Texasflyboy
05-26-2008, 11:24 AM
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/7.jpg
Each rack has 9 upper plates that can be set to drop from .22LR all the way up to lead loads not exceeding 1400fps. I built these racks out of 1/2" plate steel, not AR 500 armor plate. These racks will last a long long time with lead or jacketed loads. Not for use with rifle loads. The upper plates will flop down out of sight when hit, and you pull on a long rope to reset them. The lower plates are just swingers. Each rack has 9 upper plates that fall when hit, and 7 lower swinger plates for a total of 16 targets for each rack. The upper plates are quick change , remove one bolt and they slide out for replacement, repair, or easy transport. These racks were designed to be easy to break down and transport. Two men can easily set these up in the field. In a pinch, I have transported these solo when I was alone, but it wasn't easy. The plate rack is 10 feet wide. All the targets are removable for repair or transport, as are the legs. Both racks can be transported to and from a range in the back of a standard pickup truck, or in a carry behind trailer if so desired.
Each rack assembled weighs over 200 lbs. In case any of the plates are damaged from use, or misuse, they can easily be removed for welding repair, or spares can be fabricated from 5/8" rebar and common 1/2" steel plate for minimal cost. A small set of spares (nuts and bolts) are built into the design and are shown in the photos. All nuts and bolts for the plates and legs require a single size wrench or socket (3/4"). The counterweight and pull arm will requite a crescent wrench or pipe wrench for removal.
The goal of this project was to use scrap steel whenever possible, and common hardware items that could be found at a local hardware store or junkyard. I got all the 1/2" bolts, a 5 gallon bucket full at a local auction, for $10. The 1/2" steel plate was an old pothole plate that the local city was tossing away because it was warped. The rebar was free, scavenged from the side of the road or asked for, and given for free, at local construction sites when the construction was over. There is always, always, rebar everywhere. You just have to look for it.
My costs were: 6011 welding rod, One tank of Oxygen, One Tank of Acetylene, about 10 grinding pads, and small one time costs per rack. (Note: A tank of O2 and Acet. lasted about three or four racks).
A 24oz. Miller Lite Beer can was purchased ice cold at the end of a long hot day, consumed, and reused as the mould for the counterweight. I cut the top of the can off, made it wide open, set a long 1" bolt threads up with a flat washer welded on the head to make it stand up inside the beer can and filled the empty space with hot lead. When cool, I peeled off the can and had a lead counterweight to pull the reset arm back that could be screwed in and out for transport. So add one 24oz can of beer to the list of essential items.
I went through three design (failures) before I arrived at this final design. It still isn't perfect, but close enough. The goal was achieved, use scrap steel whenever possible, and nothing special order or unique. Replacement plates are easy to fabricate in case some bonehead shoots it with a rifle. Or you can just weld them up. Most of the small parts (washers, nuts, big bolts and nuts) were practically free at junkyards or construction sites.
As I said, two people can easily transport this back and forth to a range. Or it can be setup and left at your favorite range.
I fabricated an even dozen of these racks last year. Fab time was 5 business days, about 8 hours per day. The first three days was consumed cutting all the steel with a Oxy/Acet torch. Thursday and Friday was welding all day. I usually finished a rack late Friday evening.
Below is a short quicktime movie showing how the manual reset works:
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/target158.MOV
Photos:
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/0.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/1.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/2.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/3.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/4.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/5.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/6.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/7.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/8.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/9.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/10.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/11.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/12.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/13.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/14.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/15.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/16.jpg
Each rack has 9 upper plates that can be set to drop from .22LR all the way up to lead loads not exceeding 1400fps. I built these racks out of 1/2" plate steel, not AR 500 armor plate. These racks will last a long long time with lead or jacketed loads. Not for use with rifle loads. The upper plates will flop down out of sight when hit, and you pull on a long rope to reset them. The lower plates are just swingers. Each rack has 9 upper plates that fall when hit, and 7 lower swinger plates for a total of 16 targets for each rack. The upper plates are quick change , remove one bolt and they slide out for replacement, repair, or easy transport. These racks were designed to be easy to break down and transport. Two men can easily set these up in the field. In a pinch, I have transported these solo when I was alone, but it wasn't easy. The plate rack is 10 feet wide. All the targets are removable for repair or transport, as are the legs. Both racks can be transported to and from a range in the back of a standard pickup truck, or in a carry behind trailer if so desired.
Each rack assembled weighs over 200 lbs. In case any of the plates are damaged from use, or misuse, they can easily be removed for welding repair, or spares can be fabricated from 5/8" rebar and common 1/2" steel plate for minimal cost. A small set of spares (nuts and bolts) are built into the design and are shown in the photos. All nuts and bolts for the plates and legs require a single size wrench or socket (3/4"). The counterweight and pull arm will requite a crescent wrench or pipe wrench for removal.
The goal of this project was to use scrap steel whenever possible, and common hardware items that could be found at a local hardware store or junkyard. I got all the 1/2" bolts, a 5 gallon bucket full at a local auction, for $10. The 1/2" steel plate was an old pothole plate that the local city was tossing away because it was warped. The rebar was free, scavenged from the side of the road or asked for, and given for free, at local construction sites when the construction was over. There is always, always, rebar everywhere. You just have to look for it.
My costs were: 6011 welding rod, One tank of Oxygen, One Tank of Acetylene, about 10 grinding pads, and small one time costs per rack. (Note: A tank of O2 and Acet. lasted about three or four racks).
A 24oz. Miller Lite Beer can was purchased ice cold at the end of a long hot day, consumed, and reused as the mould for the counterweight. I cut the top of the can off, made it wide open, set a long 1" bolt threads up with a flat washer welded on the head to make it stand up inside the beer can and filled the empty space with hot lead. When cool, I peeled off the can and had a lead counterweight to pull the reset arm back that could be screwed in and out for transport. So add one 24oz can of beer to the list of essential items.
I went through three design (failures) before I arrived at this final design. It still isn't perfect, but close enough. The goal was achieved, use scrap steel whenever possible, and nothing special order or unique. Replacement plates are easy to fabricate in case some bonehead shoots it with a rifle. Or you can just weld them up. Most of the small parts (washers, nuts, big bolts and nuts) were practically free at junkyards or construction sites.
As I said, two people can easily transport this back and forth to a range. Or it can be setup and left at your favorite range.
I fabricated an even dozen of these racks last year. Fab time was 5 business days, about 8 hours per day. The first three days was consumed cutting all the steel with a Oxy/Acet torch. Thursday and Friday was welding all day. I usually finished a rack late Friday evening.
Below is a short quicktime movie showing how the manual reset works:
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/target158.MOV
Photos:
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/0.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/1.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/2.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/3.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/4.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/5.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/6.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/7.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/8.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/9.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/10.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/11.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/12.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/13.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/14.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/15.jpg
http://hgmould.gunloads.com/b/16.jpg