Break the corners?

[robroy]

A new Kimber Ultra Carry just followed me home. I field stripped it and found the lugs and the back of the cut at the muzzle end where the barrel seats in the slide (bushingless) to have sharp corners. My first thought was to use an India stone on the edges to break the corners but thought I'd check here first. As someone's signature says: sometimes you should ignore the good idea fairy. Thanks in advance.

[country gent]

A hard india stone in a finer grit will work but may take more off the corners than you want. At work on die steels and gages we would use a thin piece of brass or copper ( about the same size as a jewelers file) and very fine diamond lapping compound to remove burrs and or break sharp corners. Flitz or simichrome would work also. just breaking the sharp edge and leaving very little dicernable change. I have a set of these made up in various shapes and Have used them for years in this manner. I have them made up both as jewlers files and riffles they work grat for just breaking the sharp edge and still leaves that edge clean looking.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I believe I'd shoot it a bunch first and see if the gun knocks those corners off for you..

You kind of have to be careful when deburring the inside of a gun as sometimes the sharp corners need to be there.

If you understand exactly how the gun works then you should be able to decide if you need to do this. In the case of a Kimber I don't think you do simply because they detail their guns pretty well at the factory. That's the difference between a $500 gun and a $1500 gun.

You paid extra for the detail work.

I'd shoot it a lot first.

My .02

Randy

[robroy]

Shootin it alot was the other alternative that came to my mind. Too bad all those reloads will void the warranty:bigsmyl2:

[edwardware]

I believe I'd shoot it a bunch first and see if the gun knocks those corners off for you..

I'm with Buchanan. My Kimbers, when new, had sharp corners. on the lugs, and were a bit jerky going into lockup. By the time you've spent enough time shooting it to be confident in it (~500 rounds), it will have smoothed right out.

[robroy]

The booklet that comes with the pistol advises 400 to 500 rounds of factory 230 gr for breaking it in. I was given 50 rounds of Rem fmj and have a 100 or so fmj reloads that plunk into the chamber just fine. After that threre's 5000 pieces of 200gr swc comercial cast that mics @ .451. When I get some brass from that gun I'll make some dummies and see what happens.

[izzyjoe]

Shootin it alot was the other alternative that came to my mind. Too bad all those reloads will void the warranty:bigsmyl2:
What reloads!

[DCM]

What reloads!

Exactly.

[DCM]

I believe I'd shoot it a bunch first and see if the gun knocks those corners off for you..

You kind of have to be careful when deburring the inside of a gun as sometimes the sharp corners need to be there.

If you understand exactly how the gun works then you should be able to decide if you need to do this. In the case of a Kimber I don't think you do simply because they detail their guns pretty well at the factory. That's the difference between a $500 gun and a $1500 gun.

You paid extra for the detail work.

I'd shoot it a lot first.

My .02

Randy

Big +1 on that. If it aint broke...

[waksupi]

Steel wool.

[robroy]

166 rounds through the pistol yesterday. 2 feed jams happened with some CCI aluminum cased ammo that didn'work well in the last pistol I tried it in. Both Rem and Win factory fmj functioned just fine. I'll leave the lugs alone. The burr at the front came off with a little scraping. I used the edge of a case mouth to knock it off.

As I was reassembling after cleaning I dropped the tool Kimber included for the control rod. The darn thing fell out. I guess a paperclip will do the next time.