lanolin and alcohol case lube???

[Walter Laich]

Looking for a (the) recipe for use of these two.

Figure you mix them and put in spray bottle

light spray on brass, let alcohol evaporate off and start sizing from there

thoughts, comments?

[DougGuy]

12:1 alcohol to liquid lanolin.

I just exhausted about $5 worth of gas hitting every possible spot in town looking for some. Only came up with some HPA lanolin at Walgreen's and it was VERY pricey. It got to the point where I was wasting more gas than it would cost to ship some here so I got the HPA thinking if I can't find anything better, maybe I can dilute it with alcohol and still use it.

[slim1836]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0117UuXiSS4

Slim

[Reverend Recoil]

Mix one part lanolin with four or five parts 99% isopropyl alcohol. Apply to your brass with a spray bottle. The watered down rubbing alcohol sold at local drug stores will not dissolve the lanolin well. The best sources for lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol are Amazon and eBay.

[browntown]

Searching around this site shows 16-1, 12-1, 10-1, and most commonly 5-1

Guys on AR15.com often quote this site http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Sizing

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/286905__ARCHIVED_THREAD____Making_Case_Lube.html&page=1#i2513109

The jist seems to be to use the purest alcohol (99%) or liquid Heet and liquid lanolin from the organic health food store.

5-1 seems pretty common, I just bought a bottle of Dillon case lube which is supposed to be the same thing. Took the guess work out of it.

[VHoward]

I use the 12 to 1 ratio and it works fine. The Heet in the red bottle at the auto parts store is 99% alcohol.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Searching around this site shows 16-1, 12-1, 10-1, and most commonly 5-1

Guys on AR15.com often quote this site http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Sizing

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/286905__ARCHIVED_THREAD____Making_Case_Lube.html&page=1#i2513109

The jist seems to be to use the purest alcohol (99%) or liquid Heet and liquid lanolin from the organic health food store.

5-1 seems pretty common, I just bought a bottle of Dillon case lube which is supposed to be the same thing. Took the guess work out of it.


That would be a reason to choose isopropyl rather than ethyl alcohol, then. With the latter 96% is the normal commercial strength, as it is about the maximum that can be achieved by normal distillation, and greater becomes a lot more expensive. When I was in Kuwait the authorities allowed foreign companies to import it for cleaning computer screens, and indeed to clean all the computer screens in the world. I think it was something to do with all that cleanliness distracting people from chemical hobbies which occasionally caused lethal explosions.

The lanolin needs to be anhydrous, or why would you need anhydrous alcohol? I've used it with castor oil as a bullet swaging lube, but the castor oil is only required because it doesn't diesel at the much greater pressures of swaging. I am sure lanolin and alcohol would work well for case sizing, although plenty of other things will work well too.

[sghart3578]

I too went down this path and my conclusion was that the time, money and energy invested was not worth it. It pains me to admit this also because as a caster and reloader I try to be frugal.

I have settled on RCBS spray on case lube. It seems pricey I admit but I don't load that much rifle any more, just 223. The rest of my rifle stuff gets neck sized only.

A word of caution. You may see the spray on case lube marketed by Cabelas. It is half the price of the RCBS stuff. I had terrible luck with it. I took it back for a refund and they were not receptive at first. But a guy from the gun dept actually came up to the customer service counter and told the young girl there to give me my money back. He said to her "I don't know why we sell that junk." YMMV

[dragon813gt]

I bought liquid lanolin from the local "whole foods" store. Mixed it 5-1 w/ 99% isopropyl alcohol that I bought off of Amazon. It works well but I have not been to keep all the lanolin in solution. Some shaking before use cures this issue.

I made my first batch w/ the strongest concentration you can buy at Walmart. It worked fine. It took a lot more shaking and more time for the alcohol to evaporate. But it did work.

[toallmy]

Randyrat has it . Lanolin

[Bama]

Local drug store will usually order if ask. Geritrex sales as Lanolin USP skin protectant in 1 lb containers, first container lasted over 30 years. From container it is a slave and requires mixing in small container to make final mixing in spray bottle easy. Using a 1 gal baggie for spraying and good mix and then into an open top container to let alcohol evaporate. Really works works well, only take one or two sprays for a full bag of brass.

To make mixing easier, heat mixture with hot water...sure mixes a lot better when nice and warm..do not use any type burner to heat or you face possible banning from house if it is still standing.

[M-Tecs]

Randyrat has it . Lanolin

Plus one on Randyrat

[John Boy]

thoughts, comments? Save yourself the time and effort ...
Bag Balm
https://s.yimg.com/fz/api/res/1.2/ThsAsuiO5nlgdVXl7LOfAw--/YXBwaWQ9c3JjaGRkO2g9OTA7cT05NTt3PTkw/http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OP.WwO7r3G4MDyHqg100C100&pid=Ads&w=90&h=90

[DougGuy]

Save yourself the time and effort ...
Bag Balm
https://s.yimg.com/fz/api/res/1.2/ThsAsuiO5nlgdVXl7LOfAw--/YXBwaWQ9c3JjaGRkO2g9OTA7cT05NTt3PTkw/http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OP.WwO7r3G4MDyHqg100C100&pid=Ads&w=90&h=90

Ok suppose we actually FIND some Bag Balm, (lol) how to mix it and use it/apply it?

[John Boy]

Ok suppose we actually FIND some Bag Balm, (lol) how to mix it and use it/apply it?
Go to friendly drugstore or Amazon - it's already mixed, just a slight wipe of Bag Balm on the case with your index finger... Done

Been discussed on the Forum since 2009 and I have used it since about 2005 ...
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/search.php?searchid=3458760

[fjruple]

Anhydrous lanolin I ordered on line and the 99% alcohol I get from a beauty supplies store. Mix a 1 part lanolin to 10 parts alcohol in a very hot environment. The 95 degree temperature today is great for mixing. DO NOT go near an open flame. Shake in a spray bottle which you can get at Home Depot. I found this stuff is the best to use for large quantities of cases. Dump in my cement mixer and in an one hour or two they are ready to reload.

--fjruple

[dragon813gt]

Go to friendly drugstore or Amazon - it's already mixed, just a slight wipe of Bag Balm on the case with your index finger... Done

Been discussed on the Forum since 2009 and I have used it since about 2005 ...


That is not what this thread is about. It's specifically about making a lanolin/alcohol spray lube.

[SODAPOPMG]

you can also use RCBS case lube 2 mix with 1 quart of 96% alcohol shake well and use, it will not separate

[M-Tecs]

Bag Balm is nothing more than 99.7% Anhydrous lanolin http://www.mws-d.com/images/PDF/7943.pdf Cheaper through Randy

Anhydrous lanolin melts at around hundred degrees. It burns (turns black) very easily. If you do it on the stove a double boiler is best. A hair dyer will work. Once mixed with the alcohol it will stay suspended.

A hot car with the windows up on a hot summer day works well to get everything above 100 degrees. Same for a kettle of 130 degree hot water in the winter.

[labradigger1]

Get lanolin from a health food store.
90%+ iso alcohol
Place a 38 cal was cutter in a pump bottle and shake before using.

Since going this route I will NEVER use anything else!
Same thing as Dillon lube.

[VHoward]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LANOLIN-OIL-USP-SKIN-MOISTURIZING-BY-DR-ADORABLE-ORGANIC-PURE-2oz-UP-TO-7LB-/181206170838?var=&hash=item2a30babcd6 I bought 8 ounces of this.
http://www.goldeagle.com/product/iso-heet-premium-fuel-line-antifreeze-water-remover-injector-cleaner and a bottle of this at the local auto parts store. It is 99.9% iso alcohol.
I used 1 ounce of the lanolin = $1.73
1 bottle of the iso heet = $3.99
which totals $5.72 for 13 ounces of spray lube.
I did it in 70 degree weather, did not use heat at all. Just put both in a spay bottle and shook it up to mix. It has not separated and it works just as good as Dillons spray lube which I have a bottle of. Almost looks the same. What I made is darker yellow. I lay a single layer of cases out on a towel, give them a light spray and allow to dry. I do not turn them or tumble them together after spraying, just allow them to dry. Never have had a problem. And mine are ready to size in about 10 minutes, not 1 or 2 hours.

Dillon spray lube is $8.95 for an 8 ounce bottle

I've got enough lanolin left to make 7 more bottles of spray lube.

You choose. Seems economical and easy to me.

[slughammer]

I'm not sure how you guys are cleaning the lanolin off the cases when done; I've found it to be a sticky mess.

Case Lube
12oz of 91% isopropyl
1 bottle of RCBS case lube
8 marbles

I put this in a sprayer bottle with the marbles and agitate it every time I use it.(though I'm not sure it needs that). I use either quart or gallon ziploc bags. I spray 2 or 3 squirts in the bag and then add the brass, work it around and dump them into a cookie tin for the small batches or onto a cookie tray for the big batches. (The bag is pressed flat and reused until dirty, then replaced with a new one.) The alcohol flashes off quickly. The lube is distributed evenly. My hands stay clean enough to load a round from start to finish. I've loaded well over 5000 rounds and I probably have 3-4 oz left. Clean off by wiping with a rag or large batches I vibratory tumble with fresh corn cob media.

[dragon813gt]

Thirty minutes in the tumbler cleans the lanolin off. I don't use it when making ammo. I only use it during brass prep.

[Tar Heel]

True Cost of Homemade Case Lubricant

Having read on forums about users attempting to blend their own case sizing lubricant either to save money or to improve the lubricant, I must say that perhaps we are overlooking the obvious. The actual cost, per ounce, of the available lubricant versus the cost, per ounce, of homemade lubricant.

Almost to an individual, the referenced and apparently preferred case lube formula sought after is the one produced by Dillon Precision which contains Isopropyl Alcohol and Lanolin. Anyone who has used this lubricant is well aware that it works effectively. Self-formulators seem to gravitate to a 10:1 ratio of Alcohol to Lanolin.

There is a reason that Dillon uses Isopropyl alcohol in their product. The reason they use Isopropyl Alcohol (C3H8O) instead of Methanol (CH3OH) or Ethanol (C2H6O) is that the evaporation rate of Isopropyl Alcohol is significantly slower than the other two types of alcohols. Methanol or ‘wood alcohol’ evaporates “crazy fast” to quote a chemist friend of mine. Ethanol evaporates slightly slower but you may prefer to drink your ethanol instead of spraying it on cases. Isopropyl Alcohol fits the niche precisely with its low volatility and acceptable evaporation rate – allowing case handling, rolling, and effective surface flow of lubricant to coat the case before the carrier (alcohol) evaporates off.

Lanolin used should be of the liquid variety to allow for saturation in the carrier solution (alcohol). Those who don’t read the entire posts here will be doomed to repeat the failures of others who did not read the entire post and used normal and readily available Lanolin in its ‘greasy’ state. Liquid Lanolin, while slightly more expensive, allows for ready mixing and will not form precipitate when in solution.

So having made the decision to reproduce the Dillon formulation using Isopropyl Alcohol and Liquid Lanolin, and using the consensus of the home brewers of a 10:1 formulation (which may not be a Dillon formulation) let’s investigate the cost savings.

The Dillon Case Lube plus shipping works out to be $1.30/ounce. That’s 8 bottles at 8 ounces of product each for a total of 64 ounces of case lube. Shipping to North Carolina would cost me $11.99. Combined with the product equals $83.59 total. So we have $83.59 divided by 64 ounces for $1.30 per ounce - delivered.

I purchased 4 bottles of Liquid Lanolin (16 ounces) from PipingRock.com (http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2FPipingRock.com%2F&h=RAQGICAm7&enc=AZP8Z1qN5Bl0fG7OiPI0LM2tp2IAk5QMUzWLIV7mnmdWxB UzR6wgY7hlzQMLVc92aOg7hM-fATNk1PzboJBThz5d00hgcN0olRuKdr6JOJmozfnTfhgTljLEU uaNHJd3MAv5lqlIY1zkUseHk8tpM8W9cSnlu4R5ITL-qLMT0DVp143lNxRqK2Epy-MfLB_fS18&s=1) for $5.49 each. With free shipping, the total order was $21.96. The cost of the Liquid Lanolin worked out to be $1.37 an ounce.

The 99% Isopropyl Alcohol which I ordered through my local chemist was $29.70 for four 16 ounce bottles. This works out to a total of 64 ounces at $0.64 per ounce.

My total cost for the liquid components of the lubricant (no spray bottle) using 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and Liquid Lanolin (the Dillon Formulation) are $7.77 for 11 ounces of product or $0.70 per ounce.
(10 ounces Alcohol is $6.40, 1 ounce Lanolin is $1.37)

Frankly we can see that the home brew using ideal components costs us $0.70 an ounce whereas the Dillon product costs $1.30 per ounce or almost twice the cost of home brew. We are assuming too that the Dillon product is a 10:1 ratio which it probably isn’t.

Now the larger question looms. Is the 100% savings of a home brew product worth it? I have an 8oz bottle of Dillon Case Lube on the reloading bench I have been using for a few years. I have another in the closet to replace the first bottle when needed. I do not load thousands of rifle cases every year nor are the majority of my handgun calibers run through standard dies. I use carbide Dillon dies on my Dillon 550B progressive which does see a few thousand rounds per year.

I expect the Dillon Case Lube to last a while and just don’t see the need for 28 ounces of lubricant in the next 10 years. I could have spent $20 bucks on a single bottle of lube from Dillon and saved 30 bucks for something more useful on my reloading bench.

Another point to ponder is that by patronizing companies like Dillon and “giving” them the $4.00/bottle profit (if it actually is that much), we will continue to receive the EXCELLENT customer service from them we have grown to expect. The last time I called Dillon to get a part for my 550B press, I almost got into an argument with the guy about letting me pay for the part that I BROKE. He absolutely refused and kept quoting Dillon’s “No ********” warranty policy.

The few extra dollars we spend at Dillon, RCBS, Lyman, Accurate Molds, Lee, and a host of others, allows them to pay Americans to fill American jobs and answer phone calls from a dummy like me with a positively stupid question. It allows companies like Dillon to provide us with “No ********” product warranties to keep us banging out ammo for matches.

Please keep in mind that unless you use gallons of lubricant every year, and if you are like most of us where 16 ounces will last a decade, our American companies need our support and dollars to keep them healthy and
viable. If you are using gallons of case lube every year, you may be able to swing a deal with one of the commercial suppliers to get your lube at a reduced cost.

While researching this piece, I did happen to watch a great video by user GunFun in post #20. His use of the plastic jug with sponges inside of it will save quite a bit of lubricant, either homemade or commercial. That is a GREAT idea and one I will adopt. Even the ‘whippersnappers’ have a good idea every now and again!

[DougGuy]

While researching this piece, I did happen to watch a great video by user GunFun in post #20. His use of the plastic jug with sponges inside of it will save quite a bit of lubricant, either homemade or commercial. That is a GREAT idea and one I will adopt. Even the ‘whippersnappers’ have a good idea every now and again!

Which thread? GunFun's post does not appear in this thread/

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Bag Balm is nothing more than 99.7% Anhydrous lanolin http://www.mws-d.com/images/PDF/7943.pdf Cheaper through Randy
.

Yes, I thought John Boy was within his rights to mention it. Anhydrous lanolin isn't far from being a solid, and a bit gooey for skin care by the delicately nurtured. The trouble with hand care products is that we don't know what else is in them. I dare say some are fine, and it isn't as demanding an application as bullet swaging, but I think pure anhydrous lanolin is a better starting point.

When I was at school lanolin was the big new buzz-word in shampoo and soap commercials, and my geography teacher used to delight in telling the girls that it was extracted from the sewers in Bradford, "capital of the wool world". Personally I still put my faith in STP Oil Treatment, which practically is the old-fashioned case lube. It is horribly adhesive stuff, but I think its effectiveness is worth it, and a large bottle has lasted me about half of forever.

[Tar Heel]

Which thread? GunFun's post does not appear in this thread/

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?235609-Homemade-Case-Lube

[Tar Heel]

Which thread? GunFun's post does not appear in this thread/

Here is the video
https://youtu.be/13iRxKdajAA?list=PLSq6wScgUXRxZd2GkN1PYQ3-UwyuETZIt

[Walter Laich]

enjoyed the video. might have to go find a smaller spray bottle as I'll only be doing 13 oz at a time and don't see need for oversized one--I'm known for being clumsy.

Heet was less than $2 per bottle at wally world.
did order liquid lanolin off ebay

now just waiting on the big brown truck.....

[VHoward]

And for all those saying you don't save enough to make it worth while. Sometimes it's not about saving money, but doing it yourself. And as I pointed out using the full retail price of the heet, it did come out less than the Dillon spray lube.

[needausername]

I too went down this path and my conclusion was that the time, money and energy invested was not worth it. It pains me to admit this also because as a caster and reloader I try to be frugal.


Every time I try to save a buck it ends up costing me 10 and more headaches than I need. I'll swear to myself that next time I won't be so frugal. I spent $4 on a tub of Unique case lube after years of using chapstick simply because I had it in my pocket all the time and I'm starting to think it's being magically filled by elves when I'm not looking. Seems that 4$ will last forever.

[Walter Laich]

I like the tinkering that comes with casting/reloading. Something about having more to do with it than just buying it off the shelf is inviting even if I only save a few cents.

Course I grew up hearing, "Eat you green beans, children in Europe are starving."

[tmc-okc]

Every time I go down this path of concocting my own stuff to save money I either get the formulation wrong and ruining the whole batch ( costing me money ) or I wind up with enough product to last me and 4 buddies the next 26 years. And I am simply out of room for storing all the savings I am getting out of these deals. I already built a 12 x 24 shed to move stuff into to have more room to store more reloading stuff, lead and all my savings.. Now I am beginning to look at these venture a little differently. So instead of saving money on product and building a new shed to store it & other stuff in I am just going to pay the retail price for what I really need realizing I am helping someone else build their shed a dime or two at a time..

Ron

[Walter Laich]

not to speak ill of One Shot but lately it really hasn't been that effective in lubing my cases. Either ones in loading blocks that get sprayed from four directions or in a baggie.

I shake the can and do it what I would call extra long but not doing it for me.

I'm ready to try this both from something new to tinker with and hopefully a better way to lube my .45 Colt cases

[roysha]

Yes, I thought John Boy was within his rights to mention it. Anhydrous lanolin isn't far from being a solid, and a bit gooey for skin care by the delicately nurtured. The trouble with hand care products is that we don't know what else is in them. I dare say some are fine, and it isn't as demanding an application as bullet swaging, but I think pure anhydrous lanolin is a better starting point.

When I was at school lanolin was the big new buzz-word in shampoo and soap commercials, and my geography teacher used to delight in telling the girls that it was extracted from the sewers in Bradford, "capital of the wool world". Personally I still put my faith in STP Oil Treatment, which practically is the old-fashioned case lube. It is horribly adhesive stuff, but I think its effectiveness is worth it, and a large bottle has lasted me about half of forever.

Exactly what he said.

[DougGuy]

I'm ready to try this both from something new to tinker with and hopefully a better way to lube my .45 Colt cases

Lee carbide FL sizing die needs no lube, I have never lubed straight wall pistol cases when using these dies in 30+yrs of reloading. Only rifle cases get lubed here, and after firing they get collet neck sized and don't need lube for that either.

[Walter Laich]

Lee carbide FL sizing die needs no lube, I have never lubed straight wall pistol cases when using these dies in 30+yrs of reloading. Only rifle cases get lubed here, and after firing they get collet neck sized and don't need lube for that either.

my hat is off to you as you're a stronger guy than I. I like the fact that lube makes it easier to size the brass.

[Wayne Smith]

Ok suppose we actually FIND some Bag Balm, (lol) how to mix it and use it/apply it?

I got mine from the Vermont Country Store - online and catalog. I don't mind supporting another family business, either.

[farmersamm]

Speaking to the matter of straight walled pistol cases only..........(I don't reload for rifles)

Carbide dies have eliminated the need to lube cases.

Best "lube" for pistol cases is the soot, and bullet lube, that's leaked back around the case after they've been fired. Again, I'm speaking of carbide dies.

Cleaning cases before sizing removes any beneficial soot. Never clean my cases, waste of time. Removing the excess lube squeezed out during the seating process is enough to clean the cases before using the rounds. I pan lube, so there's always some excess lube floating around on the bullets, which has to be removed prior to putting them up in my baggies (YES I USE BAGGIES:razz:....cheap, easy, and can fit more rounds in an ammo can)

BAGGIES ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[rondog]

I use the lanolin/Heet homemade stuff, works excellently. Don't remember the ratio, still using the first batch. My lanolin came off eBay, it's a thick paste in a tub, was quite cheap as I recall.

The spray bottle quickly clogged, now I just dump all the rifle brass in a large plastic tub, pour a little of the lube in my hands and rub it in, then just paw all the cases - stirring and mixing them around. Works great.

The Heet evaporates quickly and after sizing them all, I just run 'em in the tumbler with fine corncob for a bit. Then they're ready for trimming and all the rest of the fun stuff.

You could also use cheap cotton gloves, wet them with the lube and go to town on the brass. But bare hands work quite well. Leaves my hands baby-butt soft too!

[Walter Laich]

now if I could just use my butt to lube my wife couldn't tell me from the baby--butt-wise at least

[mdi]

For me and 99% of the time home made products are not necessarily for saving money. If I want case lube I can order on line and wait a week to 12 days or stop by the box store and pick up some boot dressing in the shoe polish dept. If I want bullet lube for my low velocity .38 wadcutters, I can dig out a spray can of spray on dry lube (graphite) or stop by ACE Hardware. If I want items for bullet lube for my rifles, I can stop by the grocery store and find paraffin, vegetable oils, lanolin in the pharmacy. Beeswax can be found at the twice weekly farmer's market, or candles at the local gift shop. When I was shooting black powder revolvers, instead of ordering wads on line and waiting, I soaked cardboard in beeswax and cut out wads with a "hole punch". Money does not dictate my hobby life!

Besides, I much prefer stuff I made, that works just as well as dedicated "reloading supplies", and I use them with pride...

[Walter Laich]

Well, at long last I got to a point that I could reload

the sprayer I found at CVS was the right size, no need to have a 26 oz one when only making up 13 oz.

Was reloading 100 .44 Mag for neighbor. gave it 2 good spurts and mixed them up with my hands. Didn't take long for alcohol to evaporate as it's a might warm here these days.

It worked well and resizing was much better--less effort; may try 3 squirts next time as I wanted to start out light and add as needed.

Shook the complete cartridges in a towel or 5-10 sec and removed any lanolin remaining.

I so like it when a plan comes together

[slim1836]

That's what I have used for the last couple years, works very good.

Slim

[scdw43]

100% pure liquid lanolin

https://www.pureformulas.com/liquid-lanolin-100-pure-4-oz-by-now.html

[John Boy]

thoughts, comments?
Bag Balm - light finger wipe is all that is needed ...
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/1a0c5f3d-1de6-458d-9580-1a0842812370_1.3300b75a6e2ff5556619089bfc3d0322.jp eg?odnHeight=180&odnWidth=180&odnBg=ffffff

[gwpercle]

I have come to like the 2 oz. tube of Lee case lube mixed with 16 ozs of isopropyl or denatured alcohol (I've used both) and applied with a spray bottle. The stuff works well , not greasy , easy to clean off and Lee case lube is not hard find .
Gary

[MUSTANG]

I've been using my "Home Made" spray lube for almost 5 years now. Mixed a batch 5 years ago and it has literally resized about 10,000 rifle cases (.223, .308, 30-06, 350 Rem Mag, & 45-70) and close to 8,000 swaged .223 bullets from 22LR cases. Never a problem in sizing cases or swaging bullet. I lay out the brass or "Swage Jackets/Bullets on an RCBS lube pad and hit them with a one or two shot mist (thats all). Let sit a minute or so, then roll them back and forth slightly on the RCBS lube pad. Next time, just lay out the cases (Jackets) on the lube pad an roll; should be plenty of lube without re-spraying (lots of residual lube on the pad).

My ratio has been 4 oz liquid lanolin to 16 oz alcohol. No problems, except when air temp drops to ~ 55 degrees or less; the lanolin settles to the bottom of the spray jar in cold weather and must be warmed and shaken to redistribute.

A few years ago I bought some Lanolin from Randy Rat. In another few months I will have to open that package and make a new batch of lube. The solid Lanolin from Randy rat will have to be dissolved, I'll comment on my experience when that occurs. Below the line in this post are the materials for my original batch. Sources are Amazon. I actually bought the Alcohol I used at Walmarts.



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________

Swan 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, 16 Ounces.

https://www.amazon.com/Swan-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99-Pint/dp/B001B5JT8C/ref=pd_bxgy_121_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NPVTA6095KAC37076DMX

New Foods Liquid Lanolin Pure, 4 Ounce.

https://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Liquid-Lanolin-Ounce/dp/B00028MLKC/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1472871486&sr=8-5&keywords=lanolin (https://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Liquid-Lanolin-Ounce/dp/B00028MLKC/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1472871486&sr=8-5&keywords=lanolin)










(https://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Liquid-Lanolin-Ounce/dp/B00028MLKC/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1472871486&sr=8-5&keywords=lanolin)

[Walter Laich]

My 99% alcohol is Heet that you get at an auto parts store

[wonderwolf]

I forget what it cost me for the 1lb of lanolin I got and the stupid big thing of alcohol but it was CHEAP......dads a pharmacist and just special ordered it easy. I use it for swage lube and it can be used as sizeing die wax but I like the spray stuff for now I have...at least until it runs out. There is a discussion in the swage forum on this iirc.

I think its a lot cheaper, esp when you look at what 1oz of sizing die wax could run you these days.

[Moonie]

I seem to remember a member selling anhydrous lanolin at one point.

[gtgeorge]

The lanolin I bought from RandyRat will not stay dissolved in denatured alcohol for me. Only way I got it to dissolve was to put it in the sun to liguify before adding alcohol and then it separates at room temps within 24 hours. I am not sure why others have had success. Perhaps the denatured alcohol?

[Walter Laich]

^ that was one of the reasons I went with liquid lanolin. Wasn't sure the semi-solid stuff would stay dissolved.

[swamp]

I tried to make it with the solid lanolin and has the same problem. It seperates out .

Going to try liquid nest.
swamp

[Wayne Smith]

Bag Balm user here. I doubt I'll use up the can before I quit reloading when I can't shoot any more.

[slim1836]

The liquid lanolin will separate also, just shake it up in the bottle before using.

Slim

[fiberoptik]

I got mine from the Vermont Country Store - online and catalog. I don't mind supporting another family business, either.

Tractor Supply Company(?) Store-- the place farmers go...



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[6bg6ga]

Some here are trying to make this too difficult. Go to walmart do not pass go and do not collect $200 but rather stop into the auto section and pick up the "red" bottle of heat. Get on the computer and order any liquid lanolin that is available from any ebay seller with lanolin in their products for sale. Mixing ..one cheap spray bottle put in one ounce of lanolin to 12 oz of Heat. I believe the heat is 12 oz. Use the heat to clean out your 4 oz measuring cup of any excess lanolin as you put the heat into your spray bottle. Shake well and shake anytime your going to use it for rifle cases. There is NO need to use it on pistol brass when using CARBIDE FL sizing dies. Once your rifle brass is sized put the brass into the tumbler and tumble a while until the brass is free of the lanolin. This lanolin mix is cheaper than ONE SHOT or other lube. Note....... when sizing 50 cal increase the ratio of lanolin to heat as it will aid in smoother action. ALSO>>>> the ratio of lanolin to heat CAN be adjusted to whatever suites your needs.

[dragon813gt]

Using it on pistol brass does smooth out the operation of a progressive. It's not necessary when using carbide dies. But it does help. I only use it on new Starline brass and it all galling which is a common problem w/ their virgin brass.

[Walter Laich]

...There is NO need to use it on pistol brass when using CARBIDE FL sizing dies...

Even Dillon recommends a bit of lube with the carbide dies to lessen the force needed.
I reload for fun and any thing that will make it more enjoyable, within reason, I embrace.

[ici]

I bought anhydrous Lanolin on line for under $10 for a pound (delivered) - that's enough for about 500 million rounds.
Lanolin does not dissolve in 91% isopropyl alcohol (as available at any drugstore), but dissolves easily in the cheap and widely available "orange solvent".
The solution of Lanolin in orange solvent can then mixed with 91% isopropyl alcohol without the Lanolin separating from the solution.
The ratios I used is 1:10 lanolin to orange solvent and 1:10 lanolin solution to isopropyl alcohol.
Make sure the solvents fully evaporate before sizing - the solvents kill Lanolin's lubricity and cases may get stuck in the die.

[BrassMagnet]

I bought anhydrous Lanolin on line for under $10 for a pound (delivered) - that's enough for about 500 million rounds.
Lanolin does not dissolve in 91% isopropyl alcohol (as available at any drugstore), but dissolves easily in the cheap and widely available "orange solvent".
The solution of Lanolin in orange solvent can then mixed with 91% isopropyl alcohol without the Lanolin separating from the solution.
The ratios I used is 1:10 lanolin to orange solvent and 1:10 lanolin solution to isopropyl alcohol.
Make sure the solvents fully evaporate before sizing - the solvents kill Lanolin's lubricity and cases may get stuck in the die.

Paint and hardware stores sell 99+% alcohol.

[Honestly Evil]

I tend to use the Iso Alch and fill a squirt bottle. I then use one whole tube of Lee lube. So far after a couple 100k cases for 45 i have had zero issues for running the brass through my Dillon 1050s after using the Case Pro for roll sizing first.

Does anyone have better success with something cheaper for lube?

[sureYnot]

I use a 12oz bottle of iso heat with one oz liquid lanolin.
I tend to use the Iso Alch and fill a squirt bottle. I then use one whole tube of Lee lube. So far after a couple 100k cases for 45 i have had zero issues for running the brass through my Dillon 1050s after using the Case Pro for roll sizing first.

Does anyone have better success with something cheaper for lube?

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[Crash_Corrigan]

now if I could just use my butt to lube my wife couldn't tell me from the baby--butt-wise at least

That partial phrase "from my...…..wife" just rings somewhat out of kilter to my ears. All I know is that if a certain supremely criticized ex business tycoon said the above it would bandied about the world for weeks as a denigrating statement about women and he would be vilified again and again on the late night TV shows.

As for myself I bought a half dozen cans of One Shot over the past few years. They have a way of escaping from my view and I hafta buy another can....then I find the first can. I use the baggie method and dump a buncha deprimed and cleaned cases into the bag etc.

Although most of my dies are carbide the lubrication makes the sizing and expanding of the case mouth (Dillon powder dies seem to hang up on the up stroke) a lot easier. Long ago I learned to gently work over the business end of those Dillon expansion parts of their powder dies with a crocus cloth and some French Polish goop. When the reloading process is completed and the loaded cartridges are in the blue bin I dump them out onto a Turkish towel and spread them out with another and clean off the excess lube.

This is the final exam for these students, now they are ready to be stored in boxes and bags and take their rightful place as the backbone of our wonderful sport. At this point I check them out and from time to find I find a student lacking and it's back to basic for this little guy for retraining. Powder leaking from a priming hole missing a primer is a major cause for failure and since I stopped using a Lee Progressive press in '97 and went down the road of blue kool aid it is a thankfully infrequent situation. Also my students suffered from upside down primers with Lee presses and also with a blue press until I modified my Dillon 550 with a roller bearing on the priming shuttle. It is so frustrating to have done all the steps correctly and produce a high quality and consistent performing cartridge only to find that the primerface has gone to the dark side and you are looking a the area of the primer which is never displayed naked to the public normally. It can destroy reputations and rapidly dimish the offensive capabilities of the unknowing user to his peril unless he/she is using a revolver where just another stroke of the trigger brings a new graduate student into the fray. Using one of those hammerless polymer wonder semi-autos would require a rack sweep and dump and hope for more time routine that is sadly very seldom taught and somewhat difficult to perform under stress. Another triumph for the Old School of old cops and their trusty and somewhat underpowered .38 Special Smith and Colt revolters that got the job done from 1900 to about 1983 or so when a certain Austrian firearm hit our shores and took over the scene in the law enforcement genre.

Packing a decent revolter, like a Smith or a Ruger double action would inspire more confidence than having to depend on the quality of the ammo in a Browning Hi Power or a Sig Sauer SP2022 for those life or death social situations into which we could be thrust without warning. This is another reason why I always have a powder checker die to insure the proper level of propellant when assembling my own ammo. Although packing a less far less capacity the basic revolter is less troublesome and more dependable during the crunch of armed combat than the high tech and more complicated semi.

That is just my two cents based on 5 situations over 23 years of using both platforms in NYC and New Mexico during my LEO career. Dependability and boolit placement triumphs over capacity and speed of reloading as I only once had to fire more than 6 rounds at an opponent/opponents from '64 to '91.

Take your own path.

[Hootmix]

I'v been using " Murphy's Oil Soap " the last few years ,, slosh it around in the bottle ( plastic ) stick your finger in the neck wipe on case's ,,yup ! to much will cause dents ,, use it to reform 45-70's down to 40-60's , after ," after " I trim to size and anneal the neck's , wipe on the MPoS reform ,, slick as snot .Give it a try if it don't suit y'a give to the little wife for the house cleaning .

coffee's ready ,, Hootmix .

[Hossfly]

I ordered liquid lanolin on line and mix 2 oz per 12 oz 91% alc from Wally World. Been on same squirt bottle for about 2 years, you have to let it flash off at least 5-10 minutes or they will stick and there is no joy then.

[Bama]

The red bottle of "Heat" sold at auto parts stores is 99% isopropyl alcohol, it is what I use--works fine with lanolin.

[slim1836]

The red bottle of "Heat" sold at auto parts stores is 99% isopropyl alcohol, it is what I use--works fine with lanolin.

That's what I use and have no complaints.

Slim

[toallmy]

I use the red bottle of HEAT with lanolin in a squirt bottle , but find I must set the plastic bottle in warm water before using it to keep the lanolin mixed , and the pump working .

[slim1836]

I use the red bottle of HEAT with lanolin in a squirt bottle , but find I must set the plastic bottle in warm water before using it to keep the lanolin mixed , and the pump working .

I have never had that issue. Refer to my post #3 and follow the link. If you mixed your Heat and lanolin per the video,, all you have to do is shake the bottle to mix it up prior to using. Sounds like you may have used too much lanolin or did not use 99% alcohol.

Slim

[toallmy]

I am using a solid lanolin not a liquid that I purchased here from a nice member to use in home made boolit lube , case lube , and spray case lube so I can't complain about it - there is a lot in a pound of lanolin .

[GregLaROCHE]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0117UuXiSS4

Slim

This video is good as far as the lube is concerned. I don’t like the tumble method, because you don’t get that much lube inside the case to lube the neck. I prefer to spray the cases standing up so lube gets inside the necks. Also I deprime my brass before I clean it and size it after. Just my way of doing it.

[Chainsaw.]

Is it not 2018?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WGSQ188/ref=mp_s_a_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1542255627&sr=8-5&keywords=lanolin+oil&dpPl=1&dpID=41suxjBLb8L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Swan-M314-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99/dp/B00NMPLSZ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1542255687&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=alcohol&dpPl=1&dpID=31l9vv0QIHL&ref=plSrch

Mix 10-1. Put in spray bottle. Dont drive all over town. Live happy.