.308 10" twist barrels ?

[Johnch]

I was at the gunsmith the other day
He had 3 barrels that he had taken off rifles and he just wanted to move the barrels

All 3 were Savage barrels in the Varmint weight , all were 308's
2 were taken off to put on high $$ barrels and the 3 , someone had messed up the chamber

At $20 each ,I figured I could have some fun

My first project is to make a single shot barrel for a H&R
As I have several cut off 12 gau barrel stubs , I would add scope bases ( my eyes don't work well with iron sights any more )
I figured I could then turn a barrel to just fit into the stub and use set screws to hold it in place
I was planning on a OAL of 18"-20" and cutting threads on it ....so if I get a Can , it will be ready to use

My question is if I chamber the barrel in 30/30 , will it properly stabilize a 130 -150 gr cast bullet at 1300 - 1600 FPS ?
Or even better will the 10" twist be to fast if I chambered the barrel in 30/20 ?
As this will be used mostly to put holes in paper targets or pop cans ...so a heavy bullet wouldn't be needed

Thanks
John

[Outpost75]

I used a 10" twist barrel to have John Taylor make a .32 S&W Long Bunny Rifle for me.

It stabilizes the Accurate 31-155D bullet subsonic with 5.5 grains of Alliant #2400 and is very accurate.

172495

The same barrel is also a little tack driver with factory 98-grain lead RN loads.

[Jedman]

I know several who have handi rifles in 300 blk out that have 1-7 twist and they shoot lightweight bullets fine.

Jedman

[Johnch]

Thanks
As I have time and no nasty headackes ...I will do this project and plan the next

John

[John Taylor]

Be best to thread the barrel stub and barrel, a couple drops of red loctite and it will not move. The original twist for 30-30 is 1 in 12", a 1 in 10" will work fine. Gunpartscorp (http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/HarringtonRichardson-33274/Rifles-36450/157-38732.htm?page=2)does not have the 30-30 ejector but they do have 22 hornet and 357 which could be machined to work.

[Johnch]

I have a 30-30 ejector in the parts box from parting out junk barrels that were given to me
I have the old shotgun barrel ID finished and the "New" barrel OD finished
I need to make a scope base , as the shotgun barrel stub has a taper and I want the scope to sit level

I am looking at using one of the Metal Bonding Epoxy to 100% make sure the barrel stub and the new barrel don't move ...as I can get small "sample" tubes from my friend at no cost

I am planning on 3 screws for the scope base , to pass through the old shotgun barrel stub and be a thread or 2 into the rifle barrel

The part that took more time than I expected so far was hand reaming the 30-30 chamber into the barrel
I will do the fish chamber after the 2 barrel parts finished as 1 part

And I know I will get laughs , but I have OD Green DuraCoat ....so that will be the finish

I was thinking of a Black Powder coat ....and I guess I still am
But I have a few steps before I need to do that

John

[Ballistics in Scotland]

The twist should be fine. My .300H&H, throated for 190gr. Matchkings, quite consistently gave at least as good 200 yard groups of all, 1⅛in., with 125gr. Sierra spire-points.

You don't say what length you mean by a stub. Threading is certainly the right thing to do if it was cut off immediately in front of the hinge pin. You would need to drill, bore or ream it to a true cylinder. There is a 7/8 -20 NEF tap, but I would go for 20 - 0.75mm., which is available from China on eBay.

Given an old H&R barrel, though, I would consider amputating it about where the front of the forend would come, and sleeving in the rifle barrel from the rear with no threading, but epoxy or one of the bearing-fitting grades of Loctite. A small step there wouldn't look out of place, or it could be hidden by a sling swivel band.

I would make sure the metal-to metal fit, either at the forcing cone if a .729in. diameter barrel isn't too light or at the rim if you want to enlarge to 12ga. chamber diameter. Another possibility might be a taper from the rim done with a ⅞in. taper pin reamer, which has a taper of ¼in. per foot. But that kind of Loctite is the stuff gunsmiths use for relining rifle barrels with smaller-diameter though longer contact surfaces. I don't think you would depend on metal to metal fit to avoid squirting out the new barrel.

[popper]

145gr. PB RNFP in BO 1:10 works fine @ 16-1700. Go for it.

[popper]

Got my 170gr PB working in the 1:10 336, a few may be tipping at 1300, going up a half grain.

[Regulator.]

at the distance that most shoot the 10 twist should be G2G.
John let us know how the project turns out especially the 30-20 idea.
Good Luck Sir.

[Johnch]

OK I am done
The bullet and Load I had for the other rifle grouped 4-5" at 100 yards
I had 5 left from a test I did a while back with AA 2200 and that group was 1 1/2" at 100 yards ...but that load was 1800 FPS
So this barrel my like a faster load

Need to load up some more of the AA 2200 loads as I need to do a little Crop Damage deer hunting
This set up would make the 50 yard head shots easy

John