1953 m-94 30-30

[awaveritt]

Hey folks, I'm pretty stoked about my first '94. Picked it up last weekend. Saw it on a used rack at Cabela's when I really wasn't looking. Thing is, this one was made the same year I was! 1953, or there abouts. Will be shootin' it later this week, but first I wanted to ask a question. Is there any worries about firing this gun while the mainspring strain screw is missing. The rifle seems to function perfectly, and I even chambered an empty primed case, which detonated normally when the trigger was pulled. BTW, the trigger is nice and crisp and does not seem to be out of adjustment, nor is it affected by the absence of the strain screw (see pic). I have ordered a replacement screw from Numrich, but it probably won't arrive before the end of the week. So, would you guys see any problem with firing this gun as is? Everything about this gun seems spot on mechanically, with this one exception.

[Tatume]

Hi A.W.,

Very nice find. Personally, I'd wait a week and install the screw.

Take care, Tom

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Even leaving aside the post-1964 improvements (if you're a production accountant) and crossbolt safety, these strike me as a far nicer rifle than they are making nowadays. I'd probably hold my patience until the hammer is no longer falling with a dull clunk, but I don't believe the absence of the strain screw is in any way dangerous, or liable to cause damage. It is inertia, not spring tension, that stops the primer rupturing. Usually pressure occurs before the hammer is all the way into the primer.

[OverMax]

I don't see why you can't shoot it. Its just the spring tension'er screw that missing. Thats reason why you have such a good trigger pull i.e. no additional tension placed on the hammer sear itself. You do need too find another replacement someday. Especially if witnessing misfires or poorly struck primers.

[awaveritt]

Thanks guys. That's kind of what I thought, but just wanted some fresh eyes on the subject to make sure I don't endanger myself or the gun. Meanwhile, I've loaded up some 150 gr j-words over 27 grains of H-4895 for a nominal velocity of 1650-1700 fps. to try first.

My casting experience is limited to handgun calibers but I'm thinking of getting somebody's version of 311041. Do the Lee sizing dies do a decent job of crimping gas checks? For relevant powders, I have on hand the aforementioned H4895, as well as Benchmark, H335, 2400, unique, green dot and Power Pistol. Enjoyed reading about the work Larry Gibson has done regarding the LVR powder, and may pick up some of that, as well.

Any recomendations regarding loads and molds are greatly appreciated. It's been over 20 years ago that I hand loaded 30-30 in a Marlin 336. Have enjoyed digging up my old notes and assorted 30-30 components. Happy to be back in the 30-30 game.

[Scharfschuetze]

Lucky you to stumble upon such a nice creation out of New Haven. My carbine dates to 1956.

You won't go wrong with the 311041 design boolit. 4895 is a good choice of powder too, although I kind of like 3031 in mine.

Yes, the Lyman or RCBS sizing dies for cast boolits do a fine job of seating the gas checks. I had a mould once where the shank was to large and I had to seat the gas checks in an arbor press first to ensure that they were square to the bore. My current Lyman mould is perfect though in regards to diameter of the shank.

[TXGunNut]

One of my prettiest 94's is a 32WS built in 1954, IIRC. Wood looks a lot like yours, very nice. I know I won't look that good at 63, lol.

[rintinglen]

171608Mine also dates to 1953, as do I. It is very accurate with an NOE 312-440.

[Griff]

I happen to like RE7 under a 150 grain GCFP from a SAECO #316 mold. 27 grains of RE7 gives me an ave. 2190fps with a POI equal to factory Federal or Remington ammo in equal bullet weight. I've found it to be a great load in Trappers, carbines and rifles.