J word bullets?

[Art in Colorado]

From what I have read, Elmer Kieth and such, J word bullets will wear more then cast on the barrel. If that is correct will the jacketed help with the restriction where the threaded barrel meets the frame? When I run a tight patch down the barrel of my Ruger 4 5/8 inch 44 Special I do not feel any restriction but I am not sure if this is the correct way of determing this. So I have taken the shotgun approach and have been using jacketed 240 gr under 7.5 Grains of Unique. If this is helpfull how many rounds should I use? Lot of knowledge here so I hope to find out the answer.RegardsArt

[ejcrist]

I'm certainly no expert, but if I had to guess I'd say it would take an awful lot to remove the restriction. If you're thinking about going that route have you thought about fire lapping? I've never done it but it's doing the same thing but using a fine grit to speed the process. I've read it works wonders and I know a lot of people that swear by it. Just a thought.

[Groo]

Groo here
There are companies that make "polish" that when applied to a bullet will reduce/remove metal.
This has been used to treat the choke condition. " Fire Lapping"http://www.neconos.com/category/PRESSUREFIRELAPPING-20

[phonejack]

The last two 44 cal Rugers I bought had thread choke. About 40 rnds of jacketed lapped that out. And, I wasn't using hot loads.

[DougGuy]

If you can't feel it with a tightly patched jag, there is NO restriction. The jag will get noticeably harder to push with just a few tenths of a thousandth constriction. With only .001" of constriction, the jag will stop and need considerable force to shove it the rest of the way through the bore.

[C. Latch]

If your Ruger is stainless, I am not exaggerating at all when I say you can rebarrel it cheaper than you can buy the jacketed bullets you'd have to shoot to remove the tight spot in the barrel.

[44man]

Take near forever to wear a barrel with any bullet/boolit. Stainless is a tough critter too.
Most barrel damage is from poor cleaning rods or flame cutting, not expected in a revolver.
My SBH has exceeded 81,000 rounds and about half were "J" words, still slugs at .430" like when I bought it. All were heavy loads and boolits to 330 gr. It has not lost any accuracy.
Always use a one piece steel rod, jag and muzzle protector. Rifles need a chamber protector, toss aluminum and jointed rods but one piece brass is OK.

[Lloyd Smale]

ive got a pretty knowledgeable buddy who will shoot a 100 rounds of jacketed through every gun he buys. I don't do it myself. If a gun needs lapping then I lap it. For the most part your not going to wear a barrel out no matter what bullet you shoot. Its far more likely if anything your going to have forcing cones wore out way before a barrel would be. Stay away from hot loads and ball powders and you will be fine for many years shooting jacketed.

[44man]

Barrels are made many ways, cut, broached, hammer forged or some imps with hammers and chisels. Best are hand lapped before you get them. "J" words can remove tiny burrs and smooth some. Ridges can be smoothed. But so will cast work.
I knew some of the best ML makers ever. A patched RB could wear a barrel too smooth and Bill
Large told me to etch the bore if accuracy went away. Old timers filled the bore with urine but vinegar works. So does Scotch Brite.
Do you REALLY want a high polished bore for cast? Do you want some BITE or a water slide full of soap?
I have many BFR revolvers and Rugers. Seems the very first shots grouped tighter then after a few thousand. Do you want a slippery lube or BITE?
What does years of paper patching do? PC might ruin things but I can't go there.
I really think your mirror tube is not best.