic soft.

[oih]

Used my electric jigsaw to cut a piece of 3mm aluminum plate that would fit under my Lyman 450 and have room for the electric components underneath. I wanted as little air exposed aluminum as possible to heat the 450 rather than the surrounding atmosphere:174570 I mounted the components with countersunk stainless screws, washers and nuts. Also applied some thermal compound on the contact surfaces to assure good heat conduct. I bought a 12V/5A powersupply on eBay, and the heater was tested. It got nice and warm, and the thermal switch cut the current with an audible "click".

[oih]

I used some 12mm plywood as insulation and spacer material. I know wood and heat sounds like a fire hazard, but this is low amp/low temperature, so I'll chance it for now:174572 174573

Made it even more rigid by gluing some 10mm ply underneath:174574 Hoping this will trap the heat. Contemplated filling the void with silicone sealant, but as it emits acid when curing or heated, I decided not to. Probably little effect as well. Void is so small and only vents through the power cable inlet and through the wood.

[44Vaquero]

Great idea! It's nice to see an out-of-the-box solution. I love clever home builds!

Waiting for a performance report.

[wcp4570]

oih
I'm eager to hear how your heating solution works. I am waiting on a second sizer that will be used for Carnauba Red that will need some heat. I already have a computer power supply converted to provide the needed 12vdc for a heater like you have built. Let us know how it works. Thanks

wcp4570

[Walter Laich]

great use of equipment for non-intended purposes.

Just spit-balling but wonder if you would hose clamp right to barrel of lube-sizer?

[JohnH]

I use a hair dryer

[oih]

Just spit-balling but wonder if you would hose clamp right to barrel of lube-sizer?

Maybe. Problem is conducting the heat. In order to conduct the heat from the resistores efficiently, metal to metal, you need a flat surface (also for the thermal switch.). Could of course mill flats on the lube reservoir for this purpose. I'm guessing from the heat sink ribs on my resistors that they are indeed made to heat air. Thus clamping them bare to the reservoir could result in venting maybe 50% of the heat into the surrounding air rather than into the metal of the lubri-sizer. Covering them in clay or other insulation might solve that, but your lubri-sizer will start looking like something out of a low budget 50ies science fiction movie. Not to mention the depreciation of the potential resale value. The press itself represents an investment to me, even if bought 2nd hand. I like being able to reverse my hacks. If I were to modify the lubrisizer, I'd try and find enough material thickness to drill a hole without compromising the pressure chamber, and mount some sort of cylindrical element inside like they do on the 4500.

I think my solution might benefit from milling the ribs off the resistors. Not sure how much of a difference it would do. Not much air to vent heat into inside the ply, and heated air travels upwards.

Right now I'm waiting for a chance to finish drilling monting holes throught the plywood (Only throught the aluminum plate as of now.). Using my drill press to make sure the holes are straight. 8mm holes for 6mm bolts to give it som tolerance.

Also glued a strip of ply on top, just were the aluminum plate ends. You can see from the photos that part of the void for the components is exposed. Cut the aluminum just a bit short there, but the plystrip makes the potential heat leak a lot less.

Also cut of as much of the ply as I dared. Bit more compact now.

Will take more photos when I finish and size som bullets.

[oih]

Mounted the contraption temporarily(*) to my workbench. It was a partial success. It relies on good contact between the base of the press and the hot plate, and the cast iron is rather rough, thus heat transmission wasn't perfect. It also took too long get the press warm enough to size. I sized a hundred .45-70 bullets and they looked nice with even groove filling. These bullets were already tumble lubed, as I had nothing else available.

175546

I plan to do the following to improve the performance:
- Cut a 2nd piece of plywood that fits snug to the press, and covers the exposed aluminum. I'll have to glue a couple of strips with the same thickness as the aluminum to fit each side of the aluminum plate for maximum insulation effect. Hoping this will cause less heat loss to the atmosphere.
- Try a 24V power with approximately the same watt rating, as my initial tests show that 12V struggles to reach the desired effect (I know U=RI, but sometimes you can only push so many amps through a circuit, and to increase the watts you need to increase the voltage.). The brand name plates are in the 50W area, so 48 Watts should be enough if the heat can be transferred efficiently to the press.

(*) "Temporarily":
- Same as "Permanently", but uglier and less userfriendly.

[6bg6ga]

I used a cartridge heater with a cost of about $30 and drilled a 1/4" hole in the aluminum plate that serves as my base. I control the temp with a simple PID controller. Its easy and simple and its probably in the star stickeys.

[oih]

I've got my calculations wrong. I was blindly looking at the 25Watts on the resistors when I should have looked at the resistance. Resistance is 10Ohms per resistors, and as they are connected in a series, they equal a total of 20Ohms. It boils down to Ohm's law, and Mr Ohm was right all along. U=RI, 12V=20xI, i.e. I=12/20=0.6A. Effect=UI=12x0.6=7,2Watts. No wonder it took forever. Lesson is, I need more U to increase I to gain W.

Conclusion:
I should omit the power supply all together, and run AC grid electricity directly. It'll work, but I'm not about to do that without grounding it properly and adding a fuse. Cost will be reduced, but it'll require careful assembly. I'll add a 4 amp fuse, and ground the heat plate. I'm not sure I dare post that project as socket electricity varies from country to country, and I don't want any fellow casters to make themselves an electricution device. However, desktop computer cables have 3 leads, I will connect the 2 power leads to the circuit, and the ground to the metal plate, and add the 4 amp fuse to one of the leads.

As for now, I'll just go with 7.2W, and maybe a bit of insulation.

[oih]

My original solution would in fact benefit from removing one of the heaters/resistors.

With resistance only being 10Ω:
U=RI, 12V=10xI, I=1.2A, E=12Vx1.2A=14.4W. Doubling the effect.

I decided to go the easy way, and ordered another psu on eBay. A 36V/2A. 2A/36 feels slightly safer than the 16A/220V i get from the wall socket. Still, I would like to ground the plate. At least this means I can use the heater more or less as it is, while I plan the revised design. The economy of the project isn't as sound as it started out to be as I had to buy a thermal switch and now the 2nd psu. Still, I'm well below the current asking price for even a Midway brand heating plate. This power will not be exhausted when/if the plate is operating at full 50W as it has the potential of delivering 72W.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I used a cartridge heater with a cost of about $30 and drilled a 1/4" hole in the aluminum plate that serves as my base. I control the temp with a simple PID controller. Its easy and simple and its probably in the star stickeys.

I do about the same but use a light dimmer switch to control the heat 176394176395

[6bg6ga]

I can keep mine within a degree and a half ......can you?

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I can keep mine within a degree and a half ......can you?

no but please dont tell my lube cuz it works :kidding:

[AbitNutz]

Normally I would jump right in here and muddy the waters. I am a huge fan on lube heaters. I can't imagine lubing bullets without one any more. Any way you can make one it's worth it...provided that's the way you lube bullets. I however, may have found another way...Hi-Tek coating. I am in the process of setting things up in my man cave to do this new process...new to me. Maybe I can relegate my hoard of lubrisizers to the back row.

Hmm...and I said I wouldn't muddy the water.

[Leadmelter]

I have a CH heater and I pray it never breaks. Is has served me for 30+ years. don't know why the stopped making them.
Leadmelter
MI