Belding & Mull measure lubrication

[jschluter]

My B&M powder measure tends to gall despite polishing the aluminum shuttle & cast iron body. I've used dry moly lube and assorted hydrocarbon lubes to no avail. Searched the threads for successful suggestions, but found nothing. Am I the only B&M user with this problem or has this problem been solved long ago and I'm just unaware of it? It's a real problem since I usually have this problem somewhere in every reloading sitting and disassembly, despite being easy, certainly breaks the concentration. HELP!

[Hamish]

I use powdered graphite in all my powder drops. I've got a B&M but have not used it much yet so can't specifically say it will cure the problem.

[Artful]

I found a liquid that carries the graphite then evaporates and deposits it
and just painted the drum with it.

Think I got it a the local ACE hardware.

[Mal Paso]

I would use graphite too. Most smokeless powder is coated with graphite. It lubricates and dissipates static electricity.

[country gent]

I have little problems with smokeless powders in mine but Black powder does get "stiff" thru use. I polished my slide and the housing both front and the back surface. also dont forget the little front plate that sets and holds it in place. Check this not only for roughness but also burrs along the edges. I only poplished mine to ca consistant surface with 320 grit on a flat surface Some times the rougher surface moves build ups and crud rather thn allowing it to stick. My one Belding and Mull has been converted to use powder bottles for the hopper now. The original brass hopper had gotten dinged up over time before I aquired it. I do occasionally clean and rub in some moly to help lube them.

[JSH]

I also use graphite on my B&M's. Never had any problems of either hanging up.

[jschluter]

Just took mine apart and removed the spring. I loaded a bunch of 38 Special plinking loads with Bullseye using nothing more than a regular cadence with my hand to open and close the hopper. Worked great. Loads varied less than 0.01 grain on the beam scale. Looks like the the load to overcome my spring may have been producing local loads that wiped the graphite lube and produced the galling. Also prevents the twisting of the measure on the mount. Now I need to find a light spring that will just close the hopper. Thanks for the responses.

[country gent]

I dont use the springs on mine simply open and close them by hand. I have not used the springs in a long time, my first measure ( purchased around 1980 used) didnt have it there and I didnt know ny better LOL. They are great measures and work very good across a large range of powders and charge weights. Alot of hardware stores have spring assortments you may find what you need there. Measure id od wire dia ( this determines the weight of the spring) and length. Try to find one with half the wire dia of the original and try that, but if its working so well with out the spring why fix what isnt broke.

[ascast]

graphite will solve your problem, hardware store may have some for door hinges or art supply stores may have it in quart jars.
NEI and company used to offer a mold release compound that was graphite in alcohol. It worked great for this application

[jschluter]

Just finished 430 38 Special using only a dry moly or graphite lube and no spring. Worked great. Thanks for the help.

[Artful]

NEI and company used to offer a mold release compound that was graphite in alcohol. It worked great for this application

That's IT - that's were I got my graphite stuff, from Walt!

[Hardcast416taylor]

As I recall there is/was a graphite solution that needs shaking to agitate the solution before using it. Dri-Slide is the name I believe.Robert

[NoZombies]

As I recall there is/was a graphite solution that needs shaking to agitate the solution before using it. Dri-Slide is the name I believe.Robert

Dri-Slide is a molybdenum disulfide lube using an evaporating carrier.

[Bama]

Had same problem (S) with mine but finally figured out all that was going on and will list by order I run into. The linkage connecting the powder chamber to operating arm worked loose and tried to bind on bottom, I over tightened and actually made problem worse and powder chamber started to wear at bottom front slide plate. After that the the spring spacers were out of proper alignment and you could feel the individual spring coils as they went into the main housing making for sticky uneven operation. Finally had enough and took apart and did a complete rework. To help the spring feel issue, I chamfered the spring inlet opening of the cast iron housing. When resetting the spring holders (end strips with the two screws) set each when powder chamber is in position closest to the end being adjusted. This may take two to three times because when one end is adjusted it effects the opposite end setting.I used a 800 grit diamond strip to slightly break the edges on the cast iron housing on both ends. Over time and use ( mine 20+ years) small burrs and sharp edges develop. Also remove any burrs from the aluminum powder chamber--just burrs, no file or coarse grit. Also check the metal front plate and slightly round the inside edge. After these items mine runs as smooth as silk. These are great measures, especially with the micrometer tubes. In 70's and early 80's they were the only type I ever saw at bench rest matches.