Worksharp sharpener

[AK Caster]

Didn't want to muddle up the other knife sharpening thread so here goes:

For you worksharp owners, do you like the standard or Ken Onion version? The Ken version is almost twice the price. Is it worth the extra $$$ ?

[Sweetpea]

I have the original, and I love it.

But, the Ken Onion version had not been released yet, when I bought mine.

It looks a bit nicer to use, but I won't buy one unless the original dies.

[Moonie]

I'm in the same boat as Sweetpea, if I replace the one I have it will be a Ken Onion, the belts are wider and it incorporates some things learned from the standard model.

[Geezer in NH]

Have an original don't need more

[corbinace]

:popcorn:

[rl69]

I love mine but I would also upgrade

[edler7]

I have the KO model, bought the original version for one of my sons. The KO gives more bevel angle choice, seems to be finished a little better and higher quality parts. I think the price difference was $50.

Worth it, IMHO.

[Storydude]

a 70 dollar 5X7 belt sander from HF does so much more than the knifesharp......and can still sharpen knives!

[bayjoe]

You sharpen knives on a belt sander?

[jcren]

I have the KO and it works great. Looked at both, and the wider belts and larger/higher amp motor sold me.

[corbinace]

I have the KO and it works great. Looked at both, and the wider belts and larger/higher amp motor sold me.

Congratulations on your 1000th post

[bangerjim]

I have the originals and see not need to spend more. A belt sander?!?!?!?!? OMG! The key to good sharpening of any blade or cutting edge is repeated and solid holding in a specific postion at a specific angle. Not hand-held. I have 4 belt sanders (big and small) and would never use them to grind anything but a rough log splitting maul/sledge. The Worksharp grinds, sharpens, hones and polishes....as long as you buy or make the necessary attachments. I have made many for my units.

For hollow-ground planer/plane/chissels - I use it to give a good edge and then switch to my 12x3" slow-speed water stone to give that professional grind finish......by holding the blade in a repeatable clamping attachment.

Some claim to sharpen twist drills (to their needs) on a bench grinder. I use a Darex. Same with sharpening straight cutting edges. The right sharpening tools for the best job on your cutting tools.

banger

[Wasalmonslayer]

I have the original and love it.
Been using it since I got a proto type at a writers conference.

I have yet to have an issue.
I have gone thru 2 belt sets.

Wasalmonslayer

[DerekP Houston]

a 70 dollar 5X7 belt sander from HF does so much more than the knifesharp......and can still sharpen knives!

If you don't watch it that will ruin the temper on a good knife. Works fine for the cheapy ones though, there was a truck that drove around to restaurants and offered that service.

[44man]

I do not see where the KO is worth more money. ANGLE is where it is. Not power or wider belts. I sharpen knives by hand that will cut your eyesight or split a hair. The regular machine has the same angles. I used one and it plain works. Hard to find any machine that equals what I do with stones.

[bangerjim]

I do not see where the KO is worth more money. ANGLE is where it is. Not power or wider belts. I sharpen knives by hand that will cut your eyesight or split a hair. The regular machine has the same angles. I used one and it plain works. Hard to find any machine that equals what I do with stones.

Only thing a machine can do that a hand stone cannot is a precision concave bevel grind. That is what I use that big 12x3" wet wheel for. Amazing edges!

banger

[44man]

It gets to be like camo. Buy an article with certain camo and price doubles. Who needs the expensive camo on an arrow? Who needs camo boots? SOCKS???? Maybe flash your butt at deer with camo tattoos. You need a camo "T" shirt under a jacket and coat.
Who in the world is ken Onion anyway? Both machines are made by the same company but one costs more. I never heard of the guy until I seen the machines. I refuse to pay for a name. Then belts cost more.

[bangerjim]

Mabe the guy that produces the "ONION" news?!?!?!?

HA....ha!

Never hear of him either until someone on here mentioned the name.

[bangerjim]

FYI:

This is a similar slow speed water grinder like I use, except mine is from an earlier day and has an approx. 3" wide wheel on it. Still looks very close and will give an excellent hollow grind with absolute ZERO burning!

http://www.sears.com/grizzly-slow-speed-grinder/p-SPM7423884823?sid=IDx20110310x00001i&gclid=CLD5lJD2xs4CFQ5rfgodMG0GaQ&gclsrc=aw.ds


The key to perfect repeatable factory grinds is the work-holding apparatus you use.

banger

[Mk42gunner]

Ken Onion designs knives. I think Gerber or Kershaw, maybe both, have mass manufactured some of his designs.

As for the Work Sharp, either version, it is a small portable belt sander/ grinder that uses 12" belts 1/2" or 3/4" wide depending on the version you buy. I really think you can do the same thing with any of the larger bench top units; as long as you make a guide for a consistent angle.

The one thing I really don't like about the work sharp units is that one side of the blade gets ground with the grit moving into it, while the other side has the grit moving away from the edge.

Robert

[jiandawg]

I was in the market for one of the WorkSharp sharpeners. I borrowed a KO and an original from a couple of friends to test them out for a bit. I think both are decent, but I ended up with the KO edition mainly because of the variable belt speed. Just seemed like it gave me better control over what I was sharpening.

[alamogunr]

I just bought the WorkSharp KO as a result of reading this thread. One question for users: It seems according to the directions that you should sharpen the blade on the right(belt moving down-CW) first and then on the left(belt moving up-CCW) to remove the burr. In other words, always finish up on the left(CCW). Is this correct?

I've never been satisfied with my results on a stone so thought this might be a solution.

[SSGOldfart]

Hey guys does the Work Sharp have a locking trigger? Kind of a necessary with one hand.

[44man]

OK, I want one and have enough points to get free. So please tell me if the KO is worth the price.
I used the WS and was happy so why should I spend more.

[alamogunr]

I got mine the same way(points). I had never used one but figured I wouldn't regret getting the top of the line when it didn't cost me anything. I also got a brass catcher for practicing with the semi-auto. I'm still learning.

[jcren]

Hey guys does the Work Sharp have a locking trigger? Kind of a necessary with one hand.

Yes, my Ken Onion does (i didn't see it at first, black and nearly flush) and someone said the basic did as well.

[edler7]

I just bought the WorkSharp KO as a result of reading this thread. One question for users: It seems according to the directions that you should sharpen the blade on the right(belt moving down-CW) first and then on the left(belt moving up-CCW) to remove the burr. In other words, always finish up on the left(CCW). Is this correct?

I've never been satisfied with my results on a stone so thought this might be a solution.

You should form a burr the length of the blade on each side. That indicates the bevel angle is set along the entire length.

I form a burr with the right guide, then switch to the left. The burr the right guide formed is removed, but there will be one on the other side of the blade from working it on the left guide. A pass or 2 back on the right guide will remove it. As you decrease belt grits (going from coarse to fine) you should still raise a burr, but it will become finer and harder to feel. I use a 10x magnifying loupe and see it rather than feel it, and also to tell when it is removed. You will also notice your edge becoming polished as you move through the grits.

After you set the bevel initially and go through the different belt grits, a resharpen should only take a couple minutes using the finest 1 or 2 belts you used initially. No need to go through all the grits, the coarsest 2 are used only to establish the initial bevel.

I sharpen my pocket knife at a 20 degree bevel and do not use the finest grit belt. I like my blade to have just a tiny bit of "tooth" to it. Kitchen knives get 17 degrees and all belts. I use a single page from the phone book to test sharpness. When the blade will glide through one with no drag, it's well past shaving sharp.

[DerekP Houston]

I am mighty tempted now seeing all these testimonies of success. I see they have a field version for ~25ish that would do well to sharpen all my pocket knives easily enough.

[Moonie]

Hey guys does the Work Sharp have a locking trigger? Kind of a necessary with one hand.

My original does yes.

[44man]

I like razor sharp but most butchers don't. They use a steel to SET the edge so it is like a microscopic saw.
To get to razor, you need the burrs, even a straight razor has a burr that is lapped on leather. I have put the red abrasive, can't remember the name, on leather strops--OH yeah, jewelers rouge. Stuff that is on crocus cloth. I have the powder.
When young I had hair on my legs and when sharpening broad heads and knives, I had big bare spots.
I have the Chefs Choice with diamond wheels and so does my friend. The Work Sharp he brought was much better and faster. He always brings his knives here, must have had 50 last time.
I still don't know if the KO is worth the extra money. Are we paying for a name?

[C.F.Plinker]

The WorkSharp gives you a convex grind because of the belt flex. If you have a 1x30 belt sander you can get an assortment of belts through 1000 grit and a leather belt as well (the latter becomes a power strop) for the same or less than the basic WorkSharp. The belt sander has the advantage that it won't move around the bench which allows you to use both hands to guide the blade. You can get a flat grind going against the platen, a convex grind above the platen, and if you are really steady a concave grind on the upper pulley. The downside is that there are no blade guides so everything has to be sharpened freehand.

[DerekP Houston]

Thanks for the advice yall. I would love to get mine all back to razor sharp by hand, but quite frankly I just don't have the steady hands I thought I did and it eats into family time with all my existing hobbies. I'm gonna save my pennies and ask for one for christmas this year. I could sharpen friends/family knives at $5 a pop and earn my money back fairly quick around our neighborhood. I will keep using my stones on the already sharp ones to maintain the edge.

[edler7]

I still don't know if the KO is worth the extra money. Are we paying for a name?


Ken Onion version: variable speed, wider / better belts, variable speed, better angle guide, variable speed, add-on blade grinding attachment capability, better motor.

Oh yeah, and variable speed.

[alamogunr]

With my limited use so far, the trigger stop has proved to be advantageous. Keeps me from going too fast too soon.

[44man]

OK, I will consider the KO. Much appreciated fellas.

[DerekP Houston]

So the field sharpener arrived yesterday and i tested it out on my old swiss army knife. It is *much* smaller than I would've thought based on the pictures but it works like a charm. I wouldn't say I got them razor sharp, but a definate edge back on my little pocket knives. With the small package I can actually keep it in my car with my other knife so Ill always have a reliable blade for boxes etc at work.

Considering the larger model for home use now, it will be on my christmas list for sure.

[jonp]

I like razor sharp but most butchers don't. They use a steel to SET the edge so it is like a microscopic saw.
To get to razor, you need the burrs, even a straight razor has a burr that is lapped on leather. I have put the red abrasive, can't remember the name, on leather strops--OH yeah, jewelers rouge. Stuff that is on crocus cloth. I have the powder.
When young I had hair on my legs and when sharpening broad heads and knives, I had big bare spots.
I have the Chefs Choice with diamond wheels and so does my friend. The Work Sharp he brought was much better and faster. He always brings his knives here, must have had 50 last time.
I still don't know if the KO is worth the extra money. Are we paying for a name?

Jewlers rouge on a piece of glass to finish the edge on wood chisels etc.

[hanleyfan]

I guess everyone is different, I had one of these things for 2 weeks and I follow instructions and watched some videos on it and I still can not get it to sharpen my knife like I can get it on a stone. to me this was a total waste of money.

[tommag]

After reading this, I bought the ko edition. It works well, and is fast. It occurs to me that sharpening in the field would be a problem, as I would have to overcome the convex grind to sharpen with a stone.

[LeadHead72]

hanleyfan, I also bought one some time ago and have been quite disappointed.

[alamogunr]

I suspect that those who are disappointed in the WorkSharp KO are better at sharpening on stones than I am. I have always been somewhat disappointed in my results from stones.

[Omega]

The important thing to remember is that you have to get the burr on each side before going to the next grade of belt. When you get the burr, it signals that you have the convex grind correct. On a couple of my butcher knives, I had to do about 15 passes per side, 5 at a time per side, before I seen any burr. I too had thought I had wasted my money, got the original edition, then I finally got a good grind and got all my blades shaving sharp.

[44man]

I just got the ken Onion model and like the adjustable angles. I got it from Cabela's and had points but don't know if I hit the right buttons, site has changed. I called but still looks like I got charged. I had more then enough to get it free. I will not know until I get a bill.
I am so sick of dull kitchen knives. I can stone sharpen to a razor but time is long. This looks like a super time saver.

[alamogunr]

I'm not good at sharpening by hand. Our kitchen knives are always needing sharpening. SWMBO is always doing violence to them and I have to try to repair their edges. Much easier now.

BTW, 44man, I got mine "free" with credit card points too. I finally figured out if I've got to spend the money anyway, I might as well get some benefit. The only problem I have is being reminded each month when the statement comes how much I've spent.

[Omega]

I can sharpen by hand, and still do with my EDC knife, but there are times when a knife just gets too out of profile that it requires a lot of time to grind it back in. The work sharp does this pretty good, and fast, so I don't have to sit there honing my knife for hours on an Arkansas or diamond stone. After a good profile has been accomplished, its a snap to get it back to razor sharpness with a strop, steel, or stone.

[44man]

I still don't know if my points were used. I had near $300. I use the card for everything, gas to booze. Pay it off every month. No debt allowed. My bill shows $149.53 when it should be zero.
But the tool is worth it. I made a mistake on the belt kit. It is for the the tool grinding option. Not explained on the site. I will not buy the option because I use an angle grinder for mower blades.

[labradigger1]

I bought the ko version this last weekend.
I have a couple old timer hunting knives that are and always have been a sob to sharpen, not now! Every knife in the house is stupid sharp, even my hard to sharpen leathermans.
Well worth the price for me just to keep them sharp.

[44man]

I wish this tool was made long ago. Remember the hardware store knives? Always a case full of hunting knives but I forget the brand. I kept stones at work to sharpen knives for fellas and my broad heads. My friend brought his in and the thing was so hard it took hours to sharpen. K-Bar sticks in my mind.
Then Case and Queen were extremely hard, so is Cold Steel. I had a Case folding Hunter that was so sharp I carved an entire ML stock out of curly maple without having to sharpen it. Have to cut cross grain too.
Buck disappointed me back then, never held an edge. Kitchen knives are still junk. The cheap stainless can't even be sold for scrap. I worked part time fixing vending machines and we took old to the yard. I found piles of blade blanks rejected from a knife maker, took many home to make handles. Real junk metal.
I found a few blades for Marine bayonets in an airplane pit once. Knives had no handles and the shipment broke open unloaded at another station. Talk about hard steel! Supervisor signed them off to me, too expensive to get back.
This tool would have made life easy. I hated to grind blades on a grinder by hand. I did not have the super tool grinder then. I have one from Woodcraft now, turns slower then most grinders and lathe tools are a piece of cake. Best deal ever, it was $80 and I made an oak stand with a door and shelves in it. Made adjustable platens to get angles.
Joy is good tools.