alexzxz
07-30-2016, 02:49 AM
So today I finally got my first BP revolver, an 1858 Remington Short. To think I was so excited to have it and the next 6 hrs would be a nightmare.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8674/28612413726_35e4d8761c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KAo6L3)IMG_20160730_021202 (https://flic.kr/p/KAo6L3) by AlexZxZ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/49319171@N03/), on Flickr
The whole thing was slightly greased from packaging so I went ahead and disassembled it according to a video. Very quickly some obvious differences, you can't remove the cylinder pin on the short version.
Then I hit a problem. The trigger spring screw wouldn't come out. I was using a slightly smaller screwdriver but it worked for all the similar sized screws except this one. Tried almost everything: soaking it in penetrating oil, giving it a few whacks, heating it, chilling it, even turning it clockwise to see if I could engage the threads, nothing worked. Finally decided to **** it and went ahead and washed the frame with the cylinder stop bolt and spring inside.
Then came reassembly. I was following the video and the guy put it the hammer screw before the main spring, which seemed odd because then the spring is under tension when going in, making it much harder. His solution: whack it in. If you put the spring in first however, that seats in easily and the hammer screw goes in under tension but still much easier than otherwise. Shows you can't trust "experts" as infalleable.
Finally reassembled, but the sear wouldn't lock the hammer at full cock 80% of the time and there was no half-cock. I thought I'd gotten a busted gun.
Convinced it was that spring, I tried everything all over again and attempted to force the screw to turn. By this point, the screw was pretty much stripped. Finally decided to bite the bullet and drill out the screw with a Dremel. Then hammered in a hex star screwdriver bit and unscrewed it.
Yep it was the spring. The spring has to go over the trigger in order to engage hammer. Fixed it back, and now the hammer cocks reliably.
But still not done. The timing was messed up. After some fiddling, finally figured out the cylinder stop bolt was definitely lower than it should be so it wasn't catching the cylinder. Because I was afraid to over-tighten that screw, I had under-tightened it.
Finally, got a fully functional revolver at 2AM. Still have no idea how to reliably roll the cylinder in every time (Any tips?) but I'm done for now. If I hadn't ****ed up so bad, I would't have gotten to know the workings as intimately. Definitely useful for long term care.
TL;DR Version
1. The OEM screws SUCK!
2. Use proper fitting screwdrivers (Amazon review says you can just grind a cheap screwdriver with a Dremel)
3. If all else fails, drill the sucker out.
4. If the sear isn't engaging the hammer, the spring's not on right.
5. If the timing is off, check the cylinder bolt.
5. Learnt alot.
6. Now time to spend money on spare parts.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8674/28612413726_35e4d8761c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KAo6L3)IMG_20160730_021202 (https://flic.kr/p/KAo6L3) by AlexZxZ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/49319171@N03/), on Flickr
The whole thing was slightly greased from packaging so I went ahead and disassembled it according to a video. Very quickly some obvious differences, you can't remove the cylinder pin on the short version.
Then I hit a problem. The trigger spring screw wouldn't come out. I was using a slightly smaller screwdriver but it worked for all the similar sized screws except this one. Tried almost everything: soaking it in penetrating oil, giving it a few whacks, heating it, chilling it, even turning it clockwise to see if I could engage the threads, nothing worked. Finally decided to **** it and went ahead and washed the frame with the cylinder stop bolt and spring inside.
Then came reassembly. I was following the video and the guy put it the hammer screw before the main spring, which seemed odd because then the spring is under tension when going in, making it much harder. His solution: whack it in. If you put the spring in first however, that seats in easily and the hammer screw goes in under tension but still much easier than otherwise. Shows you can't trust "experts" as infalleable.
Finally reassembled, but the sear wouldn't lock the hammer at full cock 80% of the time and there was no half-cock. I thought I'd gotten a busted gun.
Convinced it was that spring, I tried everything all over again and attempted to force the screw to turn. By this point, the screw was pretty much stripped. Finally decided to bite the bullet and drill out the screw with a Dremel. Then hammered in a hex star screwdriver bit and unscrewed it.
Yep it was the spring. The spring has to go over the trigger in order to engage hammer. Fixed it back, and now the hammer cocks reliably.
But still not done. The timing was messed up. After some fiddling, finally figured out the cylinder stop bolt was definitely lower than it should be so it wasn't catching the cylinder. Because I was afraid to over-tighten that screw, I had under-tightened it.
Finally, got a fully functional revolver at 2AM. Still have no idea how to reliably roll the cylinder in every time (Any tips?) but I'm done for now. If I hadn't ****ed up so bad, I would't have gotten to know the workings as intimately. Definitely useful for long term care.
TL;DR Version
1. The OEM screws SUCK!
2. Use proper fitting screwdrivers (Amazon review says you can just grind a cheap screwdriver with a Dremel)
3. If all else fails, drill the sucker out.
4. If the sear isn't engaging the hammer, the spring's not on right.
5. If the timing is off, check the cylinder bolt.
5. Learnt alot.
6. Now time to spend money on spare parts.