Painting a Savage Axis Stock ?

[brstevns]

Has anyone tried painting one of those Savage Axis Stocks. How did it work out and hold up. What brand of paint?
Asking for a relative.

[pietro]

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I would think that once the very scruff-resistant hydrographic camo coating was removed, it could then be painted with whatever - but IDK that the paint would stand up to wear/tear as well as the factory coating does.

Ditto, regarding painting the plain black synthetic stocks.

OTOH, I've had plain/black synthetic stocks hydrographic coated (by Bell & Carlson) that withstood normal hunting wear/tear like they were armor plated.


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[FergusonTO35]

I painted the black synthetic stock on my Weatherby Vanguard OD green using Krylon fusion and it has held up just fine for a couple of years now. I prepped the stock as well as I could with sandpaper and isopropyl alcohol. Gave it four light coats total, waiting 48-72 hours between. From what I can tell the finish is at least as durable as the better factory finishes applied to wood stocks.

[brstevns]

He has the black Axis Stock.

[country gent]

Prep is alot of wether a paint job lasts. And prep is somewhat depandant on materials. If there is checkering in the stock mask it off for first few coats of primer and then for paint or if fills in and becomes "fuzzy" looking. I would use a good primer and depending on finish desired lauquer based paint. as it can be put on in this coats and light scratches can be rubbed out with rubbing compound. Clear coat will help perserve the color also.

[Mk42gunner]

I've painted a few stocks, from a Savage 110 plastic to laminated wood to a Remington 870. I used a variety of paint ranging from Gov't drab spray paint to Walmart 97 cent stuff to Krylon and Rustoleum. They all worked, some took more effort for the prep.

For a lasting finish, a good paint job will take more than a few minutes to apply, but it isn't hard to do.

Clean all oil, silicone coating or wax off. Scuff sand. Tape off the bedding area and whatever you don't want painted. Prime with two coats. Paint, either solid or camo.

And here is the hard part, let it dry thoroughly and fully harden before handling.

Robert

[runfiverun]

that scuff sanding is the most important part.
it gives the primer someplace to go and something to hang on to.
the second primer coat is the filler coat for the first and smooth's the surface don't forget a good tack cloth wipe down between primer coats, and after the second one before paint.
you'll get a lot of dust off that would otherwise be trapped.
don't touch it.
use light coats and build them up.
don't worry if the first one is too thin or has some lighter spots where you think you missed.
leave it alone and let it dry then wipe with a dry cloth and apply the second coat.
if your seeing color applied your probably using too much paint or painting too close.
do the third coat same as the first and second coats this time you should see the paint lay down on the surface.
let it dry for 2-3 days before even thinking about an over coat of clear.

[merlin101]

Don't use a lacquer product! Lacquer is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture, that's not a problem for a composite stock but it is a problem for the metal in touches.
Any flat paint (like OD green) will discolor and get shiney when oil gets on it, that can be avoided with a coat or two of matte (semi-gloss) clear.

[1_Ogre]

Have you investigated Cerakote? It's good, durable, non reactive and lasts a long time

[brstevns]

Have you investigated Cerakote? It's good, durable, non reactive and lasts a long timeNo I have not, well look into it.

[jcren]

The Krylon fusion is good stuff. If they don't have the color you want, check your auto stores in the paint supplies for an adhesion promoter, Bulldog is a brand name I have used on 4-wheeler plastics.

[runfiverun]

cera-kote needs heat to cure.
300-f for a normal dry and normal time but it has instructions for doing it at 200-f.

[brstevns]

Well, my relative is looking for a color suggestion. Right now he is looking at a metallic blue.

[garym1a2]

Be careful with Blue, I painted my CX4 storm blue and it ended up looking like a dummy gun. I had to paint over it. I did several ARs with rustoelum camo paint and they look great. AR's look even better with wear marks on the paint. Krylon fusion works good on guns with a lot of plastic like the CX4 was.

Well, my relative is looking for a color suggestion. Right now he is looking at a metallic blue.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

If a boyds "drop-in" stock is out of the question for this Axis, I'd strongly recommend you re-enforce the fore end of that original flimsy factory stock, before you waste any time trying to pretty it up. That's my 2¢.

longshot has a nice short video on this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjkN0pU8dh0

[lead-1]

Several years ago I painted some AR15 furniture and didn't know what to go with so I decide on paint for plastic. I went with spray paint from Testors, yeah the model car paint.
I cleaned the stocks real good and when they were completely dry I sprayed them with several thin coats, I'm guessing that's been eight years back and it's still sticking but rubbed thru in a couple spots.

[Sweetpea]

Seconds on using bulldog, here we can get it at car quest, but I'm sure more places carry it.

[brstevns]

Think he is going to use Rust-Oleum in some sort of metallic blue. Once he is done I will try to post a picture.

[country gent]

wipe the stock down good with solvent (On the plastic stocks even a soap and water cleaning works okay nut drying time is longer). I also tend to not use fast cure spray paints a longer cure time seems to allow for the coat to "level" out better. after te first couple thin coats I like to very lightly sand with very fine sand paper 600-800 grit to help smooth the finish and even it up a little. After the color is there and fully cured I may rub it out with an automotive rubbing compound before the finish coat is applied. Then after a few days to a week of curing an inspection in bright sunlight to look for any issues ( eyes, orange peel, light runs, uneven color or other issues). If all is good then a few more days curing and clear coat if desired

[Texas by God]

I like Valspar. Also for the metal high temp header paint from the auto supply works great. All but one of my ARs are painted as well as my tractor and mule guns. No rust! I just did two shotguns, a Sav 110 and a Ballester Molina with the aerosol Duracoat. For $40 a can I sure hope it holds up!Best,Thomas.