Ruger no.1 build underway, 1000 yrd rifle.

[Tnfalconer]

This is a rifle that has been in the safe for a while with no use so it gets to be the sacrificial lamb for my new custom built. I need a new rifle to shoot Quigley and the other assorted 1000 yrd buffalo matches. This one will be a little unique I think. Today I stripped the rifle down and pulled the barrel. It is a factory 300 H&H. Selling off all the original parts.

Phase two starts with a new chromoly 15 twist barrel in the lathe. This is a barrel that I have had for quite some time. I'll basically straight taper it to 30". Then cut and thread for the action and move on to the stocks for now. Since the actual case I will be using is still a little up in the air, I'll jump past that for now.

The stocks will be well figured piece of Bastogne walnut profiled with a larger cheek rest from a guy in SD. The fore arm will be a little more custom. Think varmint just a little longer. Pics up when I have something to show

[Tatume]

Hello, I presume the new barrel is also 30 caliber? If so, isn't 1:15" rifling a little slow?

[Tnfalconer]

The new barrel is 50 caliber.

[RPRNY]

The Ruger No 1 action can be made remarkably accurate. It is strong and stiff. The stocks sound lovely. Getting the forend not to impede accuracy can be a little tricky but it sounds like you know what you're doing ;D Looking forward to pics and the cartridge decision.

[Tnfalconer]

The Ruger No 1 action can be made remarkably accurate. It is strong and stiff. The stocks sound lovely. Getting the forend not to impede accuracy can be a little tricky but it sounds like you know what you're doing ;D Looking forward to pics and the cartridge decision.

Me too! I was just speaking on the phone with another member here and he said the same thing. "man I wanna see that thing when it's done." Me too, I told him. Right now it's all just ideas floating around in my head with a bunch of parts laying the shop in various places. I'm a gunsmith with lots of experience but honestly, I don't know that I have ever built a rifle like this one. IN the aspect of going this far with asthetics and intended purpose. IN the past I have built mostly 1911's and tactical rifles. That is my bread and butter. Fine wood and single shot actions are not in my general wheel house but this rifle is my opportunity to put all the little quirky cool ideas I have had in the past into one rifle. We'll see how it turns out! I will keep this updated with pics, so I can hear what I am doing wrong....LOL.

[Tnfalconer]

Should have a proof for the engraving on the side of the action today. I will post pictures of the proof when I get it. A decision was made with the stocks as well today. They will be a high cheek piece Scheutzen/stevens style on the stock and forearms with some slight modifications for the Ruger no.1. I am really looking forward to the completion of the stocks. All parts are accounted for, now I just need to decide on a cartridge. I am torn between using the .50 Alaskan and the 50-90 sharps. With the sharps being designed for black powder I am not sure how much pressure it will take with modern powder. The 50 Alaskan is much stronger structurally and designed for modern powder but isn't traditional at all...

[dubber123]

Not sure what speed you require, but I got 560 grain boolits to 1,800+ fps. in a 24" barreled 50-90 at Trapdoor level pressures. I don't have a lot of brass, which was used when I bought it. It has lasted many loadings with no failures.

[Tnfalconer]

I really want to use the 50-90, for no other reason than nostalgia to be honest. I think it will do what I need it to do as far as powder capacity to get the larger bullets up to speed, I may just have to stick them out there a little farther. With the .50 Alaskan I am scared of running out of case capacity. I will be shooting the larger 750-900grn 50 BMG bullets.

[bbqncigars]

NOE makes a nice .50 boolit mold if you really want to get into it. I bought the gas check version, and it weighs north of 950 grains. It probably would do the job on any critter bigger than a hamster. ;-)

[Jedman]

Tnfalconer, No worries about the strength of modern Starline 50-90 brass with smokeless powder. Your Ruger no. 1 is a great platform for such a rifle.
Recoil will be your limiting factor.

Good Luck with your project ! Jedman

[Tnfalconer]

Tnfalconer, No worries about the strength of modern Starline 50-90 brass with smokeless powder. Your Ruger no. 1 is a great platform for such a rifle.
Recoil will be your limiting factor.

Good Luck with your project ! Jedman


That's sort of the plan. (HAHAHAHAHHAAAA) Load it until I can't stand to shoot it anymore and back off. See where that puts me. I am tried and true 50 caliber guy so I can take a good amount more recoil than the average joe but shot after shot wears the old shoulder down quickly.

[Tnfalconer]

NOE makes a nice .50 boolit mold if you really want to get into it. I bought the gas check version, and it weighs north of 950 grains. It probably would do the job on any critter bigger than a hamster. ;-)

I have been talking with Nelson this last week about that very mold and some modifications I want to make. We are working on something pretty cool I think. I will be trying the 750grn version of the same bullet as well, just to have some comparisons to make in accuracy at range.

[TXGunNut]

If you think your shoulder will put up with more than the 50-90 has to offer you could always give the 50 Alaskan a hyphenated name, lol. Wouldn't be surprised if someone already has. ;-) Looking forward to progress reports and pics.

[Jedman]

I have 3 rifles in 50-70 and shoot smokeless powder only. I like lighter recoiling loads, they shoot great and I have taken several deer with a 50-70.
I can't amagine trying to shoot it at 1000 yards :takinWiz::holysheep

Jedman

[Tnfalconer]

If you think your shoulder will put up with more than the 50-90 has to offer you could always give the 50 Alaskan a hyphenated name, lol. Wouldn't be surprised if someone already has. ;-) Looking forward to progress reports and pics.

I have been going back and forth between the 50 Alaskan and the 50-90. In the end the 50-90 is winning for pure nostalgia. Another one I looked at was 500 S&W believe it or not. It is a very sturdy case and would take lots of pressure. 50-90 has the case capacity I will need, modern brass will take the pressures and it will still have that little bit of nostalgia. So it won.

[Tnfalconer]

I have 3 rifles in 50-70 and shoot smokeless powder only. I like lighter recoiling loads, they shoot great and I have taken several deer with a 50-70.
I can't amagine trying to shoot it at 1000 yards :takinWiz::holysheep

Jedman

It's an every weekend affair here. My local club has a 1,000 yrd match 4 times a month. The predominance of rifles shot are 45-70 and 45-90 so the 50-70 will get there just fine. You should try it!

[flint45]

.50-90 for sure it will take it my sarline .50-70 just keeps going bp or smokless its good stuff for sure and I never wore out any of my .50-140 brass eaither it was from a co. named Red Willow I think been a long time.

[Huvius]

I have a Ruger No.1 in 50-110 with a 28" heavy-ish barrel.
Modern cases have no problem with high pressure and, as stated above, your recoil tolerance is the only limiting factor.
Mine is on the weighty side but I still prefer not to punish myself trying to hotrod it.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg312/Huvius/GunsFall10028.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/Huvius/media/GunsFall10028.jpg.html)

[Tnfalconer]

I have a Ruger No.1 in 50-110 with a 28" heavy-ish barrel.
Modern cases have no problem with high pressure and, as stated above, your recoil tolerance is the only limiting factor.
Mine is on the weighty side but I still prefer not to punish myself trying to hotrod it.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg312/Huvius/GunsFall10028.jpg (http://s251.photobucket.com/user/Huvius/media/GunsFall10028.jpg.html)

Are you shooting black powder or smokeless? Handloads? Velocities? I'm putting together as much info as I can on them and since 50-90 and 50-110 are so close, It would be beneficial to know how you are loading that one.

[Tnfalconer]

Just got an email, stocks should be done this week! Three weeks earlier than promised. Now we're cooking.

[Huvius]

Are you shooting black powder or smokeless? Handloads? Velocities? I'm putting together as much info as I can on them and since 50-90 and 50-110 are so close, It would be beneficial to know how you are loading that one.


I settled on 80grs of H4350 and 450gr jacketed Hawk bullets and it shot pretty well. I don't know the velocity.
I haven't goofed with it for a few years as I have been working up loads for some BPE rifles and just don't have the time for all of them. Hardly time for any of them really...

[roscoe]

I need a new rifle to shoot Quigley and the other assorted 1000 yrd buffalo matches

You might want to check the rules before driving very far for a gong or buffalo match. The matches I attend, a Ruger #1 would not be allowed. The rifles must be in the time period, 1874 etc, with iron sights or scopes of the same time period. Some are black powder only while others will allow smokeless, but the rifle still has to be in the time period. Just because it is a falling block action does not mean it qualifies.

[Tnfalconer]

I need a new rifle to shoot Quigley and the other assorted 1000 yrd buffalo matches

You might want to check the rules before driving very far for a gong or buffalo match. The matches I attend, a Ruger #1 would not be allowed. The rifles must be in the time period, 1874 etc, with iron sights or scopes of the same time period. Some are black powder only while others will allow smokeless, but the rifle still has to be in the time period. Just because it is a falling block action does not mean it qualifies.

I live in MONTANA about two hours from the club that sponsors all of the matches I intend to shoot, I have spoken to all judges and club officials for both the buffalo matches and the Quigley shoot. IT IS LEGAL for every match here with the exception of NRA Silhouette. Just because a club somewhere else doesn't allow it doesn't mean anything.

[Tnfalconer]

Just a quick note. My new stocks are about a week out. I can't say enough about Gail at CPA rifles. They are great to work with! Can't wait to have the new wood in house to start initial assembly.

[Tnfalconer]

Barrel is now ready to install although not chambered as of yet. Turning that big BMG blank into something sleek and sexy was a chore. I really like the chrome lined bores for this style of rifle. I have used many of them in the past with great success. This one started out life as a new m-2 aircraft barrel. Stocks are still inbound, haven't seen them yet.

[Clark]

Phase two starts with a new chromoly 15 twist barrel in the lathe.

What does a #1 rebarreling entail? I have some donors.
I have done Mausers, Rem 700, Sav110, ... all easy
I have done Sav99, Mosin 91/30 all hard to do.
I have done Win1885... really hard to do.

[Frank46]

Do yourself a great big favor. Listen to my tale of woe. Sent in a ruger #3 which was a 45/70 to be rebarreled to 30-30 with full diameter barrel 28" long. I measured 1000 RP 30-30 cases to get the median rim thickness so I could tell the smith how much of the base should be sticking out the barrel. Upon firing the newly rebarreled rifle I had the primers all of them sticking out 7-8 thousandths. He obviously did not follow my directions. probably used go and no go guages. Sent it back and I was told that he had set headspace as I requested. I replied yeah well you tell me why I have primers extending out past the base of the cartridge on the first 20 cartridges fired in the rifles you rebarreled. I specificallt told you to make up a dummy guage .004 and that was supposed to be the go guage. Ruger's breech blocks can be moved forward even for standard catridges. I told him that move the breech block as far as you can and see how much you get. Never answered my questions. Frank

[bigted]

And I thought my rifle was worn out what with the block moving forward and back.

[Certaindeaf]

Do yourself a great big favor. Listen to my tale of woe. Sent in a ruger #3 which was a 45/70 to be rebarreled to 30-30 with full diameter barrel 28" long. I measured 1000 RP 30-30 cases to get the median rim thickness so I could tell the smith how much of the base should be sticking out the barrel. Upon firing the newly rebarreled rifle I had the primers all of them sticking out 7-8 thousandths. He obviously did not follow my directions. probably used go and no go guages. Sent it back and I was told that he had set headspace as I requested. I replied yeah well you tell me why I have primers extending out past the base of the cartridge on the first 20 cartridges fired in the rifles you rebarreled. I specificallt told you to make up a dummy guage .004 and that was supposed to be the go guage. Ruger's breech blocks can be moved forward even for standard catridges. I told him that move the breech block as far as you can and see how much you get. Never answered my questions. Frank
Rifle actions flex and you probably got exactly what you asked for.

[Frank46]

Maybe so but since the primers stick out .007-008 from the case head. Took over a year and cost some decent money. Frank

[Nrut]

Tnfalconer,
What type of sighting system are you going to use on your Ruger?

[Tnfalconer]

What does a #1 rebarreling entail? I have some donors.
I have done Mausers, Rem 700, Sav110, ... all easy
I have done Sav99, Mosin 91/30 all hard to do.
I have done Win1885... really hard to do.

No.1's are very easy. Cut and single point in the threads. Cut chamber and recess for case head, check headspacing then measure and remove barrel to cut for ejector. Simple.

[Tnfalconer]

Tnfalconer,
What type of sighting system are you going to use on your Ruger?
For this rifle I will be making my own tang sights, Goodwin style long range sights.

[Tnfalconer]

Do yourself a great big favor. Listen to my tale of woe. Sent in a ruger #3 which was a 45/70 to be rebarreled to 30-30 with full diameter barrel 28" long. I measured 1000 RP 30-30 cases to get the median rim thickness so I could tell the smith how much of the base should be sticking out the barrel. Upon firing the newly rebarreled rifle I had the primers all of them sticking out 7-8 thousandths. He obviously did not follow my directions. probably used go and no go guages. Sent it back and I was told that he had set headspace as I requested. I replied yeah well you tell me why I have primers extending out past the base of the cartridge on the first 20 cartridges fired in the rifles you rebarreled. I specificallt told you to make up a dummy guage .004 and that was supposed to be the go guage. Ruger's breech blocks can be moved forward even for standard catridges. I told him that move the breech block as far as you can and see how much you get. Never answered my questions. Frank

Well since the gunsmith working on this rifle is me, I won't be doing that. I don't use go-no go gauges as I am looking for a match chamber. I have done several in the years past and never heard of this issue you had.

[Tnfalconer]

I'm sort of sitting here waiting on all the parts to come back from various sources for various reasons. Receiver is being engraved by a friend, stocks have no arrived although they are expected anytime. Steel and parts for custom vernier sights has been ordered and awaiting shipment. This is the part of projects that I hate, waiting. I sit here twittling my thumbs with a shell of a rifle that I plan to build. I really want to get this thing to a point to start load development with it before the snow flies but we'll see what happens. If nothing else it will be a gorgeous thing to look at until I can get out and play with it....

[Tnfalconer]

174268


I had to take a minute to post a picture of my receiver for this rifle build. This is the side engraving for "Ma Belle"....she is getting closer by the day to being ready to "Reach out and TOUCH somebody"....

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

I am reminded (painfully) of the year I shot Quigley between my Brother Ed and his 16 lb Sharps 50-90 and some guy and his silhouette legal weight Sharps 50-140.

[Tnfalconer]

Duelling big 50's....hmmm.

[Tnfalconer]

Stocks came in today. This picture does not do them any justice at all. This is a FINE piece of wood from CPA rifles. Bastogne walnut shaped in the Scheutzen style for the Ruger no.1 I am deep lust already. The heavy marbling and figure shows a little in the forearm. I am excited to get them under sandpaper with a little finish to see what they are really going to look like. I have some work to do to them before that but I am chomping at the bit to get them going. VERY tickled with these.
174507

[Tnfalconer]

Just got the email my receiver is heading back, stocks are in with new butt plate, barrel is almost done in the shop and now the real work begins of turning this pile of really nice parts into a fine rifle. Looking forward to the process but I have a good amount of work to do before I can start finish work.

The stock will be getting a "Max" recoil reducer. The forearm will be milled for an aluminum bedding block to stabilize the forearm to the receiver. After first rough fit, the entire rifle will be balanced to a neutral weight in the left hand for offhand shooting. That will be tricky as it will require adding more weight to the butt stock and possibly to the fore arm. This is an old highpower trick, that I will use to make the rifle a little easier to handle for the offhand rounds at Quigley. Keep your fingers crossed, it's all starting to come together.

[Jedman]

Your project seems to be moving along at a good pace, much faster then my projects ever go.
It has only been less than a month since you started this thread about your rifle and have made great progress.
Looking forward to seeing future pics on the progress and to see it when finished and hear how She shoots since her name is Ma Belle.

Jedman

[Tnfalconer]

I have little doubt it will shoot well at this point but there is always a chance that it will need tweeking for sure. I like to get all the parts together before I really start in on a project. This one has been rolling around in my head for quite some time so it just needed to be put together. When you know what you want it's sort of easy to get things rolling. I am also very lucky to have good friends in the industry to help me get things done. I still have quite a ways to go as all I have at this point is a big pile of parts. Most of which require hand work now to finish. The stocks will take most of a month to finish by themselves so this is just the beginning.

[Tnfalconer]

So after a decent hiatus, I am back in the shop working on the Ruger. No.1

It seems the farther I get with this project the more questions I create versus answers. Now that the 50BMG barrel has been turned down and fitted it's time to chamber. The caliber selected is 50-90 sharps and I am giving thought to gas checks, grease or paper patching. Black powder will be the propellant of choice that I have established. Case capacity, even with this larger cartridge is a concern. Keep in mind this is a 1-15 twist barrel. Using the rockrat 880 grn bullet as the standard I plan to use, here are some questions.

Gas checks and grease work, will gas checks and paper patching work or offer any advantage? If paper patching will allow the bullet to be seated shallow in the case, I would prefer to use it. For no other reason than it allows more capacity. I do want the ability to extract a loaded round. In doing so I will need to throat the barrel for the deeper bullet. So that is what I am looking for information on now as I am at the point of chambering, loading and getting some smoke out of the thing finally.

[Chill Wills]

All I can think of is recoil. Should be a full, stout, shoulder banger.

GC at bp velocity are not likely needed. I guess they (GC's) are used at the "Q"? Maybe not so at other matches.

An almost 900 grain bullet propelled by BP supplied from the 50-90 Sharps (50-2.5") right? With this pairing I am seeing just about 1000 -1050 FPS with Swiss 1.5Fg. Not much more. Oh, and some recoil.

I am not sure you have any ballistic advantage here and likely a 45-70 BP paired with 540gr Money type bullet will best it hands down. If I understand what you propose, anyway. Not trying to be a killjoy, just thinking aloud - on the keyboard, as it were....

[Tnfalconer]

The major advantage will be ballistics. Particularly the BC of the bullet I have chosen to use, one reason for it being so heavy is that it is LONG. It has a BC that is twice that of the "Money" bullet. That means less elevation and less correction for the wind as well with the weight. Those 45-70's get pushed around a LOT down there in June with 20 plus variable winds being a near constant. This one will not get pushed around, at least not as much. I am looking for MV of 1300 FPS. If straight BP doesn't get me there, I will duplex as a last resort. It will be a kicker for sure. No way to get around that. With a rifle in the estimated 19-23 pound range, should help. The rest I will just suck up.

[Chill Wills]

So you have a bullet with a Bc of 1.1 - 1.2? Measured at what velocity range?

I think to get 1300fps out of it you will be loading smokeless and topping off with BP as a filler.

I would be interested in an image of the bullet if one is available. Who is the maker, rockrat bullets, maybe rockrat bullet mold? I am unsure who that is.

Sorry, I do not want to sound like a ___________ - it is this is a bit out of the norm. I have questions :p:idea:

[Tnfalconer]

Me too...that's why I am building it.

[rockrat]

Chill Wills----go to the NOE site and look up his .512 mould selection and you will find the image of the boolit




Rockrat

198405

[bigted]

im just prusing thru and wanted to coment on your bullet dropper. sounds fun [except for the recoil ... my 45-120 gives me all i want and then some with a 600 gr paper patch ... not too many of those in a row for me]. cant wait to see your finished rifle. sounds rite down sexy.

[Tnfalconer]

This is one that Rock rat sent me before Lathe turning....

[Chill Wills]

This is one that Rock rat sent me before Lathe turning....

So, .... if you are going to double the Bc of the pictured bullet, (lathe turning) it will be unrecognizable from the one pictured. Again, not being cranky, but the bullet pictured and in the posted plans isn't of much help (to us) if the one you are going to use in matches is nothing like it.

A 1.0 Bc, give or take, would be a very long, slippery bullet, with all the correct angles, radius, and nose geometry. And I would like to see a plan or image of that. I am thinking if everything is correct a bullet length much greater than two inches and maybe three plus is required. There is a point where diminished returns negates all else.

[marlinman93]

I'm wondering if your shoulder will stand 48 shots for score, plus sighters during the preceding days to know sight settings? I'm sure it will do better in the wind, just not sure it will matter to your body.

[Tnfalconer]

It will certainly be a hammer. In that respect I am quite accustomed and comfortable with heavy recoiling rifles. Time will tell how bad it actually is when it is all said and done. My reference for another gunsmith friend was "I plan to load it until I can't stand to shoot it anymore, and stop there". I have been running ballistic calculations this afternoon and what I am seeing is very, VERY promising. All things being equal starting at 1300 FPS it only drops 300 FPS at 1,000 yards. Velocity estimated at 900-980 depending on the parameters entered, wind and whatnot. Dropping the muzzle velocity to 1000 FPS shows an even small drop of just 180 FPS at 1,000 yards. As I have mentioned before in another thread it is very promising on paper and computer modeling. The proof will be in the pudding and the targets for sure and I am just as anxious to get it working to put these theories to the test.

[Tnfalconer]

So, .... if you are going to double the Bc of the pictured bullet, (lathe turning) it will be unrecognizable from the one pictured. Again, not being cranky, but the bullet pictured and in the posted plans isn't of much help (to us) if the one you are going to use in matches is nothing like it.

A 1.0 Bc, give or take, would be a very long, slippery bullet, with all the correct angles, radius, and nose geometry. And I would like to see a plan or image of that. I am thinking if everything is correct a bullet length much greater than two inches and maybe three plus is required. There is a point where diminished returns negates all else.


The long and short of it is I won't be posting my homework for the bullet itself until it is all hammered in stone. The ones I plan to use in matches will not be posted at all for public view. After all this thread is about the rifle, not the bullet. I am aware however that the bullet is a HUGE hinge component of all of this working out. Not being secret squirrel or anything I am just not sure I want someone standing on my work just yet. Just know that no matter what I do it will be a solid lead projectile to be in accordance with the rules of the match. There is no definition or rule as to what it has to look like. The fact is it may take several attempts to get it just right. When I get it "just right", I will be glad to post a pic of it but as far as posting schematics or dimensions on it, I won't be doing that either. 1.0 BC is the goal and a lofty one at that. So far with computer modeling all I have been able to achieve is around .6 with a poured bullet. With CNC I can not only increase the BC by modifying the shape for a higher BC but I can also control a lot of other small things. It's going to be a good amount of work, I know. I like playing with things like this and if it doesn't fulfill all of my hopes and dreams for it that's cool too. I just don't see that happening.

[Chill Wills]

Okay. 10-4 on that. I will bug out and wait to see you shooting lights out at some Creedmoor match. The Q is one venue and paper matches are another. I favor the paper matches - more resolution on the target for accuracy feedback - but that is me.

All the best. I hope you are shooting soon - like this season.

I will be the guy watching from the peanut gallery. :-P

[Tnfalconer]

Unfortunately this rifle won't be legal for any of the NRA matches, at least not for score anyway. The ruger no.1 isn't an approved action for competition. It has to have an exposed hammer to be admitted. I will be shooting the local 1k buffalo matches and the mile match I mentioned earlier. Along with the "Q" it should be plenty along with the other matches held in Forsyth, I should be good to go.

I will be load developing on paper so I will post some of that. Our local spot has video on target out to 1500 yards so I can maybe post some video as well as targets when we get a little farther along. For now I am still batting around paper patching or just sticking with a grease bullet and letting it rip, that and getting some more 50-90 brass are really all that is holding me up from load development. The rifle isn't finished mind you but it will be ready to shoot soon. After I am done screwing with the chambering it will need to be torn all apart again for refinishing, of which I haven't decided on yet.

[Chill Wills]

That is not true. The Ruger #1 action is legal for all NRA black powder target rifle matches.

[woodbutcher]

:D This looks like fun.I`ll saddle up and go along for the ride.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[Tnfalconer]

That is not true. The Ruger #1 action is legal for all NRA black powder target rifle matches.

Last time I looked at the rules the black powder silhouette matches require an external hammer rifle. Unless it has changed.

[Tnfalconer]

3.4 Black Powder Cartridge Rifle - A hunting or military style rifle, single shot, originally made for black powder cartridges, of United States manufacture prior to 1896 and being typical of the era. Replicas thereof, regardless of origin of manufacture, are permitted. Hammer must be exposed. If replacement barrels, stocks, or other parts are used, they must be as original. No Schuetzen-style rifles permitted. One rifle will be used during all phases of the match. Examples of permissible rifles are: Ballard, Buck, Bullard, Cole, Farrow, Maynard, Peabody, Redfield, Remington Hepburn, Remington Rolling Block, Sharps, Springfield Trapdoor, Stevens Tip-up, Stevens No. 44, Wesson Falling Block, Wesson (hinged barrel), Whitney Phoenix, Whitney Rolling Block, Winchester 1885, and Wurfflein. While the following single shot actions may not conform to the exact criteria of Rule 3.4, they are allowed because they conform to the spirit of the competition in forth and function, provided the firearms conform to all other configurations of Rule 3.4: Browning Model 1878, Browning Model 1885, C. Sharps '75, Falling Block Works, Stevens 44 1/2 and Wickliff '76. Replicas other than exact reproductions of pre-1896 Black Powder actions as described above and shooting equipment as described herein, must be passed by the Silhouette Committee with the advice of the Black Powder Committee. It shall be the competitor's responsibility to provide any documentation which may be required to establish that all Black Powder Cartridge Rifle equipment conforms to these rules.

[Chill Wills]

Your reading the silhouette rules. Different game.

They are not the rules for NRA BPCR target rifle - Creedmoor ( 800- 900- 1000yd matches. ) I know of what I write.

Matches known as NRA - "Black Powder Target Rifle"
Creedmoor -800-900-1000yr - any position
Mid-range - any position
Mid-range - three position

Shot on paper

[Chill Wills]

okay, I'm done. Next persons turn.:drinks::drinks:

[Gunlaker]

It would be interesting to see how well a really big .50 would do in BPTR competition. Most likely your rifle will be legal for NRA BPTR. It would have to be shot in the Tollofson class due to the weight.

Getting a BC of 1.0 will be a tall order, if for no reason other than getting mold blocks long enough. If it were me I'd simply scale up one of the BACO .45 cal minigroove Money bullets with reduced driving bands. You would only have a little of the bullet seated in the case, lots of exposed lube grooves for extra powder capacity.

I look forward to hearing how it turns out.

Chris.

[Tnfalconer]

1.0 is the goal but I will settle for a little less but if you're designing something from scratch , why not shoot for the stars?

I have a few designs in the works. Molds being made now actually. Two will be traditional greased versions and two will be paper patched. That will give me a real world head to head estimation of what it will do. I am looking for the maximum amount of accuracy I can get from lead and a single shot action. I have shot 50's for over half of my life in lots of forms. Not surprising I went directly to 50 caliber when looking to build a new test bed rifle.

Because I am using a BMG barrel (1-15 twist) the door is open for all other BMG boolits of which I have a LOT. Using the cast lead is simply to conform to the rules of the matches I plan to shoot. In matches that don't have that restriction I will be using Barnes, Papua or Hornady bullets. My lapua boolits are extremely slippery at 1.2 BC but they are also Not lead cast. I find my self back In a holding pattern of sorts again to wait on bullet molds before cutting the chamber in the rifle so that I can make up a dummy round for measurements pre-cutting.

[charlie b]

OK so I had to look it up.
NRA Black Powder Cartridge rules

3.1 Rifle
- Any safe, original or modern production or custom variety, breech loading rifle designed as a single shot. Bolt action rifles are specifically not allowed. Original or modern muzzle loading rifles, with or without a sealed ignition are also allowed. Safe triggers are required. Electronic triggers and adjustable butt plates are prohibited.
(a) Breechloading rifl es must be chambered for authentic, original black powder cartridges and calibers, taking into account normal variations in types of brass and primers as well as bore sizes, rifl ing styles and twist and chamber dimensions.
(b) The rifl e, including all attachments such as, but not limited to slings and sights, shall not weigh more than 15 pounds unloaded.
(c) Wiping the bore between shots is permitted.
(d) Use of an offset blow tube is permitted between shots from the breech or muzzle.
(e) Add-on cheek pieces are permitted.

Note, these may not be current as it was a quick net search.
http://rulebooks.nra.org/documents/pdf/compete/RuleBooks/Blkpwdr/bp-book.pdf

[charlie b]

Anything new? This build makes me wish I had kept that .50BMG barrel I had sitting around. :)

Would still not mind finding a Ruger action to do a build.

[Tnfalconer]

Not just yet, I am waiting on bullet molds to come in. Should be another week or so and I will have at least two to start working up loads on. Both have tons of potential but like everything, you never know till it's done.

[Jedman]

Sure would like to see a couple of pics of your rifle:happy dance:
I have been following this thread since you started it and would like to see what a 1000 yard rifle looks like. Sounds cool !
Jedman

[marlinman93]

would like to see what a 1000 yard rifle looks like. Sounds cool !
Jedman

A 1,000 yd. rifle can take on various looks. But most are large capacity cases, with heavy bullets, and very long barrels. Original Creedmoor rifles for 800-1000 yd. match shooting all had 34" max. length barrels. Also had flat hard rubber or steel buttplates to handle the heavy recoil.
This is a #7 Ballard Long Range Creedmoor rifle. Under the 10 lb. weight limit, and 34" half octagon barrel. A full octagon would not be under the 10 lb. limit.

http://i.imgur.com/zHy32rnl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BqoTLOZl.jpg

And the .44-100 Ballard cartridge, with 535 grain bullet. The case is 3.25" long:

http://i.imgur.com/rzKch3zl.jpg

[Tnfalconer]

That is a very nice piece of Iron good sir. Very nice indeed. My rifle build will be lucky to be under 25 pounds....HA! Is that a sight extension on the rear?

[marlinman93]

That is a very nice piece of Iron good sir. Very nice indeed. My rifle build will be lucky to be under 25 pounds....HA! Is that a sight extension on the rear?

Thanks!
Not a sight extension, but a Ballard long range vernier sight. The aperture is not threaded on in the picture, but it's a large 1" diameter. The gun was missing it's globe sight when I bought it in the picture, but I've found and replaced it since then.
I believe some types of long range matches still have various weight limits. But I think the Quigley doesn't have any weight limit.

[Tnfalconer]

Yup, the matches that I am planning to shoot don't have any weight limits. The barrel on my rifle weighs 13 pounds by itself. 31" barrel 1.250 at the breech and 1.00 at the muzzle. Straight taper after 3.5". It's a beast but for a .510 bullet it isn't all that heavy.

I know where there is an old Ballard 45-100 hanging on a wall in a bar here in Montana. I have tried to buy it a few times and no dice. I recently heard the bar closed down and the owner is selling. I think one more try might be in order.

[missionary5155]

Greetings
I have enjoyed reading this caliber 50 project. Should be an interesting first day at the range when it is all complete.
We have a 50 Alaskan on an 86 japchester with a 26" octagon barrel. I can write that a 525 grain at 1800 fps will make you understand that you just touched off a smasher. But with a proper leather butt cover it is no worse than 12 gauge with slugs.
Mike in Peru

[pull the trigger]

I know where there is an old Ballard 45-100 hanging on a wall in a bar here in Montana. I have tried to buy it a few times and no dice. I recently heard the bar closed down and the owner is selling. I think one more try might be in order.[/QUOTE]

Yes. Go see!!

[Huvius]

Any update on this project?
If you decide to go with 50 Alaskan I can hook you up with dies and brass.

[Three Bears]

Any update of this project? Pictures and range results as to targets and the "shooter".....:neutral: